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The 4G63 NT Engine, and How to make a turbo kit for it!

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xypno..
so you think i have to go ahead and change the piston rings eh?? do you think there is an easier fix for now? until i can rack in the money for the conversion.. is there something easier to do to fix like 50 or more percent of the problem but not totally fix it
 
TimG try to stay on the topic, this thread is about a 4g63nt turbo kit, not a turbo engine swap. Same goes for you 92nt. I should not have even respond to the swap question, I didn't pay attention to the thread the reply was in. Thank You
 
Sorry about posting what another solution to the turbo problem. Maybe I just wanted to give my 2 cents, but you seemed to have gotten offended by it. The reason I chose the root was that it was easier for what I have to work with. Anyway, I still plan on making a turbo kit for my N/T engine as soon as it is out of the car, but that won't be for a good couple of weeks and maybe even months, depending on the funds I can raise. Never the less, I still plan on making the turbo kit for the N/T plus rebuild a turbo engine in the meantime. (This will be done over the time length of around 4 months so I have plenty of time)
 
I have actually decided to go turbo with a non-turbo J-Spec Eclipse engine with low km for low cost. Yet, there are a few questions I have.
1) Where do the coolant lines and oil lines start and end up after they have passed through the turbocharger?
2) Some vacuum lines I am uncertain about. Where does the ones attached to the wastegate solenoid come from? What about the bypass/blow off valve?
I just am skeptical about the whole N/T to turbo as not many people have done it, but I am going to try with the help from you guys when I need you, I hope.
 
Great discussion guys.Keep it up. Making this thread a sticky.

Later,
 
Right now i just want to get my car converted to the exact same specs as a turbo model. If its all the same and i have a turbo ecu i don't have to get a SAFC right? Also i have 115000 miles on the engine but it doesn't smoke should i take it completly apart and rebuild? I read in the repair manual that i can replace pistons and rods without taking the engine out would that be ok? I'd rather just do that I think its gonna be about 1.5k for a rebuild. Also i heard somewhere about the turbos haveing additional oil squirters in the block any idea on how that could affect things?
 
yeah if you have the know how to change the pistons will the block is still in the car, go for it, that would make it alot cheaper. No, no oil squirting into the block, the turbo has oil lines though, that suck oil out of the oil pan and return it for the bearings and also water lines to cool it. You should be able to do the rebuild for even less. 2g turbo pistons new 200 used 100, total seal gappless rings 155 (best to use), and used stock rods 100 or new forged ones for 350. Just don't forget the stronger head gasket and better fuel injectors and pump.
 
I am working on a complete article that has a step by step guide to making the kit, what to do and what not to do (turbo with stock 240cc injectors ='s BOOM). And I then will make it visual. Keep lookin at this site for it (I am working with the moderators to get it up). I will keep everyone posted.

The article will list every part, no matter how small (or big) and alternatives for it along with prices (new and used, cast and forged)..

More to come!!
 
I really look forward to this article. You will probably be one of the first ones with balls to actually try the conversion customized. I will begin the conversion next week and see what kind of crap I'll be getting myself into. Just confused on those vacuum lines all over the place and a few smaller details now. Turbos are new to me but I've learned a great deal about them. I plan on resurfacing everything and port runners, manifolds and maybe the valve chambers. Then it will be sparkling new for the turbo and the various 2G parts (exhaust mani, pistons). This will take a lot of time, money and work. Hopefully Xhypno's article clears some stuff up.

Quick questions though...
1) Where in the block do the oil and coolant lines come from to serve the turbo and where do they return too?
2) Where are all these new vacuum lines coming from? They confuse the hell out of me.
 
just started reading this thread, but how much does it cost to replace pistons? cuz a new nt motor cost 495 plus shipping and install, and the "k" series motor cost 650 plus shipping and install, my cars burning oil but im just waiting for the motor to go so i can buy the "k" series motor, if theres anything that doesnt bolt up could someone please tell me?
 
Depending on what type of pistons you want (stock or big forged ones) you are looking at stock used around $100 and big forged around $500. Try to replace them with 2nd generation turbo pistons if possible. They are pretty stable and can handle a 1G turbo. But if you plan on getting a shop to do it, you are looking at about $65/hour base rate and a lot of hours to do this replacement. Equals a lot of money.
 
