anyone else have lower honeycomb problems? [Merged 10-6]

[wishIhadaturbo]

I can't be the first person that has done this. I busted out both honeycombs in my MAF. Does anybody sell replacements ? Or have an idea about what I should do. The car is idleing very rough now and misses whenever I am not accelerating.

Will

 

[Mike1992]

thanks andy, I know my chip is setup for an unhacked 2g maf and I would really like to keep it stock and tune in other forms. I feel as though finding another honeycomb is gonna be a bi***!

 

[andymoraitis]

Mike,

My advice would be to try it and see how it reacts. If the car doesn't have driveaility issues, you can always have Jeff correct for a hacked MAF with one honeycomb removed. You really won't know until you give it a shot.

Also, used MAF's are easy to find and won't cost much at all. Hit the Classifieds and see what you come up with. Try going through these and see what you can get for a decent price.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classified...erpage=12&sort=1&stype=&limit=&cat=7&ppuser=0

Let me know how it drives,

Andy

 

[Mike1992]

It idles rough, my guess is its my web 452/228 cams. It doesnt die, its just just lopey and sparatic. When i hit the gas I get a hesitation from a stop, but these are issues that would be easier to fix if the car was more stock then modded.

 

[andymoraitis]

Yeah, those Webs sound like a Wolverine 1190 in a 302. If your idle's pretty low, that will cause some extra roughness. I have Comp 200's and at 600 RPM it sounds like a cheese grater. It's much smoother at around 900-950. Try playing with the idle a bit and see what that gets you.

 

[my98GST]

I have heard a lot of people talking about this. Some say do it! and other have said no! What exactly does removing the honey comb do? What is the difference between doing it on a 1g and a 2g MAS? Also what is the silencer and stuff that people have told me to remove? Will there be any drawbacks to me doing this?

 

[pnishr]

Removing the outer honey-combs allows more air to pass through the MAS. unfortunately, some people, including myself, have had issues with airflow readings after doing this. You may find that you bog-out a lot after doing this mod, unless (or even if) you have something to tune out the airflow with. Try removing them just one at a time. If you don't have issues, great. Is it worthwhile?; probably not for you at this point. You might also consider NOT doing the Bypass tube modification. I also had several issues with this, as it disrupts the proper airflow dynamics. Some have done it with no problems at all. Just make sure you do it in a way that is reversable (use a different piece of PVC to put in there, don't cut your stock piece)

 

[olmytsi]

I wouldn't hack a 2g mas as it flows enough air as is.

 

[nanokpsi]

Removing the outer honey-combs allows more air to pass through the MAS. unfortunately, some people, including myself, have had issues with airflow readings after doing this.

, you think!

The screens are there to strighten out airflow and help with measuring. By removing them you garuntee yourself airflow issues as you effectuvely decrease the amount of air seen by the mas by aroung 13% on the higher airflow ranges. Can you make the car driveable with adjustments with a SAFC? Sure, but for what purpose. There is no need to do it unless you are overflowing the stock mas (which a 20g or 50 trim cannot do on a 2g).

 

[4g63telantra]

Ill be running a GM MAFT set up. The GM MAF I have has the honey combs on it. Also I have a extra GM maf that does not work but also does not have the honey comb.

Its it safe to remove the plate with the combs and swap it to the one with out?

 

[Defiant]

Leave them in to start with. The sensor wants that airflow as smooth as possible.

 

[CarbonGSX]

Ill be running a GM MAFT set up. The GM MAF I have has the honey combs on it. Also I have a extra GM maf that does not work but also does not have the honey comb.

Its it safe to remove the plate with the combs and swap it to the one with out?

I've noticed on my MAF that the honeycomb is somewhat damaged (slightly bent in a few places).

^^Is it okay to run w/o the honeycomb??

 

[denniegst]

No its not. The MAF is called a "hot-wire" MAF. Those little wires are platinum and heated to 212 or 240 farenheit. As air goes across them, they cool. More air, the cooler they get. The ECU (or in our case the MAF translator) supplies power to them to keep them at a consant temperature. More power to them = more air going into the engine.

 

[Ho0ked]

This is from RRE's websight on 2gmas mods, What do these honeycombs do ? and what does removing all of them cause that is bad ? I just removed all of them in an effort to get more air through my tiny ass 2 1/4" intake into my 3" turbo, yes i need a new intake but no $ atm just had 3"dp and cat welded saturday. I did notice my car idled low and loped with all them out, but i just turned the biss up some /shrug.


