Installing a turbo 4g63 into an nt 4g63

[Galaxy]

I asked the guy for a little more detailed explanation..he's just thinking there would be a connector that doesn't match but we'll see...it may all just line up.

 

[junseth]

I will disagree 100 percent on the part about the wiring harness and the n/t auto tranny. I have done this swap in a 94 n't car just add the four wires it is much eaiser for you considering you want to retain the n/t auto trans( the connectors for the tranny will be different on the turbo harness for the trans I know I been there have a harness here from a 91 talon tsi I took the wires I need from) . As far as bolting the tranny to the engine. Is the engine a 7 bolt or a 6 bolt engine. If it is a 6 bolt go to the local Mitsu dealer and order a flex plate for a 91 n/t car you will need the one with the 6 bolt center and 3 bolts on the outer edge it will look likt a triangle. The n/t tranny holds up pretty good as long as it is in good shape and you change the fluid and filter. I now have about 5k miles on my swap and have push the car hard and the tranny is holding fine. Make sure you have all the extra electricals for the swap and the ecu. Pretty straight forward swap.

I have no idea if it is the 6 bolt or 7 bolt. I am new to dsm';s, I am a stealth owner as you can see in my avatar. How do I check?

Also, ive been coming across some weird things on this car. Supposedly there was an engine fire, and they replaced the wiring harness. Well, when I got the car it wasnt running, but I got it to run. It ran half assed. So, I was digging in the hatch and I found a lot of relays that werent installed beneath the dash. I put those in, but I didnt turn it on yet because the waterpump is completely shot and I believe the headgasket is too. The compression is shit on this engine.

Anyways I talked to his brother tonight and he said that when the wiring harness got on fire, they replaced it with one from a GSX. So....I am beginning to think that this is going to be weird .

I now am going to do a search for a thread on pulling the motor

 

[Galaxy]

Easy way to check if its a 6 or 7 bolt is the oil pan,on the drivers side of the pan there will either be a dent,or a hump.The dented one is a 7 bolt and the bumpy one is a 6 bolt.I know that sounds odd and is a vague description but thats what I remember.You can also safely assume that if its a 91 or 90 and has the original motor in it, its a 6 bolt.Early to mid 92 is when they start putting the 7 bolts in.

I just went and got my stainless downpipe,MAS w/filter,and intake tube as its all I can fit in the spyder but should be able to get the engine monday or next weekend.I can't wait to feel boost.

 

[Gs Dewd]

I have no idea if it is the 6 bolt or 7 bolt. I am new to dsm';s, I am a stealth owner as you can see in my avatar. How do I check?

Also, ive been coming across some weird things on this car. Supposedly there was an engine fire, and they replaced the wiring harness. Well, when I got the car it wasnt running, but I got it to run. It ran half assed. So, I was digging in the hatch and I found a lot of relays that werent installed beneath the dash. I put those in, but I didnt turn it on yet because the waterpump is completely shot and I believe the headgasket is too. The compression is shit on this engine.

Anyways I talked to his brother tonight and he said that when the wiring harness got on fire, they replaced it with one from a GSX. So....I am beginning to think that this is going to be weird .

I now am going to do a search for a thread on pulling the motor

You may want to find a airing schematic somewhere and go over the wiring harness and make sure all your wires are intacted for the engine swap.

 

[Galaxy]

What solenoids do I really need?

I don't recall seeing much about that in the rest of this thread but the air filter/sensor I got for the turbo motor has no aircan with the wastegate solenoid.From what I understand thats not needed with a manual boost controller anyway and if it saves me from running a wire,even better.Is that correct?

Also wondering about the fuel pressure solenoid...I hear alot of people don't even run it if it came on the car so is that really necessary?

Another thought,if I don't hook either one of those up will it throw a CEL or anything dumb like that?

Sorry for the turbo noob questions but thats really the only thing that I'm not sure about as far as the swap goes.

 

[terminaltsi]

right you don't need any of those things. it will save you some wiring time and the car will run fine.

 

[Galaxy]

I found out the main reason that he said I would have to re-use my Cam Angle Sensor....he sold the one that was on his.I have the motor and ECU now but the clutch is shot so before I drop that turbo motor in,I'm going to replace the clutch.

 

[Galaxy]

Skipping the clutch for now because of storage issues but theres one thing I can't find in this thread anymore,either the link dead ends or I can just no longer find it but...What do I do with the damn injector resistor pack? Other than mount it to the firewall I'm just kinda lost on that from what I can read on here.Has anyone found a recent or working link to a photo of what to do?

 

[mavisky]

Tech articles - wiring - injector resistor pack wiring.

 

[Gs Dewd]

Cut your main wiring harness open between the 2 mounts on the firewall look in there for a set of wires that go 4 into 1. Cut the splice out and wire the white or red wire from the res. pack the the white or red wire from your harness then wire the black wires from the harness to the black wires from the res. pack. Solder the connections and heat shrink them. then tape up the wiring harness and your good to go.

 

[Galaxy]

Its been a couple months since I read this thread and I sort of skipped over all the tranny issues as I was just going to use the turbo tranny that came with the motor.What I realized friday is that the NA CV axles do not fit the turbo tranny.Now I'm wondering if I buy the turbo CV axles,will they line up on the wheel side? I have the donor car and can switch hubs if necessary but I'll go back and read closer.

