The 4G63 NT Engine, and How to make a turbo kit for it!

[xhypno]

no but I suggest it, to increase the amount of fuel in the engine.

 

[laser9320]

is the fuel system of the 2 models the same? I'm only trying to get equal to a stock turbo right now.

 

[laser9320]

Do I need a new wire harness?

 

[TimG]

I have started to pull off most of the bolt-ons, such as alternator, power steering pump, exhaust manifold, misc. brackets and the valve cover. I've taken a few pictures to give you an idea, but the real step by step pictures will be when I take off my timing belt and when I resurface and port my head. Along with some internals - performance cams, pistons and rods. I will be sending the block off to be professionally bored, balanced and reassembled and hopefully the guys there will let me see how complicated machine work is.

Anyway. I want to post my pics but have no place to do so. If you want to see them, tell me a site where I can just link them up too.

 

[xhypno]

TimG, I am making a website to go with my article on the conversion. If you can e-mail me the pics as you get them, I will put them on the site. [email protected]

 

[xhypno]

laser, you need the fuel rail, pressure regulator, pump, injectors, injector recistor pack, solenoid, and ecu. for the conversion. You can use you stock wire harness, just run 10 or 12 guage wire to the ecu, and use the pinout to connect them to the ecu.

 

[TimG]

I've got all the bolt-ons off of the engine. The only thing left for me to do before I begin the head work is to seperate the head from the block.

Lack of funds will make this conversion very hard, but doable in time. I still need to purchase some tools and parts for the head work (die grinder and HKS cams).

Block will be sent away for machine work as well probably in the fall and things will start to fall together.

I also second Xhypno's idea on a whole new fuel system. Your stock N/T is just not enough fuel to burn the condensed, cooled air from the turbo/IC combination.

I'll e-mail you some pics soon. I just want to get them in order and done. (I only have around 12 now)

 

[xhypno]

thats str8, when you get them just e-mail them. But TimG unless you have taken a die grinder to engine components before (I mean alot), I suggest taking it to a machine shop, one grind wrong and you will need new heads. And it is best to get a 3 angle valve job, along with porting, it will give you even more hp.

 

[TimG]

After some thought, I will only be porting out the runners and ports that lead to the manifolds. The 3-angle valve job is just too complex. Bowl work and short radius work is just too precise for my likings and I don't want to damage any valve components in the process.

Eww... I drove a Honda today. 88 CRX Dx edition. The thing is so slow and so light...

I'll have most of the pics up fairly soon. I just broke a rachet connection I was using (large piece of fukking metal too, god knows how i broke it)

I'm having a little trouble with getting the crankshaft pulley off the crankshaft. The 4 bolts are really tight. Anyone have any tips other then penetrating oils or big breaker arms?

 

[laser9320]

remember, righty tighty lefty loosy

 

[HondaHunter2002]

heat up the nuts.. metal expands when heated.. just don't heat up the bolt or else you will only make it tougher on yourself.. but be careful at the same time this can also be dangerous if your not careful

 

[TimG]

Just need to buy and extention for my head bolts (I believe a 1cm drive) and I'll be done basically. Valves are tricky to get at, anyone got any ideas on how to compress the springs so I can remove them? Tons of carbon in the intake manifold and ports and I bet in the cumbustion chambers. Nothing a dremel (for ports) and carb cleaner (for chamber) can't clean up. Eh...

 

[laser9320]

Well I just studied and compared the vaccuum diagram to the car and I think I've got it figured out. It would be much simpler to just not connect the evaporative emission control system or leave it as is. The extra line coming out of the t body is for the eecs so that eliminates that problem. The fuel pressure solenoid just comes in between the fuel pressure regulator and the intake manifold. I'll also T in the tc bypass valve (BOV) between the fuel pressure solenoid and the intake manifold. I still have 4 questions tho.

1. Will my existing eecs work with a turbo charger?
2. Do all the lines into the t body dump right into the airstream?
3. What about the extra line into the egr valve? Leave not connected or get a new egr valve?
4. Will any of this result in an error code and the check engine light?

