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Road Race Build 2G Auto Time Attack race build!

Year
1997
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I colored the timing marks on the cover too. Much easier to see when you put the timing light:thumb:
Haha i had the pen on me and thougt ya know what! I wanna mark these to see easier. Dont k ow why they dont come white from the factory but its wayyy better now its color and can see it all better
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Been trying to do little bits here and their till the rad core turns up.

Managed to get the EWP installed and mounted which allows it to absorb vibrations and move around a small amount which is what they say is a good idea. The 20AN lines were a bugger to do in small places and i did struggle since its somewhat a tight ish bend. I ended up having to soak it in hotwater and it made it a heck of alot better to fit and work with and bend for that matter.
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I also found a spot for the ewp controller inside the car and now have to figure out where to get it through the bulkhead as i got no hole space left.
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My fans also turned up which are 305m? 1350cmf units each!! These are some nice quakity fans and many people here who race are using these fans.
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Lastly my new turbo blanket arrived as the old one is well...... Broken! Yet its only had 3000miles on it. The company didnt know why it failed outside but they discounted the new one for me.
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One last thing to tease you also.
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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Not much to report apart from getting my setrab oil coolers in and today went in to start mocking it all up for mounting and some ducting on them. I opted for some big buggers and perhaps a bit too big but these are rated to 47% more cooling then my current Long Tru coolers are.

Im just awaiting some rubber bobbins for the lower section but the top is done and the side ducts are done and will seal against the intercooler with foam padding and this will make sure all air coming through the intercooler will go through the other coolers and not around them.
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I also finished covering my alt heatshield so its all painted and gold lined.
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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Whats up you lot. Alot has gone on and good and bad things have happened!

My rad core turned up finally so i started work on that mocking it up and getting the end tanks welded up, i did not know the best design for end tanks so i tried to research on whats best but did not find much on this so i just went with a normal square setup as most are and they work well. Alot of the race rads also do this so might aswel to as they do right.

Once that was made i went on to supporting it and for this i used the upper rad bracket rubbers flipped upside down and they fit nicely with that done i had to figure out the AN fittings (shall come back to this issue later)

I started mocking up the ducting for it all and got most of it made. Its not quite how i invisioned it but its what it is and its mainly because i have the hood vent im going to vs a huge opening in the hood. Maybe next time i can redo it and chop the hood vent out and make new ducting thats more open and not as tight in the top!??

I just have the front duct left for the intercooler and then i can look at getting it all wired up and hopefully soon to start it up!

AN fittings!!!!! Well i want to say that 20AN lines suck! So much so i have now decided to cut off the bungs and weld on straight connectors and i will be going back to silicone hose. Its just a pain in the ass working in a tight space with huge fittings and a hose thats very stiff. At least with silicone hose i have some flex and movement. Thankfully i can send most of the AN fittings back, even then i will save money LOL 20AN are not cheap. Dont get me wrong i wanted to use AN fittings but they are huge fittings and they did not line up well and if they did the small amount of hose would of likely caused me issues down the line

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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Ditched the AN fittings and bungs on the rad and IN on the EWP! Decided last night enough was enough and made some slip on joints to weld on and i actually got to machine down the 16/20 AN adaptor so that saves me money and time so its now ready to accept a hose. This is much easier and more space friendly.

Ordered the hoses not long ago so should be here tuesday and can finally get this sorted.

I also had to make another coolant recovery tank as i didnt look at that when i made the rad and it was very close to the intercooler piping also. Thankfully i had another pro-werks cap sitting around so used that and got it sitting over the intake pipe.

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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Well this is the last weekend at work on the car. I have done aload of work and finally finished the biggest fabrication on it.

The smaller things are just trimming and such now which i can do later at home in the garage and bring it into work if required.
So the next stages are to wire up the EWP fuel pumps and into the wireless system. I have to replumb the fire extinguisher since i removed that out of the engine bay.

Once thats all done im going to put on a basic tune and see what i can adjust for idle and then see about getting to a dyno for proper setting up. This means alot of reading and learning fast to hone the skills in.

