2G Spyder 4g64 Hybrid Turbo

[alexr254]

You’d be surprised how much they can take when everything is proper. After over 20k miles making over 400 at the wheels my original non turbo pistons are still fine, and the last turbo on it was a 63mm Borg, quite a distance from a 14b let alone the 16g I originally started with. Not saying I would go advising everyone to do it but I’m so confident in them I bought new non turbo pistons for the new block, the only downfall is no one will want those pistons when I go to sell all the dsm crap off here soon.

I’m ready to spend $$$$ to get a DOHC head.
I think it’s probably best to bore cylinders and change pistons, and worth the cost.

I really really really just don’t want to remove the engine again. Then drive 90 minutes each way to a dependable machine shop, etc.

I’m ready to do the head swap and all that junk. But none of that requires the engine to be removed. I’m just not feeling it to remove the engine

I’m still curious what anyone thinks of the head I linked.

 

[Tina94]

You’d be surprised how much they can take when everything is proper. After over 20k miles making over 400 at the wheels my original non turbo pistons are still fine, and the last turbo on it was a 63mm Borg, quite a distance from a 14b let alone the 16g I originally started with. Not saying I would go advising everyone to do it but I’m so confident in them I bought new non turbo pistons for the new block, the only downfall is no one will want those pistons when I go to sell all the dsm crap off here soon.

Did you have the bottom end apart and refreshed or built up besides the pistons? That's a shockingly big turbo for the application, do you think maybe it lighting higher in the rpms actually saved some stress on the bottom end compared to a small, quick spooler hitting hard torque low and quick? Like stripping 3rd while pulling hard from low rpm?

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

Did you have the bottom end apart and refreshed or built up besides the pistons? That's a shockingly big turbo for the application, do you think maybe it lighting higher in the rpms actually saved some stress on the bottom end compared to a small, quick spooler hitting hard torque low and quick? Like stripping 3rd while pulling hard from low rpm?

It was an untouched non turbo 6 bolt, didn’t even have the head off before I put the first 16g set up on it at 110k miles. It lived mostly on e85 with the exception of the first set up and the last time it was together. On the s363 it made 454 on 93 octane pump gas, was going to shoot for 600 turned up on e85 but the seal on the oil filter blew mid 130mph pull and starved it of oil so it didn’t go back to the dyno. That was at 130k on the untouched non turbo bottom end that had never been out of the car.

 

[CrackedDSM]

It was an untouched non turbo 6 bolt, didn’t even have the head off before I put the first 16g set up on it at 110k miles. It lived mostly on e85 with the exception of the first set up and the last time it was together. On the s363 it made 454 on 93 octane pump gas, was going to shoot for 600 turned up on e85 but the seal on the oil filter blew mid 130mph pull and starved it of oil so it didn’t go back to the dyno. That was at 130k on the untouched non turbo bottom end that had never been out of the car.

I swear I’m reminded of the past DSM days where they swore up and down that automatic dsm trans were so weak you couldn’t push much further then free mods on them.

I’m beginning to wonder if the “weak ring lands” is a myth that was caused by no tuning solutions or bad gas or both. With the tech we have today 9.0:1 on pump is nothing.

 

[Dericsh]

I suggest messaging Rix Racing and see if or what they have that maybe more suited to your goals, it might save you a few dollars or save you from buying from an unknown eBay seller at least.

 

[alexr254]

I suggest messaging Rix Racing and see if or what they have that maybe more suited to your goals, it might save you a few dollars or save you from buying from an unknown eBay seller at least.

I saw this too late. Already have a DOHC head on order.
I have so many parts here waiting to be installed, im losing track of what i have.

 

[Dericsh]

I saw this too late. Already have a DOHC head on order.
I have so many parts here waiting to be installed, im losing track of what i have.

No worries, congrats on finding one!

 

[Tina94]

I saw this too late. Already have a DOHC head on order.
I have so many parts here waiting to be installed, im losing track of what i have.

I don’t think you’ll regret it. It’s sounding like a kickass build.

 

[alexr254]

I don’t think you’ll regret it. It’s sounding like a kickass build.

Thanks.
I’m just finishing up a few things before I get started on the build.
Had to replace the driver side inner cv boot. And while I was in there noticed the rack and pinion boot was ripped and the upper control arm looked very worn.
So I ended up fixing all that with new parts while also replacing the stabilizer bar link and tie rods.
I also ended up upgrading the front brake calipers and rotors.
Kind of stuck until the control arm arrives.
After I have all that together I’ll begin with the build and the mess of parts I have laying around.

