Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[jesse12345]

Been running a glowshift and I've had zero issues. I wonder how many people run the glowshift? The only thing I hate a out it is the absolute cluster f of wires that all run to it.

 

[enriquez2000]

Been running a glowshift and I've had zero issues. I wonder how many people run the glowshift? The only thing I hate a out it is the absolute cluster f of wires that all run to it.

Glowshift/prosport same company! Has worked better than anything else I have.

My procharged 350z is all glowshift gauges. Works with haltech ecu perfectly as well

 

[chrisman287]

No.

You should even with the series X.

Somewhere in this forum I talked about how daily driving with my innovate mtxl killed sensors every 3 days. I dont know why everyone thinks they are the bees knees but I switched to cheapy prosport and never had another issue.

Weird. Mine has been good so far. It's an inch away from the turbo and is simulating the front O2 but I do have it wired up using a relay it pulls power from the fuse box and I have a good ground on it.

 

[MindBlowin03]

Most likely the newer style 4.9 sensor going out. They are quicker reading than the old 4.2 sensor but their lifespan is crap and are really hit or miss in my experience.

I'm not 100% on this but I think all widebands use the 4.9 sensor nowadays.

 

[enriquez2000]

You should even with the series X.

Weird. Mine has been good so far. It's an inch away from the turbo and is simulating the front O2 but I do have it wired up using a relay it pulls power from the fuse box and I have a good ground on it.

I moved mine to 3 different spots chasing the issue. If it works for you then youre one of the lucky!

 

[Anfurnyy]

I moved mine to 3 different spots chasing the issue. If it works for you then youre one of the lucky!

Most of the reason people kill sensors is because they turn the sensor on right away and the sensor heats and then gets blasted by cold air from the engine.

IIRC link has an option for delaying the sensor startup which is what everyone should do. I've been running the same 4.9 sensor for the last 2 years with literally issues. Stock front O2 sensor location too.

 

[jesse12345]

Glowshift/prosport same company! Has worked better than anything else I have.

My procharged 350z is all glowshift gauges. Works with haltech ecu perfectly as well

Oh sweet I did not know that. All my gauges are glowshift and they have worked great. I just took kind of a gamble on them. I like how you can change the color to what you want.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Most of the reason people kill sensors is because they turn the sensor on right away and the sensor heats and then gets blasted by cold air from the engine.

IIRC link has an option for delaying the sensor startup which is what everyone should do. I've been running the same 4.9 sensor for the last 2 years with literally issues. Stock front O2 sensor location too.

Link as in LinkECU or ECMLink? I'm amazed no one has been sued about that yet.


But, I wonder if that's why Chrisman mentioned the relay. Hook power to the relay and have the relay triggered by maybe a switch or a timer with ECMLink powering the relay so it doesn't turn on power to the gauge until like 30 seconds or etc? You don't really need a wideband while the car is warming up.


For what it's worth, the Innovate wideband can be seen in my logs how long it took to "warm up" the sensor, so I think even innovate tried to program that feature into their wideband and it just didn't work. The 12v power I have hooked up to all my gauges cuts power while cranking, so it can't be warmed up before the engine is running.



Also: Why would a car smoke after sitting for awhile? Like overnight. Valve stem seals?

 

[Anfurnyy]

Link as in LinkECU or ECMLink? I'm amazed no one has been sued about that yet.

Yeah ECM Link. It's called thermal shock.

Why Bosch LSU wide-band air/fuel ratio (or Lambda) sensors fail so often in aftermarket performance applications - NZEFI

Bosch is the world's leading manufacturer of exhaust gas oxygen sensors. Their LSU range of wide-band sensors has been widely adopted by the OEMs and can be found on a huge number of production vehicles to accurately measure Lambda or the air/fuel ratio (AFR) in the exhaust system. Their common...

www.nzefi.com

I have no clue on the relay though because I just used the factory wiring and never had an issue. I'm not using it anymore since Im using a Link g4+, and CANlambda.

Your wideband heats up as soon as the car is on run IIRC.