92nt were are you getting the engines, I work for a car dealer and whole sale the stock 1g nt motor is 995 plus shipping and the k series is 1195 plus shipping, but the turbo motor is 1295 plus shipping. These come with the tranny, wire harness, ecu, and new motor mounts. I don't see how you can get them for less, unless you are getting junkyard motors.

TimG, I will put together a diagram of the vacum lines and put it up. the oil lines have to be tapped into the oil pan, just pick up a new pan from a junkyard for 45 dollars that already has the taps in it (alot easier), and you have to split the collant lines from the thermostate and the TB to connect the turbo, inside to the TB and the out side to the thermostate.

I just put on a VVG head set for Proco Racing, it seems to have helped the engine pull like crazey. My turbo gauge and vaccum gauge both show 2psi of boost at 5000rpm, and that is without a turbo (I thought that was funny). the heads cost 1500 and came ported, polished, and with 1mm over valves. If you have the money, get them before you turbo, they will help the engine breath on both sides of the cycle alot better. BUT THIS IS NOT NECCESARY FOR THE KIT.
 
I await your vacuum line diagrams. They will be the biggest help to me and going turbo. I have a few questions still though.
1) When I connect up the line from the thermostate, is there a plugged drain I connect it up to or do I need to pick up a turbo one with the necessary drain?
2) Where does the coolant on the TB go after it comes out of the turbo?
3) Has anyone actually sucessfully done this conversion or will you be the first?
 
I am workin on it. My laptop died and my charger blew, so I am waiting for a new one from compaq. When I get it I will up the article. And to my amazament, this document will be good even for you turbo guide as a reference for a strong build on your engines even though it mostly references the 1g 4G63 Non-Turbo. Hopefully soon.
 
If Xhypno can't do the pictures, I plan on taking some when I do mine. Except my engine will be on couple of 4x4's and an old rubber tire. It's the J-Spec version as well (less vacuum lines). Has the same lines as a normal engine but a couple less as winter isn't too harsh in Japan and antifreeze isn't needed in such places as the t-body.
Anyway, I can take some pics. I get the engine on Mon.
 
TimG, if the tb doesn't have coolant lines, don't use it. I currently use a tb from a cyclone motor and it even has the coolant lines, they are to stop the throttle plate and tb from heating and expanding until shut. Yeah, and those pics will help alot. I will have some, but they are slow going getting them into my computer (most are still 3x5's, before I got my digi). The adapter sould be here tomorrow. yeah, hopefully.
 
That J-Spec engine comes tomorrow, and I now understand about those coolant lines. I'll just take my throttle body off my car I have now in order for it to have those coolant lines. Thanks for the lookout. Xhypno, is there anyway I can contact you through an instant messanger? Any particular time you are online so I can discuss some things with you? You seem to have a very extensive knowledge over me on this conversion.
 
well i went to the import junkyard today. The guy said he didn't have any turbo parts cars but he could get the parts. He wanted 350 for the ecu!!! The turbo was going to be another 350! I was insulted, i can find prices much better than that on the trader.
 
yeah, I am online most of the time on aim under xhypno402. If I am on, just im me.

damn, Laser those are terriable prices. e-mail me what you need, I can get the cheap, all you pay is shipping. [email protected]
 
and no as of right now tuesday at 12:57am, I don't have the adapter, still on my friends puter. maybe tomorrow.
 
My engine just came and work will begin tonight or tomorrow. I will have my digital camera always taking snapshots, and post them up somewhere. Anyone know where I can post them for free and just link them? I don't want to get a page account anywhere cause it's too much trouble. Anyway, disassembly begins of the bolt ons first, then belts and internals. I'll be following a Haynes, shop manual an experienced number of family members.
The block will be sent away with the new pistons, rods and bearings to suit the turbocharger as soon as the head and parts are all off. Hopefully the pics can help...
 
Tell me when you have the pics, and I will get you a place to post them for all to see, I just got my adapter today, so I can now finish the article and post it. But work on my car won't start for about a month, because fall semester at school starts wednesday and I have to focus on that. My turbo (complete w/manifold and o2), pistons, rods,ecu, fuel rail, fuel pump, injectors, titanium valve springs and valves all must wait.
 
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