Only parts I haven’t gotten yet are for the turbo.
The turbo, intercooler, pipes, etc.
Haven’t decided yet on which.

Can anyone recommend the best cams option for the 4g63 head to be used on a 4g64 block?
Considering pistons are not being changed (yet).

 

[JohntyBee]

Can anyone recommend the best cams option for the 4g63 head to be used on a 4g64 block?
Considering pistons are not being changed (yet).

My current setup in my galant I’ve been riding HKS 264/272s but on my next build I’ll be going with either GSC S2/S3. Kind of depends on what your goal is though

 

[alexr254]

My current setup in my galant I’ve been riding HKS 264/272s but on my next build I’ll be going with either GSC S2/S3. Kind of depends on what your goal is though

My goal is to have a decent powered street Spyder 4g64t.
Nothing crazy. But have power/boost/acceleration if you need it.

My current setup in my galant I’ve been riding HKS 264/272s but on my next build I’ll be going with either GSC S2/S3. Kind of depends on what your goal is though

Was just looking into the GSC cams.
I think they are overkill for me. Especially with a stock bottom.
Also would like to have as smooth of an idle as possible and seems those cams are not for a smooth idle.
I may just go with stock cams for now.

 

[CrackedDSM]

2.4's like big cams. So do the 2.3 strokers. A 272 cam is more like a 264/oem cam on a 2.4. GSCs are known for having a great idle, as are a few of the other brands like the FP cams. If you're that worried about the idle, just raise it a little to 900-1000 and they won't bump.

No offense and I don't mean to sound like an ass, but every bit of advice you are given you argue against. If you know everything, and you know exactly what you want to do and aren't willing to take a bit of advice or differing opinion...why post here? Genuinely curious.

 

[alexr254]

2.4's like big cams. So do the 2.3 strokers. A 272 cam is more like a 264/oem cam on a 2.4. GSCs are known for having a great idle, as are a few of the other brands like the FP cams. If you're that worried about the idle, just raise it a little to 900-1000 and they won't bump.

No offense and I don't mean to sound like an ass, but every bit of advice you are given you argue against. If you know everything, and you know exactly what you want to do and aren't willing to take a bit of advice or differing opinion...why post here? Genuinely curious.

If it sounds like arguing, that’s not my intention.
I take every bit of advice I get and digest it. But I don’t blindly follow.
I need to understand fully - and by asking or looking for all options this is my way of doing that.

If one person says do A, and I’ve read elsewhere that B or C also works. I won’t do either until I know what each does and which is best for me.

I looked up the cams JohntyBee suggested. And I read that they can cause rough idle. I didn’t know about those cams at all before he suggested them. So it was helpful in my decision making.
Just because I don’t follow does not mean I’m combating against it.

Only thing I really didn’t want to do is take out the engine. So when it comes to the lower internals I suppose I am a bit combative against that. Although I do agree it’s best to do this. But also have read many success stories with stock internals.
I don’t want to take out the engine because I don't really have any physical help and I’m not a youngin’ anymore. Just the thought of pulling the axles makes me break out into a cold sweat. And don’t get me started on getting the bolt for the mount near the firewall back on. Omg I don’t want to do that again if it can be helped.

When it comes to rough idle, it frightens me. Because even before I started this I’ve been dealing with a wickedly bad idle vibration. I really don’t want to do anything that might contribute to it.
I’m hoping all these mods and work will get rid of it.

I do hope this helps explain. I do appreciate every bit of advice. In no way, shape, or form do I know everything.
I actually know very little when it comes to these engines and options. This is just how I learn.

Without these forums and the tips and advice from the awesome contributors - I would get nowhere with this project.

 

[CrackedDSM]

If it sounds like arguing, that’s not my intention.
I take every bit of advice I get and digest it. But I don’t blindly follow.
I need to understand fully - and by asking or looking for all options this is my way of doing that.

If one person says do A, and I’ve read elsewhere that B or C also works. I won’t do either until I know what each does and which is best for me.

I looked up the cams JohntyBee suggested. And I read that they can cause rough idle. I didn’t know about those cams at all before he suggested them. So it was helpful in my decision making.
Just because I don’t follow does not mean I’m combating against it.

