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Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

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BrokeTurbo

20+ Year Contributor
49
0
Sep 4, 2002
As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.


Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks
 
Well, i dont know if people still read through this, but i'm going to post it anyway. This is from the Chilton Repair Manual for Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990-1998 repair manual for break-in:

Make the first miles on the new engine, easy ones. Vary the speed but do not accelerate hard. Most importantly, do not lug the engine, and avoid sustained high speeds until at least 100 miles. Check the engine oil and coolant levels frequently. Expect the engine to use a little oil until the rings seat. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles, 1500 miles, then every 3000 miles past that.
 
Ok im about to breakin my rebuilt motor and i was wondering if i should boost while i do it, or unclip the wastegate to run 0psi while i do it??

Should i start out not boosting and slowing add boost and slowly turn it up to where i want to be?

or just boost it stock boost??

i was told be some people to not boost but also too boost!!

Please help!!!!
 
Yeah, the above link has gotten good feedback from many members of this site as well as other sites
 
yes i know ive read that site hundred times just to make sure i know how to do it!!
i see his facts and believe in what he says but it doesn't mention anything about a boosted engine!!

ill just email him and ask him, maybe he'll let me know whats up!!!

still would like more opinions and input from others!!

thanks
 
I did mine 8psi and drove the heck out of it,10,000k later pulls like a tractor trailor,oh now i ran 20psi on the 14b
 
I followed the Motoman method to the "t." I ran about 12 psi for the first 100-150 miles then turned it up to about 16 for another 100. I had perfect compression at 150 miles, and the last time I checked at about 5k on the motor.

Boost it!

Its more important to pull out some timing so you can lean it out to about 11.5-12:1 AFR. You don't want all that fuel washing down the cyl walls on a stock fuel curve while boosting. That's harder to accomplish without timing control and WB though.
 
well, you wanted was to know weather you should boost or not while breakin your engine in. your engine is built to handle boost and will be handling boost throughout the life of the engine and seeing that somebody has already broken in their engine while boosting with a detailed walk through and stats showing good results gives you your answer. Yes you can boost while breaking in your engine. But ultimately its up to you. Do what works...
 
ok thanks everyone and thanks to the moderator for moving it here cause i could find this!!

ill post something up in the days updating and letting it be known how my car is!!

thanks again!
 
Anybody know what weight oil should be used on a new engine? 10w30 good enough as long as its not synthetic?
 
I just had my entire motor rebuilt. New rings, pistons, rods, bearings, valves springs, bored, ported, ect, ect. Best way to break her in? I'm switching over to synthetic oil at 500 miles, how should I be driving? More highway? Hills? thx.
 
I wouldnt switch over to synthetic until later, maybe 2500 miles or even 5000 miles. If I had more time I would give you a rundown of how I'm going to break mine it but I have to get to class so i'll get back to you.
 
i have a few questions about the break in process, 1 i would like to hear from some people that have used Motoman's process and how its going for them, i like the ideas of it and im thinking about trying it. and 2nd i want to know if anyone has used the Royal Purple Break-in Oil?

thanks
 
I remember buying a brand new 1998 Honda CBR 900 (fireblade) and since it was my first brand new bike I wanted to break it in properly..... I went old school and followed the old rules of not going to hard on the gas for prolonged periods, I didn't go over 6000rpm for the first 500 km's and none of that was with the throttle to the stop at any time.

I didn't give the bike full throttle until 900 km's were on it but I was gradually increasing RPM's the whole time, heavy throttle till 7000 rpm, then bring it down let the cylinders get washed and then next time hit 7500 rpm.... it was agonizing.

it wasn't until a month later that I found out it was all a waste of time and that my engine was good to go within the first 100 km's.

while I don't doubt the authors comments my break in while agonizing yielded some decent results with the motor getting 111.00 to the rear wheel stock with horrid stock jetting and jumped another 11hp to 122 rear wheel measured and compensated for atmostpheric conditions which was about 6hp more than my friends CBR 900's.

their bikes were earlier models though so while I was making more pony it had more to do with luck of the draw than break in.
 
Always break an engine in easy as stated above^^^ Hundreds of manufacturers and thousands of years of collective engineering experience is'nt wrong because some wiseguy creates a website and tells you to beat the sh1t out of your stuff during break in.

i have a few questions about the break in process, 1 i would like to hear from some people that have used Motoman's process and how its going for them, i like the ideas of it and im thinking about trying it. and 2nd i want to know if anyone has used the Royal Purple Break-in Oil?

thanks

His "method" has ruined more parts than anyone would like to admit. People that have used his "method" like to blame it on everything else instead though when their engine is junk within 5000 miles, do what you want...what do I know? I'm just a seasoned mechanic.

i have a few questions about the break in process, 1 i would like to hear from some people that have used Motoman's process and how its going for them, i like the ideas of it and im thinking about trying it. and 2nd i want to know if anyone has used the Royal Purple Break-in Oil?

thanks

"my1glaser" above said that he followed the motoman "method" to a T...do a search and you will find this post:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/356169-too-much-crank-case-pressure.html where he states that he HAD TOO MUCH CRANKCASE BLOWBY which is caused by piston rings leaking compression folks! He states that he had to use some aftermarket crankcase ventillation system to "fix" the problem and that he recommended it to the poster in that thread, because he has'nt had problems with excessive crankcase pressure since...hmm, guess what? You SHOULD'NT have excessive crankcase pressure to begin with if your rings sealed properly, his "fix" is a bandaid to cover up his rings that don't seal.:rolleyes:
 
Hello, guys. I have been reading parts from this thread and this site Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power. I get it in theory, but I have some questions to refine my plan.

1. I am planning to crank my turbo up to 28 psi (FP68HTA). When breaking in should I boost it up to 28 PSI or I should start with a lower value. I was thinking to break it in with 15psi boosting turbo and when she's ready to increase the boost to 28 PSI. What do you think.

2. I will be reving up to 8K RPM. When breaking in what pulls are better to do. Should I adjust my rev limiter to a lower value or I should make pulls to 8K?
 
Definitely do NOT start at 28psi during a break in, start at a max of 10psi you have to make sure everything is working properly before you push your setup to the max. Also i wouldn't ever take a new engine or any for that matter to 8k RPMs.

gl
 
You'll want to put the engine under some load, but you don't need to rag on it or race it. 15 PSI boost is plenty. There's no need for high RPM or WOT either. You just want to vary RPM and alternate vacuum to boost - that's it. When we broke in my roommate's 6-bolt, we kept it under 70% throttle, 7000 RPMs, and 14 PSI boost, because nothing more is needed to get the job done. And make sure you aren't running pig rich.
 
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