Minor setback but I'm almost there!!!.

 

[mavisky]

The axles should fit unless you've got a 93-94 fwd transmission. They used larger shafts at the transmission so upgrading to the bigger driveshafts is actually a nice thing. The hub end will still be the same size as the nt though so it's not an expensive or detailed swap.

 

[Galaxy]

Ahh,Its a 94 tranny/motor/doner car going into the 92 so that would be why.At least I don't have to swap out hubs/knuckes and all that fun stuff.Thank you again Mavisky.

 

[jwahl425]

well thanks to you mavisky I have swapped in a complete turbo engine and tranny, everything fit great, the only things I had to change were the wiring harness and MAFS because I already setup my N/T to be turbo, I pulled everything from a partially running car. I have the stock fuel pump right now and it runs fine at 9 lbs on a 16G and FMIC, if I put on my N/T FPR will this make me run a little richer? doesn't it have a 1:1 ratio whereas the turbo one is less? I think my fuel pump isn't going to last when I turn it up to 11-13 PSI next, James.

here is my thread where I threw on some turbo parts with my already bad rings and didn't check the oil enough and had rod knock, I then have in there where I swapped the Turbo engine/tranny/ecu w/pics

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205307

 

[mavisky]

the nt fpr has higher base fuel pressure so you can squeeze a little more flow out of the injectors, but it does also have the 1:1 rising rate setup on it so you can safely boost with it. I only ditched mine because I came across a steal of a deal on a used AFPR.

 

[Raph]

speaking of boost, im boosting 12-14 psi now ...on a stock nt motor with stck hg and boy,this bullseye vtrim pulls !

long live the 4g63 !,if nt(+turbo) or turbo,these motors are strong!

 

[19Eclipse90]

Alright, I've read this thread and completed the swap. However, I am now having trouble with the clutch working correctly. I had a local DSM guru take a look at it; he tells me that the N/T has a different clutch pedal assembly than the turbo, something or another about a lever at the end of the rod attached to the pedal. So in opting to keep the turbo transmission, we have to change out this lever for the turbo one. I don't remember seeing this mentioned anywhere in this thread, though it may have been since it's been half a year since I read it, but I find it notable.

 

[mavisky]

Clutch pedal and slave assemblies should be the same. What "problems" are you having, and what parts are you using?

 

[19Eclipse90]

The motor and transmission are out of a 91 TSI with a turbo master and slave cylinder. The car is a 90 N/T Eclipse with all of it's otherwise N/T parts. Our problem is that the clutch is not disengaging. When the pressure plate was torqued down, the fingers on it went basically flat. The Mitsu dealership put it on a press and showed us that it does disengage after like 1/4 of an inch of travel from it's original position. We completely replaced the clutch kit even with the other one being not even 5 miles old. We bled it, adjusted it, did everything in our power to get it working. What I cannot understand is that with the N/T motor in there, we had no problems, the clutch worked fine. Now all of a sudden we are hit with this. We did find that the flywheel was not ground down enough, something I don't think I've ever heard of, so this DSM guru is machining it for us. But other than that itt makes no sense to me, which is why this 'lever' sounds like it's the only thing left.

 

[mavisky]

What clutch/flywheel are you using with the turbo transmission?

 

[19Eclipse90]

Some O'Reilly's clutch kit. It's my almost 16 year old little brother's car, so 1) he's too poor to put in a performance clutch, and 2) he really shouldn't need it on a stock car. The flywheel is the stock turbo flywheel. I'm helping him do the mechanics on it since he's knew to the stuff, but I don't want to put the transmission up again (done it three times so far) and try it if it's not going to work and I have to take it back down again.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Okay so I found something I find pretty interesting. According to this DSM guy I've been getting my info from, both clutch pedal assemblies should have coil/springs attached to them. Well here's some pics of my turbo car's clutch pedal assembly.

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Compared to the turbo conversion car's clutch pedal assembly

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Now does this look right to you guys? According to the guy I've been talking to, the non-turbo should have had a coil/spring thing in there, but it doesn't. I am not completely sure if that is causing the problem, but the non-turbo definitely does not have a spring/coil thing.

 

[mavisky]

Hmm, never looked at mine I guess. Eitherway the nt one has been working fine for me.

 

[19Eclipse90]

It may not be different on yours. Remember, I'm using a 91 turbo motor and swapping it into a 90 non-turbo body. I've never heard of it being different, but it may just be for the 90 model year n/t.
Also, I found that the step on the flywheel was not correct, so we had it machined to the correct step. I believe my little bro and my dad are going to try it out and see if it works without swapping the pedal assemblies because I hear it's no easy task getting them out so they will save that for last.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Alright, finally got this thing figured out. After having the flywheel machined, it still didn't work.
Working with it a little more, my dad and bro found out that the soft hose for the hydraulic line from the master to the slave was worn out and expanding when the pedal was depressed. This didn't allow for full travel of the slave cylinder to push the fork/TOB into the pressure plate.
Interesting little system, but it works well now. I guess there is no issue with the clutch pedal assembly...