Only thing I really didn’t want to do is take out the engine. So when it comes to the lower internals I suppose I am a bit combative.l against that. Although I do agree it’s best to do this. But also have read many success stories with stock internals.
I don’t want to take out the engine because I don't really have any physical help and I’m not a youngin’ anymore. Just the thought of pulling the axles makes me break out into a cold sweat.

When it comes to rough idle, it frightens me. Because even before I started this I’ve been dealing with a wickedly bad idle vibration. I really don’t want to do anything that might contribute to it.
I’m hoping all these mods and work will get rid of it.

Understood. I wasn't angry or challenging you, was just getting some clarification.

I think Palm Coast is pretty far from Pensacola, FL or I'd volunteer to help out. I enjoy working on DSMs and engine building/disassembling is my favorite thing to do bar none.

But, I wouldn't worry too much about the idle tbh. It's not like a big chopping V8 unless you get something ridiculously large like 280's+ or a super high lift cam like GSC's "X" brands or Kelford HL models. For GSC S1's or S2's, idle isn't that bad at all, especially if you bump it up a few hundred RPM. You honestly probably won't notice a difference from the current bad idle it has(firsthand experience here. couldn't feel my cams after I installed them in my OG Eclipse because of a pre-existing rough idle). It's definitely a good thing to research as much as possible and don't just blindly follow.


Spleen has me pretty convinced that I'd honestly just keep the stock bottom end, and just be easy with the timing map. A solid tuner that's well established like Ricky Nichols, Kevin Jewer, Scott Laird(if he still tunes), etc are all solid guys that'll do a "remote" tune for you and will know just what the engine needs to survive. I wouldn't worry too much about what cams will do to the pistons tbh. I think you'll be fine. GSC S2's get my vote, or just plain old GSC S1's if you want ultra low end-mid range grunt and don't care about top end. Or if you can find some FP2's or HKS 272s. Both of those are tried and true on strokers and 2.4's that aren't great for top end, but are amazing for low-mid range with great idle characteristics. Avoid BC cams.

 

[alexr254]

Understood. I wasn't angry or challenging you, was just getting some clarification.

I think Palm Coast is pretty far from Pensacola, FL or I'd volunteer to help out. I enjoy working on DSMs and engine building/disassembling is my favorite thing to do bar none.

But, I wouldn't worry too much about the idle tbh. It's not like a big chopping V8 unless you get something ridiculously large like 280's+ or a super high lift cam like GSC's "X" brands or Kelford HL models. For GSC S1's or S2's, idle isn't that bad at all, especially if you bump it up a few hundred RPM. You honestly probably won't notice a difference from the current bad idle it has(firsthand experience here. couldn't feel my cams after I installed them in my OG Eclipse because of a pre-existing rough idle). It's definitely a good thing to research as much as possible and don't just blindly follow.


Spleen has me pretty convinced that I'd honestly just keep the stock bottom end, and just be easy with the timing map. A solid tuner that's well established like Ricky Nichols, Kevin Jewer, Scott Laird(if he still tunes), etc are all solid guys that'll do a "remote" tune for you and will know just what the engine needs to survive. I wouldn't worry too much about what cams will do to the pistons tbh. I think you'll be fine. GSC S2's get my vote, or just plain old GSC S1's if you want ultra low end-mid range grunt and don't care about top end. Or if you can find some FP2's or HKS 272s. Both of those are tried and true on strokers and 2.4's that aren't great for top end, but are amazing for low-mid range with great idle characteristics. Avoid BC cams.

Thank you!
You gave me a bunch to research

My idle problem is most likely due to a bad fuel pump relay, which is also being changed, as well as the fuel pump. And just about everything else that has to do with fuel delivery.

I just am trying my best to make the right decisions now. So I won’t regret what I did later and then will need to redo it.

Yea Pensacola is quite far away. I’m right by St Augustine on the Atlantic side.

Don't mean to damper the mood but every engine I’ve ever built has been with my father, who passed away last year. We always came up with projects for us to do.
This is the first time I’m soloing one. My son is still too little and weak at 12 years old.
I’m just being cautious

Understood. I wasn't angry or challenging you, was just getting some clarification.

I think Palm Coast is pretty far from Pensacola, FL or I'd volunteer to help out. I enjoy working on DSMs and engine building/disassembling is my favorite thing to do bar none.

