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The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

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I did something interesting last night....I ran 3 passes on normal 93 pump gas then drained the tank and put in 5 gallons of E85 for a somewhat back to back test. I was exhausted from working 2nd shift all week and just didn't have the energy to swap on the hoosiers or do any of the weight loss stuff (seats out, exhaust off). I knew the 60' times were going to be horrendous with these bald 215/45/17 decade old kumho H rated tires. Even if I bogged off the line, they would break loose as boost came up in first gear.

I had literally swapped the DSMlink chip in this afternoon and got it working about 4:30pm, so I basically went to the track with a completely untuned car and just winged it. I worked on the VE map 3 times on the way over to the track and got the A/F dialed in and smoothed out the timing curve. So tonight was an experimental night to learn the DSMlink software and screw around with an alcohol fuel for the first time.

Here's the runs:
13.351 @ 104.91 1.812 ~19psi boost.
13.178 @ 104.74 1.853
13.076 @ 105.09 1.814 Last pass on 93 gas
13.009 @ 106.95 1.812 First pass on E85.
12.882 @ 108.49 1.863
12.841 @ 109.06 1.910 (bogged launch)
12.792 @ 108.98 1.771 (spun in first a bit)

No video or pics. I'll post some screen shots and datalogs for anyone intersted in them. I want to see about overlaying the calculated HP/TQ graphs and map sensor between the 93 and E85 runs.

I changed the global fuel adjustment in DSMlink by changing the stoicheometric value of the fuel from 14.7 to 9.8. That took my global adjustment from like -42% to -13% I think and that made up the majority of the difference in energy content between gasoline and ethanol. After that I kept trimming away at the VE map to lean it out more after each run. (trying to aim for about 11.0 A/F on the gasoline scale wideband) BUT I wasn't running pure E85...there was some residual 93 pumpgas that you can't drain out of the tank as well as what was in both long lines, rail, injectors, filter, and pump. I might have been running something like E70? I think you need to fill the tank a couple times with E85 before it becomes absolutely pure. on gasoline I saw a maximum injector duty cycle of 62%, on E85 I was running about 80%. Same 40psi fuel pressure and similar high 10's A/F ratios. Running an intank walbro 255 and FIC 750cc injectors.

Remember, a little 14b that makes a whopping 32lb/min of airflow and barely can keep above 20psi. I might be able to max out these 750's on E85 with a 16g?

Then I drive the GVR4 over to the shop this morning to meet someone for parts and unload the tool box, gas cans, and track stuff, it wasn't making much boost and felt sluggish. On the way home, I got on it on one straight road...it made 20psi for about a second than a "snap" sound and then no boost. Just smoke. I got it home, pulled the intake, and the comp wheel/shaft is flopping around like the bearing is totally wasted.

:aha:Hindsight 20/20 note: I'v been running the AEM boost controller on the A setting at 65% duty cycle for my pumpgas everyday setting and using the B setting for racetrack. It used to be about 20-21psi on the A...but I was only seeing 19-18psi on my first 3 runs. Then when I put the E85 on, I switched over to the B setting of 73% which hasn't been touched or used since the 12.0 @ 113 night when it was making 26psi falling to about 22. Last night that barely made 21psi at all. I turned it up to 85% over those 4 runs which only got me 24psi falling to 20. Guess it just didn't right the bell that I was running more boost controller duty cycle than last time and seeing less boost. Bet the turbo was eating itself last night at the track.

And wouldn't you know it...I sold the last 14b I had this morning. Now the 14b I was planning to move onto the yellow DSM is blown. sux!:toobad: So while I was thinking last night at home that I had at least got a decent base tune to start the talon project on E85, it seems I made one step forward and then one step back by blowing up the turbo.

Interesting stuff with the E85. Bummer about the turbo:notgood:

Thanks Phil I was hoping you would chime in here. As for tire pressure I was at 28 psi I know it was high but honestly forgot about adjusting it and didn't bring a tire pressure gauge anyway.I figure I might aswell throw the tires and rims on cause they are alot lighter and the tire's are 225/45/17's wich will definately aid in traction . I know I need to do the clutch to but I was kinda hoping to do the tranny aswell when it's out so will see I guess . What kinda a/f ratio's are you running now? I do know my wieght is heavy but I don't want to strip the car to much I still want to have interior in it I would be happy to run a mid 12 right now anyway. Why an o2 dump ? whats the gain? Was just wondering what is the record for fastest 14b car in Canada?
Thanks again

