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Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

Old street racing legend reborn

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Progress on this is gonna stop for awhile. Got a pretty bleak prognosis for a family member so we’re probably gonna lose him.

I’ll update more as time goes on and when parts arrive but yeah. Priorities.
 
Got some parts in from Mr. Zimmer aka @twicks69 .

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So pretty. South bend SS pressure plate, B series full face ceramic disk, with OEM TOB, clip, boot, and Comp forged fork and pivot ball. From here all I need to do is clean and paint the trans, clean the flywheel with a scotchbrite pad, and reinstall it. Speaking of flywheel…

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Oof. Freakin rust. This happened in less than a month.

Also got these from @ThunderChild for a steal.

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Flywheel inspection plates since mine was missing. I cleaned both and I’ll paint both. One is a 2G one and one is a 1G. Gonna see which one fits better but both will be painted to shine like new.


Other stuff is going okay so might be more updates sooner than later. Appreciate it fellas.
 
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Are there any real differences between the 6 bolt and 7 bolt forget inspection plates? Probably 10 year ago I had them both in my hands and couldn't see any difference. I even run a 7 bolt version in my 6 bolt 2G currently.
 
Are there any real differences between the 6 bolt and 7 bolt forget inspection plates? Probably 10 year ago I had them both in my hands and couldn't see any difference. I even run a 7 bolt version in my 6 bolt 2G currently.

None that I can see minus a couple negligible differences. I’ll post the other pictures I have comparing them.

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Only difference I could really find was that the 2G model has the W5M3 on it, the bulge is different and the little lip has a “notch” in it. The bolt holes and stuff all look in the same spot.
 
Ordered some shockproof for the tcase and rear diff. Gonna break the trans in on some Valvoline parts store good ish fluid and then switch to MT-90 when it hits 500 miles so no trans fluid yet.


Woo. Super exciting update I know.
 
I swear I feel silly, but I really am very tempted to just buy a new ACT or Comp flywheel to replace this one because of how rusty it is.


Someone tell me that's a silly idea and to just clean it with a scotchbrite pad and WD40. Please. :p
 
I swear I feel silly, but I really am very tempted to just buy a new ACT or Comp flywheel to replace this one because of how rusty it is.


Someone tell me that's a silly idea and to just clean it with a scotchbrite pad and WD40. Please. :p
You do have everything apart... buy once cry once?

I'd at the very least see if you can get the old one resurfaced.
 
You do have everything apart... buy once cry once?

I'd at the very least see if you can get the old one resurfaced.

When I fixed my clutch issues, I had on hand a Fidenza and a new friction surface for it. I opted not to install it, and just scotch pad on an angle grinder the flywheel on the crank because I didn't want to fight with 6 crank bolts.


Getting good angel/bad angel on the shoulder vibes from both of you. You both have really very good points.


And I straight up do not want to fight these crank bolts....however I don't know if they've even been tightened properly. But man do I not want to try to tighten them down to the billion lb/ft required. Lol. We'll see. I may honestly go with just a scotchbrite wheel on my drill and send it. Which one/color did you use @Justin DuBois ?



Unrelated: But looking at the transmission I've discovered I'm missing one of the dowels for the bolts. Thankfully, a member here is a boss and is sending me two brand new ones for a steal. But, I've heard from a Jafro video that it can cause clutch issues if you don't have them because they fall out easily. Just wonder if its a bunch of small stuff all adding up.
 
Getting good angel/bad angel on the shoulder vibes from both of you. You both have really very good points.


And I straight up do not want to fight these crank bolts....however I don't know if they've even been tightened properly. But man do I not want to try to tighten them down to the billion lb/ft required. Lol. We'll see. I may honestly go with just a scotchbrite wheel on my drill and send it. Which one/color did you use @Justin DuBois ?



Unrelated: But looking at the transmission I've discovered I'm missing one of the dowels for the bolts. Thankfully, a member here is a boss and is sending me two brand new ones for a steal. But, I've heard from a Jafro video that it can cause clutch issues if you don't have them because they fall out easily. Just wonder if its a bunch of small stuff all adding up.
I used red - 3"? disks - and It was still a slow process, but I need a better air compressor for my 90deg air tool. - That dust is nasty stuff, use a mask and eye protection.
 
I used red - 3"? disks - and It was still a slow process, but I need a better air compressor for my 90deg air tool. - That dust is nasty stuff, use a mask and eye protection.

For sure! I’ll be using my battery drills so I’ll just plan on it taking a bunch of stop and recharge times.



But legitimately I may just buy a comp flywheel and say job done. Lol. Feel like such a goober.


Also: what the hell is the difference between the comp flywheel and the ACT flywheel? They look identical but the comp flywheel is like $70 more.
 
The flywheel that’s in my car now had been machined and not used but got a little rusty sitting for several years before I got a hold of it so I gave it the ol scotch brite machining to clean it up, never had an issue with it. However, being that I knew it was machined prior to rusting I didn’t have any worries, if it had any actual wear on it I would’ve took it up to the machine shop as cheap as it is just so I would’ve been starting fresh with it. From that point if I change the clutch or have it apart i’ll inspect the flywheel and if I don’t see anything of concern I give it a brake parts cleaner rebuild and toss everything back together. In other words if it’s me I like starting off with a 100% fresh and true surface whether it’s a machined used flywheel or a brand new one, after that knowing the history I go from there.

