Build advice.

[zachyd23]

Planning on doing some performance mods for my 92 talon TSI AWD (4g63). I currently have an EVO 3 16 g turbo set at 14 psi with a mbc running an HKS BOV, ported o2 housing and ported manifold, 2 and 3/4 inch exhaust with downpipe, different ECU, and manual 450 cc injectors; also a boost gauge set up. In the near future i would like to get a FMIC, 650 cc injectors with a Walbro 195cc or 255 cc fuel pump, also a chipped ECU. Then later on get it tuned with 17-20 psi. Does this sound good for my car ( stock internals and transmission ) or no? thanks for the advice i appreciate it!

 

[lancedsm]

Not really on the subject but my car blown the stock head gasket so I bought arp head studs and cosmetic head gasket put it back together and stared it up and number 4 cycilnder had 30 pounds of compression so I tore It back down and number piston ring lands were crust.well what im getting at is I was mad that that 100$ head gasket was used one time Just had to get that off my chest

 

[clipto]

I sell oem headgaskets for $50 if you need one.Anytime youblow your headgasket would be a good time to check out your motor.Sorry to hear that hope get it running.

 

[lancedsm]

Oh it's running again I rebuild the engine.I'm using cosmetic head again but I'm pretty much using the same setup where talking on this post but im going to switch over to e85 this winter. What would be a good injetor size for e85?

 

[clipto]

Just get 1000cc injectors.Do you have ecmlink?You will need it.

 

[lancedsm]

Sending my ecu off next week to get socket and link put in it


yeah I was debating about 750 or 1000cc i guess im going with the 1000cc.

 

[clipto]

Well you have to remember when using E85 you injectors will downgrade themselfs.So 1000cc injectors would equal about 750cc injectors.Easier and cheaper to just get 1000cc and not worry to upgrade later.They run perfect with link.I run FIC 1050cc there awsome.

 

[zachyd23]

Also how would stock 6 bolt head bolts be better then arp?

 

[clipto]

Also how would stock 6 bolt head bolts be better then arp?

Eatherway just grab the arp headstuds.Don't get me wrong I love 6 bolts but would still just get arp head studs.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

The stock 6 bolt head bolts are already 12mm and pretty stout, if that is what he meant.

However I do not see where upgrading to the Standard ARPs or L19s could do anything but provide insurance.

Your first modification should be to get a Wideband UEGO from a group like PLX, AEM or Zeitronix. Take the bung and cap that comes with the kit to an exhaust shop and have it welded on, then go home and install the UEGO kit.

If you do decide to get ECMLink V3, you will be doing yourself a favor by spending more time on your posts (grammar/spelling) and reading the wiki pages before posting new threads. Or you will be jumped on by the veteran members there. It does seem that you have much reading and learning ahead of you, no offense. We all start somewhere. But there are considerably higher expectations over there.

Some are less forgiving than others of course, but that seems to be the biggest surprise for folks who have been on Tuners for a couple years and then hop on the Link forums.

I personally feel that a UEGO and Link are the two first and best modifications anyone can make to their DSM.

Then take some time and lay out what goals you have for both the short and long term. Will you be stepping up to a bigger setup in the future? Will you be using E85/98? Will you be using lead or oxygenated fuels?

Once that is decided you can lay-out your plans for a fuel system. I am of the opinion that if you have intentions on going bigger, save yourself the money and design a fuel system that can handle your future intentions the first time.

Get yourself a 255HP or an Aeromotive 342, rewire with fatter gauge cable, some injectors and replace the stock banjo bolt fitting and line the run between the filter and the rail. Get an AN adapter for the rail, say -6AN or -8 and get a fitting with 1/8NPT to mount a gauge on so you can see what your actual fuel pressure is with the new system.

In the event you are over running the stock FPR, switching to an adjustable like an Aeromotive 1:1 AFPR is as simple as finding a post-TB vac/boost source, getting another AN rail adapter for the Return side (Jay Racing carries these IIRC..) run a hose to the AFPR, and then from the other port on the AFPR just slip a -6AN hose over the stock return line and clamping it down.