Can someone who knows more about this than me check over and make sure that all my info is correct and following my plan won't cause any engine damage. Thanks

 

[laser9320]

Well here are the vaccuum diagrams. Top one is turbo diagram with my modifications to make it work on the engine I got bottom one is currenct nt wiring diagram. Hope this helps you see what i was trying to describe and once again please someone check over and let me know if it will work.

Picture didn't work so here is the link: vaccuum_diagram.jpg

 

[Vince]

IT would be better to drill & tap the intake manifold for the blow off
valve and the wastegate actuator because the bov needs a real strong
signal to work its best, then just tee off that line for the actuator. Just drill the manifold in one of the spots that look like where the fuel pressure regulator port was drilled from the factory, then run larger vacuum hose to those items. And as long as you properly wire in the knock sensor, the extra wire from the turbo MAS and the fuel pressure solenoid you will have no check engine codes. in case your doubting, I turbo'd my 91 eclipse 3 months ago but with a 20G and I run 15 psi in Las Vegas hot as hell weather, completely stock motor never had the head off and no problems

 

[Vince]

And just leave all the other vacuum lines where they are

 

[laser9320]

ok, thanks

 

[TimG]

The head is off of the block, and I'm about to send it in for a valve job. Also, getting the pistons, rods, rings and bearings all purchased soon so I can get a full balanced, reassembled block with stronger pistons. Soon school starts though, so I won't be working on the engine very often (twice a week maybe). Funds are also kinda low. So I'll be taking this slow as soon as the block and head are done. When they are done, the only real big things left to buy are the 20G turbo and FMIC, but that won't be until winter for the turbo and spring for the FMIC. I'm way too tired to go into detail, but thanks for the vacuum info, I figured I'd have to modify Haynes' diagrams...

 

[xhypno]

Sorry all, I have been really busy lately. With the start of the fall term in college and my carzy class load, I have been to busy to do anything. Well I am still working on the article, between classes and work at least, but it is getting there.

And now for my car. Anyone have a spare 2.0 nt 1g engine to sell. My radiator went will doing 115 on the florida turnpike. My car overheated in about 5 seconds. I blew the head gasket (now leaking oil and burning it too), hopefully there isn't any major internal damage.

 

[Bob Kratchet]

You forgot a few crucial things.. you need the entire wiring harness... plus the turbo engines had oil squirters internally in the engine to keep the pistons cooler... otherwise everything was right on... a weekend mechanic is going to do this easily though... I'm not sure about the transmission stuff though...

 

[Vince]

Like xhypno and I wrote earlier, all you need to wire in is the knock sensor, extra wire from the MAS and the fuel press solenoid, YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY CHECK ENGINE CODES AND EVERYTHING WILL WORK FINE. So nobody worry about a complete harness. I sure wont when I start my car to go to work and guess what!!! No codes, Damn. Go to a Mitsubishi dealership and make copies of turbo and non turbo wiring harness diagrams and you will see the differences and what you need and dont need.

And for the squiters, turbo 4g63 motors can handle what, 400+ hp with stock internals and the right parts? Im sure most people here know their not going to push that horsepower on their non turbo blocks but they will do just fine from 200-300 hp.

For the tranny stuff, get a clutch to handle the power you want and dont worry about anything else.

 

[laser9320]

So these oil squirters spray oil up onto the bottom of the pistons. Then the oil falls back down onto the crank which takes away some hp. So wouldn't a non-turbo block run much more efficiently?

 

[Vince]

The turbo block IS better, always, because it will take more abuse in stock form but once you get some forged pistons and rods, the squirters really wont have too much affect on performance. Even a dyno wouldnt show power loss from the oil dripping on the crank & rods but they are a good idea.

 

[TimG]

I got all the lines down on paper for N/T to turbo. I know the fuel pressure selnoid isn't needed... the car runs fine without it with certain fuel management mods. But what about the purge control valve... What does it do, what does it lead to and do I need it? I'm unfamiliar with it so help would be appreciated...

 

[Vince]

The solenoid thats on your firewall is the same as on the turbo but it just opens or closes on boost instead of just vacuum. Honestly, just leave yours the way it is. One less headache to worry about like the turbo boys have to. Your car wont run poor because of it.