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ECUflash CeddyMod v1 (EcuFlash)

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I set up the nlts, it works great but it throws code p1600 and evoscan says it's an ecu comunication issue not a voltage issue. My ecu was using that pin for a gnd so at idle I can push the clutch pedal in 1/2 inch and my idle goes up 100 or so rpm. Should I add another ecu gnd? btw it's not even close to the friction point yet at 1/2" in. so it's not the drag rotating stuff.

"p1600 battery voltage low" u can disable this code from
ecu periphery3 bits (2a2) +0
 
Pin #91 is the Park/Neutral input to the ECU, which is grounded on MT cars, but your ECU isn't really using it as a ground. Your main grounds come in on pins 13 & 26. I did have one customer one time who had a bad ground issue on pin 13 & 26 caused by the ground strap in the ECU harness getting cut by the chassis when he removed the ECU:
After several weeks of chasing a problem which first occurred shortly after installing the 95 eprom ecu. with the chip, I`m glad to say that the problem is solved. After several posts, emails, even phone conversations with Jeff, not to mention countless hours of tracing wiring, checking sensors, ohm testing components, etc, the problem was, an until now, un-touched FACTORY ground wiring harness issue about 30 inches up the main ecu. harness, under the metal structural dash support. After pulling all the wiring out of the split loom, & following it back, & up to where the ground wires break out of the harness, & converge to a main ring terminal lug where they get bolted to a main dash support for a sensor ground, I found a section of 12 guage black ground wire, that had chafed against a tie down, inside the loom, reducing a 12 guage main ground wire down to a single strand of connectivity. Just enough ground path to get correct & functional data during scanning for values with a scanner (logger), however, not enough connectivity to allow the car to run at all, due to lack of good sensor ground during the extra current draw through the affected ground path. So, all you 2G guys whom have or are about to remove your ecu, BEWARE! This happened to me ONLY after moving the wiring at the ecu. connections, so be cautious not to disturb this ground, or you`ll have problems!
 
I set up the nlts, it works great but it throws code p1600 and evoscan says it's an ecu comunication issue not a voltage issue. My ecu was using that pin for a gnd so at idle I can push the clutch pedal in 1/2 inch and my idle goes up 100 or so rpm. Should I add another ecu gnd? btw it's not even close to the friction point yet at 1/2" in. so it's not the drag rotating stuff.

If you notice there are two sets of many maps.
The Automatics use these, one set for 1,2,3,D and the other set for P,N.

Using the Park/Neutral Pin for NLTS, makes it switch maps when you press the clutch.

That is why your Idle changes when you press the clutch in, its switching to the second Idle Table with a higher idle rpm.

Options:
You can turn Map Select on, and it will only use one set of maps.

You can make maps 1 and 2 the same.

Or you can use this to your advantage. Like having a higher idle with the clutch in so you won't stall pulling out with a lightened flywheel. Or editing the fuel and timing maps for better recovery between shifts.
 
"p1600 battery voltage low" u can disable this code from
ecu periphery3 bits (2a2) +0

The number on that line is 0087 just like all of them under it. What do I put there if I want to kill that P1600 code? It only started when I started using the nlts but I turned it off and the code still returns.

BTW thanks for the idle info Ceddy. I have been fighting a horrible idle since I put the cams in and can never get it consistant.
 
I've added a Blobbits List for Perphery3 in my next release. It gets rid of a few more CELs.

For now you can change 87 -> 86 and it will turn off P1600.
 
The number on that line is 0087 just like all of them under it. What do I put there if I want to kill that P1600 code? It only started when I started using the nlts but I turned it off and the code still returns.

BTW thanks for the idle info Ceddy. I have been fighting a horrible idle since I put the cams in and can never get it consistant.

Consider adding some timing to your car from 0-30 load up to 1000rpm. I use 7* and it helped my idle even on stock cams. The evo guys say it helps quite a bit with larger cams.
 
Consider adding some timing to your car from 0-30 load up to 1000rpm. I use 7* and it helped my idle even on stock cams. The evo guys say it helps quite a bit with larger cams.