You are welcome, anytime! Gotcha. Using street tires I would run tire pressure at 20 or so in my FWD Laser's in front, in the rear I'd pump them up to 40. 225/50/16 on one car and I had the huge sidewall 15's on my second Laser which were optimal for street tire drag launches, unfortunately I only made 2-3 passes with that car at the '04 shooutout and ran best of 14.5@95 because I had too little fuel in the tank it was hesitating in 3rd gear:D. With my first Laser I ran as low as 18 psi in the front...don't think I ever went better than 2.2 60's times though.....maybe one 2.19 or so. I hear you on not wanting to pull to much weight out. If you can do a tranny at the same time that would be great. My A/F's are not relative unless you're running race gas but they are right about 12.2:1. The O2 dump really works great with small turbos. It's almost like increasing the size of your exhaust in a way....by venting the wastegate exhaust gases at the O2, the turbine wheel gets to use the exhaust all to it's own which lets the turbo spool quicker and lets more escape at wide open throttle which gets you some more power, at least this is my understanding......put it this way, when I took off my ported O2 and replaced it with the ported O2 dump, my best run went from [email protected] right down to [email protected] at the same boost level. That simple.

I don't know about any 14b cars in Canada, just carfanatic's killer 16g powered car......sorry I can't help you there......how bout it should be you! Go for it !

I tried 3,000 rpms but it would just bog out. I pretty much stuck with 3,500. Next time I'll try something in between and also try lowering the tire pressure. I was trying and trying for 13's and I know the key is in the 60'. Here were all of my runs in order:

60' ET MPH
2.8 17.6 95.5 (Launch at 4k, spun all through 1st)
2.7 14.7 101.9 (no launch, best MPH)
2.8 15.0 100.6 (launch at 3k)
2.5 14.6 100.6 (started launching at 3.5k)
2.3 14.4 99.5 (best 60')
2.5 14.7 98.8
2.6 14.9 89.2 (on the brakes, I had 0 boost on gauge, blew my gauge line off)
2.6 14.7 101.5
2.4 14.3 101.1 (best ET)
2.5 14.6 99.7

Most of the runs were back to back and it was 95* so I'm sure my SMIC was heat soaked like crazy. Any other tips y'all have for getting traction, I'm all ears. I want 13's!


These are some nice runs....shows you're learning and experimenting which in my experience is necessary with the FWD's for sure. 2.3 60' is definitely a good street tire 60' for the FWD's in my opinion. If you were bogging---you don't wan't to drop tire pressure.....leave it there and raise your launch rpm, or raise the pressure.......

My first Laser had a K&N, modded aircan, hollow cat, 18psi, that's it for mods, blowing through stock muffler and all---with a 2.37 60' went [email protected]. This car had 170,000 original miles, with back seats and spare/tools removed. My key to running that ET was to NEVER go full throttle in first or second gear. I probably went 50% in 1st gear and maybe 75% in second then hammer down in 3rd gear. The turbo still spools very quickly at part throttle and wheel spin was controllable. I was launching around 2500 rpm only. This car had no suspension modification at all and was at stock ride height.......if I ever ran a drag radial and could muster even a 2.1 60' time....it's a 13 second car, maybe as quick as 13.6. But, I never ran after the 14.0 as the Laser was just the fill-in car when I was working on the talon.
 
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These are some nice runs....shows you're learning and experimenting which in my experience is necessary with the FWD's for sure. 2.3 60' is definitely a good street tire 60' for the FWD's in my opinion. If you were bogging---you don't wan't to drop tire pressure.....leave it there and raise your launch rpm, or raise the pressure.......

My first Laser had a K&N, modded aircan, hollow cat, 18psi, that's it for mods, blowing through stock muffler and all---with a 2.37 60' went [email protected]. This car had 170,000 original miles, with back seats and spare/tools removed. My key to running that ET was to NEVER go full throttle in first or second gear. I probably went 50% in 1st gear and maybe 75% in second then hammer down in 3rd gear. The turbo still spools very quickly at part throttle and wheel spin was controllable. I was launching around 2500 rpm only. This car had no suspension modification at all and was at stock ride height.......if I ever ran a drag radial and could muster even a 2.1 60' time....it's a 13 second car, maybe as quick as 13.6. But, I never ran after the 14.0 as the Laser was just the fill-in car when I was working on the talon.

Thanks for all the positive comments and advise guys. I was running 14 psi and it was creeping to about 17. I'm sure 18 psi would get me into the 13's but I don't have a logger yet as I'm going to get v3 lite and don't want to spend money twice.