So as of today this is where i have left work with. All the rad and intake system is now fully ducted from bumper ram to vent out the hood! I could not 100% seal every area completely or i wont be able to get anything out or even in so the areas that are open is small and likely to only leak a small amount vs the rest thats done.

I also redo the coolant pipes with silicone hoses, this was way easier and much nicer to work with. Thankfully the company took all my remaining fittings back for a refund.

Another thing on my list to do was refix the lower bumper and its droop. I used some spare alloy L extrusion and cut and welded it into shape and then bolted it on, this was such a good idea from my first attempt and now the whole bottom side is flat and rigid! I shall take that win as its forever bugged me this has.

Also after this month once i get paid i will also saved up enough for my car wrap from KPMF! So then i can get that sorted shortly as the last job to do.
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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Had all my powder coating back now so i can start to get it all together. Im onto the last lart of the wiring also which is wiring up the fuel level sender and gauge and final fuel pump. The rest has been done and wrapped up.

Not much pics to show or details since its just small bits done so far.

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ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Hey everyone, been a while for an update and its not from lack of wanting to but its lack of pictures and slow progress more then anything.
so currently i have it running on a base map and tune for the Evo and it idles nicely. I dont know why but i cannot get my new fuel pressure sensor to log correctly and not sure why as i have the right values listed and it does move but not to the 43.5psi it should be at!
I had 3 fuel leaks to fix which was fun but took another week for 2 fittings to come in as i mostly get weekends to work on the car and very little during the week! so another reason why its slow progress.

I rewired the front end as before wires where everywhere and ugly so i now mad my front bumper very quick release with 2 pin connectors for the lights.

upon testing the cars electrical system for the first time i noticed in link my fan was not turning on! weirdly enough both my rad fuses had blown and im not sure how or why! i replaced the fuses and its perfectly fine! so this was a mystery i yet to figure out as if it happens agin it would be nice to know the reasons to solve this.

today I got the wife to help me bleed the brakes LOL lucky her. now im dual masters it was easy and both tough to do. the fronts took no time at all but the rear was a pig to do, kept getting air and could not solve it but im running an inline tilton prop valve and it turns out i had it setup the wrong way so it was not bleeding it right so 20 mins after we reduced that all was good and happy once again. I then went around the whole car checking all the bolts and nuts underneath checking for looseness and doing up ones i needed to do and marking them off with the new torque specs as i went along as im very close to getting this back on the ground to move it finally after a long year and 2 months of it being off the road now.

stupid moment was last weekend where i could not select drive or any lower gears and it had me stumped and wondering if i screwed up the valve body rebuild or a shaft was not set right. but this felt mechanical rather then sensor or pressure and this weekend i decided to undo the shifter rod incase i misaligned that after i took it off to install the morrison fab brackets, but this turned out NOT to be the issue! want to know what was........ a bloody connector head!!!!!!!!! it was sitting upside down so all black and blocking the stop arm on the selector arm so once i move that out the way BINGO it now has all gears and tested in in all gears when the engine is on and its fine and dandy, works well, phew what a relief.

next week im going to go over the whole front enough in the bay and underneath one last time and then i will do a suspension setup and alignment and get the bodywork back on and hopefully shortly after go get myself a road worthy MOT which is our inspection we need to be able to drive on the roads legally.

also for your viewing is the latest video i just took of the new thin material system i build back in 2020 in the first covid lockdown. its now 1mm vs the previous 1.2mm wall so its thinner and thus lighter then before and sounds abit different also. excuse the whine noises those are just my dual inline 350LPH fuel pumps working away.

