Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[gsxeclipse97]

When i got mine done the machine shop said wait 500 miles then change the oil. After first oil change you can drive normal; and after 2nd oil change you are good to get on it which is at 1000 miles after the first.

 

[Defiant]

All the myths you'll ever need:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...break-breaking-motor-break-merged-10-6-a.html

Motors don't care. You might break it in perfectly and get an extra five-thousand miles out of it. Most performance car engines are either taken down and rebuilt before they need it, or are blown up before they're due. Just drive. Your own sense of guilt will assure that you don't over-do it.

 

[gorf]

My new built motor's going in my car in the next couple weeks and this is the break in process I'll be following.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

My daddy always said "break it in the way you are going to use it".

You have to break it in hard if you are going to use it hard.

I agree with your link - thanks

 

[Rob10_99]

I agree 100% with a hard break-in, seat the rings or chance glazing when your babying it.
Idle(750-2500rpm) for 30 minutes and let it cool, check everything, then go rail on it.

 

[64_Frankenstein]

I say 2nd oil change as well but in this sequence :
1st oil change = 1,000 miles
2nd oil change = 2,500 miles

I rather wait to rack up 3k miles and wait a little then be sorry down the road. Good luck and have fun.

Good info. Thanks.

 

[lowandsleekDSM]

Hey everyone,
I am doing some research on how to break my `97 2gb motor in properly because i`m almost time to put my motor back in my car after a fresh stock rebuild (pistons and crank and rods are all stock along with stock rings and clevite rod bearings) and i found the web site that explains the "Motoman Method" and well im sure some people have read about it but have anyone actually done it and can give me some results from this way of break in? Im actually scared about the break in period I mean i can drive the car without beating on it a little bit for the first 500 miles or so. But has anyone had any experience with the "Motoman Method" and can give me some advice about this? Thanx everyone

 

[Supa Dexta]

I know bikes can have good results with it. But I'm not sure if I'd do a boosted application. I'm more to do over kill oil changes, get a few heat cycles into it with proper warm up and cool downs.

 

[99gst_racer]

I'll be doing the Motoman break-in on my fresh rebuild in about a week. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[lowandsleekDSM]

Yea thats what i`ve been reading...about a lot of oil changes and proper heat cycles and cool downs. Im just trying to not find the fastest way to break my engine in...but the most beneficial (sp?) way to do it. Any more suggestions from anyone else?

yea 99gst racer that would be awesome if you could do that!

 

[drewvr4]

For the first 100 miles take it easy but try not to do any highway driving, keeping the rpm's at a constant speed is the worst thing for a new motor. Your trying to break the rings in right, after the first 100 miles drive it like you would any other time and you will be fine. Ive done many many motors like that including motorcycle engines and haven't had one failure

 

[eclipsh]

Not a turbo engine but I broke in a 22RE in my wife's 89 4Runner using this method. I'm about to do the first oil change on it this weekend. The compression on it is great. As soon as I turn the key off the engine stops instantly. I can do a compression check on it this weekend after I readjust the valves.

 

[lowandsleekDSM]

Yea i read where you need to take it easy for the first few miles and yes constant rpms are a big no no so thats something im going to look out for....and for the high way driving, i only do that about 10% of the time which is ironic because i live near downtown tampa but most of my driving is around town here so i should be ok with the nonconstant rpm kinda driving. I guess its not as hard as i thought when it comes to breaking in an engine, maybe im just kinda thinking too much into it? i dont know i was just researching the "Motoman Method" looks pretty interesting to me. But i think i`m leaning towards Drewvr4`s way - just take it eas for the first 100 miles and just drive it like normal after that, which is around what the chiltons book states but its more around 500 for the break in period and then drive it normally after that and then at about 1500-2000 mile mark just drive it with no worries. Sorry for the stupid questions...never did a break in of an engine before...let alone a rebuild.

 

[turboglenn]

I do fast semi-hard break ins on everything i own. You break em in too easy and you have more issues in my experience. I give it an idle up to temp, then cool down. Then idle up to temp with some slow free reving in there and then one more cool down. Then i take it out and vary boost and RPM constantly while not going completely WOT but not letting the motor cruise at one RPM any more thn 30 seconds or so. ALso if your cams are new or the cam journals have been line bored you will want to start the car and hold it at 1500 RPM minimum for 15 minutes on the very first start. I usually keep mine around 2k for cam break in.

