how many slapped a turbo on a nt and called it a day?

[Black_Bullet]

Man its been so long since ive done this, but its like four yellow wires with a white stripe on them that goe to one thicker wire, and it has some metal holding it on to the thicker wire. You splice all four of the injector resistor pack wires to any of the four yellow wires in the harness.
They are easy to distinguish because its basically right above the fuel filter and its four wires that go into one thicker one.
If post a pic of that part of your harness opened up I could tell you which one if you still dont follow.

 

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ok i bought a turbo ecu , and im going to be putting it in tommorrow i just need some clarification on a few things. the knock sensor i have, and im pretty sure i know how to hook that up, hook 1 wire to ground, the other to pin # 9 on the ecu, now on my harness this pin is empty correcT? and the other wire is the idle posistion switch from the extra wire on the turbo mafs plug which on a 91-94 harness is pin #6 and 90 harness pin #14 the turbo ecu i have is accually a 90 so i will be swapping pins 6 and 14 but there should accually be no wire in the slot of 6? thats what i got out of looking at the pinout on vfaq, and i also searched for this and i found something about pin 3


Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 9:10 pm Post subject: Turbo Maf Swap

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This should take no more than 20 minutes , simply peel back the wire loom cover , next cut the NT maf harness about 4 inches behind the connector. Mitsubishi was nice enough to use the same color wiring on the NT and Turbo Maf's, so all you have to do is match the wire colors from the turbo maf connector to the nt's and your almost done. The turbo maf has an additional wire which needs to runback thru the engine back to the ecu harness into ecu pin #3. Solder and tape all connections and your good.


but if im not mistaken pin 3 is the turbo gauge which i suppose would make sense because the turbo gauge needs a signal from the mafs? i am not using a turbo gauge cluster though . im confused.
some clarification would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance tuners.

 

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here is the ecu pinout for reference 1g dsm

12 Ignition timing adjustment connector ===== 24 Sensors ground
11 ABS control unit (AWD, ABS only) === 23 Power supply for MAF sensors (5volts)
10 Air flow Sensor (MAF) ==== 22 Top dead center sensor
9 Detonation sensor ===== 21 Crank angle sensor (RPM)
8 Intake air temperature sensor (MAF) ====== 20 Coolant temperature sensor
7 Air conditioner switch ======= 19 Throttle position sensor
6 Idle position switch
(switch with 14 if using a 91-94 ECU in a 90 or vvs)
Stock wire color - Green/White ======== 18 Vehicle speed sensor (reed switch)
5 Power steering oil pressure switch ======= 17 Sensors ground
4 Oxygen Sensor ====== 16 Barometric pressure sensor (MAF)
3 Turbo gauge ===== 15 EGR temperature sensor (90-93 CA only, 94 all)
2 Diagnosis/Data transfer select terminal ==== 14 Air flow sensor active filter reset (idle switch)
== (switch with 6 if using a 91-94 ECU in a 90 or vvs)
== Stock wire color - Green
1 Self-Diagnosis Output ==== 13 Control relay (Fuel pump drive signal)

 

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had exhaust put on it today, if anybody is curious its just 2.5" from the o2 housing to the stock flex pipe on a 1g nt fwd which looks like 2-2 1/4" or something but like i said im not looking for any boost creep this will be a daily driver. just thought i would keep you updated, hopefully tommorrow i can finally get it running with the wastegate actuator accually connected to the flapper arm . i will take alot of pictures or maybe a video. maybe post up some logs.

 

[t4-teg]

Damn Brian you've got more spare parts to put on your "spare" dsm than I do for my DD. hows sh it goin down there in FL? PM me your #, I got a new phone and lost all numbers

 

[92tsifwd]

You might want to leave the timing at 0-1* btdc untill you log it because, I had alot of knock running the stock 5* timing on my n/t using the stock turbo ecu and it would not tune out completely by adding fuel. Sounds like you are having fun though. This makes me want to wrk on my car. Keep us informed.

 

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ta da! by golly george i think weve got it. Ok first thing first, turbo ecu : i did the modifications required to utilize a turbo ecu in a nt harness(car) and those were 1. knock sensor take one 1 ground it to the chassis take the other to pin #9 (it said didnt matter which wire went to where but i grounded the black wire and ran the red wire to the ecu) and the extra wire on the turbo mafs plug (idle posistion switch) run that to pin 6 if you have a 91-94 ecu and pin 14 if you have a 90. although im using a 90 ecu i swapped the pins to accomodate it. i had a hell of a time getting that knock sensor screwed into the block though, and there were 2 holes it can fit in if i recall correctly the bottom is the right one, the top one would put the knock sensor right near the valvetrain and it would probably pick up all kinds of crap there. so after i did all that !BOOM! IT BLEW A ROD THROUGH THE BLOCK!!!!!!!!! just kidding just wanted to see if you were paying attention.The car is accually running great (well kinda) with the turbo ecu in it without the flapper arm hooked up it crept to 1-2psi and ran really great spun for a second when i grabbed second gear , so i finally thought i was ready to hook the wastegate up , and its breaking up in the top end , i know i know boost leak test , i will do one tommorrow and as far as logs well. you know what happens when you let your friends borrow your shit. ( you never get it back ) so my buddy lost my logger so im going to have to buy a new one. but probably boost leaking the maft was 0'd out across the bored. i have tommorow off, im going to register it, log it (if he can find my logger) and put the headlights back in . well thats enough text time for some pictures ( i swear this pictures look awesome on my phone ... sorry for quality)

