The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Build advice.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

zachyd23

10+ Year Contributor
127
0
Nov 11, 2011
Bark River, Michigan
Planning on doing some performance mods for my 92 talon TSI AWD (4g63). I currently have an EVO 3 16 g turbo set at 14 psi with a mbc running an HKS BOV, ported o2 housing and ported manifold, 2 and 3/4 inch exhaust with downpipe, different ECU, and manual 450 cc injectors; also a boost gauge set up. In the near future i would like to get a FMIC, 650 cc injectors with a Walbro 195cc or 255 cc fuel pump, also a chipped ECU. Then later on get it tuned with 17-20 psi. Does this sound good for my car ( stock internals and transmission ) or no? thanks for the advice i appreciate it! :hmm:
 
Thanks i definitely will! What kind of parts do you offer for my 92?

Basically anything you need I have..

StrictlyImportMotorsports.com

If you need anything you don't see just call or Pm me My pricing is hard to beat. :thumb:
 
From experience, i'd do dsmlink v3 w/ a wideband FIRST. Tuning can maximize your setup safely and possibly give you a heads up on something catastrohic. If you start upgrading other areas, you'll be tempted to run the car harder w/o tuning because you didn't get it done 1st. I said i was speaking from experience, i.e., my mistakes...
 
Thanks i definitely will! What kind of parts do you offer for my 92?



If you look at my first post, thats what i'm currently running. I haven't bought any of the parts i've listed yet, waiting to make some money.

Clip to- So 750's would work if i want to run 15 psi or 20 psi as long as i get a different fpr and pump?

Get a wideband, boost gauge, 750cc should be fine for a 16g.My friend is running 1000cc injectors at 20psi on a 16g with 54% injector duty cycle so up to you.A 255 fuel pump is good and a fuel pressure regulator for security.Check with SIM sure they got good prices and what to run on a 1g.I only driven 2g's so im sure theres some differences...small differences.
 
If i get the parts before i get a v3 controller, i wont run it. Ill just get all the parts installed then set up the controller because i definitely don't want to screw anything up. And i'm sorry but what is wideband again?

And duty cycle means what?
 
A wide band is a gauge that reads your air fuel ratio, showing if your running to lean or to rich. I would recommend the aem eugo wideband. AEM Wideband O2 Air/Fuel UEGO Gauge AEM Part# 30-4100
You probably looking for 14:7 a/f ratio cruising and 11:1 under boost.You don't want to run too lean thats how you damage your motor, also running to rich isnt good for your motor too.I would really just do all maintenance first and get ecmlink first and dial in your setup.Then adding bigger injectors you can tune to those injectors and go more boost, also adding a fuel pump when you upgrade injectors.Injector duty cycle is like the percentage your injectors are running at.So if its a high duty cycle and you want to keep it bellow 80%, it would be like running with your last breath in a marathon.So the lower the idc % the more room you have for fuel the injectors can put out and there not running max all the time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is great info for some1 new to dsm. I wish i had this when i got started...

It's a great resource even for those have been around too. It's awesome that you guys are so helpful.
 
This is great info for some1 new to dsm. I wish i had this when i got started...

It's a great resource even for those have been around too. It's awesome that you guys are so helpful.

Every post is good info, what you do with it is up to you.I am always down to give people my basic info that I know or what I can concour.I try to keep people's mind set simple.You can spend a couple grand and get a 16g and make 300hp and that is more then alot for most people, they just all try to think making 500 is where its at.But anything else is another route.I always try mind set of hey you can spend couple houndred dollars and have a nice car that you can drive and enjoy, or spend thousands of dollars and get a race car.That's all the real basics to it. mantain your car is the basics and everything else is a bonus.Sometimes people just need to talk to someone to give them a peace of mind.:thumb:
 
O an air/fuel ratio! My friend has one for me but we have no clue how to hook it up. He said something about it having to be hooked to the o2 sensor or something? :hmm:
 
Yep, so on your exhaust I would recommend you get a aftermarket downpipe that's 2.5 is good size you will need it to have or weld a bung to screw in your wideband sensor to read.
 
There is no need for 1000cc injectors on a 16g when trying to get 300whp unless running E-85. Look into Denso 660's or maybe something smaller. Anything bigger than that just gauruntee's you have to buy Link, which isn't needed either for your hp goals. At that point it's just a very expensive toy. :thumb:
 
There is no need for 1000cc injectors on a 16g when trying to get 300whp unless running E-85. Look into Denso 660's or maybe something smaller. Anything bigger than that just gauruntee's you have to buy Link, which isn't needed either for your hp goals. At that point it's just a very expensive toy. :thumb:

True but if he runs dsmlink it would be a good future proof, I run 1000cc with no issues.:thumb:
 
Just wanna say, maybe I didn't post topic but quite helpful information. I just got a 95 AWD Talon, so looking at options also. Though I am starting from scratch, bone stock car.
 
Yep, so on your exhaust I would recommend you get a aftermarket downpipe that's 2.5 is good size you will need it to have or weld a bung to screw in your wideband sensor to read.
I know it has a downpipe on it already, at least 2.5 inches mabey 3. And what do you mean weld a bung to screw in wideband sensor?
 