Motoman is a very smart guy, anmd although i don't use his exact break in, mine isn't too far off. Just do your own method using what you've learned from others and a bit of your own preference

YOu want the rings to seat under a light amount of boost and it only takes about teh first 20-30 minutes for the rings to seat. But definitly don't seat them under light cruise light load conditions or your car will most likely smoke. Also rememebr to break in on conventional oil and run it for at least 1500 miles on that, then you can go synthetic if you please

 

[lowandsleekDSM]

Hmm these suggestions look good. I think i`ll use a little bit of your method turboglenn and a little bit of drewvr4`s way also. So is it safe to say, when your doing the heat cycles when i start the engine for the first time, i should get the car to temp first then shutting the car off and letting it cool down? and then repeat the process with some slow revs and let the car cool down again, then drive the car around town a bit not keeping it at constant rpms and then maybe....drive the car for about 100 miles or so, do an oil change and just keep the synthetic out of the engine till around 1500 miles and then switch to synthetic? And i also had my head rebuild so i`m guessing them MIGHT have line honed my cam journals, so i should just take the car right off the bat to about 1500 rpms for 15 minutes just to be safe?

 

[turboglenn]

You can go to 1500 right off and hold it there for 15 minutes, then shut the car off and let it cool. That will be your first heat cycle. On the second start, go ahead and drive it around, constantly going up and down in the RPM range but avoid lugging it down (bogging it) you're better off to get into some boost than to let the motor bog. use slow linear throttle input in 1st and 2ng gear around a parking lot for about 10-15 minutes then let it cool once again (2nd heat cycle in now almost complete)

On the third drive/start, get the car slightly warm enough to drive and then go for a cruise around the city streets (try and avoid rush hour where you'll sit at lights forever) then just keep accelerating in second and third at mid throttle about 3/4 of your boost setting is fine to be seen (50 - 75% throttle, but not to redline 5500 - 6500 is fine) and then slowing down, down shift as usual. do this for a half hour or so. Let it cool once more and then just start getting into it like you would daily driving for the next week or so just avoiding extended periods of WOT just for the sake of saying you gave the slower seating things like rod and main bearings, wrist pins and everything a chance to settle in properly. The ring will be seated after your first decent half hour drive (run # 3). Just make sure you don't let the motor just sit and idle on the first few startups (1 & 2) Just do it like it explained here

Change the oil after run # 3, then again at 100 miles and 1500 miles (that's what i do) Everything i wrote above is how i do my engines and what i would do if you told me to break yours in for you. Best of luck and don't' be afraid to seat the motor in with some boost. Look at most race engines, they are broken in WOT on the dyno and get the 2 heat cycles before hand to ensure they are running smoothly if they are lucky

 

[My1GLaser]

I also used a modified Motoman method similar to turboglenn. Ran it for 15 min in the garage and shut it down and changed the oil filter...to get rid of the assembly lube. Took it out for a 20 mile drive in town & I ran 10-12 psi on my break-in 14b. Basically followed the suggested rpm runs...used ALOT of engine braking. Every time I got to the specified rpm I engine braked it back down to ~ 2,000 rpms. (I didn't take it over 5500-6000 rpms on that run)

I did 200 miles of city driving (hit 6000-6500 fairly often) before I took it out on the highway to do 3rd gear pulls. It saw 6500-7000 rpms and 16 psi at about 250 miles.

I ran non-detergent SAE 30 NAPA oil & Mitsu filters and changed the oil 5 times by 1000 miles. Way overkill, but whats an extra $40-50 in oil & filters for my $2500 motor? At 1000 miles I switched to conventional 10w30. I will switch to synthetic at my next oil change.

I checked my compression at 140 miles and it was 185 psi. I just checked it last weekend at 1800 miles and it is 185 psi. So it was broke in great and I am very happy with the results. Good luck!

 

[Locke]

Motoman's method works for me.

 

[92awddsm]

ALso if your cams are new or the cam journals have been line bored you will want to start the car and hold it at 1500 RPM minimum for 15 minutes on the very first start. I usually keep mine around 2k for cam break in.

Not too argue but this is slightly inaccurate. You are thinking about a flat tapper cam, not a roller cam like what we have. Also, the cam doesnt ride against the saddles in the head, but instead, a thin layer of oil between the 2.

In short, roller cams require no break in time neither do any bearing surfaces. The only parts requiring break in is friction parts.

 

[turboglenn]

Not too argue but this is slightly inaccurate. You are thinking about a flat tapper cam, not a roller cam like what we have. Also, the cam doesnt ride against the saddles in the head, but instead, a thin layer of oil between the 2.

