Road Race Build 2G Auto Time Attack race build!

[miguelmcv]

Nice job, Have you confirm clearance? , hope it doesn’t hit the starter, looks like it will be to close to it.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Nice job, Have you confirm clearance? , hope it doesn’t hit the starter, looks like it will be to close to it.

Thats why its over to 1 side as i noticed the starter was in the way some. When i held it in place i got the rough idea of location but i shall see if i got my measurements right or if i have to make it again .

 

[tunernewb92]

I'm assuming this would hit the AC compressor though.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I'm assuming this would hit the AC compressor though.

What A/C that went years ago

 

[tunernewb92]

Well yeah but I wanted to steal the idea or convince you to make another set. But I refuse to give up AC

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Some decent progress today. The westher was choppy and rain on and off all day with finisbing in sun so i just stuck to the engine parts today since thats what i can do inside the garage.

The intake manifold is great! The fitment of the coilpacks is spot on and leaves me with a fingers gap between the starter and coilpack end, the only pita is getting the plug wires on was not the easiest but i bare take them off anyway, i also converted them ready for the inverted signal for V3 ecmlink. Injectors are in which had to be placed in reverse as the connector fouls the head which once installed i think i remember reading about that issue ages ago, years ago in fact.

My map sensor bracket fits nicely on the throttle cable bracket and still allows adjustment of that cable.

Once the intake was on i decided to look into the auto dipstick tube as its kinda in my way for intercooler piping so i mocked it up and i can convert this one so i am going to cut it in half and rotate it to face inwards just under the fusebox which then opens up awhole load of room since i now also installed the morrison fab shifter brackets.
This then led me to look into the pathway and i am going to order a 90° reducing coupler for the TB as it will make it more compact then having a longer 90 tube, i considered a 45 but looked like it was going to face more towards the fusebox then beside it but i can re check this tomorrow as the couplers i use are kinds expensive mainky because of the quality of them. Its either that or i go and weld a quick release vband type deal on but they might be even more expensive. Shall look this over more before i buy.

My last piece i managed to get installed was my bracket for my tilton res and brake lines running through the old booster hole. This was tricky and had to ask for a hand to hold the bolt while i got upside down in the car and did the nuts up, thankfully this should never have to come off again.

All in all it was a pretty productive day and if we still got bad weather tomorrow im going to finish removing the rear window for my nee poly unit and jack the front up and do some work under there.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Todays goal was ment to be good but it ended up being somewhat alot less then good.

Started the day off nice jacked the front up tried to reband the CV boot and the clip kept snapping ! Why i dont know but it did it 3 times. Now my guess is becsuse they are stainless they dont like being bent much or are brittle but i dont know much about these clamps so i have to now order some more and hopefully better quality ones! This really pissed me off. But the biggest issue was the damn tool i bought! Its design sucks and its from a huge manufactuer aswel, so the tool is designed to pinch the sides then squash the top a bit but the design of the tool only allows the top to come down once the pincers are together touching! But it will never get that close for that to happen. So i have to ring them and ask why its designed this way since its impossible for the clamp to get that close, that and also ask for a refund for the tool and look into another that will work.

Then i forgot my drill so i had no way of drilling out some spotwelds so rust removal was a no go under the chassis even though i took off the subframe and arms and only then i realised my drill was at home! Arrhhhh.

It was not a complete loss though. I did manage to remove pauls arms and inplace oem ones for now till mine are done.

I redid the dipstick tube as braided was getting abit warm and melting the outside so i switched to alloy hardline which will work alot better now.

And lastly to end the day i got the oem rear glass out and popped my new one in from that i had thermoformed from ACW plastics for checking and if i wanted to raise it up abit, in the end i opted to buy some 6mm weather seal and will use that as a depth guide and that way the window glue can set at its given height which infact is not that much off of the oem glue amount.

This is slightly over sized to oem and requires zero trimming and is a perfect fit! No need to worry if you mess up cutting or scratch it doing so, my spec size is just mearely taking up some extra void left over from the gappage of the oem weather seal/strip, this can be filled in with either window glue or what i will do as once glue is dry im going to add some black silicone as that is alot easier to remove then window glue should the event ever happen.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Been trying to do more stuff on the car but its getting slower and slower lately mainly because of the weather, weekdays seem warm and sunny / dry and weekends are ok but rain so it delays alot of my process since i have to do alot outside being a small garage.

With that said i have been trying to plan some bits ahead of time where i can and take some more parts off the car.

First up was the silicone couplers are in and now ready for the intake pipe and intercooler to be made or modified. Not a hard one but something that still needed to be done none the less.

I modified my auto trans dipstick tube and had it re zinc coated so now the dipstick sits the other side and opens up alot more room for intercooler piping withiut needing to bend the tube. 1 cut and weld and it works great.

