The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Join the Community!

    DSMtuners is a massive archive of DSM information - but more importantly, it's a COMMUNITY! Join in and participate with other DSMers, and invite all of your DSM friends to make this place their home. Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers. Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. ;) It will also allow you to view images in threads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Road Race Build 2G Auto Time Attack race build!

Year
1997
Model/Trim
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Yes I need the muffler, it used to be my DD but now it’s my weekend worrier, I want to keep away unwanted people which here in Calif. is freaking strictly when it comes to noise and stuff.

I’m more of having fun with it but at the same time, keep it my way or the way I would love to see it (appearance wise).

I will look down there again to see if I can manage to make it work, I have a Varex which is huge compare to others, but hope I can manage to make it work.
But can you not have the muffler before the subframe? It will still donits job but means less bulk to mess sround with in the back end,

You just got to get very creative and think of the impossible which is not always easy to do
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Wish you and I were local to each other. I'd have a lot of welding work for you. :hellyeah: Great work.
I bet you would!i get told alot they wish i was near by for a pop in haha. Im not abke to be everywhere though! I wish as traveling would be fun. The DSM traveler LOL
 

miguelmcv

Supporting Member
2,717
240
May 3, 2009
Fresno, California
But can you not have the muffler before the subframe? It will still donits job but means less bulk to mess sround with in the back end,

You just got to get very creative and think of the impossible which is not always easy to do

Haaa, actually that’s a good idea, I. Never thought on that,:applause: I’m going to see how that will look, hope it does fit, I will be them happy if it fit.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Decided to put the hood on for now and i will reslreay it at a later date with a proper spray gun and paint. Not gonna waste time and money on cans that dont do good. It looks nice in the pics but the chap next door saw the hood and sai he could see the surface finish is not great. So thank riolett for some expensive half working cans LOL

It looks good with the vent and today i started cutting up the fenders so i might be able to get those back on shortly. Shall see how time goes

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Well i got my refund from the 2K spray can place. So i decided ro jump on it since they had them back in stock (just) but i got a paint gun kit. I added an extra gun and nozzle size so i have a wider range of use.

I got
2, hoses
1, filter/water trap
1, additional water trap pre gun
1, 1.3mm gun
1, 1.8mm gun
1, 1.4mm nozzle kit for one of the guns

I dont currently have alot of spare time for this yet but it gives me time to find some paint thats good quality

I shall get open pics of the actual guns on the weekend. They feel really nice and was not expensive at all and the reviews online from people who spray as a job/living say they do a good job for the price

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Some pics of the guns and extra nozzle. Nothing fancy but mainky just to show the guns. The proof eill be in the pudding once painted

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Those are really nice guns. How big is the air compressor you are going to use? I have a small one and didn’t keep up, I paint some panels and it end up like wrinkle paint.
Its a small compressor. Maybe 80 liters from memory. It handles an impact gun and other air tools ok and gives it a good go but for those they use a bunch of air.

Because these guns are low pressure and cfm i should hopefully be ok but i really wont know till i do it. So i am hoping its going to be ok
 

NWHTanK

Proven Member
1,290
185
Apr 23, 2011
Odessa, Missouri
For painting you should be using a 80 gallon with a 2 stage compressor with the highest cfm you can find. The smaller the storage tank size along with smaller compressor size it will run longer and pressure and cfm will vary throwing off your gun settings. The compressor will generate a lot more heat since it will thier will be more demand on it and cause alot more wear on the compresor. So change the oil more frequently. Also invest in a good quality water/air separator and a oil/air separator this is a must. When running a small compressor it generates a lot more heat with that, the hot air cools and creates more condensation and the compresor tolerances change quite a bit from continuous use,so thier will be more oil in the air line. Don't skimp on filtration especially with a smaller compresor. And the filtration should be before the the airline to keep the airline oil and water free as possable.
 

pagosa dsm

Proven Member
391
16
May 7, 2005
pagosa springs, Colorado
Well i got my refund from the 2K spray can place. So i decided ro jump on it since they had them back in stock (just) but i got a paint gun kit. I added an extra gun and nozzle size so i have a wider range of use.

