Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[90redtalontsi]

alright guys my build should be done here in the next few days pending if the wheather is nice enough for me to go out and work on the car. this is my first rebuild on my own car ive done friends cars but never had to break in my own car anyone have any tips on what to do i was told let it idle for about 20 min then change the oil then after that should i let it idle again for a while or should i drive it should i just go out and beat on it haha jk but anyway any tips or hints or anything would be greatly appreciated thanks guys and gals i know theres a few out there

 

[JusMX141]

Everyone has a different opinion of what to do here. This is my method:

- Fill the engine to the proper level with 20W non-detergent motor oil. Let engine idle until it's fully warmed up in two running sessions, about 20 minutes each followed by a complete cooldown.
- Drive the car for approximately 50 miles with little to no engine load. RPM's never exceed 3k, no lugging.
- Drain the break-in oil, replace the oil filter, and refill with 10W30 conventional oil of your choice- NO synthetics. Run this oil for 300 miles.
- Drain the 300-mile oil, replace the filter, refill again with 10W30 conventional. Run this oil for 1000 miles. Don't start horsing the engine hard until it's reached the 500+ mile mark.
- Drain the 1000-mile oil, replace the filter, refill again with 10W30 conventional. You may now run this oil to your regular change interval (2500-3000 miles).
- At this point, you may resume all normal oil changes and synthetic oil use if you desire.

It's always worked well for me!

 

[lowexpectations]

Everyone has a different opinion of what to do here. This is my method:

- Fill the engine to the proper level with 20W non-detergent motor oil. Let engine idle until it's fully warmed up in two running sessions, about 20 minutes each followed by a complete cooldown.
- Drive the car for approximately 50 miles with little to no engine load. RPM's never exceed 3k, no lugging.
- Drain the break-in oil, replace the oil filter, and refill with 10W30 conventional oil of your choice- NO synthetics. Run this oil for 300 miles.
- Drain the 300-mile oil, replace the filter, refill again with 10W30 conventional. Run this oil for 1000 miles. Don't start horsing the engine hard until it's reached the 500+ mile mark.
- Drain the 1000-mile oil, replace the filter, refill again with 10W30 conventional. You may now run this oil to your regular change interval (2500-3000 miles).
- At this point, you may resume all normal oil changes and synthetic oil use if you desire.

It's always worked well for me!

Agreed with the first part. Only thing I have done differently is after the 2 warm up sessions, I draing the oil and then drive it just like I plan on driving it in the future. The method above is probably nothing wrong with it but like he said everyone has their own opinions. The biggest thing is you really dont wan't to cruise at a steady throttle. Our rings are not as hard as rings in the past and dont take much time to seat.

Again this is just my way and everyone has their own opinions.

 

[toofast82]

Motoman- a lot of dsms have had good success with this
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[90redtalontsi]

so done cruise at a steady throttle how long or what millage wise can i do that becasue after its done in a few days ill do all of the above but i have to drive back to school a week or so later and its about 70 miles give or take about an 1 and a half drive and its about an hour highway all together would it be ok to drive that or should i wait

 

[lowexpectations]

It will be ok but don't just set the cruise and drive. What I would do on a road trip like that and with a new motor would be kind of like speed up slow down on the cruise. All you want to do is let the motor see some change in pressure(dont stay in vaccume all the time like crusing would).

 

[90redtalontsi]

ok cool so if i drive just kinda mess around on the highway a little bit not be stupid about it and drive with about 2 or 3 pounds of boost it should be good

 

[toofast82]

You want to vary the speeds as said and not just cruise. According to the link i posted, it says about 80% of ring seal occurs during the first 20miles where its crucial. It states to get on it in 2nd and 3rd and let it decelerate on its own!

 

[90redtalontsi]

could i do a 20 min drive back and forth on this road i live near or should i take it out like 5 to 10 mins at a time

 

[toofast82]

could i do a 20 min drive back and forth on this road i live near or should i take it out like 5 to 10 mins at a time

yeah just vary the speeds, dont cruise and get on it some!

 

[90redtalontsi]

ok cool and by "get on it" should i hit boost in second and third then let it slow down my boost right now is at 15 or should i only go half way

 

[nate379]

On a gasser..

