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Road Race Build 1990 Eclipse GSX Time Attack Build

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sbiggi

20+ Year Contributor
583
61
Jan 10, 2005
Elizabeth, Colorado
I've had this car since 2002 or 2003 when it was stock.
Originally modded for just more power and drag racing, then I was just breaking axles and gears every time out to the drag strip so I quite and started doing open lap days.
Best quarter mile was 11.2 @ 126mph on the sc6152e back in 2010 or something.
Did 151mph in the half mile in 2015.
Now I'm topping out 4th gear at 148mph on our local road course High Plains Raceway

Can see all my mods in my vehicle profile
Current setup highlights for road racing:
BC coilovers revalved by RedShift Motorsports, 14KG front springs, 12kg rear springs
Evo8 Brembo with upgraded stainless steel pistons, titanium shims, gloc R16 pads front, r10 pads rear, girodisc rotors
Evo8 rear differential
Evo8 wheels
Since no one posts alignment specs: Front: -3.5 degrees camber, .04 toe out Rear: -2.5, 0 toe

Edit:
Dyno pull from a month ago


Open lap day testing last month:


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Last edited:
Looks great! How often are you getting it out these days? Future plans?
I make it out to most the races for Rocky Mountain SCCA Time trials. Next one is on Mothers Day.

Future plans, twin disc clutch because these ACT puck clutches are only lasting a year and I have the NEAT Gearbox gears on order. Then I can turn the power up if I feel like it.
Probably more hood vents. Car runs hotter with the splitter on, stays plenty cool with it off. I'd like to be able to run multiple hot laps without the car getting hot.

I made 650whp (corrected, 1.22 CF) at 25psi which is what I plan on running it at this year. Made 718whp at 31psi.
 
This past month I had the ECU repaired after discovering the boost solenoid driver was toast when I changed over to a EBC controlled with ECMlink and it wasnt working.
Was tuning the boost when the clutch started dragging at high rpm.

Replaced another falling apart 6 puck clutch. Was running a Comp disc but I have the same issue with ACT disc, 4 or 6 puck, sprung or unsprung.
They all fail this way. They hold the power but then start dragging
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Added a 6an vent to the transfer case since it looked like it was seeping fluid out the breather

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Filled it back up with Motul 300 in the trans and Redline heavy weight in the transfer case
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How do you like the RedShift coilovers?
I also have them for the 2G, 14K front 10k rear.

Haven't had the car on track enough just yet to experience the full range of the capabilities.
 
How do you like the RedShift coilovers?
I also have them for the 2G, 14K front 10k rear.

Haven't had the car on track enough just yet to experience the full range of the capabilities.

They seem to work better then the BC valving. Hard to quantify it since I never seem to make only one change at a time.
I was having a issue of the front end seemed to jack down over each bump when in compression.
Having Redshift revalve them helped a lot to keep the splitter off the ground but not completely, so I changed to stiffer springs which then took care of that.
 
Probably a competitive advantage - suck in all the air and there's less for the cars around you on the track to ingest. :D
You gotta be sucking in half the neighborhood with that air filter ... 😳🫨 Nice car!
Ya my buddy said my last filter looked small, so I bought the biggest one I could fit. Helps it stay cleaner longer too.
 
Just saw your post about your temps getting pretty hot. My old PWR radiator did pretty well but I still struggled with higher temps - it's not easy to keep things cool at a high plains desert road course with a turbocharged car and a huge FMIC. My plan was to try to create ducting to ensure air was going through the FMIC and radiator and not escaping on the sides, and then try to direct as much of it as I could up through the hood vent.

The tricky part for you is that your exhaust manifold is bigger than what I had, making it more tricky to do that. I never completed my vision for that ducting project but I had some fairly unique things started to clear out a little bit of space to do it before I moved on from it.
 
Just saw your post about your temps getting pretty hot. My old PWR radiator did pretty well but I still struggled with higher temps - it's not easy to keep things cool at a high plains desert road course with a turbocharged car and a huge FMIC. My plan was to try to create ducting to ensure air was going through the FMIC and radiator and not escaping on the sides, and then try to direct as much of it as I could up through the hood vent.

The tricky part for you is that your exhaust manifold is bigger than what I had, making it more tricky to do that. I never completed my vision for that ducting project but I had some fairly unique things started to clear out a little bit of space to do it before I moved on from it.
Ya the packaging on my manifold... could be tighter. Even with that, there is just no room with a manifold and turbo sitting there to duct it the right way.
I am just going to focus on making the ducting better in front of the intercooler and sealing the whole front up so air is only coming in through the intercooler area.

Also going to ditch this mishimoto, but that wont happen till end of summer or over the winter.
 
Rebuilt my splitter, 20 hours or so of work. Basically the exact same as before. Although I moved the placement of the support rods in the fender so they were easier to access.
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Other then that I didnt do anything to the car.
Ran a race at High Plains Raceway. It was 83-89 air temp, car was running too hot.
I boiled off a half gallon of coolant unbeknown to me. After last session car didnt come down in temp as much on the cool down and then in the pit it was getting hot at idle.
Any who, my driving sucked, I keep braking way too much. So I was a little slower then i wanted to be. Car makes too much power. I was hitting 148 mph down the back straight pretty easy.

Video of my best lap


and a video from first session that has the ecu data overlay. Was only a little slower.
 
Cut the bumper up to expose the intercooler all the way. I think the angle behind the bumper was too steep and just producing a vortex of stagnant air.

Also added gurney flap to the center hood vent. We'll see how it does at the track in month.

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Cut the bumper up to expose the intercooler all the way. I think the angle behind the bumper was too steep and just producing a vortex of stagnant air.

Also added gurney flap to the center hood vent. We'll see how it does at the track in month.

View attachment 769457
One thing I thought about doing once a while back, was putting a small fan at the base of the hood vent to pull air out. I don't know that it would help much, but it could make up for any pressure and heat build up that is being too stubborn to exit through the vent. Just because the vent is there, doesn't mean the hot air is necessarily moving through it, since there are other pathways for it to go.
 
One thing I thought about doing once a while back, was putting a small fan at the base of the hood vent to pull air out. I don't know that it would help much, but it could make up for any pressure and heat build up that is being too stubborn to exit through the vent. Just because the vent is there, doesn't mean the hot air is necessarily moving through it, since there are other pathways for it to go.
I'm going to seal up the whole front and make duct between the blinkers so air is only coming in through the radiator. I m sure the vent flows more then a fan could, but I have zero room anyways. Had to notch the vent to clear the manifold.
 
Cut some foam to stuff into the bumper and behind the blinkers to keep the air from spilling out. Removed the horizontal piece from the upper rad support hood latch area and cutout the hood latch stuff off the hood so it wasn't blocking flow.
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Also put in a 22 psi cap to keep the water from boiling
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Cut some foam to stuff into the bumper and behind the blinkers to keep the air from spilling out. Removed the horizontal piece from the upper rad support hood latch area and cutout the hood latch stuff off the hood so it wasn't blocking flow.
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Also put in a 22 psi cap to keep the water from boiling
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I remember contemplating removing that piece but was worried I didn't have enough support for the FMIC... I should have just added some extra support and removed it.
 
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