 

[Anfurnyy]

I could also be being confused between wideband startup delay and closed loop delay..

 

[Anfurnyy]

Yeah the delay is under ECU Config, NBo2 sim, and startup options. This should delay heating of the sensor for however many seconds you set.

While you're in this table don't forget to get your switch point voltage too.

 

[1cleangsx]

I never had any issue with my innovate lc2 mines plumbed in paste the down pipe however, can’t remember but I think mine also has a warm up delay

 

[1cleangsx]

I bought it after reading the voltage output played nicer with ecmlink compared to the aem widebands, my logged WB matches what I physically see during wot

 

[chrisman287]

Most of the reason people kill sensors is because they turn the sensor on right away and the sensor heats and then gets blasted by cold air from the engine.

I have mine delayed for about 25 seconds. That’s roughly how long it says it’s heating for when ignition is on.

But, I wonder if that's why Chrisman mentioned the relay. Hook power to the relay and have the relay triggered by maybe a switch or a timer with ECMLink powering the relay so it doesn't turn on power to the gauge until like 30 seconds or etc?

I think the instructions said to use one. I had a bunch of spare Mitsu relays so that’s what I used. It isn’t pretty but it works.

EDIT: Yes

 

[Anfurnyy]

I have mine delayed for about 25 seconds. That’s roughly how long it says it’s heating for when ignition is on.


I think the instructions said to use one. I had a bunch of spare Mitsu relays so that’s what I used. It isn’t pretty but it works.

EDIT: Yes

View attachment 752486

View attachment 752487

I forgot those have their own little control box. i assume the power is sent to the sensor by whatever is powering the box.

+1 for the relay then if going with with Innovate.

 

[Anfurnyy]

But, I wonder if that's why Chrisman mentioned the relay. Hook power to the relay and have the relay triggered by maybe a switch or a timer with ECMLink powering the relay so it doesn't turn on power to the gauge until like 30 seconds or etc? You don't really need a wideband while the car is warming up.

Having the innovate makes this a bit more challenging since it's on its own circuit and doesn't use the stock narrowband setup to be able to delay the sensor.
I'm not entirely sure how it works but maybe there's a way to utilize the factory heating / switched power or ground (however it's setup) to activate the relay for the innovate controller?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Small side note before I get into other stuff, sadly I think the valve stem seals are bad in the head. This thing will smoke a tiny bit after it sits for awhile(like 4-6+ hours) then clears up once you start driving it. The engine sat assembled for like 10 years, so I'm not surprised. I went back and forth for awhile on what to do, and I think I'm gonna just send it for awhile. I'll either swap to a 2G head w/ Evo 3 IM like I've always wanted to do...or I may go extreme and just build an engine for it on the side. I would love to do the engine, but I have no clue who to use for machining anymore as BogusSVO is no longer an option. Anyway, on to the other stuff.

Some goodies arrived today, like 3 full days before they were originally scheduled to arrive. UPS ftw.

The temp gauge sensor/sending unit and harness is identical to the one that's currently in the car, so I am not going to swap it out. . If I did, that'd result in coolant leaking everywhere and then trying to reseal it would be annoying. This way I'll have a spare water temp sensor though as a bonus. Woo.

The Wideband came with the AEM/FAE sensor which according to the instructions is supposedly an improvement on the Bosch LSU4.9 sensor. Supposedly this FAE sensor is rated for leaded fuels and high temps. Curious if that's just marketing BS or if it holds up good. The good thing is, the gauge itself auto detects either sensor, so if this one doesn't last I'll try out a bosch 4.9, along with the innovate heatsink that @jdxnc recommended in another thread.


Looking forward to matching gauges. Not looking forward to fighting the wires up through the dash and out the a-pillar though.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Whoever at Holley thought it was a great idea to shorten the sensors harness, make two plugs per gauge now, and wrap both harnesses in essentially super thick vacuum tubing, I would like to fight you.


That is all I would like to state at this moment.


