anyone else have lower honeycomb problems? [Merged 10-6]

[wishIhadaturbo]

I can't be the first person that has done this. I busted out both honeycombs in my MAF. Does anybody sell replacements ? Or have an idea about what I should do. The car is idleing very rough now and misses whenever I am not accelerating.

Will

 

[PSI TSI]

My honeycomb is gone aswell not a difference in drivability at all.

 

[Catbox_95]

Thanks for the info guys.

My honeycomb is out, MAFT is tuned, SAFC now tuned also, wideband at 11.5-ish all the way to 7,400 rpm @ 20 psi...

And I'm HAPPY.

 

[FSTRDNU]

i had noticed on my logger that at about 4500 or so my mass air would max out, and make up a number, of 1609.3, it made this false number many times anytiome i would go WOT at above 4 grand or so, so i realized that my mass air unit was maxed out, so i took out the top honeycomb,( i had already previously took out the bottom one of course)
Most people when they do this notices that their car runs like crap. this is because the mass air unit can not read the air correctly, because the honeycome is there to straighten the air, when you take it out witha normal K&n the air gets sucked through the sides, adn messed up, and it cant measure it correctly. but if you cut out the middle circle in the end of your air filter, you can do this and the air will go straight through, and my car idled perfectly fine. and now i when i get aboove 4k i read more air, do not fuelcut, and my car pulls even harder.
PS another way to take off 2 tenths at the track is to do the oo so terrible disconnect your BOV line. this will casue you to keep spooling in between shifts, and get a little more unmeasured air, but dont do this unless you have a logger to meak sure you dont go to lean

 

[92awddsm]

I seriously doubt you were outflowing the 1g mas with just a 14b. I would suspect just a failing mas and removing the upper hc was just a band aid for another problem, not a cure. And as far as disconnecting the bov line, please dont recommend this. It is a very stupid idea and very misleading to newbies that dont know anybetter. Do it if you like, just keep it to yourself next time.

 

[elementalwindx]

I seriously doubt you were outflowing the 1g mas with just a 14b. I would suspect just a failing mas and removing the upper hc was just a band aid for another problem, not a cure. And as far as disconnecting the bov line, please dont recommend this. It is a very stupid idea and very misleading to newbies that dont know anybetter. Do it if you like, just keep it to yourself next time.

I agree. I have yet to see a 14b outflow a lil 1g mas.

 

[eclipsh]

I don't know about your MMcd datalogger but with a pocketlogger the max it CAN read is 1600 for the airflow. It is a software issue. So, even though it is going beyond that point it doesn't register.

As for cutting a hole in the air filter, what are you using to filter the air through there? I hope you're using something or you might as well run without a filter, which isn't that bad at the drag strip if it isn't dusty, but awful for a street car. If you really wanted to I suppose you could stick one of those little breather filters on it but I would question the quality of their filtration.

Oh, and the BOV line thing is definately bad advice unless you're running a GM blowthrough and a MAFT.

 

[FSTRDNU]

I used window wire, like chicken wire,
and like i said dont believe me if you dont want to, but theese are tricks that have been used for 10 years here, i see people on this forum that have built cars, and cant get in the 12's, and here i see 12 on 18 psi, with a litle bit of work, and tweaking, i monitor everything, and evything is fine, and it has been proven that theese help.
choose to not do them if you dont want to, but I know for a fact alot of this information off online sites many times false.
I ahve No fuel pump and stock injectors, and i am in the 12's, witha full exhaust and a stock turbo on 18 psi.

 

[AquariumPerson]

I would normally post at dsmtalk.com, but it appears to be down now or something and i just extremely recently am having really, really horrible problems with my car. Let me explain...

When i first got the car it was idling at 1,100 rmp, and had good power, ran fine.
So i took out the square honeycomb made out of some odd foil stuff or something, it was around 2" long, 1.75" wide and 1" thick. Then i took out the round metal thing in the air filter with cardboard...the thing that makes the air filter more silent....(my car is a 1990 elcipse GS not norbo dohc btw.)
i took off the air horn(i think thats what it is called) the plastic thing attatched to the metal air filter can thing, i drilled thru the things that hold it to the air can. I also took out the s-shaped thing that goes from a hole in the car body to the air horn's bottom. its around 3" long ...(im pretty sure u know what i mean)

whith all this out, yesterday, the car idled different. between 700 and 100 rmp, revving up on its own a bit. i understood this was pretty nor mal when adjusting the air intake. so i didnt change anything because i was going to adjust the BISS screw to get things set strate. I drove the car yesterday when the idle was going up and down, it drove fine with normal power, the belts squeeked bad tho.




