1G Installing a turbo 4g63 into an NT 4g63

[90TSIAWDTALON]

mavisky, how long did it actually take u to finish your swap bc I also plan to do this swap bc i have a 90 awd talon and i also have a 90 Fwd turbo wrecked and a 90 2.0 nt and my dad wants to swap the turbo motor to the nt car cause he wants to drive it to work and also mod it. thanks.

 

[mavisky]

mavisky, how long did it actually take u to finish your swap bc I also plan to do this swap bc i have a 90 awd talon and i also have a 90 Fwd turbo wrecked and a 90 2.0 nt and my dad wants to swap the turbo motor to the nt car cause he wants to drive it to work and also mod it. thanks.

When I first did the swap it took me the better part of a month as it was one of the first cars to ever undergo the swap from what I'd seen on the internet. I could do it now in a weekend with an engine hoist and the right tools. Assuming you had all the parts there and ready to go of course.

 

[mkspriggs]

i guess im going to have to just get a turbo dash harness,since i already have thye dash out it should be easy anyway.i was wondering if i will have to convert anything to make this work or will it just plug right in?also when i do this will i have to change the harness in the engine bacy or is it all the same harness?thanks guys

mavisky do i just need the harness that the mas connection is on?or will i need to get all of the harnesses the two in the engine bay and the one in the dash?also will a turbo dash harness work with my gauges?

 

[TimG]

In all honesty guys, you don't need to convert to the turbo MAF. It's the same as the n/t MAF minus a wire for the FAKE boost gage. Use the n/t cluster, n/t MAF and a real boost gage.

Also, the only real wiring you need to do is the knock sensor and injector resistor pack. I have simplified the whole swap to an art. I've done it 7 times and helped out more. You boys need to trust me.

 

[mavisky]

You've been using the nt maf Tim? I never tried it.

Also I don't see why you're swapping out the dash wiring harness, hell I'm still running the nt cluster in my car.

 

[TimG]

You've been using the nt maf Tim? I never tried it.

Also I don't see why you're swapping out the dash wiring harness, hell I'm still running the nt cluster in my car.

I also use the n/t cluster. I even got a bunch of my turbo buddies to do so as well because of the larger tach.

Yeah just use the n/t maf. Why not?

 

[terminaltsi]

anyone know if the axle ratios are the same on a galant gsx as they are on a gvr4? i'm doing a swap and it just occured to me to ask this.

 

[Morphius]

anyone know if the axle ratios are the same on a galant gsx as they are on a gvr4? i'm doing a swap and it just occured to me to ask this.

Yes, they are different. The GGSX has a oddball 2.8 rear diff and different final drive in the trans. If you're installing a DSM or GVR4 trans, then you need to change the rear diff.

BTW, if you do change the trans and rear diff out, I'd be interested in purchasing them.

 

[Raph]

In all honesty guys, you don't need to convert to the turbo MAF. It's the same as the n/t MAF minus a wire for the FAKE boost gage. Use the n/t cluster, n/t MAF and a real boost gage.

Also, the only real wiring you need to do is the knock sensor and injector resistor pack. I have simplified the whole swap to an art. I've done it 7 times and helped out more. You boys need to trust me.

yep trust him.. on my 2g 4g63nt i used the same maf and i didnt wire in a resistor pack,,i just used high impedance Rx7 injectors (490s)

tuning with a safc and a WBo2

and it works! the whole thing isnt very complicated ,im on a stock nt bottom end

 

[terminaltsi]

Yes, they are different. The GGSX has a oddball 2.8 rear diff and different final drive in the trans. If you're installing a DSM or GVR4 trans, then you need to change the rear diff.

BTW, if you do change the trans and rear diff out, I'd be interested in purchasing them.

what if i just keep the GGSX trans on the turbo motor?

 

[Morphius]

what if i just keep the GGSX trans on the turbo motor?

You'll need a NT flywheel and clutch. Also, depends on how much power you intend to put through it. It's built like a F5M22,31 with straight roller bearings. Larger potential to fail.

 

[terminaltsi]

oh i see. i'll just swap rear ends then too while i;m at it. thanks!

 

[mkspriggs]

hey guys i finally got everything straitened out and got her starte today sounds great(well from what i could hear without a dp on it)but i forgot to do one thing the resistor pack.i have one question about that is there more then one resistor pack for our cars?the reason i ask is the one i bought off here has 5 wires 4 black and one white but i noticed a few people on here mentioning red wires.did i get the wrong thing or is mi8ne just a different year model?it looks like a resistor pack and i figure the white is the feed wire but i wanted to ask you guys to make sure.thanks alot.

does it matter which injector wire we put on the hot wire?im asking because i went ahead and installed it as stingray mentioned and now the car wont start i know everything is right but i was wondering about that wire.also why in the picture does it show 3 of the 4 wires going back to the irp?instead of the way everyoine keeps mentioning on having 1 wire going to it and the other three setting there not doing anything?thanks guys

Edit: ok, i figured it out i was tracing a wire and left the damn connector off the ecu,but i got it going works great,thanks for everything guys.

