Road Race Build 2G Auto Time Attack race build!

[Fuchsig]

Is there still an original screw on your car? Next road trip must go to London!

 

[Maximuscr31]

That is awesome man.

 

[96dsmftw]

That's awesome! Showing them how to build a proper race car

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Is there still an original screw on your car? Next road trip must go to London!

There are a few still but honestly not many left i dont think. Haha

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Thanks all for the kind words.

Im going over the pictures today and sunday night I shall post up pictures of the car and its new vision, bodywork etc.

Its not 100% finished though just to note. I still need to finish off the front splitter and tidy up some bits of the car that did not come out so well

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

So this update could be a big one but I'm going to see about doing the main post and then in small sections adding the details as I go along as then it wont get over clogged with rambling and pics etc etc

So as previously I had rust issues and I resolved them with a lot of work and redesigning a lot of the bits also reinforcing things to even going tubular in the front end, this was a huge task as my plans were both tricky to do right then and also think of the future plans of the car so its a hard task and took a while to think about the best plan of action.

I wish to say that most of it is good and I do think I have a pretty good setup going forward with the choice of changes later on. the only exception to this is later on when I do upgrade turbos its going to be a bit tricky to fit it all in with the duct space so this is something I could not do right now.

While this was all going on I had to start on the bodywork and for about 6 months I was researching bodywork in racing from DTM and touring cars and super GT to super cars and converted racing versions to see what bodywork was good for the shape and flow of the DSM. The 2G is a nice rounded bodied chassis so I had to work with that to keep it going but I also wished to make sure it had a good edge to look aggressive also at the same time!
Without air data of the chassis I found what I liked and worked with what had been proven to work for other people and their tests show good results so it was a way forward for me. These designs that have worked for many previously just with different tweak's here and there.

Mine is a fairly simple design but was very tricky to execute! I don't have moulding skills nor the place to do such huge tasks and fiberglass work is not something I do a lot of. So I did have to keep it fairly simple in fabricating it but that turned out to be troublesome at the best of times! Some bits were easy and some were so tricky I had to redesign and remake multiple times to get it correct which took time, more money and wasted metal but it was a huge task and I had to learn at the same time I was doing this!!! A few times I was able to figure out a problem before hand while just sitting back and pre designing it in my head working out HOW TO do this and that etc etc.

So without going into a spiral effect of details I will just share the car and I will do a post in stages for you on each part and reason for it all etc etc!

SO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

here it is in all its glory! 90% finished is my 2G Time Attack AUTO race car build DSM.

 

[Maximuscr31]

What material did you use for the fenders?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

What material did you use for the fenders?

All aluminum, i will be going over it all bit by bit to explain it all

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Im going to start with the obvious part that makes this now stand out from everything else and thats the bodywork!

This was a huge task and tested my mind in design and forward thinking to many levels, But I had a vision and based upon many books I read and researched on the web, I found something that I liked that seemed to work well for the bodyshape and for the end result I was aiming for. If I had loads of money then it would be done to a much higher standard and even moulds made but this first step is A STEP and one I can work from here moving forward!

My inspiration is of course Time Attack but not just that but DTM also as the bodywork for that is crazy and awesome all wrapped up in one. so with this I set forward to a task and a half with this.

SO..... with that said, The entire body panels are now made from aluminum sheet, they were bent, formed, rolled, welded, riveted, cut up, scrapped, remade, sometime hammered then etched and lacquered for a gloss clear coat for the wrap so a fair amount of work involved. planning it was was tricky as I had to start at 1 point and move forward with this and design that first! so I started with the side skirts.

Side skirts had 2 redesigns due to not being able to do my original plan of 2 piece sections so had to go to 3 in the end for ease. not a problem but I wasted a good chunk of sheet here so Thankfully I had enough spare incase this happened. This was also a structural point so needed to be strong to take weight and support the rest PLUS the sills needed to support this also. my trick here was using riv nuts along the whole length of the sills and then had the metal bent in such a way that it rested along ALL of the remainder of the sill to support its own weight, this was critical to get right as a starting point as if it did not support itself then the rest would fail!
the top was now its own part due to double curvature and while this does also self support its not nearly as much as the bottom part but as a whole it boxes the lot in so creates a strong support by design. ( I can stand on this and jump on it and it barely move )

After the sides were done I moved onto the front wings and arches!, previously I had modified some other fenders and welded the wheel coverings on but I ended up not liking this plus I cut them and it raised the arch too much for me. im lowered but not a huge amount. So this time I simply attached the fender cover onto the factory arch in location and this is fine for me and my suspension setup and done not foul plus looks better not being higher up. This is also cut to fold inwards to help push the air from inside the well outwards. Later I need to panel the insides to help stop air from getting trapped in behind the fender now its plastic panels are now removed. Then I got onto the wheel air extraction part and I choose a design based on a few pics I found while searching the web and while you can make some fancy parts here I opted for a simplified version but with the option to later add inserts to deflect more. ( I likely will need to anyway since my rules state your not allowed a full tire to be seen above a certain height and that's for stones flicking out ) so I got some plans for this later on. I had the side skirt tie into this for support and also flow from under the car into the extractors and out. but the end result was nice and I really love the flow of this and was a proud moment once I did this stage!

