2G Spyder 4g64 Hybrid Turbo

[alexr254]

Here is a pic with the FMIC installed, with fog lights and impact bumper in place.

I had to remove the original fog light brackets. So no adjustments allowed .
Whatever - best I can do.

PS:
It’s not flying. I promise

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[CrackedDSM]

PS:
It’s not flying. I promise

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That's just what someone with a flying car would say.

 

[alexr254]

That's just what someone with a flying car would say.

 

[Dericsh]

Install looks super clean, nice work!

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Here is a pic with the FMIC installed, with fog lights and impact bumper in place.

I had to remove the original fog light brackets. So no adjustments allowed .
Whatever - best I can do.

PS:
It’s not flying. I promise

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You should consider turning this into a build thread. I would follow along as I’m sure others would as well.

-Daniel

 

[alexr254]

I have another noobie question.
So I’m building this without ever actually having a 2G turbo.
So a lot of these things I’m putting together I don’t really have a template to work off of.

Can anyone tell me exactly what this port is for on the tube that came with the fmic kit?
I was thinking it’s for a blow off valve, but then there is a port for the BOV on the short ram intake i thought...
I’m a little confused.
Did I order something wrong? Or missing something?

Here is the pipe that came with the FMIC kit. (RTM Racing fmic kit)

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Here is the short ram intake I have. (Injen 95-99)

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Here is the BOV I have? (GFB T9133)
Or am i mistaking a diverter valve for a BOV? What is the use case for this?

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[DSMPT]

Can anyone tell me exactly what this port is for on the tube that came with the fmic kit?
I was thinking it’s for a blow off valve

Correct. The pipe has a 1G DSM flange though. So you may need an adapter to install your BOV. Check what flange your BOV has or upload a pic, then we can tell you.

but then there is a port for the BOV on the shirt ram intake.

That's a return port from the BOV.

 

[alexr254]

Correct. The pipe has a 1G DSM flange though. So you may need an adapter to install your BOV. Check what flange your BOV has or upload a pic, then we can tell you.

That's a return port from the BOV.

Thanks!

So i am guessing i would need something like this which will attach to the BOV i have. (Also called a diverter valve.. Not confusing at all)

JMF 1G DSM Blow Off Valve Adapter for 2G/Evo 7-X

The JMF 1G Blow Off Valve Adapter allows you to bolt a 1G DSM blow off valve to your Evo 7/8/9/X or 2G DSM. CNC machined from 6061 aluminum, tubing diameter is 1-3/8" OD and has a stepped edge to prevent hose slippage.

stmtuned.com

 

[DSMPT]

So i am guessing i would need something like this

Yes, something like that. Just make sure the diameter.

 

[alexr254]

Here is some more pics of the BOV I have.
This valve asks for a 1.25 ID hose inlet and outlet. (same as 1 1/4)

All I can find is an adapter with a 1 3/8 OD. (same as 1.375)

If someone is kind enough to give me a link to an adapter that fits i would be sooo grateful!
If nothing like this exists i suppose i can try to force the hose on, or worst case use some sort of hose coupler/adaper. Welding is not in my bag of tricks and unfortunately i dont have any friends that can weld either.

Ive already purchased this BOV. I dont want it to be a waste without first trying everything i can.

Isnt it kind of strange the RTM Racing intercooler kit i got for a 2G, comes with a flange for a 1G BOV? Is this normal?

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[CrackedDSM]

Here is some more pics of the BOV I have.
This valve asks for a 1.25 ID hose inlet and outlet. (same as 1 1/4)

All I can find is an adapter with a 1 3/8 OD. (same as 1.375)

If someone is kind enough to give me a link to an adapter that fits i would be sooo grateful!
If nothing like this exists i suppose i can try to force the hose on, or worst case use some sort of hose coupler/adaper. Welding is not in my bag of tricks and unfortunately i dont have any friends that can weld either.