 

[Gs Dewd]

I just completed the swap on a a/t car and have put over 1000 miles on it. So yes it can be done. You have to retain you exsisting wiring harness unless you are swapping to the turbo at trans and use the wiring harness for that engine tranny combo. But it is alot eisier just to retain your harness and add the four wires.

 

[dmc67]

ok guys I have done the swap and these are my problems, I got the motor and harness and everything out of a 90 Eclipse It's all I could find,

I think my clutch master cylinder is goin bad b/c I can shift fine taking off and then when i come to a stop or try to shift it just grinds and I gotta stop and wait a lil while and pump it a couple times and i can put it in gear again when it's running, I know their is a difference in the 90 mt but what are they?

I got some electrical issues, headlights dashlights or anything wont work unless the car is running andf if i hit a bump they will go off. and my electric windows wont roll down at all. I am thinking it's a ground some where anyone know where i can find a digram of all the stock wiring places?

on the hot side of the battery their were 2 white wires hooked up to the terminal but where does the other end go to?

The waste gate rod runs to the manifold should i be able to move the rod? the wastegate looks like it is pretty rusted up.

Taboo vacuum elimination diagrams have a MBC hooked up is their anyway to do the elimination without a MBC?

their's a white plugin by the ECU on the drivers side, the harness I put in only has 10 wires and the old harness had 14 or 17 and it wont plug in, i cant really see where the connector wires runs to b/c they go into a BIG wiring harness up under the gauges. I got no electric what so ever in the car until it is running.


any help here would be greatly appreciated.

 

[junseth]

Before I get any bashing, I researched and tried to find answers, and Im not a noob with turbos and stuff ( I have a 95 Stealth TT....thats highly modified to say the least)

Alright, I read most of this thread and some other ones, but I have a few questions and need to get a few things clarified before I do this.

The car I will be using will be a 1993 Eclipse GS. It was the DOHC NT but it has the automatic transmission.

The motor I have I picked up from a friend. Its a 1G 4g63T and is basically complete. Its missing the exhaust manifold, but he has the turbo for it. I am not sure if its the stock turbo, or what the deal is on it. Its basically the long block. It was from a gsx, but it doesnt have the flywheel on it anymore for some reason. I believe it was a manual transmission, but I can find out

I am wondering what to do about the transmission. Which flywheel will work? Will the stock flywheel I have on the car work with this motor, or do I need a different one? I wan to use the automatic FWD transmission thats in the car right now so my gf can drive it easier as she has problems driving my stealth, and Im sick of changing clutches

Can anyone tell me some info about this?

Thanks!

 

[dmc67]

ok since this thread appears to be pretty much dea I'll try to claify a few thingsd for you, first off teh Automatic transaxle's flywheel is built onto the torque converter. if you were to use a N/T auto tranny you would need a N/T torque converter. I am sure ya know that the Auto tranny's on the 4g63's are pretty much junk i went threw 2 of them on my N/T motor and finally went to 5-speed. also a few notes when changing the harness, change it all dont just add the wires like some people have. it's pretty simple all you need to do is actually take out the heater motors and a few other misc things under the pass side dash. if the car still has Air conditiong you will have to disconnect them lines right behid the battery before you get the AC box out.

as I'm sure you know the N/T downpipe is totally different than the turbo one.


hope this is what you wanted to know.

it took me about an hour to take out and put in a new harness.

Danny

 

[junseth]

ok since this thread appears to be pretty much dea I'll try to claify a few thingsd for you, first off teh Automatic transaxle's flywheel is built onto the torque converter. if you were to use a N/T auto tranny you would need a N/T torque converter. I am sure ya know that the Auto tranny's on the 4g63's are pretty much junk i went threw 2 of them on my N/T motor and finally went to 5-speed. also a few notes when changing the harness, change it all dont just add the wires like some people have. it's pretty simple all you need to do is actually take out the heater motors and a few other misc things under the pass side dash. if the car still has Air conditiong you will have to disconnect them lines right behid the battery before you get the AC box out.

as I'm sure you know the N/T downpipe is totally different than the turbo one.


hope this is what you wanted to know.

it took me about an hour to take out and put in a new harness.

Danny

I dont have the harness or the ecu, all I have is the block. I think it would be a LOT easier to use the existing harness. What do you think is bad about ising the harness?

I am going to stick with the auto for now, as it still works and my gf can drive it. WHEN, not if, it breaks i will change it then. I am used to pulling transmissions .

So, the tranny will bolt right up to this block right? Am i reading this correct?

 

[Raph]

I dont have the harness or the ecu, all I have is the block. I think it would be a LOT easier to use the existing harness. What do you think is bad about ising the harness?

I am going to stick with the auto for now, as it still works and my gf can drive it. WHEN, not if, it breaks i will change it then. I am used to pulling transmissions .