The rear arches were last and fairly simple, they mounted to the skirts and then tapered out at the rear to take away the sharp edges.

once all this was made it was all removed and prepped for painting, the under side got a heavy duty stone chip paint as per the rest or the chassis did in the same product so stop the alloy wearing and also corrosion resistance.
the top sides got a nice pre sand, etch primer to eat into the alloy and prevent paint lifting and then finally clear coat in gloss and this was because the wrap likes a gloss surface vs dull very matte surface.

It got wrapped and then sat in the garage for a while till the car came home and got finished enough to install the parts at once.

This part of the journey was LONG but was a crucial part of the end result progress. I was told a few times I should get the AMBV2 kit and while I could of saved up for it I actually wanted to take this task on to stand out and be totally different to what I think is ANY other 2G DSM out there currently for racing.

Thanks for reading this post and if you got any questions about specifics then please ask and I can hopefully remember it all to shed some light on it.

 

[sonicc]

This thing is badass. Need some videos of it turning laps

 

[spyderdrifter]

Updates?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Updates?

meh. not massively, its a LONG story. I then lost interest because of the long story and then between that and work and DSM development work i lost even more interest. BUT I am progressing with it now.

I will do an update sometime next week for the build page and give a run down etc

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Ok so updates… I will spread these out so I dont start to overload 1 post and turn it into 1 LONG post and bore you all, plus makes it easier for me to keep up to date and time wise as right now times limited anyway and I am even having to resort to using word as I spread it over days to write one post


SO… back in 2022 was the last update properly. I WON a car show FIRST time being out and actually useable car! Tuning was going great, made decent power and everything seemed to be all in check so that was a plus to the whole learning to tune and finally have a working car.


What happened after the show and where did I GO???


I was messaged by Luda here on tuners about a UK company wanting an Eclipse to sound record the engine and exhaust for a new game, AKA NFS unbound. I jumped straight onto that and after some pictures and calls the HQ loved the car and sounds and approved me for the car of choice!


This was to be held at a test facility in the UK but I was not allowed to drive the car! They were insistent on their own racing driver who only had a race license 2 above mine in class! But he was a factory driver NOT a car like mine that’s very custom! But I allowed it to proceed. We did have discussions on this as the sounder guy in charge really wanted me to drive my car but he was over ruled by HQ!


The day before the event day the sound guy comes around and sets up the car with mics and wires all over, Exhaust – intake – Bov – Engine. You name it they wanted it all for the game!

This was funny as the next day I drove over an hour to the facility and people were staring at me wondering WTF is that guy up to

The car already got attention now from the wild aero and color and cars stopped to take pictures but now I had mics and wires and loads of tape stuck to the car which was very different for any car to see on the roads.


Cutting a long story short I give the driver a briefing and he was all ok and said he understood but later on decides to shift into 1st gear at 33MPH basically money shifting it and destroying the engine! I told him NOT to do this as its not a transmission designed to do such things like a sequential box is made to do and NOT at high speeds either! Pulling away gear only really!


This was the end of the day after this problem and I had to get a tow back home to dig into this further to see how bad the damage was.

The following weekend I took the pan off to find 1 spun badly and 2-3 were bad and 4 was pretty good but had wear. So it had 100% spun bearings and engine was trashed. Crank was gone but nothing else was damaged thankfully.


I then left it sitting for some time as I lost interest quite abit after all that work I put in to the build but at this time i was working on making DSM parts more and more so time was very limited anyway and I put a lot more time into that vs my own car! BUT I did get some motivation back during the time in which will be for the NEXT posts to follow…..

 

[spyderdrifter]

Unless you're already planning it for the next post, did they compensate you for their retarded driver?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Unless you're already planning it for the next post, did they compensate you for their retarded driver?

I will touch on this a bit in the next post. I wont go into all the depths so will do my best to keep it simple and basic. Shall try for another update this week if possible

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I will do more updates but have this for now... but I stopped working on the car along time ago (basically lost interest) and working on making parts for you all. Now I need to move on this so here is a peek at what to expect!

But Its moving along!!!