But, I wouldn't worry too much about the idle tbh. It's not like a big chopping V8 unless you get something ridiculously large like 280's+ or a super high lift cam like GSC's "X" brands or Kelford HL models. For GSC S1's or S2's, idle isn't that bad at all, especially if you bump it up a few hundred RPM. You honestly probably won't notice a difference from the current bad idle it has(firsthand experience here. couldn't feel my cams after I installed them in my OG Eclipse because of a pre-existing rough idle). It's definitely a good thing to research as much as possible and don't just blindly follow.


Spleen has me pretty convinced that I'd honestly just keep the stock bottom end, and just be easy with the timing map. A solid tuner that's well established like Ricky Nichols, Kevin Jewer, Scott Laird(if he still tunes), etc are all solid guys that'll do a "remote" tune for you and will know just what the engine needs to survive. I wouldn't worry too much about what cams will do to the pistons tbh. I think you'll be fine. GSC S2's get my vote, or just plain old GSC S1's if you want ultra low end-mid range grunt and don't care about top end. Or if you can find some FP2's or HKS 272s. Both of those are tried and true on strokers and 2.4's that aren't great for top end, but are amazing for low-mid range with great idle characteristics. Avoid BC cams.

Are these cams like the 272’s you are referring to?

Kelford Cams for DSM & Evo 1-3

All available DSM, GVR4 and Evo 1/2/3 hydraulic Kelford cam sets are listed to easily compare specs. We ship worldwide!

stmtuned.com

And thank you for the tip on the remote tuning. I will absolutely be asking for help with that when that time comes.
I’m really looking forward to hooking up to the ecmlink and seeing some results.

So as suggested - I am going to go with these

GSC Power-Division S2 Camshafts | DSM and Evo 1-3 (7003S2)

GSC Power-Division Billet Evo 1-3 and DSM S2 Camshafts GSC Power-Division billet S2 cams for the Mitsubishi Evo 1-3 and first and second Gen DSM cars. The S2 cams are designed for those with more power in mind or a larger turbo. No low end power is lost vs. the stock cams when used with the...

www.maperformance.com

 

[alexr254]

Can anyone confirm if i need a different water pump?
I am getting mixed results when i look for this info.
Some posts say the 4g64 water pump is fine to use with the 4g63 DOHC. Some say otherwise.
I already have a pile of new parts I need to organize better.

 

[alexr254]

I would just like to add to this thread;

I’m the luckiest guy. I am so grateful my wife is not complaining at all about what I’m spending on this project. On the contrary, she is always outside trying to help me however she can.

That said, I do think I’ve become kinda insane and obsessed considering what I’ve already spent on this project.
Some people budget. I spend and lose count.

And I haven’t even gotten any turbo parts yet

Just finished with the non engine work.
The fun starts tomorrow.

I think I’m going to start with the new fuel pump and installing the ECU. Then start with the head swap.

I’m still waiting on the PTE680 injectors to come back from the shop.

Some photos of the last few days. On top of this I’ve been working on my CJ7, which had a bunch of electrical issues from being outside for too long unused.

New wheels are on queue

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[Dericsh]

How is that kobalt air hammer? I had a craftsman one that just couldn’t get the job done. I’ve had an IR in my Amazon cart for a while, just haven’t needed it yet.

 

[alexr254]

How is that kobalt air hammer? I had a craftsman one that just couldn’t get the job done. I’ve had an IR in my Amazon cart for a while, just haven’t needed it yet.

It did get the job done. Much better than the cheapo harbor freight one It was an impulse buy out of frustration.

That steering arm did not want to come off! I had to torch it while using the air hammer. Eventually it popped off.
Most of my tools are pneumatic. I have a 80Gal perma-installed air compressor in my garage. I would say the air compressor is one of my most important pieces of equipment, can’t imagine not having it. Which reminds me - I really should drain it and change the oil in it.

The paint job on the Spyder was done by my father and me in my garage. I’m proud of that paint job. We also changed the rag top together. It’s all fairly new.

Just for the heck of it. Here’s the mess I’ve been making in the CJ7. Multitasking.
Nothing in the dash was working, headlights weren’t working. Radio not working.
Left outside for too long. Rodents destroyed some wires. Also found several solder joints that went bad under the fuse block.

I fixed all electrical issues, decided to replace the radio, ran all new speaker wires and RCA cables, replaced front speakers, and replaced the amp. Still need to clean up and tuck away all wires.