So, the tranny will bolt right up to this block right? Am i reading this correct?

it should.. hmm..the starter should work too. just use your starter etc.

 

[Galaxy]

Very cool thread,I've read it all and have a pretty good understanding of what all needs to be done.

I have a 92 NT,and saturday I bought a wrecked 94 FWD TSI with a 7 bolt for the swap.My friend I bought the talon from has done7-6 bolt swaps on 1G's and said I will need to re-use my cam angle sensor for the 92.I'm gonna be using the 94 eprom ecu from the talon so I was wondering why I would need the 92 CAS.Maybe I just overthought something and theres a simple explanation,there usually is.I am a turbo noob but good with electronics and common sense so I don't see this being too hard.

 

[mavisky]

The 7 bolt 1g engine is identical other than the mechanicals to the 91-92.5 engines. You shouldn't have any issues with this like you would a 7bolt-6bolt 2g swap. The cam angle sensors will be identical.

 

[Gs Dewd]

ok since this thread appears to be pretty much dea I'll try to claify a few thingsd for you, first off teh Automatic transaxle's flywheel is built onto the torque converter. if you were to use a N/T auto tranny you would need a N/T torque converter. I am sure ya know that the Auto tranny's on the 4g63's are pretty much junk i went threw 2 of them on my N/T motor and finally went to 5-speed. also a few notes when changing the harness, change it all dont just add the wires like some people have. it's pretty simple all you need to do is actually take out the heater motors and a few other misc things under the pass side dash. if the car still has Air conditiong you will have to disconnect them lines right behid the battery before you get the AC box out.

as I'm sure you know the N/T downpipe is totally different than the turbo one.


hope this is what you wanted to know.

it took me about an hour to take out and put in a new harness.

Danny

I will disagree 100 percent on the part about the wiring harness and the n/t auto tranny. I have done this swap in a 94 n't car just add the four wires it is much eaiser for you considering you want to retain the n/t auto trans( the connectors for the tranny will be different on the turbo harness for the trans I know I been there have a harness here from a 91 talon tsi I took the wires I need from) . As far as bolting the tranny to the engine. Is the engine a 7 bolt or a 6 bolt engine. If it is a 6 bolt go to the local Mitsu dealer and order a flex plate for a 91 n/t car you will need the one with the 6 bolt center and 3 bolts on the outer edge it will look likt a triangle. The n/t tranny holds up pretty good as long as it is in good shape and you change the fluid and filter. I now have about 5k miles on my swap and have push the car hard and the tranny is holding fine. Make sure you have all the extra electricals for the swap and the ecu. Pretty straight forward swap.

 

[Galaxy]

I asked the guy for a little more detailed explanation..he's just thinking there would be a connector that doesn't match but we'll see...it may all just line up.

 

[junseth]

I will disagree 100 percent on the part about the wiring harness and the n/t auto tranny. I have done this swap in a 94 n't car just add the four wires it is much eaiser for you considering you want to retain the n/t auto trans( the connectors for the tranny will be different on the turbo harness for the trans I know I been there have a harness here from a 91 talon tsi I took the wires I need from) . As far as bolting the tranny to the engine. Is the engine a 7 bolt or a 6 bolt engine. If it is a 6 bolt go to the local Mitsu dealer and order a flex plate for a 91 n/t car you will need the one with the 6 bolt center and 3 bolts on the outer edge it will look likt a triangle. The n/t tranny holds up pretty good as long as it is in good shape and you change the fluid and filter. I now have about 5k miles on my swap and have push the car hard and the tranny is holding fine. Make sure you have all the extra electricals for the swap and the ecu. Pretty straight forward swap.

I have no idea if it is the 6 bolt or 7 bolt. I am new to dsm';s, I am a stealth owner as you can see in my avatar. How do I check?

Also, ive been coming across some weird things on this car. Supposedly there was an engine fire, and they replaced the wiring harness. Well, when I got the car it wasnt running, but I got it to run. It ran half assed. So, I was digging in the hatch and I found a lot of relays that werent installed beneath the dash. I put those in, but I didnt turn it on yet because the waterpump is completely shot and I believe the headgasket is too. The compression is shit on this engine.

Anyways I talked to his brother tonight and he said that when the wiring harness got on fire, they replaced it with one from a GSX. So....I am beginning to think that this is going to be weird .

I now am going to do a search for a thread on pulling the motor

 

[Galaxy]

Easy way to check if its a 6 or 7 bolt is the oil pan,on the drivers side of the pan there will either be a dent,or a hump.The dented one is a 7 bolt and the bumpy one is a 6 bolt.I know that sounds odd and is a vague description but thats what I remember.You can also safely assume that if its a 91 or 90 and has the original motor in it, its a 6 bolt.Early to mid 92 is when they start putting the 7 bolts in.

I just went and got my stainless downpipe,MAS w/filter,and intake tube as its all I can fit in the spyder but should be able to get the engine monday or next weekend.I can't wait to feel boost.