 

[Kryndon]

That gold will match the other goldy bits so nice Bobby! What paint or spray did you use? I highly suggest, if you used a spray can, to go and buy a brush on-paint something like a 3 in 1 Protecta or Eastwood or similar. Those paints end up much better coats over the blocks and look more thick and glossy. I'm sure you can find a paint like that in the same gold color, and it's really easy to paint 1-2 coats with a small brush. I did this on my RB20 and 6A13 and they came out great! The rattle can paints tend to flake and burn off much quicker.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

That gold will match the other goldy bits so nice Bobby! What paint or spray did you use? I highly suggest, if you used a spray can, to go and buy a brush on-paint something like a 3 in 1 Protecta or Eastwood or similar. Those paints end up much better coats over the blocks and look more thick and glossy. I'm sure you can find a paint like that in the same gold color, and it's really easy to paint 1-2 coats with a small brush. I did this on my RB20 and 6A13 and they came out great! The rattle can paints tend to flake and burn off much quicker.

This is a proper 2k engine paint and was in a can. Its higher temps and can withstand heat cycles nicely. I had to check with them before ordering to be sure. Its a very similar coating to the caliper paints i used on my daily and thats showing good results. So hopefully this is the same result (fingers crossed)

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

New video progress of the cylinder head and some new parts I made along the way. When doing the workings on the specs we decided to not use shims as its not great and some needed 2 and thats a no no from me.

So in the end I decided new spring seats had to be made to be exact over all springs to make it perfect! Plus I had some better washers made up for the L19 head studs as the ARP washers are super small and wont load spread over the holes well enough. Long term this can cause the holes to recess and create a tension loss / lifting effect as its tapers out over time! Not whats healthy for the engine. This new washers were made up.

Video chats through it but might be nice to see in video form vs pictures. (I will later add some as part of the build anyway)

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Stuffs happening.....

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Started getting the bolts done up to spec. Looking amazing now and shame its going to all be hidden away!

Ran into an issue with a kiggly part for the trigger wheel sensor bracket. Basically not ready for the 12-1 tooth yet but bracket can go in ahead of time to be ready! (So im not the first to use this setup, pump, trigger wheel setup etc but i dont see it noted as an issue or needing to tweak the kiggly part) so once in the hydro tensioner is jamming up against the bracket and i put a shim behind it which basically shows me a 1mm clashing issue. (0.9mm to be more exact) So i will need to file down the kiggly housing to stop this clashing issue. ** I have reached out to kiggly also ** just to ask this if its a known issue or not as i would be shocked to learn i found this issue but if so then great! Im glad my checks are proper and can help make a product better.

Other then that its all going nicely and fitment is all ok now with the pan being dinked to fit over the arp studs due to the pans recess but all in all is looking and going together great!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Bout time I update this now. I have skipped some bits so I will go back and re cover before but for now this is what your getting .

So I managed to finally get the engine finished and find time and weather to install it, recently its been either raining or super cold on the weekends and while today was cold it was manageable and dry!

My plans for today was to get the head on and i managed that, but I should of been able to do more but i ran into some snags along the way, plus near 2 years away from it I took my time as remembering bolts and locations etc all took its toll on my mind

* 1 thing I never saw or read up on was the kiggly racing flex plate issue! This was a new one and even on their site does not state TC bolt issues with starter motor being an issue. So I guess i found out and could not pre solve this issue! So just to clarify the thicker flex plate DOES foul the starter motor locating lip/ring! And this needs trimming down some. On stock bolts its not alot, about 0.5mm but I am going to do a bit more as im using some custom made bolts that use more threads in the TC for strength and a slightly thicker head thickness but oem still jammed on the starter motor and thats what 99% of people would be using anyway. My bolts gain an extra 3mm of threads or there abouts and im taking every thread possible to help! Had this of been listed I could of for seen this and then adjusted the StarterMotor to suit before meaning thats a job done and not having to be worked out later on. It happens i guess but thicker plates create their own issues along the way. No biggie its just part of the build process.

Other than that it all went in smoothly and slowly. Im about ready for the manifolds to go on now. New studs are installed and ready for those.

I shall work on timing next to get that setup ready and preset and allow to sit and settle. Then when the time comes to prime the engine i can press the tensioner down to remove the belt and spin the pump by drill to lube the entire system up. But before that I got a lot more to do!

New fuel lines are being swapped in to 8AN from 6AN. Some are old and stiff so now is a good time to refresh them ones.
The Billet oil pump now needs reworking for the lines and also external remote OFH! This is still unknown as to location yet but I have some ideas but nothing concrete yet.

I need to remove the fuel tank/cell and remove the old fuel, inspect the foam inside and if all is good im going to recoat the frame as it got a little bit of rust on it and the thats able to go back on again with the new lines made up.

One other thing to remove and swap out is the OLD oil cooler. Since the bearing spun its now trash. So a new one must be installed and all oil lines cleaned up also as part of this swap. Shame as these setrab coolers are expensive but it happens and its a small price to pay for a much more expensive engine!

