Engine Break In

[an orange crayon]

Ok so i have read the big thread on breaking in engines, but any one done it recently like 2 or 3 years ago and bored to 20 over and saw good compresion after? How did you do it and what did you run with boost. Ill be running sact h-beam rods and weisco .020 pistons and a 16g turbo. (just for reference)

 

[WES_393]

My engine was just recently broken in (2,500 miles on bottom end). This is the method I used to break in the engine. I ran wastegate pressure during the first 250 miles or so. By that time compression was perfect across the board. I'm running Eagle H-beams, Manley 86mm pistons, and a s16g.

Use regular 10W30 oil.
Before you fire up the engine, remove the MPI fuse (or wires to injectors) and crank the engine several times to build oil pressure.
Put the MPI fuse back, start the engine and immediately take it to 1.5-2K to maintain the oil pressure so the lifters fill with oil and the cams bed properly.
No matter what you do, don't let the engine idle.
When the engine warms up and the coolant temperature is normal, bring the RPM to 3K and hold it there for 20-30 minutes.
Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and timing.
When done, shut the engine off, check for any oil/coolant leaks, change the oil and the oil filter and let the engine cool down.
If everything checks out OK, take the car for a spin and several 30-65-30 mph pulls at stock boost level.
At this point, the engine is fully broken in, but you might want to take it easy for a few more days and keep an eye on oil/coolant leaks, loose bolts and hoses, etc.
Change the oil/oil filter at 500 miles again.

There's absolutely no need to drive 500 miles under 3K or 1500 miles without boosting. As a matter of fact, you can tune the car and race the engine the same day you install it.

 

[DSM1G90]

Ya...those small power blips helps the rings to seat quicker and more thorough.

" bring the RPM to 3K and hold it there for 20-30 minutes." I'd be a bit worried on this one though for this could cause the break-in to be set at this RPM instead of running through the RPM's so the rings dont seat in at a set RPM.

 

[WES_393]

True, which is why I varied my engine speed between 2500 and 3500 throughout the 30 minutes. But the whole point is to get the rings inflated against the cylinder so they wear in. The rest of the break in happens while driving so you can wear the rings with power and vacuum (hence the 30-65-30 pulls).

But I wouldn't be worried about the rings wearing at certain RPM, the piston does the same thing at 3K RPM as it does at 6K RPM, I just wouldn't be comfortable free revving an engine that high for that long.

 

[Riceburning101]

Likes others said have to seat the rings and change oil. It's said usually in the first 20ish miles is when the rings seat. So after 50 miles I usually treat it pretty nice and baby it. I get paranoid with metal shavings in new motors so I change the oil/filter at 20, 100, 500, 1000, then your normal schedule.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

All you need to know.

 

[Kapok6]

All you need to know.

+1 This is how I broke my motor in.

 

[My1GLaser]

+2 for the motoman method. I broke 2 motors in over the last 4 years and had perfect compression at 100 miles! I ran leaner AFR & lower timing and 12-16 psi. I was running over 20 psi by 200 miles or less! Street driving in town varying rpms with a lot of engine braking! Keep it off the highway at the same rpms for extended time periods! (this thread will get merged btw)

 

[DSM1G90]

This is a good thread with some excellent facts to remember.

 

[billyt]

Good Thread!! Guys I'll be starting my engine tomorrow! wish me luck...Its my first full build...(taking everything by the book and dsmtuners along with some other feedbacks) its been almost a year between gathering parts, winter and now...