If you know for sure the flywheel has been machined and not used or barely used since, I say the good old scotch brite resurfacing would suffice. If you’re unsure then machine shop or replace. I haven’t had one done in quite some time as the machine shop I work at we have the capability to do it ourselves (we’re not an automotive machine shop but we all work on our own projects off the clock…or on Saturday) but last time I did it cost me 50 bucks and it was done the same day. Can’t beat the reassurance of starting with a fresh surface to go with a fresh disk.
 
The flywheel that’s in my car now had been machined and not used but got a little rusty sitting for several years before I got a hold of it so I gave it the ol scotch brite machining to clean it up, never had an issue with it. However, being that I knew it was machined prior to rusting I didn’t have any worries, if it had any actual wear on it I would’ve took it up to the machine shop as cheap as it is just so I would’ve been starting fresh with it. From that point if I change the clutch or have it apart i’ll inspect the flywheel and if I don’t see anything of concern I give it a brake parts cleaner rebuild and toss everything back together. In other words if it’s me I like starting off with a 100% fresh and true surface whether it’s a machined used flywheel or a brand new one, after that knowing the history I go from there.

If you know for sure the flywheel has been machined and not used or barely used since, I say the good old scotch brite resurfacing would suffice. If you’re unsure then machine shop or replace. I haven’t had one done in quite some time as the machine shop I work at we have the capability to do it ourselves (we’re not an automotive machine shop but we all work on our own projects off the clock…or on Saturday) but last time I did it cost me 50 bucks and it was done the same day. Can’t beat the reassurance of starting with a fresh surface to go with a fresh disk.

The surface on this one is questionable. I can’t say for certain if it’s good or not but I keep remembering that my clutch wouldn’t disengage, and I keep hearing how people have trouble with brand new act flywheels being the wrong step height.

The problem is I’m not sure if there’s a machine shop close to me that I trust, that can do the job.


Admittedly I think I’m just gonna buy a brand new Comp flywheel. They’re supposedly a tiny bit heavier and have better QC. That way I know for a fact the surface is good.

I’ll think on it for another week or two and then order it from @twicks69.
 
I would definitely go the new route if you don’t have a competent machine shop in your area being it’s a stepped flywheel as that gets a bit trickier, over the years I’ve seen people get burned on that. If we were talking a flat flywheel that’s really hard to screw up, but in this case new would be your best reassurance.
 
The flywheel is difficult to get to, might as well get a new one and call it a day. Its like while your there, ive learned my lesson on some parts i should have bought new, like injectors for example. Lately just about every on this dsm is either new or rebuilt, engine, transmission, bushings whole car, just about every damn thing.
 
The flywheel is difficult to get to, might as well get a new one and call it a day. Its like while your there, ive learned my lesson on some parts i should have bought new, like injectors for example. Lately just about every on this dsm is either new or rebuilt, engine, transmission, bushings whole car, just about every damn thing.
If you end up pulling the flywheel off, take a very close look at the rear main seal, too.
 
The flywheel is difficult to get to, might as well get a new one and call it a day. Its like while your there, ive learned my lesson on some parts i should have bought new, like injectors for example. Lately just about every on this dsm is either new or rebuilt, engine, transmission, bushings whole car, just about every damn thing.

Makes sense but keep in mind too that doesn’t always apply. In Cracked’s case yes being awd I believe one of the aftermarket flywheels would be the way to go, but for us FWD crowd in a drag or straight highway blast situation we need the weight of the stock flywheel as it’s been found a lighter variant tends to lose more momentum between shifts due to lack of rotating mass. Therefore in a situation like that a resurfaced stock flywheel is the better option and if what we have is beyond servicing then a donor stock flywheel resurfaced is the way to go. Again AWD and FWD are 2 different ball games and different rules apply, but with that being said assuming the teeth that the starter engages are in acceptable shape then a correctly done fresh machined surface on a stock flywheel is just as good as a brand new flywheel. The downfall to that is 6 bolt fwd turbo flywheels are getting harder and harder to track down but again doesn’t apply here, just remember that reworked parts in some cases are a better option than brand new, the flywheel can be one of those cases.
 
If I had a stock one I’d probably just use it or try to get it resurfaced. But this one is already an ACT Streetlite.

Also I talked with Tim Z and wanted to clear up a few things wrong I might’ve said.


1) the Comp and ACT flywheels are within like ounces of each other and are basically identical. He doesn’t recommend one over the other.

2) Use OEM flywheel bolts with either of those wheels. He recommended swapping the ARP Flywheel bolts in there now for OEM ones.


With that knowledge I’m gonna order another ACT flywheel and some OEM bolts from him as these apparently are too long or just plain unnecessary.
 
Well, shit. Wife needs dentistry done. There goes my savings that I had built back up again.


Ah well. Shit happens I guess. Just sucks because I'm getting a big check in mid January, and was gonna use it to push the DSM across the line. The joys of having a family with a severe family history of teeth issues. I think I've spent close to 10 grand on dentistry between the two of them in less than 4 years.

Not angry or depressed or ranting, just stating facts.

Still gonna do what I can, but as it seems to repeatedly be the case...more delays expected.


Maybe one day before the world ends I'll drive my own personal DSM again. Maybe.


At least my fluids came in.

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