I need to relocate the battery also from the footwell to behind the passenger seat as the wife finds it annoying to sit sideways and to be fair its not the most ideal place really. Behind the passenger seat is much better and Im looking st swapping out the PC680 with an Anti-gravity restart ATX-20 which is close to the same size and same cranking amps. This should be enough still. Needs a new case to house it and of course my ctek charge will no longer work as its Not a Lithium charger, this maybe something i look into once its done and possibly started, this will take me a bit to get it how i want it and times limited currently.


Next post I will touch on the build of the engine a bit and the issues I found along the way with that! Then I will circle back and try to catch up from the beginning as you might tell from the gaps. Its been a bit of a not interested project since it happened and i stuck my head into making DSM parts instead. But I am back to being productive on my own car once again finally


One last thing is I got to finally ise my new product I made up! These are simple head washers but use a slightly thicker, stronger material and also MOST of the recess gap for MAXIMUM load spreading! Stock arp washers are smaller in OD and can distort the head material! Not ideal so this was something I looked into and decided these would help spread the loads better and use all the material possible! The TMZ dowels were an option and I have them! But discussing with the 3 engine builders (1 in the evo sector) he has not needed them but does understand boost levels play a role on it. For me however its cost effective to go this route so I had some larger washers made up for this reason. It will do far more then the stock arl washers ever will and no expensive head boring/counter boring. You can see the OD is much larger and spreads the load better.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Worked on the engine more today.

Got the starter motor shaved down. So Im using the kiggly racing torque plate and did not know the starter would foul as nothings mentioned online. Using stock bolts it was fouling a good 0.5mm. never came across this before but I get its thicker so maybe a problem. However I ended up shaving more off the starter motor as I ended up using some of my custom shaved down bolts instead which uses more threads in the TC and also thicker heads so since i had to modify it i wanted to change it up some.

Today I got the intake on and all mounted up. Then I worked on swapping the old oil cooler as the cooler would be full of bearing material bit I could not find my foam so thats now on order ready to finish the install.

Timings now preset and ready. Since this is done I can now work on the biller oil pump lines to make sure its all safe and out the way of everything.

Then something happened .. Open up my rci/southbay fuel filter to find the glue had cracked and lodged into the filter! Its not even that old! Its had less then 2k miles on the thing! So disappinted on that quality. So with that a new filter/brand will be put in place. Im leaning towards a check valve radium filter, mostly to help keep pressure up as the dual IL pumps tend to leak pressure a bit. And im not wanting more glue breaking on me so no longer going to run the rci/south bay stuff. I think they used aeromotive filters as they used the regulators and spares so also means no aeromotive for me of quality is poor.

Im prepping the fuel lines for 8AN now so i removed all the 6AN lines remaining. Then i ran out of light and time.

Hopefully if all arrives during the week i can get the rest done.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Its been very poor weather here over the last few weeks and i have been rained out a few weekends which sucks! Its still very cold and other cars needing to be worked on has made this slow progress but its moving just slowly!

This weekend i was able to spend a whole 1.5 days on it! Woop freezing my ass off mind but it had to get done!

The new oil cooler in mounted in place with its new foam for sealing it in. Since i had bearing material this had to be replaced and scrapped so is not going to get cleaned and flushed and become my wall art as a reminder NEVER trust a professional Porsche racing driver to touch my car again!!!!! Utter useless they are

So coolers in! Then i got the intake side all on and mounted (actually done a few weekends ago now) and yesterday got the turbo and manifold back on!

After that I got connecting many things back up that I can for now.

All new 8AN lines are now inplace! Got sent the wrong size ptfe line for the return (the fitting is super tight so only abke to use ptfe line here) so its to clear the timing cover up top and banjo was removed due to poor flow and a restriction vs a full flow one. I always had some feeling banjo was an issue with my pressures many many years ago. So this will hopefully get sent out this week for me.

I then need to make a bracket for this HUGE MOFO of an OFH!!! These filters are gigantic... So Im opting to mount it by the EWP infront of the drivers wheel well plastics as its next to the cooler and least amount of line length required so keeps it nice and tight and very easy to remove the filter without mess! The bracket is the last step and then i can make lines up and thats it!!!

Pop some break in oil in fresh fluids and im about ready for its first start up! So I best get my laptop out snd chsrged when it happens so its all logged!

Hoping its all ok and idles alright. Only things are higher compression and S2 cams so should be able to handle that idle just fine on the tune it had on it as that was pretty good, made good power and values were pretty spot on as i took some good time to get them right.

Oh and a little sample of the next product (ALT) im working on for the high rev peeps! I know im going to require this so i designed this one to help as anything last 7.5-8k it struggles and i plan to go much higher!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

When rebuilding my rotors as they sat for a while so needed a clean and some fresh hardware I grabbed some stock FWD rotors and whats normally the upgrade of Evo rotors!

The size difference is crazy! Weighs less than the 320mm rotor too!