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Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

Old street racing legend reborn

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Sure it may damage if you would keep hitting it by air hammer for long, but by an air hammer you can remove the stuck pin only in few seconds. By a hammer w/ a punch, probably you can not move it even 1mm by hitting many times.
Take into account the rust issue. In the picture of your roll pin I can see it has rust. They aren't that difficult to remove if rust free. The concept of the roll pins is exactly the same.
 
It's a tapered pin if I recall.
Yes that's the point. Not like other car that use a common roll pin. I call this a drift pin but I am not sure if it's the right name. Even with an air hammer if it's not contacting to the pin end well, it's difficult to remove, that's why more difficult if it's in car.

Take into account the rust issue. In the picture of your roll pin I can see it has rust. They aren't that difficult to remove if rust free. The concept of the roll pins is exactly the same.
The point is this is not a roll pin. You can see the rust is only one side actually, because that side has larger diameter with slits.
 
Yes that's the point. Not like other car that use a common roll pin. I call this a drift pin but I am not sure if it's the right name. Even with an air hammer if it's not contacting to the pin end well, it's difficult to remove, that's why more difficult if it's in car.


The point is this is not a roll pin. You can see the rust is only one side actually, because that side has larger diameter with slits.
Fair enough. I haven't spent any time studying their geometry, I just remove and reinstall. Perhaps tomorrow I'll remove one and analyze it.
 
Fair enough. I haven't spent any time studying their geometry, I just remove and reinstall. Perhaps tomorrow I'll remove one and analyze it.
It's like press fit and the pin is solid. Not like roll pin that has a space inside. You can probably imagine that why there are slits on the larger diameter side.
 
I knew the slits were on the larger side and I've still never been able to get one out.
Sorry for the confusion. I was explaining to @BLACK'98DSM.
I had the same experience once, it was very stubborn, completely stuck. I couldn't remove with WD40 and air hammer even the transmission was out. I finally needed to cut open the arm. And I saw too much rust and the pin end (Larger side) got completely smashed and widened (so the pin shape became like nail-ish). I imagine someone before me hit the pin in the wrong way too much when trying to remove the pin. And even the arm was point welded to the shaft. But this is the only moment that I couldn't remove it by air hammer.
 
So. Since I’m buying spare trans, should I still test out the one I got? Or just say eff it and send it out to get looked over? I’ve got some time to kill tomorrow and the next day, and some motivation to work on the old girl. Been thinking it’d be kind of silly to install it just to rip it back out. Then again if it worked and no noise…idk.

Roast me. Idc.
 
Soooooo. Something amazing fell into my lap, and I can't resist it. More on this in awhile, but man. Stoked.

A super low mileage auto with a trans lab kit already in the valve body and matching t case with a Forced Four box included? (What do I win LOL)
 
A super low mileage auto with a trans lab kit already in the valve body and matching t case with a Forced Four box included? (What do I win LOL)

Bruh if that was the case I'd be shouting it from the rooftops.


But, when it's dialed in and locked in I'll post more details. I won't be able to keep it quiet forever because mainly I'm too excited. Lol.
 
I had to drill my shift lever pin out. :idontknow:

This doesn’t comfort me.

Had mandatory overtime so it ate up my time. However soon as I get more time I’ll see how hard or easy it is to remove the shift arms on my current trans. I’m curious now.


So, gonna have three total transmissions. My “bad” one, and two good ones. Ones a 90, ones a 91. I’m happy with that.

Will trade every single manual thing I have for an auto swap though if anyone’s feeling frisky. :cool:
 
This doesn’t comfort me.

Had mandatory overtime so it ate up my time. However soon as I get more time I’ll see how hard or easy it is to remove the shift arms on my current trans. I’m curious now.


So, gonna have three total transmissions. My “bad” one, and two good ones. Ones a 90, ones a 91. I’m happy with that.

Will trade every single manual thing I have for an auto swap though if anyone’s feeling frisky. :cool:
i got a complete 2g auto set up.... LOL
 
So, went over to my sisters today and low and behold I found out my brother in law has a press in his garage and was 100% okay with me bringing the trans over and rebuilding it/disassembling it there. He has a parts washer and everything.


I'm gonna rebuild this trans myself. Or at least take it fully apart and see what's up. This is fantastic news. Lol.
 
So, this just kinda fell into my lap right when I'd kinda just resolved myself to rebuilding the transmission I have currently. And I'm honestly stoked.


It's a 90 model trans, but comes with the shifter, cables, t-case, and everything needed to bolt it into my 91. I'm gonna try swapping the shifter arms first though and take everyone's advice.

The cool thing is it's only got like 60k miles on it. I got it for a steal considering I now have a full entire driveline including rear and axles. And I still have my current trans that may or may not need rebuilding. I have a friend in Lakeland that has offered me his 10k mile trans in a trade for mine that needs a rebuild. His has the double synchro gears and etc. Going back and forth on that.


But yeah. Forward progress, yay!

IMG_5505.jpeg

IMG_5509.jpeg

IMG_5506.jpeg


Gonna get it all cleaned up, degreased, and paint it so it looks nice then stab it in. Excited.
 
my gf has a relatively stock 90 gsx and she has the same issue i did where if i was doing over 5k prm in boost and shift it would grind going into second. the 90 synchros are different then 91+. the synchros have like an abrasive clutch like material on the inside of them designed for " smoother " shift but werent as good as the 91+.
 
You bought a dsm that RUNS?


Ahahahahahahahahaha.


No. Can’t afford a new/running DSM. Or a clean DSM shell tbh.


I gotta say though. This one ran. It still could run with the trans stabbed back in it.


It just doesn’t drive. :p.
 
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