That was one of the first things I did after installing the cams. I ended up doing some karate stuff with idle timing where it cranks @5* 500rpm@12* 750rpm@8* and 1krpm@5* so as the IM heat soaks and tries to idle up the timing helps keep it in check. I also added 5* to almost the whole map for more off boost power cause our stock timing curve makes our cars turds. The idle seems to be improving as I drive it more, seems like maybe a long relearn procedure or something.
 
Any ideas on how to get the ECU to control boost? I have my 99 GSX I can test things out on if you need people to help test things.
 
Any ideas on how to get the ECU to control boost? I have my 99 GSX I can test things out on if you need people to help test things.

I've been working on Boost Control, but it will be a while, its a pretty big project.

How I have things now it will include:

Boost by Gear and RPM - 3d Map

Boost by TPS - Low boost for cruising. Make power output linear with TPS, instead of On/Off. And stop part throttle boost, surge/goofyness.

Boost Reduction on Knock - Safety, reduces max boost if knocking.

IAT Compensation - So you don't over boost in cold weather.



Version 1.9 is done, out for testing, should be released soon.

Boost Control will be in version 2.0.
 
The flash you gave me the other night cleared up my issues and I did my 1st 22-23psi run on my rebuilt motor tonight and it pulled like a rocket. I got the knocked light at 23psi at above 4400rpms and the boosted gauge just moved to bout 5 as you planned. The 2nd time I did a pull not light til I got off it. Then no more light after that it worked great. I believe you gave me 1.9.

I don't know if its my car or parts setup or ecu but my car acts like my MAF sensor is unplugged after I 1st turn it on and try to do more then back out the driveway. Once I hit the road it nucks and bucks Wideband reads (---) and it slowly kicks in and runs fine. Any reasons for this you may see? Do I have to wait for it to warm up? Like starting it and pulling out it hates it, idle for 5mins its fine.

Still can't figure out why I can't log w/Evoscan. Wishing I didn't sell my PocketLogger already.
 
Could the stock Fuel Pressure Solenoid be used for boost control ?

You need a 3-Port Solenoid, which I believe the FPS is.

On EvoM they did a big study on solenoid latency and performance.
They found the GM 3-Port to have the best control.

I think the stock DSM 3-Port should perform good enough, some Evo guys have started using the stock Evo EGR with good results. But a GM 3-Port is the ideal setup.
 
You need a 3-Port Solenoid, which I believe the FPS is.

On EvoM they did a big study on solenoid latency and performance.
They found the GM 3-Port to have the best control.

I think the stock DSM 3-Port should perform good enough, some Evo guys have started using the stock Evo EGR with good results. But a GM 3-Port is the ideal setup.

HOW TO - Control boost using ECUFLash and 3 port GM boost solenoid - Page 3 - evolutionm.net

Here is the thread I found. Some intersting stuff... I'll probably be trying this when the Ceddymods have the boost feature.

A flashed ecu can handle 1600cc injectors as well as just about anything out there. If you are using terrible injectors with stupid dead times you'll have some trouble with idle but no more so than with link.

If you are running e85 through those injectors it should be a walk in the park.

Wouldn't you still need an Injector Driver to help control injectors of that size?
 
A flashed ecu can handle 1600cc injectors as well as just about anything out there. If you are using terrible injectors with stupid dead times you'll have some trouble with idle but no more so than with link.

If you are running e85 through those injectors it should be a walk in the park.


Wouldn't you still need an Injector Driver to help control injectors of that size?

No driver is required for most injectors.

With very large injectors the pulse width(open time) at idle is very small.
Because of this it is important to get a matching set of quality injectors.

Injector Dynamics matches there injector by deadtime and flow rate, a few Evo guys are running their 2000cc injectors with success.

Fuel Injector Clinic only matches by flow rate, I know of a few people who had idle problems and and returned them for a new set and they worked fine. This is probably because the deadtimes didn't match.

I'm kind of wary of the BlueMax injectors because some of them require a driver, but others don't. They don't explain why.

If a driver adds another $240 to the price, I would just pay extra for an injector that doesn't require a driver.


What ever you do stay away from old school 1600cc, they are really hard to tune. And if you can get by with something smaller go with them. My 1150cc ran perfect with the standard settings and required no tuning.
 
If a driver adds another $240 to the price, I would just pay extra for an injector that doesn't require a driver.