I think some people are confused at some of your posts, so I'll attempt to clear things up.

1) ECMlink is your tuning solution, it seems (just what it sounds like) you think you can take your car into a tune shop and they will just tune it on the spot. This isn't the case, UNLESS, you have a tuner (IE ECMlink, SAFC, Jackal, AEM EMS, etc). You need one of these in order to actually tune the car, a tune shop can't just plug into your factory ecu and tune the car without one of these tuners. You CAN have a chip made, like you were saying for the mods you have done, however, in my opinion it's a waste of time. The "chip" tunes are cookie cutter tunes, not the most ideal for anyone planning on a real setup. Plus last I looked average price is $100+, that's 1/4 the cost to V3 lite, and you'll have a hard time selling the chip later on as people don't have the exact setup as yourself.

2) Wideband- It seems your friend has a narrowband, it's a guage that splices into your factory o2 sensor and is essentially 100% useless to anything other than a nice light show. Narrowband sensors are old, outdated tuning technology and I'd highly suggest against your friends (assuming that's what his is). A wideband incorporates a whole new o2 sensor and is a much better sensor for tuning (and required) properly. Most common ones on the market are the AEM EUGO, and Innovate MTX-L (my personal preference). These run ~$190-200 and are just as important, if not more than ecmlink.

3)Wally- As stated you can use the 255, however, it's not recommended until you get an adjustable FPR. The stock FPR can't keep up with how well the 255 pumps and generally will overrun (however, some people have gotten away with it). Most common brands for AFPR are the Aeromotive (personal preference) AEM AFPR, Fuel lab, as well as a few other brands.

4)Injectors- With ECMlink, the bigger the injectors the better really. If you have big power goals later on down the road then get the big injectors now. ECMlink can compensate for them, so it's a win-win situation. If you only plan on pushing the 16g and not much more you can get by with anything 1000cc and under really.

5)Build path- As far as starting a build, the most important thing you can do is maintenence. You could have $10k in parts and have it all ruined because your old timing belt snapped, or used timing belt tensioner failed. Start out getting everything done, TIMING especially, make sure the fluids are all changed, fuel filter, gaskets are all good. Leaks of any kind are going to hurt you no matter the size. Make sure your alternator is in good condition, accessory belts are all fresh etc.

6)Internals- The factory internals have been proven to make some BIG power. The key to this is in the tune. An average DSM can handle 4-500hp all day long on stock internals assuming the engine is up to par and the tune is great. They've been pushed over that power level too, but right now that shouldn't matter for you.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Any I listed. Just make sure it's a 1:1 rising AFPR. Like I said, my personal choice is the Aeromotive, but the fuel lab/AEM units are both 2nd options I looked into. You can find them in the classified section for $100-150 with an install kit. I paid $110 shipped for my aeromotive and the install kit with it.
 
Any I listed. Just make sure it's a 1:1 rising AFPR. Like I said, my personal choice is the Aeromotive, but the fuel lab/AEM units are both 2nd options I looked into. You can find them in the classified section for $100-150 with an install kit. I paid $110 shipped for my aeromotive and the install kit with it.
O I see. What do you have done to yours and how many psi are you currently running?
 
You wanna use a wideband not a narrowband gauge.Also if you get a fuel pressure regulator you will just want to set it to base fuel pressure for a 1g.You will get the gauge the pressure along with the unit.I like the fuel lab ones.
 
O I see. What do you have done to yours and how many psi are you currently running?
Small 16g and supporting mods. My personal DSM is down right now due to an oil pump failure, but I was running 14psi.
Our other 1g's are running an Aeromotive AFPR set at 43.5psi for base fuel pressure and an evo3 16g with supporting mods running 16-18psi. Our third 1g is down currently as well getting a full rebuild.

You wanna use a wideband not a narrowband gauge.Also if you get a fuel pressure regulator you will just want to set it to base fuel pressure for a 1g.You will get the gauge the pressure along with the unit.I like the fuel lab ones.

I'd personally set the fuel pressure to the stock 2g pressure (43.5psi) as it essentially "extends" the stock 450cc injectors, so he'll have a less likely chance of overboosting and going lean.
 
I know it has a downpipe on it already, at least 2.5 inches mabey 3. And what do you mean weld a bung to screw in wideband sensor?

A wideband o2 sensor is a completely seperate sensor from the factory o2 sensors. This requires a hole to be drilled into the exhaust at a certain point and a bung to be welded onto the exhaust pipe for the new o2 sensor to be installed. When you purchase a new wideband it should come with instructions on position and angle of the bung. The wideband gauge reads this sensor and it's much more accurate than running a narrowband sensor. Here's a pic of a wideband o2 sensor and bung installed onto the exhaust. Not the greatest weld job since I was still a noob at pipe welding when I did this, but it gives you an idea.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I personally use a Aeromotive 13109 and I love it. Make sure to get an install kit along with the AFPR is since the stock FPR will need to be removed and you'll need a fitting to replace it.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
It's always a smart decision to get a fpr, the only reason I don't have one I don't need it.It is different for everyones car, not the safest way to run but works for me.
 
Umm..LOL I just don't run one.Drives just fine on stock fpr, but like I said not always the ideal thing to do for everyone.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top