During the week i had a convo with Brandon at EMW and he said about modifying the steering rack pi ion housing and save shave weight off since i will no longer require ports for fluid. He ssid send it in and he will do it but i have the machines at work to do this so i went ahead and did his idea. Chopped the basics off and then put it in a lathe and shimmed it smooth, then plug welded the holes then repeated the shimming till it was nice and smooth! Finally was a scuff up and paint black and i redid the whole rack unit so its not as glossy and equal looking. It removes just under 1Lb of weight off which is decent for what it is and boy it looks a bunch nicer and clean looking!

Today i had a slow one but got some progress if i can call it that. I removed all the PS lines, pump and brackets i could get to (front cooler tube left to remove) this was not a huge job to do but its a tad messy at times as you can imagine.

I then moved onto the drivers side fender area where i went and installed the fender braces i made. These do look different then Kevins, they are still strong and it designed like this because they have to miss my modified fenders that angle inwards (pics posted in a previous post) on the fenders subject i have decided to not use the white ones but modify my red ones and redo the wheel covering but not chop any of the fender away height wise. This will work better with my tire and camber setup as my original design was on my spare chassis and had no camber and when fitting to the red car it looked weird being so far out. So another thing for me to do but this time should be a much nicer looking finish to match.

Last bit of the day was removing the final quarter window, this was tricky as i was on my own today and had to get creative, it was a good workout and my arms where dead after since i was wiggling the side cutter to do this but it worked at the cost of my arms dying haha.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I updated the thread for the racks but not here so here are the pics of it installed.

I have not driven on it since the car is still in bits currently.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Day one of lockdown in the UK and I opted to work on the car (of course)

I had plans to take the car into work in a next few weeks to welding the body back up and make some new bits but since this has happened i brung home alot of my welding equipment and parts i fabbed up at work so i can do some of the work while i now have the time. It also means im not going to be super bored.

This was all in 1 days work which is good but also bad as i may run out sooner then i want .

Today was working with stainless steel and i was excited because of a few reasons, one of which i get to use my new furick BBW cup properly and learn this bad boy! And two i can get SD finally fully done with the temp sensor.

So the furick cup is bad ass but it took me by surprise how to setup properly and gas flow but towards the middle of the day i figured a decent way to use it well which is easy being alot of tube and thats set the amps and just floor it as it will be pretty fluid and somewhat consistant. I do think i could have been abit better and will try better over the next few days as i got a good hang of it but thus far im happy with the outcome for the first time using it.

So i stsrted off with the new intake pipe. Going SD i needed no maf sensor or bov port so i have 2x 10an fittings of which 1 is going to be used and one capped for now, i added a seconds because i have an idea i would like to try and if it works i need another. If not it can stay capped.

Then i moved onto my upper IC piping. I always wanted stainless IC piping for strength and looks so it is a bit heavier but im happy to settle with this for this part. I got my SD sensor in aswel as my bov flange.
Im a person that loves as little connections as possible and welds / couplers again for strength and less leaks.

The next steps are redo the new exhaust in slightky thinner material to remove some more weight and a V band clamp and work around my new fuel tank as it goes up and over it this time. Those pics will be done possibly by the weekend.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Finally got all the bits in to finish off my catch can i was designing. I made a double baffled can in the attempt to stop oil being picked up into the intake and intercooler. I have the VS3 but feel as if the holes right next to the exit ports are not stopping the oil and its sucking it out sideways so what i did was modifed the VS3 to a side port for the BS check hole to accept an 8AN fitting this will then collect in that can and the excess will be pulled into my catch can which is 1 inlet and 2 outlets! My can is double baffled so more chance of oil staying in side the can then coming out. Also its not right next to the in/outlets so cannot get sucked up and has to go through the maze of passageways inside and they all block off in certain areas to stop oil flow to the top.

I made a sealed chamber in the bottom so once oil is there and drains inside its not very easy for it to climb out if at all.

Its a little more then i most limely need but im trialing it to see how it goes and i can always remove the VS 3 and see if 1 can works again with the new baffle system. All in time will i know whats going to work out

 

[mountain_man]

Looking better all the time bubba

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Looking better all the time bubba

Cheers man. The engine side is pretty much done now. Got to get it into work soon to do the rest of the panel shaping and welding and learn how to tune it on V3 and get making more power

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I managed to get my hood re painted for the 2nd time and yet again im let down by the paint cans! Im going to do a review on the cans for the sake of it but luckily its a UK paint so no worries to you folks in the USA.

First set of cans were Mpex and 1K paint. These cans did not spray but rather blow a raspberry of paint out the can leaving blotches on the hood. I spent about £80 on these but got alot of paint and prep for the money.

The 2nd lot of cans were 2K by Riolett which cost near £90 for 4 cans! 2 color and 2 lacquer.
These are adjustable nozzle but i found they tried to spray ok but the can kept sputtering like it was running out but it was a fresh can!? So it never layed down a nice even coat. For the price im not happy with it.