What ever you do stay away from old school 1600cc, they are really hard to tune. And if you can get by with something smaller go with them. My 1150cc ran perfect with the standard settings and required no tuning.

I didn't know this. Thanks for the info. I bought a set of 1600 Bosch injectors a couple years ago for my Talon and was told I'd need a driver. That Talon has an AEM EMS and is still not back together...
 
Maybe I missed something and didn't do it right. I went to my car, hooked up my 2.0 cable and switched the key to the ON position. I selected the READ funtion on ECU Flash and picked 1999-2001 2nd Gen/EVO6.5 MH7203F. Then I got an error saying it could not red the file. What did I do wrong? Thanks.
 
Maybe I missed something and didn't do it right. I went to my car, hooked up my 2.0 cable and switched the key to the ON position. I selected the READ funtion on ECU Flash and picked 1999-2001 2nd Gen/EVO6.5 MH7203F. Then I got an error saying it could not red the file. What did I do wrong? Thanks.

You need to pick, "1996-2001 Mitsu 2nd Gen/Evo5-6".

If people have problems with EcuFlash, its best to copy and paste the Log to your post. Makes it easier for people to help you.
 
You need to pick, "1996-2001 Mitsu 2nd Gen/Evo5-6".

If people have problems with EcuFlash, its best to copy and paste the Log to your post. Makes it easier for people to help you.

The 1996-2001 didn't work either.

[14:39:39.647] EcuFlash Version 1.42.2595
[14:39:39.647] OS Version Windows Vista
[14:39:39.647] Qt Version 4.5.0
[14:39:39.664] 56 memory models read.
[14:39:39.665] scanning for metadata models in C:/Program Files/OpenECU/EcuFlash/rommetadata
[14:39:46.187] 344 ROM metadata models scanned.
[14:39:46.187] checksum module "subarudbw" loaded.
[14:39:46.187] checksum module "mitsucan" loaded.
[14:39:46.187] flashing tool "wrx02" loaded.
[14:39:46.188] flashing tool "wrx04" loaded.
[14:39:46.188] flashing tool "sti04" loaded.
[14:39:46.188] flashing tool "sti05" loaded.
[14:39:46.188] flashing tool "mitsukernel" loaded.
[14:39:46.188] flashing tool "mitsukernelocp" loaded.
[14:39:46.188] flashing tool "mitsubootloader" loaded.
[14:39:46.189] flashing tool "shbootmode" loaded.
[14:39:46.240] flashing tool "shaudmode" loaded.
[14:39:46.241] flashing tool "subarucan" loaded.
[14:39:46.241] flashing tool "mitsucan" loaded.
[14:39:58.176] J2534 API Version: 04.04
[14:39:58.176] J2534 DLL Version: 0.50.2598 Jun 26 2009 15:02:29
[14:39:58.177] Device Firmware Version: 1.10.2658
[14:40:01.360] sending init sequence 2
[14:40:03.370] interface close
[14:40:20.271] J2534 API Version: 04.04
[14:40:20.271] J2534 DLL Version: 0.50.2598 Jun 26 2009 15:02:29
[14:40:20.271] Device Firmware Version: 1.10.2658
[14:40:22.910] sending init sequence 2
[14:40:24.915] interface close



Is that what I need to include? Thanks.
 
Need to have the Flash Connector plugged in.
 
I noticed when I have map switching off I run on map set 1 but when I turn it on and set it to map set 1 it seems to run on set 2. This is the timing i'm talking about.
 
I noticed when I have map switching off I run on map set 1 but when I turn it on and set it to map set 1 it seems to run on set 2. This is the timing i'm talking about.

Are you setting the "Maps Selected" to 0 or to 1?
0 = Map 1
1 = Map 2
 
In the periphery bits there is an option to disable closed loop operation. What are the advantages/disadvantages to running open loop all the time?

In open loop mode won't the car just run to the specified fuel & timing maps all the time? I ask because my car was running rich (11.2 afr at cruise) then gave me the P0136 CEL. Since my rear O2 was shot, I forced the car to run open loop and now my cruise conditions are exactly 14.7 as specified in the fuel maps.

I would just like to know if this will cause any issues down the road.
 
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