TODAY. i started the car (EMERGENCY) it only idled at 200 RMP. and the engine shaked a whole lot, you push the gas pedal down half way and it is only showing the idle at 200rpm, randomly jumping to 3000 out of controll every once in a while. The FRONT COOLING FANS (the 2 big ones by the radiater DO NOT WORK> and, the air conditioning does not work. The car , in 3d gear, the speedometer only shows 2000 rpm and the car has no power. also while driving at 45 in 3d gear, the car jerks forwards every once in a while up to 3000 instantly then stops. and, when pushing on the gas in first, the car jerks really badly, then starts to move forwards.


remember in the beinning before any mods, the car ran at 1100 rpms, now its 200 which the car shaking badly. the engine doesnt die, the car just shakes, and when u push on the gas, again it shakes a LOT then moves normally. when i was driving it...no power.

this is bad. i replaced the honeycomb thing, and the air horn, and the s shaped thing. but not the sound horn...the thing that reduces the noise of the air intake.



it still runs horribly, after this.


ive messed some thing up. any ideas? this is bad, really bad.

ohh and the check engine light was on (duh) it wasnt before.......

 

[1993eclipseGS]

1.) Spell check.
2.) replace your mass air flow sensor, You screwed the original one up by removing ALL of the honeycombs.

 

[No_Skillz]

MAF sensor or not, you need those honeycombs.

 

[98RedGs]

First: Put the problems that you're having with the car IN the thread title.

Second: Spellcheck on the forums was added because some people kind-of need it.

Third: It's not a good idea to perform a mod to your car if you don't know what the item is your modifying or if you don't know at least 90% of what you should be doing.

Fourth: I agree, Your Mass Air Flow Sensor got jacked up from the mods you did to the car, you only remove certain honeycombs if your doing it... not all of them.

Fifth: Did you go get the codes checked rather than just driving around with it staying lit?


-Thank you
John

 

[talonTSIDriver]

The car , in 3d gear, the speedometer only shows 2000 rpm and the car has no power.

The speedometer shows your speed, not RPM's, the Tachometer shows your RPM's. I would say check the connections on the Mass Air Flow Sensor and maybe try replacing one.

 

[jasoncitrano]

don't mean to be a jackass but the vfaq is pretty much designed for retards...how you could mess that up and remove all the honeycombs is beyond me?

 

[AquariumPerson]

Turns out I solved my own problem with no help using ingenuity, and it wasn't anything to do with the MAS.

Well, as it turns out, I noticed the wire hooked up to the throttle, the little push on thing with the single wire coming out of it...it was very loose. So, what i did is I got some plyers, and squeezed the push in plastic connector togeather so the (2) metal pieces inside that connect to the little metal thing on the top of the throttle...(i dont know what its called...) and pushed it on. It fit, tightly. Unlike being extremely loose before.

I turned the key...........

BAM! The engine ran perfectly(!) the rpm's were steady @ 1000, radiator fans blowing away, engine not jerking. My dad test drove the car, and he said "yep its powerful!" Yay I fixed a problem myself without paying the mechanic.

Ohh and I took the air horn thing and honeycomb back out, it still runs steady at 1000 RPM's.




BUT... the A/C still doesn't work. While finding the above problem, I noticed that there was one push in plastic piece and both the wires had been chewed off by some mammal, to the point where i can not just wire nut them back togeather. I am going to have to get a new plastic piece like that with attached wires from auto place. Maybe this is why the a/c is not working??? I dunno.

Ohh one of the belts...i don't know which one...its hard to tell, when you push on the gas it squeaks and smokes...they both seem tight enough, maybe not. I am going to get them replaced by a mechanic because I am sure not one...

thanks

 

[jasoncitrano]

Turns out I solved my own problem with no help using ingenuity, and it wasn't anything to do with the MAS.

Well, as it turns out, I noticed the wire hooked up to the throttle, the little push on thing with the single wire coming out of it...it was very loose. So, what i did is I got some plyers, and squeezed the push in plastic connector togeather so the (2) metal pieces inside that connect to the little metal thing on the top of the throttle...(i dont know what its called...) and pushed it on. It fit, tightly. Unlike being extremely loose before.

I turned the key...........

BAM! The engine ran perfectly(!) the rpm's were steady @ 1000, radiator fans blowing away, engine not jerking. My dad test drove the car, and he said "yep its powerful!" Yay I fixed a problem myself without paying the mechanic.

Ohh and I took the air horn thing and honeycomb back out, it still runs steady at 1000 RPM's.




BUT... the A/C still doesn't work. While finding the above problem, I noticed that there was one push in plastic piece and both the wires had been chewed off by some mammal, to the point where i can not just wire nut them back togeather. I am going to have to get a new plastic piece like that with attached wires from auto place. Maybe this is why the a/c is not working??? I dunno.

