2G Spyder 4g64 Hybrid Turbo

[alexr254]

Thank you for all of this!

One last question, where would the PCV valve vacuum line go if emissions is deleted?
Would it be straight onto the intake manifold?

 

[19Eclipse90]

The PCV valve is not deleted when removing emissions.

 

[alexr254]

The PCV valve is not deleted when removing emissions.

It’s different from the 4g64. Where does the PCV hose connect to?
From the PCV on the valve cover to ?

 

[19Eclipse90]

PCV valve screws into the valve cover and the hose opposite that runs to the intake manifold.

 

[alexr254]

Can anyone recommend a good 3” catback for a FWD 2g?
The more silent the better. It will be without a cat.

 

[alexr254]

Ok so a few updates. Mostly noob mistake stuff.

The downpipe i got is 3", the catback is also 3" but the fitting is 2.25 for the stock catalytic converter. So i modified the catback, got a 3" flange adapter and made it fit with a little elbow grease.

Coolant is leaking pretty badly from the fitting going into the turbo.
I used this Kinugawa line kit for the coolant hoses.

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I didnt use teflon tape on the parts where the line connects to the ends. I removed the front line, put teflon tape, and presto - leak gone from the front.
Unfortunately the back is leaking as well. So the turbo needs to come off so i can take care of that leak.
There is a tiny oil leak at the oil pan oil return. So im going to redo that with some more Permatex Grey RTV, or The Right Stuff.

I tapped a hole in the J-pipe and added a 1/8" hose barb for the vacuum line going to the wastegate .

Now since the turbo is coming off im going to change a couple things. Besides the obvious of using teflon tape on the coolant lines and trying to fix the oil leak at the return.
Im going to use the proper coolant feed from the block instead of feeding from the coolant pipe. (Although when i filled with cooland it did fill the turbo just fine),
I just dont know how great it will be with some pressure.

Im going to either get a new J-pipe or plug the hole i made. And will tap into the turbo compressor housing right before the J-pipe for the 1/8" barb.

 

[Dericsh]

Just throwing this out there, Since you have to remove the turbo to get to the leak. Do you think tape is the best fix? I would think some sort of liquid thread sealer/high temp rtv type of chemical would be a longer lasting solution. No direct experience here, just thinking out loud.

 

[alexr254]

Just throwing this out there, Since you have to remove the turbo to get to the leak. Do you think tape is the best fix? I would think some sort of liquid thread sealer/high temp rtv type of chemical would be a longer lasting solution. No direct experience here, just thinking out loud.

TBH i'm also not a fan of using the teflon tape here. But after i did the leak was gone.
I used the yellow teflon tape designed for thread sealing on gas fittings.
The white tape is for water. In a regular home hot water gets to about 120º.
I suppose it gets closer to 200º in the engine. So what you are saying does make sense.

I have the Permatex thread sealant. The blue stuff. The problem with that is it gets everywhere, and essentially does the same thing teflon tape does. It just gets more into the cracks and crevices.

Using high temp RTV for this does sound like it may be a good solution, but will it seal thread to prevent leaks? Ive never used it for that before.
Anyone have any other input on this?

EDIT:
Just found this for the teflon tape i used, i think it will be ok:
Temperature range: -400°F to +500°F (-268°C to + 260°C) PTFE is completely stable up to +500°F or +260°C. Decomposition is slow up to 750°F or 400°C. Although decomposition will occur on contact with naked flames.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

There should be no need for thread sealant on a banjo bolt with 2 crushers. The crush washers are what seal not the threads.

You are saying it’s leaking at the chra? It’s fastened with banjo bolts? Or I’m confused on what bolts your putting tape on?

-Daniel

 

[Dericsh]

There should be no need for thread sealant on a banjo bolt with 2 crushers. The crush washers are what seal not the threads.

You are saying it’s leaking at the chra? It’s fastened with banjo bolts? Or I’m confused on what bolts your putting tape on?

-Daniel

True, it does look like the linked kit has banjo bolts with crush washers.

 

[alexr254]

It does not need it on the part with the banjo bolt and crush washers.
It needs it on the part where the line screws into the fitting that the banjo bolt goes through and on the other end as well where the barb fitting screws into the line.
Each end is scewed on.

There should be no need for thread sealant on a banjo bolt with 2 crushers. The crush washers are what seal not the threads.

You are saying it’s leaking at the chra? It’s fastened with banjo bolts? Or I’m confused on what bolts your putting tape on?

-Daniel

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[DSMPT]

That fitting is supposed to be banjo in one side + AN fitting in another side where connecting to the line. So if teflon tape stops the leak for now means most likely you didn't tighten enough the line side connection or something is not right on the part or installation.
Anyways it would probably leak once the coolant temp get hotter due to higher pressure.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

As Hiroshi said if you look at the ends you speak of it should have a nice smooth tapered tip( an fitting)

AN style fittings should also not require any thread sealant either as it seals on the design on the tip on the fitting sorta like a compression fitting.

-Daniel

 

[alexr254]

I figured they are compression fittings which is why i didnt use any sealant to begin with.
I tightened them more then adequately. They only stopped leaking after adding a sealant.

PTFE is completely stable up to +500 F. Not sure where the worry comes from about heat causing an issue.
If it ever gets above 500 F, i have more serious issues.

I plan on using PTFE teflon tape and putting some PTFE liquid sealant over the tape just for good measure.

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[DSMPT]

They only stopped leaking after adding a sealant.