 

[zachyd23]

The stock 6 bolt head bolts are already 12mm and pretty stout, if that is what he meant.

However I do not see where upgrading to the Standard ARPs or L19s could do anything but provide insurance.

Your first modification should be to get a Wideband UEGO from a group like PLX, AEM or Zeitronix. Take the bung and cap that comes with the kit to an exhaust shop and have it welded on, then go home and install the UEGO kit.

If you do decide to get ECMLink V3, you will be doing yourself a favor by spending more time on your posts (grammar/spelling) and reading the wiki pages before posting new threads. Or you will be jumped on by the veteran members there. It does seem that you have much reading and learning ahead of you, no offense. We all start somewhere. But there are considerably higher expectations over there.

Some are less forgiving than others of course, but that seems to be the biggest surprise for folks who have been on Tuners for a couple years and then hop on the Link forums.

I personally feel that a UEGO and Link are the two first and best modifications anyone can make to their DSM.

Then take some time and lay out what goals you have for both the short and long term. Will you be stepping up to a bigger setup in the future? Will you be using E85/98? Will you be using lead or oxygenated fuels?

Once that is decided you can lay-out your plans for a fuel system. I am of the opinion that if you have intentions on going bigger, save yourself the money and design a fuel system that can handle your future intentions the first time.

Get yourself a 255HP or an Aeromotive 342, rewire with fatter gauge cable, some injectors and replace the stock banjo bolt fitting and line the run between the filter and the rail. Get an AN adapter for the rail, say -6AN or -8 and get a fitting with 1/8NPT to mount a gauge on so you can see what your actual fuel pressure is with the new system.

In the event you are over running the stock FPR, switching to an adjustable like an Aeromotive 1:1 AFPR is as simple as finding a post-TB vac/boost source, getting another AN rail adapter for the Return side (Jay Racing carries these IIRC..) run a hose to the AFPR, and then from the other port on the AFPR just slip a -6AN hose over the stock return line and clamping it down.

I'm trying to keep my grammar the best I possibly can; sorry if i'm making some mistakes. Anyways, i'm planning on running 91 octane ( or if 93 is available) , also I don't think I will need a Walbro 255 fuel pump, because I will then need to get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I'm thinking of either getting 650 or 750 cc injectors, Walbro 190 fuel pump with rewire kit, front mount intercooler, also the v3 lite controller hopefully for my birthday. Also if I need a wideband I guess I could do that. But besides getting this done in the future and setting my boost to around 18 psi, there are no future plans to upgrade anymore.

 

[LandoAWD]

However I do not see where upgrading to the Standard ARPs or L19s could do anything but provide insurance.

There are stress/real world tests floating around. The 6-bolt ARPs are generally regarded as not worth it.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

There are stress/real world tests floating around. The 6-bolt ARPs are generally regarded as not worth it.

Link(s) please? I have talked to Carlos @ ARP about this and he disputes that. I am open to evidence of course.

I'm trying to keep my grammar the best I possibly can; sorry if i'm making some mistakes. Anyways, i'm planning on running 91 octane ( or if 93 is available) , also I don't think I will need a Walbro 255 fuel pump, because I will then need to get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. I'm thinking of either getting 650 or 750 cc injectors, Walbro 190 fuel pump with rewire kit, front mount intercooler, also the v3 lite controller hopefully for my birthday. Also if I need a wideband I guess I could do that. But besides getting this done in the future and setting my boost to around 18 psi, there are no future plans to upgrade anymore.

There's no "if" about it, you need the Wideband if you plan on doing anything with Link.

The 190 would work with your goals. If you don't plan to push more than 18-20psi on a 16G stick with the 650's. You know you are going to want to turn it up in the future though once you get Link and see the flexibility and room for growth it provides.