Ive already purchased this BOV. I dont want it to be a waste without first trying everything i can.

Isnt it kind of strange the RTM Racing intercooler kit i got for a 2G, comes with a flange for a 1G BOV? Is this normal?

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It's normal because factory 2G BOV's suck, to put it nicely. What I would do is either just cut the 1G flange off and get a piece of silicone hose to clamp the pipe left to the BOV, or just buy a 1G BOV to 2G DSM adapter, and install it upside down on the 1G BOV flange on the IC kit, and do the same thing. If you don't wanna do any cutting or whatever that would be the easiest option.

 

[alexr254]

It's normal because factory 2G BOV's suck, to put it nicely. What I would do is either just cut the 1G flange off and get a piece of silicone hose to clamp the pipe left to the BOV, or just buy a 1G BOV to 2G DSM adapter, and install it upside down on the 1G BOV flange on the IC kit, and do the same thing. If you don't wanna do any cutting or whatever that would be the easiest option.

Thank you!

Out of curiosity, do you guys think this (mighty max front facing) OFH will work for this setup?
Im also curious about oil pressure since the engine does have a balance shaft delete done already.
I was reading about possibliy needing to port the OFH, or replacing a spring?

Mitsubishi OEM Mighty Max Oil Filter Housing for 7B DSM/Evo 1-3 (MD189888)

Genuine OEM Mitsubishi Mighty Max oil filter housing can be used in the 7-bolt 4G63 DSM and Evo 1/2/3. This housing rotates the filter towards the front of the car making a little extra room for your exhaust and downpipe.

stmtuned.com

This is the OFH I got:

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[alexr254]

I did some more reading about the OFH.
This is what i gathered. The FFOFH (mighty max) will need to be drilled/tapped for the oil feed if i wanted to use it.

Still not sure about the oil pressure with a 4g64 block with a balance shaft delete.

The one i have is considered the "pancaked" ofh i suppose?

 

[alexr254]

Brief update for those following this;

Finding the freeze (or expansion) plugs for the block to head surface was really difficult. I must have about 20 plugs now as spares...
All resources say you need (2) 11/16", (2) 5/8", (1) 1/2" plugs. Ohh if only it were so simple.
The 1/2 plug size was too small. I ended up finding a 13.70mm which fit good. The 5/8 fit perfectly. The most difficult was the 11/16. The 11/16 plugs were too small, 3/4 too big, 18mm too small, 19mm too big. So i had to drill it out with a 47/64 bit and used 19mm plug.
Since my hands are quite shaky and i cant use a drill press (like i should) to drill it out since the block is in the engine bay i got one of these portable drill guides, which did the job pretty dam good!

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So i did finally get to installing the head. And of course i got the wrong ARP studs. So now back to waiting.
Also just realized the thermostat housing i have is for a 1G, so my stack of wrong parts are really piliing up...

I did finish installing the oil pan with the drain for the turbo. Using "The Right Stuff" sealant instead of any cork gasket.

I installed the oil filter housing with the feed to the turbo. Although instead of using the water cooling pancake front, i decided to try a filter mount thread adapter bung.
Like this (hasnt arrived yet)

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I had no idea where the 4g63 coil pack went, but figured out quickly it goes right on the intake. Where i had another mount on the 4g64 with some other plugs on it, which i suppose is useless now.

I decided to just get rid of the stock coolant reservoir, and use one of these in its place:

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If its not one thing its the other. Im just glad there is no rush to get this done. Or i would be screwed.

Im sure when i get to all the hose connections im going to get stuck again and all the sensors on the thermostat housing which were not on the 4g64, will need to figure that one out too..


Here are some pics of the turbo i am using. New and pretty
MHI EVO III 16G

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[alexr254]

The correct ARP studs for the head came in.
Installed using a stepped torque 30-60-80 from center out. And used the lube it came with.

Went ahead and replaced the water pump.