Ohh one of the belts...i don't know which one...its hard to tell, when you push on the gas it squeaks and smokes...they both seem tight enough, maybe not. I am going to get them replaced by a mechanic because I am sure not one...

thanks

Dude changing belts on a dsm is a joke!! do it yourself man.

 

[oldman]

Ohh and I took the air horn thing and honeycomb back out, it still runs steady at 1000 RPM's.

1. You should be idling at 750.

2. Put the honeycombs back in.

 

[AquariumPerson]

Well it idled at 1,100 RPM's with the honeycombs in before I did anything...and now it idles at 1000 so that's good enough for me.


the reason I say this is because i know there is some mod over at dsmtalk.com that idles around 1000. so it cant be too dangerous.

 

[92awddsm]

ac pump is probably shot if all of a sudden, the belt squeaks and smokes. Also, the switch you speak of is the closed throttle switch and has nothing to do with the fans. And if you cant change your own belts, you really shouldnt be modding your car. Like said before, put your hc back in the mas before you have to post a thread asking why all of you spark plugs have melted electrodes.

 

[oldman]

put your hc back in the mas before you have to post a thread asking why all of you spark plugs have melted electrodes.

If he is lucky.

Well it idled at 1,100 RPM's with the honeycombs in before I did anything...and now it idles at 1000

One has little to do with the other, two different issues.

 

[Eclipxor]

You can remove the cardboard star thingy called the silencer that is about it. You need a whole new MAF now. I am here to congratulate you on maybe ruining you ECU. You car probably couldnt deal with weird signals like that and it may have tried to correct them. you MAF works like a microphone. It cant hear anything because the honeycombs arent vibrating to make noise that the MAF picks up. So taking them out confuses the car.

 

[jaredgsx]

Its OK we all made mistakes when we were new at this stuff.
For the longevity of your car i would put the honeycombs back in.
If you have not done all the maintenance ( i.e. changed all the belts, serviced everything that has fluid in it) then you should get on that before you add anything extra to it. once again this is just info to help you keep your car running better longer.

 

[AquariumPerson]

Hi, I finally decided that taking the square honeycomb with all the tiny 6 sided holes in it out does more harm than good. My car was idling off a bit. So I put it back in, then my car idled horribly. Up and down between 1000 and 2000. So I let the car run for around 10 mins at least, pushing on the gas every once and a while, turning off and on the heater every once and a while... (because it draws power and I wanted to see how the engine would run while I did that. ) I also turned off and on the headlights, but I didnt notice any effect. After for doing these verious things for around 10-15 minuits, the car idles steady around 1000-1100. Will I have to drive the car a little while more before the idle surge completely stops? And if it still idles close to 1000, will I have to mess with the BISS screw?


Also note that right after I put the honeycomb back in (when the car was idling worst) once the engine went down to around 500 rpms and i noticed the check engine light came on....probably normal I am sure.

The oil fill cap was just replaced so it doesnt leak anymore. And the belts...no more squeeking...along with the PCV valve. It seems fine, just idles a little high BUT...

You know the throttle cable, right? will i followed it and it goes down to a metal box thing. And there I saw a nut and bolt that held it in place so it won't move around. (but the nut was missing) well there is another nut and bolt that holds some other cable down. Not sure where it goes. But the nut on the throttle cable is gone, leaving the bolt loosly in place. Where did it go? I dunno. This is bad right? I will have to get a new nut so I can tighten it back to normal. My question here is, are both bolts supposed to be tightened down the same length with the nuts? thanks Or is it just supposed to be where the throttle cable is tight. Thanks

 

[blcknspo0ln]

you're post is so far off it's hilarious

but to answer your questions, RESET your ECU before you mess with your BISS screw. Also, read up on how to PROPERLY adjust your BISS screw if you do decide to do it. and yes, it involves folded pieces of paper, unplugging your ISC, and then adjusting it with a multimeter.

And for your throttle cable question, just make sure its taut, but not TIGHT.

 

[wolf20043]

you're post is so far off it's hilarious

but to answer your questions, RESET your ECU before you mess with your BISS screw. Also, read up on how to PROPERLY adjust your BISS screw if you do decide to do it. and yes, it involves folded pieces of paper, unplugging your ISC, and then adjusting it with a multimeter.

And for your throttle cable question, just make sure its taut, but not TIGHT.

The other cable is your cruise control. If it is working properly dont adjust the cable, only the throttle cable when you get the nut back on.
Mike

 

[AquariumPerson]

ok, the cruise controll works fine...no adjusting there. thanks for the help