From RRE's websight.

Shown here is the lower honeycomb out. DO NOT remove the large square center honeycomb. Save the honeycombs in a safe place, you may need them later to get things right. You can remove them one at a time to get the result that you are after.

 

[aero_sallee]

This is from RRE's websight on 2gmas mods, What do these honeycombs do ? and what does removing all of them cause that is bad ? I just removed all of them in an effort to get more air through my tiny ass 2 1/4" intake into my 3" turbo, yes i need a new intake but no $ atm just had 3"dp and cat welded saturday. I did notice my car idled low and loped with all them out, but i just turned the biss up some /shrug.


From RRE's websight.

Shown here is the lower honeycomb out. DO NOT remove the large square center honeycomb. Save the honeycombs in a safe place, you may need them later to get things right. You can remove them one at a time to get the result that you are after.

Removing any of the honeycombes causes the sensor to not read linearly anymore. Which creates all kinds of tuning issues unless you have DSMlink. Link has a MAF compensation feature that allows you to tweak the sensor curve. The center one creates the karmen vortexes that the sensor measures. It won't work too well without it in.

Just put them back in. Its going to make tuning very difficult. Just wait until you can get a different intake.

 

[andymoraitis]

I have the lower honeycomb out on mine and the largest discernible effect has been a lumpiness in the idle. I find it somewhat annoying, but I can certainly run much more airflow without hitting overrun.

Nevertheless, I don't recommend it for everyone and think you should heed the advice above until you approach overrun level airflow.

Cheers,

Andy

 

[bfdahl]

these Honeycombs basicly just straigthen out the air as it is passing the sensors.

and the realy dont need to come out in applications under 400 whp.

I had a new chip done by Jeff O at DSM chips and he recomended that I stick the bottom and sides back in, I did and it runs a heck of alot better!

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

I have the two sides out and it lumps at idle, but I run slightlly leaner at WOT.

 

[Ho0ked]

thanks for the input, im not sure these things do anything, but my idle got lumpy and lower so i upped the biss screw, did couple loggs seems fine now just idling in the 900's /shrug and since my rebuild i got lean at 3k wot till bout 5k when boost is 23lbs.

btw im creeping on the 400hp mark easy now got a chirp hitting 3rd gear today at like 75 mph

Thats sweet, thanks again ill give it a few days and see what happens if anything

 

[Ho0ked]

Well after some rough idle and bad low throttle response, I decided to go ahead and return the honeycombs to my intake pipe.

Car runs good now, kust wanted better spool up but i'll go ahead and wait fro my new intake pipe, safer that way.

Thanks for all the info gang

 

[wolvee123]

Would removing all of the honeycomb mesh from inside the MAS create any of the following problems? btw I've already replaced the CAPs.

Fuel cut under load any boost level.
ECU clicking and car stalling.
erratic idle.
stock so-called boost gauge erratic readings at idle.

When I first got I took the advice of some idiots and I took ou tall of the honey comb.


what do I do to fix this/these problems?

 

[1gnow2g]

I never understood removing the honeycomb as a Karman
vortex MAF does really require that the air be laminar-ized
before the blunt. The ECU synthetic boost gauge is basically
based on the air flow. If you disconnect the MAF, then the
gauge is dead. Removing the honeycomb should not result
in what you are indicating. Make sure that it is connected
properly. I had the same problem, it was caused by stress
on the MAF connector. It broke the connector inside the MAF,
and a small piece of ceramic fell on the sonic transducer.
I had to cut the MAF open with a dreamel to get the car
driveable. Swap the MAF, if that does not fix it, then go
on to the ECU.

 

[RS-RGS-T]

YES do not touch it at alll!!!! you could have completely corrupted it!! You jus wacked up all your air reading and stock tunning completly your car will not function right with it like this what so ever!!!

 

[steve]

what do I do to fix this/these problems?

Reinstall them or get a new MAF.




To start with.

 

[wolvee123]

Now the car wont start at all!!!! I have fuel and air but no Spark... ANy ides? Once in a about 20 cranks it will spark but not start.

 

[steve]

Are you sure that the ECU is good?