You should consider buying the bigger pump the first time.

 

[zachyd23]

If I could get a really nice deal on a 255 I would definitely consider it. Also I would need to find a cheaper fpr.

 

[Ralliart567]

you can find a 255 pump for like 85$ buck very affordable

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

It's not guaranteed that you will overrun the FPR, it is a possibility however. I personally know two people who just upgraded the pump and injectors.

Even then, you could probably find one used around here.

 

[hypergenesis]

Basically after you learn the basics everything else to tuning is an elaboration on evwhat you learned to set it up normally


On a quick cruise tune with some Maf comp from dsmlink and I saved 3 more MPG and way better response from cruise to wot.

The amount of fine tuning is amazing for the price plus not many people outside of the dsm community tune their own cars. Most of the people in my area are completely tripped out when I pull out a laptop and just do simple stuff like idle and fans its pretty fun Haha.

 

[zachyd23]

It's not guaranteed that you will overrun the FPR, it is a possibility however. I personally know two people who just upgraded the pump and injectors.

Even then, you could probably find one used around here.

Yea I hope I can! Under 200$ for both would be very nice. Also cheaper injectors, brand new are way too much!

Basically after you learn the basics everything else to tuning is an elaboration on evwhat you learned to set it up normally


On a quick cruise tune with some Maf comp from dsmlink and I saved 3 more MPG and way better response from cruise to wot.

The amount of fine tuning is amazing for the price plus not many people outside of the dsm community tune their own cars. Most of the people in my area are completely tripped out when I pull out a laptop and just do simple stuff like idle and fans its pretty fun Haha.

Haha I would love to be able to do that! Mabey when I get it you could make me some videos on how to do those things if I haven't found out how.

Also how many mpg's were you getting?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

ECMTuning provides a wiki and tutorials for you to learn from. Additionally once you have access to the forums, you should use and abuse the search feature. Their is a treasure trove of information there, take advantage of it before you create new threads.

 

[zachyd23]

I know i've seen 6 on their website, there's more though?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

start [ECMTuning - wiki]

Memorize everything in here.

 

[zachyd23]

I will. How many mpg's were you getting?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

All my DSMs to this point have averaged around 25mpg combined. But it should be noted I never built them or tuned them with fuel economy as a priority. Thats what my Honda DD is for, and even that is getting some turbo love soon.

I don't remember specifically what I was getting on my last S16G car, which was a Laser I rebuilt and sold a few months ago. I could probably look for some receipts as I usually write down what was on the trip meter for my records.

On my last setup in the newer Eclipse, which is currently cammed (280/274) but at the time had only a 59mm Borg Warner turbo... combined driving with no tuning pulls and just commuting I was seeing 29mpg on my pump gas tune.

I was also running 15.2:1AFR with as much spark advance as possible (37-38* in some cells) under cruise conditions where I could get away with it.

On E85 I was seeing 24mpg average.

Obviously any excessive boosting, WOT or tuning pulls will reduce that to gallons per mile in a hurry. Especially now that I have a 71mm turbo.

I found that the bigger the turbo, the better my mileage has been, because I drive like a grandma most of the time so I never end up building much boost and effectively I'm driving a cammed NA 2.0

 

[zachyd23]

Wow that's awesome! How do you like that bigger turbo over say an Evo 3 16g?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Which? The E316G and the HX52?

They are tough to compare. The powerband is completely different. They completely change the nature of the car, and in the end it comes down to what you want to do with it and how you like to drive.

The E316G has a 48mm/68mm compressor, and the Pro52 is 71mm/99mm

The closest big turbo I can compare to a 16G would have to be the 59mm/80 BorgWarner in a bolt-on housing. Started to spool only a little later than the 16G, maybe 700-800rpm more lag in 2nd and 3rd gear. But capable of 650whp if you step up to the T3 housings.

 

[zachyd23]

Yea, what are your methods of getting rid of turbo lag? Fmic?