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anyone else have lower honeycomb problems? [Merged 10-6]

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wishIhadaturbo

20+ Year Contributor
117
0
Jul 14, 2002
Dayton, Ohio
I can't be the first person that has done this. I busted out both honeycombs in my MAF. Does anybody sell replacements ? Or have an idea about what I should do. The car is idleing very rough now and misses whenever I am not accelerating.

Will
 
i did my research before i posted ! !

ok , my car was stock when i got her. driven by an older woman.

so i decided to do the exhaust and maf hack.

so i removed the silencer , and removed the honeycomb thats shown in the pic.

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also hacked the outside of the housing until it looked like this

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i also did a 2.5" catback.

i noticed that i was getting really really bad gas milage......... like 8-10 mpg. OMG

and my idle was really really low. so i turned the BISS screw without grounding any of the wires ( it tottaly slipped my mind to ground the wires.) the idle went from 700 to 1000 when i adjusted the screw.
ok , idle prob solved.

and when i parked the car in my garage and revved the motor a lil bit , black soot was below where the exhaust exits. :cry: running really rich. i also felt the car was lagging / power loss.

so i put the silencer back in , but i cant find the honeycomb. it seems to be the same , no diffrence anyone know what i can do to fix this ??

should i ground the wires and re-adjust the biss screw?

and maybe this has something to do with my car overheating ?

all my problems came after i hacked the maf.

Thanks again Guys ! !
 

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sYnOnYx said:
damn all these views, someones gotta know !


from the sounds of things it has nothing to do with the mas it sounds like u may have fried ur rings do u go though oil quickly?? :laser:
 
I think the timing of the problems is just a coincidence. Either way, yes, readjust the idle w/ the biss screw. 700 is not really really low. 700-750 is a perfect idle. It's hard to say what is causing the rest of the problems without more detail.
 
Removing that screen will make you run slightly leaner, but not to the point of black plumes of smoke.

My guess is that you have an intake leak somewhere that is either pulling in unmetered air (btw MAS ans turbo) or is "venting" metered air (btw turbo and intake). This would also explain the sudden change in idle :dsm:
 
92las92 said:
from the sounds of things it has nothing to do with the mas it sounds like u may have fried ur rings do u go though oil quickly?? :laser:


nope , oil stays the same. compression check was good.

the problem occured after i did the hack , so it must have something to do with the hack.

im going out to the garage now to fix one of my hoses and re-adjust the biss screw.

ill take my camera with me.
 
i did hear that taking out the honeycomb is a bad idea and would hurt performance. so i'd probably put that back in if i were u
 
ok heres some pix , i called a local knowledgeable dsm guy , and he told me to back out the screw seen in the pic , and i should run better. so i did.


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heres my hacked maf- no honeycomb here
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ok , after sitting by where the exhaust comes out , i noticed IT WAS lil drops of oil coming out , i guess 92las92 was right, but i dont think its my rings , in my past experience , smoke would be white if i was burning oil in the chamber, and if my rings were ####ed smoke would be blueish.

so im thinking its prolly my turbo oil seal, since this turbo has 200k on it , and the motor only has 80k on it. heres the pic where the exhaust exits.

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i drove it to work (10miles)

boosted first chance i got , felt waaay better.

i also thought if my turbo seal was bad it should smoke pretty bad under boost.

nope. not at all.

as far as gas milage goes , i wont know until i drive it about another 20 miles.
 
sYnOnYx said:
ok heres some pix , i called a local knowledgeable dsm guy , and he told me to back out the screw seen in the pic , and i should run better. so i did.



heres my hacked maf- no honeycomb here
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ok after sitting by where the exhaust comes out , i noticed IT WAS lil drops of oil coming out , i guess 92las92 was right, but i dont think its my rings , in my past experience , smoke would be white if i was burning oil in the chamber, and if my rings were ####ed smoke would be blueish.

so im thinking its prolly my turbo oil seal, since this turbo has 200k on it , and the motor only has 80k on it. heres the pic where the exhaust exits.


The way it looks to me is that you removed the wrong honeycomb.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/filter-print.html
 

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That black spray is from condensation build up during warm-up. The exhaust has black soot lined throughout the inside. Once condensation builds up it takes some of the soot with it upon exiting. Both the wife's and my DSMs do that. You should see out garage door. LOL!
 
flytalon93 said:
That black spray is from condensation build up during warm-up. The exhaust has black soot lined throughout the inside. Once condensation builds up it takes some of the soot with it upon exiting. Both the wife's and my DSMs do that. You should see out garage door. LOL!


*phew* thats good news.

i didnt take out the other honeycomb beacuse it looks as if the wires are attached to that honeycomb , OOPS. looks like ill hit the junkyard in the morning , and grab another honeycomb.

thanks again , i appreciate the input.
 
Is there an increase in horsepower if you cut out the honeycomb in the maf or is this just a myth. If so, how easy is it and how do you do it? :dsm:
 
Is there an increase in horsepower if you cut out the honeycomb in the maf or is this just a myth. If so, how easy is it and how do you do it? :dsm:
 
Is there an increase in horsepower if you cut out the honeycomb in the maf or is this just a myth. If so, how easy is it and how do you do it? :dsm:
 
racerj782002 said:
Is there an increase in horsepower if you cut out the honeycomb in the maf or is this just a myth.
It's an old fashion way of leaning he car out and addressing the stock MAF dropping counts at high airflow. The downside is you can wind up with idle problems from the output being too low and you can wind up too lean.

There are much better ways to solve both problems nowdays. ECU reporgramming, piggyback computers like the SAFC, and better MAFs like the 2G and 3G ones or a MAFT and GM hotwire sensor.

There isn't a whole lot to be gained from this on a N/T.

Steve
 
Are most of you removing the honeycomb inside the GM MAF, and is it alright to do so? I know the old skool thought was that you should remove it, but I've read some controversy on this.

Also, I read it is wise to reset the ECU when installing a GM MAFT. Is this done by just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, or is there something else that should be done?

Thanks-
 
Catbox_95 said:
Are most of you removing the honeycomb inside the GM MAF, and is it alright to do so? I know the old skool thought was that you should remove it, but I've read some controversy on this.

Also, I read it is wise to reset the ECU when installing a GM MAFT. Is this done by just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, or is there something else that should be done?

Thanks-

I run mine without the screen with no problems. As for resetting the ecu, I can't remember if you'd need to or not. My car was down when I installed mine anyway. One tip though, if you can, I'd install the maft in your console or somewhere inside the car. Making adjustments is SOOOO much easier and definately worth the hassle to install it there. Also, if it's flashing any codes, you can't exactly see it while driving down the road if it's in the engine bay. But to reset the ecu, yeah, you can just disconnect the neg. on the battery for a few.
 
I personally don't recommend removing the honeycombs, but that's just me.

As for the MAFT install, yes it's recommend that you reset the ECU after you install it. That way your fuel trims are reset to 100%(1G) or 0%(2G) and your tuning will be easier.
 
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