In short, roller cams require no break in time neither do any bearing surfaces. The only parts requiring break in is friction parts.

Good info, i've just always done the same thing with all cams. When i learned the method we were building everything from mopars to OHC porsche I4's and the guy always had me break the cams in the same way no matter what motor, so i guess i've just kept it out of habbit since there's never been an issue that i've seen from doing it.

 

[92awddsm]

Good info, i've just always done the same thing with all cams. When i learned the method we were building everything from mopars to OHC porsche I4's and the guy always had me break the cams in the same way no matter what motor, so i guess i've just kept it out of habbit since there's never been an issue that i've seen from doing it.

No issue. Just an unneeded step. I tend to do the same thing out of habit. The biggest thing to remember is to soak the rockers in fresh oil for a while(generally overnight) so oil can seep into the needle bearings in the rollers. Without soaking them, they could run dry for a while after initial startup. They are only oiled by runoff from the lifters and cam sling and at higher rpm, most of the engine oil is slung off the roller before it has a chance to reach the needles.

 

[Defiant]

Aw, crap. Not AGAIN.

 

[Secksthemex]

I have done the initial break in, drained the oil because I figured I should because I have to replace the rear main seal. But, I noticed a couple of flakes of metal, and lots of very fine particles that were quite reflective is this normal? Should Everything is brand new block wise, but the head is like 10k used. Should I do anything to make sure everything is ok? Thanks

 

[Quickspool]

Most of what was said here is good advice to go by. Just take it easy for about 1000 kms or so. I wouldn't take the highway either. Doing constantly 100km holding a RPM can't be good. Besides crusing in the city streets or downtown is fun anyway.

I'm on my final rebuild (JDM motor shipped from Ontario) and was wondering if a 1997-1999 4g63 can go in and plug up to a 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD that use to have a 4g63 but is now totally scrapped. Maybe because it was broke in wrong I don't know. Sucks, but oh well, that's it. Trying not to go off topic because I've been here before... twice! So I'm wondering if this can be done. I can't see why a 1997-1999 Mitsu/Eagle, Eclipse/Talon 4g63 can't plug in and run properly in a 1995 Talon that use to carry one. I also can't see why the harness wires+plugs won't plug in either as it is still in the car. It's just the motor/tranny/driveshaft removed and nothing else.

Anyway. Hope I've shined some insight here. I'm open to any suggestions and/or questions any of you might have.


Best Regards,
Kirk

 

[motomattxxx]

Most of what was said here is good advice to go by. Just take it easy for about 1000 kms or so. I wouldn't take the highway either. Doing constantly 100km holding a RPM can't be good. Besides crusing in the city streets or downtown is fun anyway.

I'm on my final rebuild (JDM motor shipped from Ontario) and was wondering if a 1997-1999 4g63 can go in and plug up to a 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD that use to have a 4g63 but is now totally scrapped. Maybe because it was broke in wrong I don't know. Sucks, but oh well, that's it. Trying not to go off topic because I've been here before... twice! So I'm wondering if this can be done. I can't see why a 1997-1999 Mitsu/Eagle, Eclipse/Talon 4g63 can't plug in and run properly in a 1995 Talon that use to carry one. I also can't see why the harness wires+plugs won't plug in either as it is still in the car. It's just the motor/tranny/driveshaft removed and nothing else.

Anyway. Hope I've shined some insight here. I'm open to any suggestions and/or questions any of you might have.


Best Regards,
Kirk

The 95' uses a different cam sensor than the 97-99, so you would have to re-use the sensor from the 95'...other than that you are good to go.

 

[sprocket2005]

Ok, ive read like 20 of the 25 pages on this "break in" thing and i cant find any clear answers, Im rebuilding my 6 bolt motor and am not sure what the best way to break it in is. I wanna know is there anything wrong with running it at very low (like 5psi) boost for a long time (like 3500 - 5000 miles) then turning it back up to 20psi? Im concerned about the compression and i wanna minimize blow by as much as possible. I had a bad experience with fuel in my oil with the last motor which destroyed my main and rod bearings so im highly concerned with blow by. Also, how should i tune it? I mean i have dsm link but the most recent tune saved in my computer is a dyno tune from slowboy racing at 18psi. How can i tune it to run at 5psi? I only know one person who can tune without a dyno and he likes to make it run rich as hell and thats how the fuel got in my oil before and i dont wanna dyno tune from the get go. I feel like im stuck and have no way to make my car run right EVER. Also i am not trying to build a rocket, i just want a quick daily driver.