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The 4G63 NT Engine, and How to make a turbo kit for it!

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hi guys..ive been reading this thru..so

do i really need a turbo ECU(wont a SAFC do for starters..im looking for 200hp to start testing with)

ill need a Turbo head gasket and Turbo intake cams,Manifold,14b,DP,O2 housing etc..Waterpipe for runing the cooling lines,Oil lines...do i need the turbo Oil pan?for what?
TB,TB elbow and SMIC and all Hoses

have u guys figured out how to keep the 14b at 7psi?(other than modifying the Actuator?although that would be no prob for me)

i postet in another thread that my car(eurospec) already runs with 95 and 98 octane only (i guess that would help the fuel tuning)

do i need a Turbo fuel pump? wouldnt a walbro 190 do the trick too?

(a turbo ECU would screw up the cars immobilizer as they are programmed to work with its own ECU..a Tubo fuel pump is hard to find..a walbro would be easier to find for me)

12606Picture_002.jpg


its a 2g already..so i dont need a 2g mas right?(why would u need one..again safc)

please help! i want to get this started in August and run tests till October(then ill get a Short block to rebuild and swap every thing over)but i wanna make this thing run first(till it breaks)
 
Raph said:
hi guys..ive been reading this thru..so

do i really need a turbo ECU(wont a SAFC do for starters..im looking for 200hp to start testing with)

ill need a Turbo head gasket and Turbo intake cams,Manifold,14b,DP,O2 housing etc..Waterpipe for runing the cooling lines,Oil lines...do i need the turbo Oil pan?for what?
TB,TB elbow and SMIC and all Hoses

have u guys figured out how to keep the 14b at 7psi?(other than modifying the Actuator?although that would be no prob for me)

i postet in another thread that my car(eurospec) already runs with 95 and 98 octane only (i guess that would help the fuel tuning)

do i need a Turbo fuel pump? wouldnt a walbro 190 do the trick too?

(a turbo ECU would screw up the cars immobilizer as they are programmed to work with its own ECU..a Tubo fuel pump is hard to find..a walbro would be easier to find for me)

12606Picture_002.jpg


its a 2g already..so i dont need a 2g mas right?(why would u need one..again safc)

please help! i want to get this started in August and run tests till October(then ill get a Short block to rebuild and swap every thing over)but i wanna make this thing run first(till it breaks)

You technically don't need a turbo ECU but there is a knock sensor function which acts as a safe guard and retards the timing under turbo pre-detonation. Basically it saves your engine from blowing up under inadequate fuel delivery under boost.

A Walbro 190LPH will be fine.

To keep a 14b at 7psi, you will have to get a turbo shop to change the wastegate bring to a 5psi spring and use a boost controller to raise it to 7psi.
 
thanks man, i might be gettin a rs turbo either to drive or to swap over the motor or to drive and still turbo my 2g..then ill have 2 turbo dsms( the laser is sitting at a lot,im not sure if it will still be there when i get my paycheck :cry: ,if not,ill have to gather all of the parts and turbo my 2g 4g63... :D )

what about the resistor pack? (for the injectors?) if i get aftermarket injectors..wouldnt the SAFC do all the work without a resistor pack?

u turboed ur 4g63 ,so can u please help me make this project work out? :thumb: :D

what about the turbo oil pan..why would i need it? does the DP not clear the nt oil pan or am i missing something here?

the Turbos cooling lines(oil and Water) where did u tap em off from? did u use the GSTs thermostat housing and Waterpipe or did u run the Coolant lines off the Throttlebody?

where did u run the Oil lines off of?

thanks again
 
If you are running low impedance injectors, you'll need the injector resistor pack. You need a turbo oil pan for the oil return line hole. You'll also need a turbo downpipe to mate with the O2 sensor housing. Oil/coolant lines were all taped in the stock location.
 
Figured I'd post my experience since I've gone this path.

I actully used a turbo wiring harness since the plug at the maf is different and I went with a MAFT blow thru setup on a front mount.

780cc injectors so needed to get the resistor pack from a 1g, also with the wiring harness swap you need the resistor pack to complete the circuit otherwise the injectors will never fire (I learned that the hard way)

I went with a PTE 56 trim, no coolant lines to mess with.

used a gvr4 downpipe at first, the flange had to be re-moved and re-aligned to match the rest of the exhaust.

So far with crappy driving my best time is 13.74 @ 109.82 mph
yay for 2.41 60 foots

T
 
Hey,
well i have a 95 GST with a 2g 7-bolt 4g63t, it just took a crap on me and i was suggested to swap in a N/A 4g63 and just swap in all i would need from my 2g GST.

Anyone running the N/A 4g63 at 18+ psi?