Fire it up and let it run for 15-20 mins. I idle it long enough to set the timing and then bring it up to 1500-2000rpm and let it sit. Not sure on the overhead came engines, but on push rod engines you risk killing the cam if you let it just idle.

Change oil and filter. I use whatever oil it'll be running later, other than synthetic.

Run it 500 miles. Don't lug it.. moderate driving... no trailer towing, racing, etc.

Change oil and filter and start normal interval... 3000 miles or whatever.

Run it like you stole it.

Have put together many engines and never have had an issue doing it that way.

 

[JusMX141]

Not sure on the overhead came engines, but on push rod engines you risk killing the cam if you let it just idle.

By that I'm sure you mean pushrod engines with flat tappet lifters.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The newer pushrod engines using roller lifters will not have that problem.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The 4G63's rocker is fitted with a roller to protect the camshaft from wear.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[90redtalontsi]

so i can just let it idle i dont need to put it up to 1500 or 2500 since we have the rollers

 

[JusMX141]

As long as you're carrying some oil pressure at idle, you have nothing to fear.

 

[90redtalontsi]

ok sweet thanks man

on the stock gauge is there a certain place where the needle should be as far as oil pressure at idle

 

[JusMX141]

As long as the idiot light isn't on, you have enough oil pressure at idle.

 

[90redtalontsi]

idiot light haha.....thanks again man big help

 

[PIMking]

Congrats JUSMX for being promoted!

I would like to know how you break it in. Keep us up to date. Everything I have seen is been on personal preference. Some say take it easy and some say beat her. What ever your choice let us know and take some Compression numbers while your at it.

The reason why I ask because I'm going to be getting a new block here soon that I'm going to build a monster.

 

[90redtalontsi]

can do man ill either post it here or pm you with some numbers and im most likely going to let her idle for the 20 min then shut her off cool it down do the 20 min idle again cool it down again then drive her around for about 20 30 miles going threw 1st 2nd and 3rd then change the oil out and the filter out then change the oil again around 500 miles 1000 miles and 3000 miles and then just do a regular 4k intervlas with synthetic oil

 

[motomattxxx]

can do man ill either post it here or pm you with some numbers and im most likely going to let her idle for the 20 min then shut her off cool it down do the 20 min idle again cool it down again then drive her around for about 20 30 miles going threw 1st 2nd and 3rd then change the oil out and the filter out then change the oil again around 500 miles 1000 miles and 3000 miles and then just do a regular 4k intervlas with synthetic oil

Thats how its done RIGHT. Do it that way and enjoy a long engine life with no problems! I have done hundreds a year that way for years, never been a comeback yet (and I check leakdown after break-in, always been less than 5%)

 

[nate379]

Yup, though I just carry over that thought to any engine I work on... better to err on the safe side.

By that I'm sure you mean pushrod engines with flat tappet lifters.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The newer pushrod engines using roller lifters will not have that problem.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The 4G63's rocker is fitted with a roller to protect the camshaft from wear.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[bump]

Im at 400mi with motoman method. sounds freakin crazy but i had to try it. first started got oil pressure let it run on its own for 15 min to warm up. drove .5 mile easy. main road 1st g easy second 15 p.s.i to 5k then 3rd to 5k @ 15psi. then 3rd from 5k let the engine slow through the gears and repeated for 20 miles, changed oil. the 400 miles has been around town. puffs a little blue between shifts? besides that the thing is a rocket i always let it warm up and cool down very important. Also changed oil @ 20 miles shavings from honing very tiny no slivers. second oil change @ 400 miles still very clean no shavings. i didn't bore the cylinders i scoped them they were off .001 of all 20 readings. in the rebuild is a crank, bearings, new stock rings, reman head. this is my journey so far i will report if it blows up from this break in method.

 

[DSMaster08]

I was wondering i just rebuilt my motor and put a bigger turbo and other supporting mods on. My question is how do i break it in and tune it at the same without damaging any of the internals.

 

[dsm's can fly]

it depends on what you are tunning with and what all you changed if you have a aem then i would imagine you could set low timming and auto tune the a/f if you have a air flow meter still and you just changed injectors that is all you will have to calibrate before running it as for the break in i like the motoman break in here is a good link good luck Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power