I got
2, hoses
1, filter/water trap
1, additional water trap pre gun
1, 1.3mm gun
1, 1.8mm gun
1, 1.4mm nozzle kit for one of the guns

I dont currently have alot of spare time for this yet but it gives me time to find some paint thats good quality

I shall get open pics of the actual guns on the weekend. They feel really nice and was not expensive at all and the reviews online from people who spray as a job/living say they do a good job for the price
that is an air tool quality water trap. Spray quality would be made by Sharpe
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
For painting you should be using a 80 gallon with a 2 stage compressor with the highest cfm you can find. The smaller the storage tank size along with smaller compressor size it will run longer and pressure and cfm will vary throwing off your gun settings. The compressor will generate a lot more heat since it will thier will be more demand on it and cause alot more wear on the compresor. So change the oil more frequently. Also invest in a good quality water/air separator and a oil/air separator this is a must. When running a small compressor it generates a lot more heat with that, the hot air cools and creates more condensation and the compresor tolerances change quite a bit from continuous use,so thier will be more oil in the air line. Don't skimp on filtration especially with a smaller compresor. And the filtration should be before the the airline to keep the airline oil and water free as possable.
im not looking for a pro job and the comp is old and i will be getting a new one at some point for the new shed but for now im just going to see what this does. the filteration is a 2 stage but seperate as it collects on the entry to the gun and then half way in the lines so it gives it ample time to cool down. one day i will get a really nice screw compressor but right now its not in the budget nor space allows currently
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Not much done to this for a while, getting it prepped this weekend as this week should be the week i get to bring the car into work and start the repairs on the sills and such. Got lots to do and weld in, list which include

* Pedal base bosses to bolt the pedal box i made to the floor
* Rear boss for the frame rail for my fuel tank mounting
* Rear under brace for the frame rail (above subframe) mine corroded away so making a bolt in unit instead
* Finish off my tube steel wing mount/upright and trailing brace for the middle of the upright
* Weld panels onto the sills and make good again
* Replace metal on the rear trailing arm mount and also reinforce it to the chassis more

Prepare and make aero body panels (splitter/sides/rear diffuser, maybe tunnel, not decided on which one yet.
Front fenders are now finished again as i decided to redo them on my red ones from the car, now i just have to paint it all once done.


In my prep stage i decided to put on what i currently have of my redesigned bumpsteer kit aka V2. I still need to make the stainless spacers for the shaft but the rest is complete and zinc plated. It will work for now turning.

The rear im just waiting on some rodends to come in as this design will also be used on the back. A few reasons i wanted to redo this and its been on my list for a while now. Glad i finally got around to it and get it nearly complete

Once i start getting the bodywork done pics will be flying in as is do it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Yeah. Hopefully tomorrow. Planning on balancing the car and aligning it. So maybe we can squeeze it in there somewhere.
Best make time for them to go in. You will be glad you put them in
 

EVLGSX

Proven Member
657
249
Dec 7, 2017
Wallingford, Connecticut
Some pics of the guns and extra nozzle. Nothing fancy but mainky just to show the guns. The proof eill be in the pudding once painted

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If I had to buy a new gun right now, I dont know what I would do. Ive been using the same Devilbiss (GTi Millennium Edition) for over 15 years and have never had a gun with a better feel. I know 2 other guys who do this just as much as I do who say the exact same thing.

Make sure you have a strong air supply and make sure that air is clean & dry. Things can go wrong in a hurry costing you both time and money.

Surprised you attempted an entire hood with cans........you will be much happier now if you can get a good setup going for the gun.

In case you are unsure, 1.3 is good for all base/clear

1.8 would be for mud. Good luck!
 
Last edited:

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Bump stear kit.....:pray: and front and rear upper arms... :D Wait a min ¿¿¿¿ No tube front subframe ??? Not installed yet???
And stock sway bars??? Chop Chop.
Yeah yeah i also lag behind LOL i got all the frame bits made just not got a decent time to make it.
The sway bar sill stay stock as i dont need an up graded one. So i may paint that.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
If I had to buy a new gun right now, I dont know what I would do. Ive been using the same Devilbiss (GTi Millennium Edition) for over 15 years and have never had a gun with a better feel. I know 2 other guys who do this just as much as I do who say the exact same thing.