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familyMAN

Proven Member
339
125
Dec 6, 2011
Saint Anthony, Indiana
Nice work on all of the shrouding!!! Is the outlet of the radiator ducting going to be big enough?
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Nice work on all of the shrouding!!! Is the outlet of the radiator ducting going to be big enough?
Thanks. Yes it is, well should be from what i have read and been told. the inlet only needs to be about 1/3 the size of the core and it does taper bigger as it gets to the face of the intercooler as i was told to do so i hope its going to work! Time will tell and i can always re make if i find its not quite upto scratch
 

familyMAN

Proven Member
339
125
Dec 6, 2011
Saint Anthony, Indiana
Thanks. Yes it is, well should be from what i have read and been told. the inlet only needs to be about 1/3 the size of the core and it does taper bigger as it gets to the face of the intercooler as i was told to do so i hope its going to work! Time will tell and i can always re make if i find its not quite upto scratch
I'm talking about the outlet into the hood. The inlet looks correct.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I'm talking about the outlet into the hood. The inlet looks correct.
Arh i see. Sorry i read it wrong. The outlet was a concern at first. It is quite narrow i know and testing it with fans on shows it does work and push air out the hood. Not alot seems to get around the sides which is good so the sides are working. The bottom has small gaps where rain can fall through as i couod never have this fully sealed or i would never get the bugger on over the fans. Only time will tell how well it works and i will have to tuft it to truely see the effects i guess.

The few who run this exact vent have good results so the added direction should aid that and i hope take it a few steps further! Very worst case is i make it abit longer in the throat and have its opening nesrly as far back as the middle of the valve cover area / spark plug ports. This is very last resort as i had a mold made for this hood! As its carbon/kevlar its going to cost me alot to modify it and have another mold made up! So its something i wish to avoid currently but i will try my best to exhaust all other options first
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Just wanted to show after all this hard work that i have done thw DSM is on the ground now and it has had a very basic setup for now. glad to report it has all gears working after my rebuild of the valve body so im happy this is good as i was scared after watching peoples issues with the rebuild they did go wrong! Happy mine went smoothly and as i hoped. Im loosing the garage soon so i dont know exactly whats going to happen next. It might mean delays but i am hoping not. I might have to store it at my house for a bit till i can figure out something long term as i dont wish to keep this outside for much longer due to weather and such!
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BeatupVR4

Probationary Member
3
0
Mar 9, 2021
Nashua, New_Hampshire
I'm talking about the outlet into the hood. The inlet looks correct.

I'm with him. I love the route you're going with the car and excellent ideas but that outlet is way too small. Inlet can be around 1/4 of the surface area of the core but the outlet should be closer to 1/3. In it's current configuration it only looks to be about ~1/12th.

A tuft test won't give you the info you need. You'll want to pick up a cheap used magnehelic gauge on Ebay and measure how much pressure is in the rear duct area vs atmo. You could also do from the ducting in front to the ducting in the rear to calculate efficiency. Luckily you said it's not sealed up %100 so it can spill out the bottoms and sides if needed to help but obviously you want the air controlled and not filling up your engine bay.

Keep up the good work and massive effort.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,092
2,343
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
I'm with him. I love the route you're going with the car and excellent ideas but that outlet is way too small. Inlet can be around 1/4 of the surface area of the core but the outlet should be closer to 1/3. In it's current configuration it only looks to be about ~1/12th.

A tuft test won't give you the info you need. You'll want to pick up a cheap used magnehelic gauge on Ebay and measure how much pressure is in the rear duct area vs atmo. You could also do from the ducting in front to the ducting in the rear to calculate efficiency. Luckily you said it's not sealed up %100 so it can spill out the bottoms and sides if needed to help but obviously you want the air controlled and not filling up your engine bay.

Keep up the good work and massive effort.
When i said not fully sealed its because tubes and other parts in the way and its impossible to 100% seal it. If i had to redo it again i would opt for a smaller core width wise and lean it forward another 3" of so and then it would open it up to be more of a fully sealed up.

It might be a bit small i dont know. I watched videos on ducts and opening sizes and they all go small to big and big to small. So i tried to follow what they have suggested. It was about velocity and speeds, the smaller exit speeds it up and can pull more heat out. I dont know LOL i go some books on aero and ducting and tried to follow some that use smaller ducts then this that work wonders so im hoping i done some part of it right from others ideals. The fans alone push so much air over the top i can feel it on the roof! Not much air is getting into the engine area as i tried to feel around it so what small gaps i have got are luckily not leaking as much air as it may seem.

Time will tell if i need to redesign and rebuild
 
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