Then most likely the fittings are damaged or defective, assuming you install it properly.

AN fittings shouldn't require any sealant to seal. If it leaks without sealant, then something is obviously wrong. It doesn't matter the temp or sealant material. It does matter if it requires sealant or not to seal properly.
This is like fixing a cracked intercooler by gluing or/and duct taping. Yes it may work in some case but obviously not the right way and wouldn't probably last long.

If I were you, I would ask the vendor to exchange it.

 

[alexr254]

Exchange process has been started

Delays... Ugh.

 

[troppo loungo]

There is also heavy duty orange teflon tape often used in gas fittings. It may be more robust and found one, Masters/Oatey, rated to 600F.

 

[alexr254]

There is also heavy duty orange teflon tape often used in gas fittings. It may be more robust and found one, Masters/Oatey, rated to 600F.

I can’t find this. Can you link it please?
The yellow Teflon tape is what I’ve always used for gas fittings.

 

[troppo loungo]

Masters® Orange T-Tape Roll | Oatey

Masters® Orange T-Tape is a non-corrosive, non-flammable, clean, easy to use premium quality thread sealing tape. Because it is chemically inert, it seals all metal and plastic threaded connections against leakage at temperatures from –400 F to +600F (-240 C to +316 C).

www.oatey.ca

It's should be available at the big box or plumbing/industrial supply outlet.

 

[alexr254]

Masters® Orange T-Tape Roll | Oatey

Masters® Orange T-Tape is a non-corrosive, non-flammable, clean, easy to use premium quality thread sealing tape. Because it is chemically inert, it seals all metal and plastic threaded connections against leakage at temperatures from –400 F to +600F (-240 C to +316 C).

www.oatey.ca

It's should be available at the big box or plumbing/industrial supply outlet.

Thanks!
I’ll replace the lines and for good measure put some high temp sealant.

 

[Rich_Howell]

Just read all of this. I'm about to swap a stock 4g64 bottom end into a Spyder GS-T. Hoping to hear about your results before I do so.

One thing I will say is that running without oil cooling of any type is a very bad idea. Might work fine for the guys who run 1320ft at a time...but definitely not for DD purposes.

Something is better than nothing. I would reinstall that water-cooled sandwich cooler OR see about getting an adapter plate to allow for the addition of an air-to-oil cooler if you can't source an Evo3 or Evo8/9 OFH (I know they're hard to find now...especially at a rate lower than 2 spare left testicles).

 

[alexr254]

Yep this is absolutely not a DD.

Hopefully in a month or so ill start tuning.

 

[alexr254]

It is soooo frustrating.
So far I’ve not been able to deal with the coolant leaks at the 16G turbo.
I’ve only tried using the flexible lines.
It’s leaking from the one in the back (coolant return) Which ofc is a pain to get to without removing the entire turbo/manifold.
I’m going to try one more time with the flexible lines, if it’s still leaking coolant I’m going to use the hard pipes.
Every time I try I do use new crush washers. I never reuse them.
This will be my 4th attempt.
I noticed it’s leaking pretty badly when the cap for the coolant is off. When it’s on I don’t think it leaks at all. Kinda strange but figured it’s negative pressure with the cap on, making the coolant leak less noticeable.

 

[alexr254]

Well... I took a break for a while.
Just started back up from where i left off.

All leaks are fixed.

Finished reinstalling the rear seat with some noise/heat reducing padding.
Finished the wiring for the new guages. Mainly all that was left was the light source wires and one switched 12v wire, I just tapped into the light wire for the cigarette lighter for the guages light source.
Finished the timing belt install and did the timing.
Finished installing the GFB diverter valve. Had to use some heat resistant clear tubing with springs it it so it wouldnt kink. I'll wrap it with something.

Im almost ready to fire it up for the first time and start tuning.
Just have a few things left to finish. Install right side motor mount, reinstall all motor covers/interior panels, charge the AC, install all belts for the AC, power steering, alternator.

Will definitely need some help with tuning.
Any tips, if i should check anything super closely before firing it up?

After this i will need to fix some more things i consider cosmetic. The rear windows dont roll all the way up unless helped manually, this started after replacing the rag top. The 3rd party alarm with remote door locks stopped working, need to figure that one out or replace whatever is there now with a new one.

 

[colephillips]

Well... I took a break for a while.
Just started back up from where i left off.

All leaks are fixed.

Finished reinstalling the rear seat with some noise/heat reducing padding.
Finished the wiring for the new guages. Mainly all that was left was the light source wires and one switched 12v wire, I just tapped into the light wire for the cigarette lighter for the light wire.
Finished the timing belt install and did the timing.
Finished installing the GFB diverter valve. Had to use some heat resistant clear tubing with springs it it so it wouldnt kink. I'll wrap it with something.

Im almost ready to fire it up for the first time and start tuning.
Just have a few things left to finish. Install right side motor mount, reinstall all motor covers/interior panels, charge the AC, install all belts for the AC, power steering, alternator.

Will definitely need some help with tuning.
Any tips, if i should check anything super closely before firing it up?

After this i will need to fix some more things i consider cosmetic. The rear windows dont roll all the way up unless helped manually, this started after replacing the rag top. The 3rd party alarm with remote door locks stopped working, need to figure that one out or replace whatever is there now with a new one.

Thank you for documenting this I have plans for my Spyder and your write up has been extremely thorough and helpful in planning. Good luck! Glad to see you're still at it.