OHH and , as far as wiring the extra 2 wires, i have an extra car thats going to the junkyard so i just snagged a ecu connector with a few inches of wiring so i could cut splice and run the wires to the mafs/knock sensor and just clip the other sides right into the harness on my car. (of course i soldered and heat shrinked )

 

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the ecu im using is out of my gsx until i buy one , so i had to take out my chip and put the stocker in temporarily.

 

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i know i know , wait theres only 3 verticle boards! thats not a 90 ecu!!! . well technically no its not but it was custom made by jeff oberholtzer to be plug and play with a 90 ( see the wire he soldered in the ecu? ) and it works great. i highly recommend dsmchips keydiver jeff oberholtzer , and its significantly convienient since he lives 45 minutes from here.

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oh and i still have to clean up the resistor pack i know it looks ugly and out of place but i will solder and heatshrink when all is said and done.

 

[92tsifwd]

Let us know how the n/t tranny holds up too. I might be putting a 14b on my n/t dd and I am a little nervous about the n/t tranny. You using the stock n/t clutch or a aftermarket one?

 

[compression]

excedy clutch off of ebay its says it exceeds factory specs ( yes nt)but you know how that goes. it grabs great but it wont last 10k miles i guarantee it. im such a cheap ass ...

 

[compression]

my father said the internals look nearly identical , i bet they are weaker though im sure of it. but im not making that kind of power to require a turbo transmission, i accually prefer the shorter gear ratios.

Edit : internals meaning transmission internals.

 

[Black_Bullet]

my father said the internals look nearly identical , i bet they are weaker though im sure of it. but im not making that kind of power to require a turbo transmission, i accually prefer the shorter gear ratios.

The ring lands sit higher on the n/t pistons making them more vulnerable to detonation.
When I did this I wasnt using a N/T block so I dont have experience with how well they hold though.

 

[kris_stewart10]

i had a dsm that i turboed and well it was a nt

and lets just say that it didnt last long til i got my gst

but the tranny i never had problems with it but i was lucky i was able to blow a head gasket before anything else and i am still kicking my self in the A$$ for that car it was my first car and i fell in love with dsms then

 

[compression]

The ring lands sit higher on the n/t pistons making them more vulnerable to detonation.
When I did this I wasnt using a N/T block so I dont have experience with how well they hold though.

Transmission internals, i was saying that because somebody said they hope the nt tranny holds up for me.

 

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Theres a story behind the pink and blue coupler. I dont care if you want to hear it or not im going to tell you . i was at moroso and running 12.50's 12.60's in my gsx and im blew that coupler and another dsm that was there watching saw me and he offered one of his couplers off of his car , so i said cool man thanks. so there in the sportsman line i start taking off my bumper and right when i got it off they called sportsman so here i am bumper off of my car holding up the line . so my friends start pushing my car while im changing this coupler. which is really difficult if you have never tried it. so i got the coupler on finally, and im almost to the line trying to throw my bumper back on . luckily i made my bumper easily removable when i had problems with my intercooler pipes blowing off before. by this time i had a little crowd around me kinda cheering me on offering help . but it was awesome when i got my bumper back on and i was next in line i was literlly finishing my car right behind the water box so i got in and did a pass and it was my 12.30 @110 which was my fastest time ive gotten at the track thus far. i doubt that coupler gave me any performance over the others but it is however my lucky coupler. so Whoever it was that gave me the coupler THANKS!

 

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this thread should be pinned for the next poor guy wanting to do this.

 

[dsm-onster]

You must drive better when you don't think so much about it staging. . .

 

[compression]

maybe .

 

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replaced spark plugs (duh) old bpr6es gapped at like .60.. with some bpr7es. fouled them out went and bought some more 6's and gapped them to .28(ish) runs great. pulls hard, still need to tune it with the logger put in a gvr4 alternator which was a 90 amp as apposed to the stock 65 amp. that works great 14.4-14.5 volts at idle. our local airport (piper) has 100 octane for 3.30 so ill tune it with that.ill let you know how it works

 

[xxsupralvrxx]

WOWOW hold it here 3.3??in fl????? how far from ocala are you???

 

[compression]

3.3? what are you talking about? i think im like an hour and a half maybe 2 hours im not sure .