So i will repaint this again but i will just use a proper spray paint gun and it has to be 1K but at least i know the paint will spray nicely.

Anyway here are some pics of the hood for now. It got rather windy today so i decided not to install it as i did not want anytbing to blow over or fall over etc. Shall wait till next weekend when the wind dies down.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Decided to put the hood on for now and i will reslreay it at a later date with a proper spray gun and paint. Not gonna waste time and money on cans that dont do good. It looks nice in the pics but the chap next door saw the hood and sai he could see the surface finish is not great. So thank riolett for some expensive half working cans

It looks good with the vent and today i started cutting up the fenders so i might be able to get those back on shortly. Shall see how time goes

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Been forgetting to get pics of the exhaust system for a while now, today while drilling out the front fender bolts and re tapping them i looked at it and said i must do this.

When i re did this i opted for as little bends as possible and lower angles.
The DP i had a V band on so i chopped that and used it since the V band works well and matches the o2 unit. The wiggle after the pan is less steep / angle so slightly better flow, the flexi is shorter.

Ths rest is now as straight as an arrow and small kink to go over the new fuel tank. Its also thinner material for less weight. I like how straight it is now.

 

[miguelmcv]

Haaaa now I see why your exhaust outlet comes out so high, you are FWD. I totally forgot that., No wonder I couldn’t see how to do it that way in my car

Great set up you got, it came up really good.
Keep pics coming.

Ho by the way, you have a rear tubular which clears up a lot of shit

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Haaaa now I see why your exhaust outlet comes out so high, you are FWD. I totally forgot that., No wonder I couldn’t see how to do it that way in my car

Great set up you got, it came up really good.
Keep pics coming.

Ho by the way, you have a rear tubular which clears up a lot of sh**

If i was rwd or awd i still would of done this but with added complications thats all. The tubular frame really does make space and open everything up more. Its amazing how they do that in such a way.
The cross bars are based off the same heights as the fwd subframe so thats not changed much, its just less bulky. I did not want to go crazy with it as im sure i could have done. Simple works and works well

 

[miguelmcv]

Yea, I was thinking going tubular but the luck of having the factory fuel tank makes harder to work around, I would hate to dish the factory fuel tank so that’s why I don’t attempt to do the exhaust your way,.
I bought the cargo plate to remove the spare tire well as well to make the exhaust but there is not much space to work down there.
The only way I see it is to locate the muffler somewhere else and just guide the exhaust outlet to the rear, because I don’t see a way to place the muffler directly to the bumper (like factory).

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Yea, I was thinking going tubular but the luck of having the factory fuel tank makes harder to work around, I would hate to dish the factory fuel tank so that’s why I don’t attempt to do the exhaust your way,.
I bought the cargo plate to remove the spare tire well as well to make the exhaust but there is not much space to work down there.
The only way I see it is to locate the muffler somewhere else and just guide the exhaust outlet to the rear, because I don’t see a way to place the muffler directly to the bumper (like factory).

yeah you just have to stay under the subframe and diff and then do a steep angle up to the bumper, not ideal but its up out the way for the tips, helps if you got a diffuser there to help air flow some, but then the pipes are low and dont help the flow under the car much there either

 

[miguelmcv]

Yea, I check my car when I was looking how to rout it and saw your exhaust outlet comes out way high compare to what I could of done it, but placing the muffler else is the way to go for me.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Yea, I check my car when I was looking how to rout it and saw your exhaust outlet comes out way high compare to what I could of done it, but placing the muffler else is the way to go for me.

Do you need to run a muffler? Perhaps the muffler before the subframe leaving alot more room in the back for pipe only? Only other way to do it is get custom with the angle grinder and weld a recess in the top secrion of the subframe (oem) over the axles so it wont hit. This way you can go over it and be at a decent height to start with? Thats one way but the fuek tank is the issue as thats going to be a shart turn from tank to over the subframe.

 

[miguelmcv]

Yes I need the muffler, it used to be my DD but now it’s my weekend worrier, I want to keep away unwanted people which here in Calif. is freaking strictly when it comes to noise and stuff.

I’m more of having fun with it but at the same time, keep it my way or the way I would love to see it (appearance wise).

I will look down there again to see if I can manage to make it work, I have a Varex which is huge compare to others, but hope I can manage to make it work.

 

[Black95TSIawd]

Wish you and I were local to each other. I'd have a lot of welding work for you. Great work.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Yes I need the muffler, it used to be my DD but now it’s my weekend worrier, I want to keep away unwanted people which here in Calif. is freaking strictly when it comes to noise and stuff.

I’m more of having fun with it but at the same time, keep it my way or the way I would love to see it (appearance wise).

I will look down there again to see if I can manage to make it work, I have a Varex which is huge compare to others, but hope I can manage to make it work.

But can you not have the muffler before the subframe? It will still donits job but means less bulk to mess sround with in the back end,

You just got to get very creative and think of the impossible which is not always easy to do