I see why people just mount the gauges in place of the HVAC controls on a 1G. Because running these wires up the dash and out the a pillar is a nightmare if you try to do it cleanly.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Whoever at Holley thought it was a great idea to shorten the sensors harness, make two plugs per gauge now, and wrap both harnesses in essentially super thick vacuum tubing, I would like to fight you.


That is all I would like to state at this moment.


I see why people just mount the gauges in place of the HVAC controls on a 1G. Because running these wires up the dash and out the a pillar is a nightmare if you try to do it cleanly.

You use fishing tape? For like drywall? Worked great for me. Granted I've only got 1 gauge in the pillar but I think I might move my can gauge over that way.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I run 4 conductor telephone wire, stripped to individual wires.

 

[CrackedDSM]

You use fishing tape? For like drywall? Worked great for me. Granted I've only got 1 gauge in the pillar but I think I might move my can gauge over that way.

I got the wires all up through the dash but the sheathing or insulation or whatever it's called is so thick that I can't actually fit the pillar pod down. If I try to run them under the a-pillar trim like before, it's such a thick bundle of mass that it won't snap down.


Basically gonna have to strip the last 18" of wires of the idiotic tubing so the wires can be nestled down flat to fit everything flush.


When I only had one X-series gauge before it wasn't a big deal at all. Three of them is too much though.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Update: I took a knife that was sharp-ish, but not razor blade level sharp and stripped all the insulation/tubing from the gauges down about 12". Absolute miracle cure. All the wires fit nice and even, and I was able to route everything completely hidden like it was before. Pillar pod fits even tighter than before. The pod and a-pillar trim both hate the vacuum tubing that runs to the Tru-BoostX, but that's gotta stay. Extremely pleased with the results.


All that is left, is to fit and install the gauges themselves, wire in the power/ground for each one, and run the white wire to the ECU so I can log with link, then button back up the knee panel and it'll all be complete and hidden. I work the next three days continuously, so don't think I'll be able to do that til next week. Still, exciting that I was able to get it how I wanted.

This would be so much easier if I didn't plan on having A/C and could just use the HVAC controls...or if I wasn't so OCD and had to have the wires tucked and hidden perfect. But, this time around I made them easier to remove if for some stupid reason I need to mess with them all in the future.


I also shuffled the order of the gauges now to how I originally wanted them. Before I was limited/forced to have it water temp first, wideband second, and boost last due to wiring. Stoked that's no longer the case. Anyway, pictures in a few days when it's all complete. Maybe I'll get my wife to ride along and record some turbo sounds while I'm at it.


Also: I am so glad Christmas is over. I hate Christmas and the end of the year in general.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Meant to say, one of these last weekends I tried to start from scratch on the speed density stuff. I reset the VE map back to stock, and I tried to set the injectors to the og deadtimes Stapl3 mentioned, but couldn't find them. And there's like almost 80 pages of this build thread now. Lol. I reset everything pretty much.


It wouldn't start at all. I let the engine fully come up to temp and get it up to operating temps on the old "wrong way" map before I started over on the tune from scratch, and when I loaded the OEM settings it just wouldn't restart. I could eventually get it to start if I kept trying, but man...10x worse than the "wrong" settings. I loaded the "wrong way" tune back in it, and it fired up with much less effort. BUT, for the record, when I could get the OEM settings to start, I got it to idle just fine. So that's progress.


I'm gonna try again in a few weeks, because I don't think I used the right deadtimes.

@Stapl3 buddy, do you remember what deadtimes you kept telling me to use? I can't find the comment you left with them here in the build thread. I'd like to start over and tune it the "right way".

 

[chrisman287]

Both of us have FIC 1050s. Do you want to copy some of my maps/settings? I’m using injbattadjust with deadtime at 0 and have my global at -44.9. Car drives extremely well. I’ll upload a log in a few

 

[CrackedDSM]

Both of us have FIC 1050s. Do you want to copy some of my maps/settings? I’m using injbattadjust with deadtime at 0 and have my global at -44.9. Car drives extremely well. I’ll upload a log in a few

Sure. I'll give it a shot.