Make sure you have a strong air supply and make sure that air is clean & dry. Things can go wrong in a hurry costing you both time and money.

Surprised you attempted an entire hood with cans........you will be much happier now if you can get a good setup going for the gun.

In case you are unsure, 1.3 is good for all base/clear

1.8 would be for mud. Good luck!
Dont know whyni never saw this post so im sorry for not replying sooner!

The nozzle size is relevent for the fluid, so the 1.8 is for primers and thick undercoats, 1.3 for base coat paint and 1.4 is for laquer although 1.3 still does well so im told for both base and clear coat. The nozzle kit was not that much more to add so grabbed it for the heck of it.

I have used cans for years on big panels and always been pretty decent but i guess the last few years since i have not sprayed anything the quality of the cans went way down hill!

Im now looking for a huge compressor for the shed as im slowly getting it ready for full usage and welding etc but i might spray the bits at work since i have other body work to now paint and thats a hydrovain screw compressor and wont run out on me.
 

ec17pse

Freelancer
5,122
2,352
Nov 1, 2008
London, UK, Europe
Been a while but i finally have some good news to post up about the car and its fixes finally!

Monday night the chap down the road helped me out and collected my car with me on a loader, luckily i had the bumper off as it wouod not of made it on otherwise and it just missed my oil and trans coolers by about 2mm LOL. Also the tow hooks work as this was the first time using them. I knew they would but its always nice to see them in action.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


My wheels were too big for his straps so we had to go through the wheels for this trip but fear not as i went and bought my own set now as i will need them anyway and they fit over 20" wheels and my width just fine. Reviews said and showed a lambo fits these straps so mine certainly will also.

Friday night after work i got our forktruck and towed it into the workshop ready for today and tomorrow (sat+sun)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Fun plans for this weekend are fixing the holes i made from cutting the rust out of the inner and outer sills.

so i started the morning welding my chassis rail mounts for my fuel tank frame so now that its 100% complete and abke to hold itself up now strap free, the holes are drilled for the fuel filler pipe and filler vent and roll over vent which is through the bodywork.

After that was done i moved onto the drivers side sills which so happens to be the better side of the car! I opted to do this first since its going to be simpler and i could in theory do it faster and find a way to work in a small area first.
So this is where i got to currently at the end of the day,
The inner sill is fully welded, the outer sill is tacked on ready to be welded tomorrow morning,
The trailing arm mount is welded with new 3mm steel for strength back and bottom as that all pitted and had holes in it, the mount is also chassis reinforced as i thought this was a good idea a while ago so i started seeing the best way to do this and came up with this outer one and 1 on the inside (to be added) towards under chassis rail. This will give all kinda of pulling and sideways support and it gets rid of all the flimsy oem material which just likes to collect water and rot! This opens it all up so zero collection of water.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Im no expert on bodywork so this is pushing my skill set somewhat! Im a good welder and i have an idea but panel beating etc is out of my knowledge base but overall i think it came out pretty well for a days work! Yes i did not get the rear to be curved like the oem is but i dont have those kind of tools at work nor a roller so i had to use what my brain thought was best which was a round tube on a flypress to make the curve of the sill, then i welded the end on after for a bit of strength. This will all be covered up anyway so its never going to be super as oem was and my main goal is to get it to pass my yearly inspection and be strong and fresh once again. I chose to do a little redesign and change material size. Inner sill is now 2mm thick and outer sill is now 1.2mm thick which both are thicker then what they used, no reason for this other then a bit of extra strength and thicker stuff takes alot longer to rust then wafer thin stuff!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The passenger side is being started sunday and hopefully can get that side fully done in 1 day now i know how to do it.
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Feal Suspension Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com OHM Racing Raven Fabrication RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing SouthBay Fuel Injectors STM Tuned VR Speed Factory

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Top