Remember i already have a turbo 2g so i can take all i need to make it turbo, do you think it's worth it or just get a turbo engine again?

Thanks
 
So did any one make a step by step for this conversion yet??
I have got evrey thing but dont know where to start.
Thans
Joe
 
i was wondering..

why dont u just get a turbo kit from SBR? its like 1500$..for a basic kit

i bought a 6 bolt car to swap over from,but ive decided to keep the 6 bolt(beast!) and just buy a turbo kit for the 7 bolt N/T...

many of u may be on a strict budget,who isnt..but think of it this way..u have all the parts u need in the turbo kit(gromets,gaskets,seal) to do the job right to begin with..no borrowing cars to run to the dealer..literally no down time etc etc..just my .02
 
Raph said:
i was wondering..

why dont u just get a turbo kit from SBR? its like 1500$..for a basic kit

i bought a 6 bolt car to swap over from,but ive decided to keep the 6 bolt(beast!) and just buy a turbo kit for the 7 bolt N/T...

many of u may be on a strict budget,who isnt..but think of it this way..u have all the parts u need in the turbo kit(gromets,gaskets,seal) to do the job right to begin with..no borrowing cars to run to the dealer..literally no down time etc etc..just my .02


Thanks for that informitve post!
I did get the hole kit but for 650 bucks for every thing I just dont know where to start on the install. :confused:
 
There is a step-by-step conversion page on vfaq.com It is one of the non-turbo to conversion links (there are two). It pretty much tells you absolutly everything if you are keeping your N/T motor as in pistons and stuff. It is so far in depth to say when to take a certain bolt out. I used it for referance but the best way is just to read through it all carefully and then read some more then go try and do it! Good luck everyone
 
would a six bolt or a seven bolt be better to turbo? because i am going to get another n/t motor and turbo it (not that it really matters cuz my lisence is suspended from doing 115 in a 55) :talon:
 
JayJones said:
Man I read a lot of the posts and the answer and such. Instead of buying a turbo ecu i can buy a SAFC but it wont be as safe?

Turbo ECU with knock sensor motor saftey feature and relatively tuned for 450cc injectors - $80
SAFC - $200

Yeah okay, buy a SAFC.
 
There is a spot on the back of the lock on cylinder number 2. Its threaded and MADE for the knock sensor. It screws right in. If you have the intake mani brace on its kind of hard to get to but its attainable.
 
ok guys,update..what Head gasket should i use?

the Mitsu MLS has a .047" thickness

the Cometic MLS has a .051" thickness,also available in .054"

so basically im torn between .051 and .054 " ,now these would theoretically reduce my compression ratio a bit...making my daily driver last untill i get lower compr pistons

what do u think?

oh btw all of these cost like $100
 
I have read this thread front and back a few times but, I would like to get more of a clear statement on how I am going to make the turbo -stay- at 7 psi. Before someone stated to send it to a "turbo shop". Maybe someone could give me an idea where and about the 5 psi spring, where and how can I get one?
Thanks.
 
Hughes said:
I have read this thread front and back a few times but, I would like to get more of a clear statement on how I am going to make the turbo -stay- at 7 psi. Before someone stated to send it to a "turbo shop". Maybe someone could give me an idea where and about the 5 psi spring, where and how can I get one?
Thanks.


i run 7psi with stock internal;s and i still havent changed the hg (its fine,no leaks etc)
car pulls strong from 2000 rpm to about 5500

about your spring,you could either get it at a shop that rebuilds turbos (just drop it off and let them do it if you got 2 left hands)or order it from garett direcly

i would go to a shop,because you can see hands on what your getting and all ,it may save you time and money incase you get the wrong part from garett...

oh@all
the 2g 4g63 nt clutch is holding up fine.... even after dragstrip abuse etc etc..but i have a new one sitting at home,i think im gonna break it soon :rocks:
 
Raph said:
i run 7psi with stock internal;s and i still havent changed the hg (its fine,no leaks etc)
car pulls strong from 2000 rpm to about 5500

about your spring,you could either get it at a shop that rebuilds turbos (just drop it off and let them do it if you got 2 left hands)or order it from garett direcly

i would go to a shop,because you can see hands on what your getting and all ,it may save you time and money incase you get the wrong part from garett...

oh@all
the 2g 4g63 nt clutch is holding up fine.... even after dragstrip abuse etc etc..but i have a new one sitting at home,i think im gonna break it soon :rocks:

He drives a 1g n/t. You can't call garrett. But if you set up the wastegate directly up to the j-pipe, the stock gate will open at 8psi as long as you don't creep.
 
So the wastegate just needs to be ran off the J-pipe and the actuator will open automaically for sure at 8 psi.
 
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