Trying to figure out what I should do next.

Maybe the intake piping?
The exhaust manifold I’m thinking I should install the turbo to it while it’s off then install the manifold/turbo as one piece?
Or I can just go ahead and start replacing the exhaust with the catback exhaust…
decisions decisions

 

[alexr254]

Installed the new exhaust cat back. I really hope it’s not very loud. Was a tight fit, but it’s in

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Assembled the manifold/turbo/wastegate/o2 housing.
Waiting on a shipment of new cooling fittings and the correct thermostat housing before installing.

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[alexr254]

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[alexr254]

Another pit stop

So got the correct thermostat/cooling housing, but apparently the coolant pipe from the 4g64 is not the same angle for the 4g63t housing. The 4g64 pipe is also missing a couple hose connections that the 4g63 pipe has, which i can probably live without.
I will either need to somehow bend the 4g64 coolant pipe or get a 4g63 coolant pipe.

Again, this information is nowhere to be found. So hopefully this HUGE thread will be useful for others and they wont need to go through all the delays and pain i am going through.

 

[alexr254]

Another tidbit;
The intake manifold for the 4g63 does not align with the holes on the support bracket for the intake on the 4g64.
So either get a 4g63 intake manifold support bracket or modify the 4g64 intake manifold support bracket.
I modified mine and it worked fine.
But would have been nice to know BEFORE i mounted the head with the intake manifold.

 

[alexr254]

Does anyone know the correct firing order for the 2g 4g63t with a 1g CAS?
Im reading so much conflicting info its making my head dizzy.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1G CAS would be comparable to a 97-99 CAS.

Should I swap spark plug wires?

Also, most people leave off the intake manifold support bracket. Is there a particular reason you wanted to retain it?

 

[alexr254]

Also, most people leave off the intake manifold support bracket. Is there a particular reason you wanted to retain it?

No particular reason other then it was already there and i had no reason to remove it.

1G CAS would be comparable to a 97-99 CAS.

Should I swap spark plug wires?

I never had a 97-99 CAS to compare with.
I have a 94 ECU (E2T61672) with ecmlinkv3. On a 7 bolt 4g64 block, 7 bolt 4g63 head, 1G CAS, 4g63t resistor pack.

I am not sure which applies to me, if any.

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I am guessing 4132

 

[19Eclipse90]

I never had a 97-99 CAS to compare with.

I mean functionally, in regards to the cam signal it creates.

A 95 ECU with a 97-99 or 1G CAS will require swapping plug wires. So normal order is 4-1-3-2, it will become 3-2-4-1 or 3-2-1-4 like the link shows. And these would also be equivalent to 2-3-4-1 or 2-3-1-4.

 

[alexr254]

I mean functionally, in regards to the cam signal it creates.

A 95 ECU with a 97-99 or 1G CAS will require swapping plug wires. So normal order is 4-1-3-2, it will become 3-2-4-1 or 3-2-1-4 like the link shows. And these would also be equivalent to 2-3-4-1 or 2-3-1-4.

Thank you. And please excuse my ignorance. Im learning as i go.
I do have the haynes manual and the SA Design book on 4g63t's.
This is just not something covered in either.

 

[Dashnizzle]

Another pit stop

So got the correct thermostat/cooling housing, but apparently the coolant pipe from the 4g64 is not the same angle for the 4g63t housing. The 4g64 pipe is also missing a couple hose connections that the 4g63 pipe has, which i can probably live without.
I will either need to somehow bend the 4g64 coolant pipe or get a 4g63 coolant pipe.

Again, this information is nowhere to be found. So hopefully this HUGE thread will be useful for others and they wont need to go through all the delays and pain i am going through.

The extra connections would be a coolant feed/return line for the center section of the turbo. Sometimes the thermostat has lines for the oil cooler sandwich plate too if that is of any utility to you.
if you want a nice new shiny one look here:
SS Water pipe