I also have a 2012 MINI Countryman and a 2020 Benz C300 (for my wife). She can’t drive a manual

This CJ7 was a frame up restoration done by my father and me about 5-6 years ago. Engine has maybe 5k miles on it now, probably less.
Engine was a complete rebuild done by us (with the help of a great machine shop). Lower and upper. Crank polished, new cam, head bored, new pistons, new valves. The whole 9 yards.

We did everything from brake, gas lines (all SS) custom body panels, rebuild transmission and transfer case, custom wiring harness using fuse blocks from a junked Cherokee. We even swapped out the old frame for one in immaculate shape - not a spec of rust.

The body panels were cut by us and welded together by us. They were all made from recycled street/construction signs, the entire tub except for the floor. Thus the name we gave it
SCRAPper.
We fabricated the rear bumper and spare tire holder.
We fit leather front and rear seats (removable) from a minivan.
We paired a AX15 transmission to a i258, also paired to a DANA300 transfer case. Added a sniper EFI and tossed the carburetor.
Modded the transfer case so it’s a twin stick - can control the front and rear drives individually. New locking differentials.

I can go on and on.

Sorry - know this is not a Jeep forum. I just felt like sharing.

Back to the DSM!!

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[Dericsh]

That Jeep looks really nice. Definitely something to be proud of. There’s a non-DSM build thread section if you wanted to set up all your cars for build threads.

 

[alexr254]

That Jeep looks really nice. Definitely something to be proud of. There’s a non-DSM build thread section if you wanted to set up all your cars for build threads.

Thanks. I usually don’t go blabbing away like that.
When inspiration lends itself to me, i may start my build threads.

I would like to tap and use a threaded plug to cap off the oil passages on the block.

Does anyone know the best size threaded plugs to use?
I found information on freeze cap sizes. But not sure if that correlates to the threaded plugs.

 

[alexr254]

Here is my attempt at organizing. Trying to remember just about everything I’ve ordered thus far.


4g64 DOHC timing belt
GSC S2 Cams
4g63t valve cover w/gaskets
SS O2 housing for 4g63t
Ecmlinkv3 slotted ECU
OEM Fuel Injector resistor for 4g63t
Underdrive crank pulley (just to see how it works)
All parts for rear brakes - rear drum to disc swap
Ported 4g63t Exhaust manifold
SS catback full exhaust
PTE 680CC Fuel Injectors
FuelLab “515” Adjustable EFI regulator kit
Walbro 255lph fuel pump w/hardwire kit
S90 throttle body (74mm) W/plates and gaskets
Dual Gauge cluster pod (glowshift)
4g63 knock sensor (with pigtail) (smp-ks32)
Innovate LC-2 Wideband Kit W/gauge
4g63t spark plugs and spark plug wires
4g63t TPS W/pigtail
4g63t IAC valve
4g63t cam gear timing belt cover
4g64 DOHC head gasket
Weapon-R cold air intake

I’m positive I am forgetting a bunch of things. I’ll add as I remember or get more.

I am still undecided on which turbo to use and which coolers/pipes to use.

Another noob question - i do applogize in advance.
I just received the cam gears for the 4g63 head. However they look identical. And they both have D20 marked on them.
I just dont know enough to know if i was sent 2 exhaust gear or vice-a-versa.
I also dont know if both gears are indeed identical and i should be ok with these as long as i advance the timing 1/2 a tooth.

Again, without these forums and without everyones help here. I would get nowhere fast with this project.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

Here is my attempt at organizing. Trying to remember just about everything I’ve ordered thus far.


4g64 DOHC timing belt
GSC S2 Cams
4g63t valve cover w/gaskets
SS O2 housing for 4g63t
Ecmlinkv3 slotted ECU
OEM Fuel Injector resistor for 4g63t
Underdrive crank pulley (just to see how it works)
All parts for rear brakes - rear drum to disc swap
SS 4g63t Exhaust manifold
SS catback full exhaust
PTE 680CC Fuel Injectors
FuelLab “515” Adjustable EFI regulator kit
Walbro 255lph fuel pump w/hardwire kit
S90 throttle body (74mm) W/plates and gaskets
Dual Gauge cluster pod (glowshift)
4g63 knock sensor (with pigtail) (smp-ks32)
Innovate LC-2 Wideband Kit W/gauge
4g63t spark plugs and spark plug wires
4g63t TPS W/pigtail
4g63t IAC valve
4g63t cam gear timing belt cover
4g64 DOHC head gasket
Weapon-R cold air intake

I’m positive I am forgetting a bunch of things. I’ll add as I remember or get more.

I am still undecided on which turbo to use and which coolers/pipes to use.

Keep in mind to use a timing belt for the DOHC 4g64 you need the cam gears from a DOHC 4g64, extremepsi used to sell them new for a pretty reasonable price but been a while since I looked, otherwise you need to use adjustable cam gears for a 4g63 and a belt for the 4g63 and use some trickery, that I can’t explain but there’s write ups on it, my advice would be find the DOHC 4g64 gears and use the belt that goes with them to make timing straight forward.

Also if I may give more advice, if you’re going with a bolt on turbo like a 16g (I would imagine something in that ballpark as 680cc injectors won’t feed much more) then the cheapo stainless tubular manifold and o2 housing isn’t what you want. A ported stock 2g exhaust manifold or ported JDM evo 3 manifold would be optimal, an FP race manifold wouldn’t be the best matched but would also do well if you weren’t looking for 100% max efficiency, however the cheap tubular td05 flanged manifold’s suck, 9 times out of 10 the flanges are warped right out of the box and often they’ll crack very prematurely as they’re made from a piss poor quality super thin stainless, not to mention they don’t flow as well as the ported stock 2g manifold. Sure the t3 ones are good in some cases for those looking to go big turbo on a budget and know the risks, but pointless on a stock flanged turbo when there’s more reliable and better performing options for less money with less headaches, plus a 2g manifold or evo 3 manifold would give the option of running a factory heat shield if you desired. Same deal with the cheap ching chong o2 housings, usually warped and the super thin material cracks literally in the material more often than at the weld, plus the angle is too tight to be a gain. Better option is to pick up a stock one for next to nothing and port it or buy one someone already did a nice port job on.

Not telling you how to live but passing on some info that might save you a little bit while being more reliable and performing better. Typically I’d say the GSC s2’s would be a tad overkill for a turbo in that class and to opt for the s1’s but being we’re talking a 2.4 liter that may not be the case but something to dig into nonetheless.

 

[alexr254]

Keep in mind to use a timing belt for the DOHC 4g64 you need the cam gears from a DOHC 4g64, extremepsi used to sell them new for a pretty reasonable price but been a while since I looked, otherwise you need to use adjustable cam gears for a 4g63 and a belt for the 4g63 and use some trickery, that I can’t explain but there’s write ups on it, my advice would be find the DOHC 4g64 gears and use the belt that goes with them to make timing straight forward.

Also if I may give more advice, if you’re going with a bolt on turbo like a 16g (I would imagine something in that ballpark as 680cc injectors won’t feed much more) then the cheapo stainless tubular manifold and o2 housing isn’t what you want. A ported stock 2g exhaust manifold or ported JDM evo 3 manifold would be optimal, an FP race manifold wouldn’t be the best matched but would also do well if you weren’t looking for 100% max efficiency, however the cheap tubular td05 flanged manifold’s suck, 9 times out of 10 the flanges are warped right out of the box and often they’ll crack very prematurely as they’re made from a piss poor quality super thin stainless, not to mention they don’t flow as well as the ported stock 2g manifold. Sure the t3 ones are good in some cases for those looking to go big turbo on a budget and know the risks, but pointless on a stock flanged turbo when there’s more reliable and better performing options for less money with less headaches, plus a 2g manifold or evo 3 manifold would give the option of running a factory heat shield if you desired. Same deal with the cheap ching chong o2 housings, usually warped and the super thin material cracks literally in the material more often than at the weld, plus the angle is too tight to be a gain. Better option is to pick up a stock one for next to nothing and port it or buy one someone already did a nice port job on.

Not telling you how to live but passing on some info that might save you a little bit while being more reliable and performing better. Typically I’d say the GSC s2’s would be a tad overkill for a turbo in that class and to opt for the s1’s but being we’re talking a 2.4 liter that may not be the case but something to dig into nonetheless.

I appreciate all your advice

I’ve searched for cam gears for a dohc 4g64. Seems they don’t exist anymore. Or I just can’t find any.

I haven’t decided on the turbo yet. But might be leaning towards a 16G.

I’ll definitely keep an eye out for a ported 2G manifold.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

It doesn’t get much simpler than a 16g, that was the first turbo I bolted on to the ol faithful na 4g63 and was also the most fun.