Launching at 3,500 rpms I had some wheel hop and then some squealing near the end of first gear. Once I hit second I didn't have anymore traction problems. I'll try to post a video soon.

I'm now sure my goal of 13's is obtainable with my same set up (without spending anymore money). The way I see it I can play with tire pressure and rpms on the launch for a good 60'; I can up the boost a little for higher top end power; Or I can shed some weight. I was racing with a FULL interior, both front seats, back seats, seat belts, carpet, all trim, etc. Or of course a combination of all 3. :thumb:

Here is a video of my 14.4 @ 99.5 MPH run.
[video=P6200887.AVI]73[/video]
 
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Thanks for all the positive comments and advise guys. I was running 14 psi and it was creeping to about 17. I'm sure 18 psi would get me into the 13's but I don't have a logger yet as I'm going to get v3 lite and don't want to spend money twice.

Launching at 3,500 rpms I had some wheel hop and then some squealing near the end of first gear. Once I hit second I didn't have anymore traction problems. I'll try to post a video soon.

I'm now sure my goal of 13's is obtainable with my same set up (without spending anymore money). The way I see it I can play with tire pressure and rpms on the launch for a good 60'; I can up the boost a little for higher top end power; Or I can shed some weight. I was racing with a FULL interior, both front seats, back seats, seat belts, carpet, all trim, etc. Or of course a combination of all 3. :thumb:

Here is a video of my 14.4 @ 99.5 MPH run.
[video=P6200887.AVI]73[/video]

Nice vid, car sounds very nice....I say, leave it full weight for now, dial in the driving and then add that extra pound of boost or so. Add some front control arm poly bushings and that should help as well.
 
Nice vid, car sounds very nice....I say, leave it full weight for now, dial in the driving and then add that extra pound of boost or so. Add some front control arm poly bushings and that should help as well.

Thanks again! One thing about my run that I found interesting is that I lose traction at the beginning and end of first gear. You can hear it on the video, that second squeal is the end of first, not the beginning of second.

Front end control arm poly bushings will help with the wheel hop? If that's the case I'll do that next.
 
In my fwd once I went with the pro kit springs and agx's my wheel hop was all gone. I'm surprised you have that issue considering your running the same shocks and springs. Im curious where you have your agx's set when you run it down the track? I had heavy 17" rims with low profile all season sport tires which were really hard rubber and terrible for traction so that might be why. I managed to muster a 2.3 60' time and 14.4 @101mph. It was all stock except for a wally 255 supra sidemount with 2.5" piping and 2.5" tbe at about 18psi. I know now that my driving was horrid at the track cause with that car at 20psi (0 knock believe it or not) from a 2nd gear roll I would hang door to door with my buddies high 12 second mustang. Fwd was fun but I hated the traction issue. My old awd with many more mods was trapping the same 101mph only the et's(13.4') were a full second quicker than my fwd :thumb: Its nice seeing someone rocking the fwd now a days. Good luck and keep us updated.
 
Thanks again! One thing about my run that I found interesting is that I lose traction at the beginning and end of first gear. You can hear it on the video, that second squeal is the end of first, not the beginning of second.

Front end control arm poly bushings will help with the wheel hop? If that's the case I'll do that next.

I do hear that......weird! The bushings will help the excessive forward-rearward motion of the wheels during hard launching which will aid in preventing wheel hop. If I missed it somewhere sorry, but you have poly motor mounts right?
 
In my fwd once I went with the pro kit springs and agx's my wheel hop was all gone. I'm surprised you have that issue considering your running the same shocks and springs. Im curious where you have your agx's set when you run it down the track? I had heavy 17" rims with low profile all season sport tires which were really hard rubber and terrible for traction so that might be why. I managed to muster a 2.3 60' time and 14.4 @101mph. It was all stock except for a wally 255 supra sidemount with 2.5" piping and 2.5" tbe at about 18psi. I know now that my driving was horrid at the track cause with that car at 20psi (0 knock believe it or not) from a 2nd gear roll I would hang door to door with my buddies high 12 second mustang. Fwd was fun but I hated the traction issue. My old awd with many more mods was trapping the same 101mph only the et's(13.4') were a full second quicker than my fwd :thumb: Its nice seeing someone rocking the fwd now a days. Good luck and keep us updated.

I have my AGX's set at full soft (1) in the front and full stiff (10) in the rear. I was only running 14 psi but it was creeping up to about 17 psi higher in the RPMs. My wheels are 17" Dodge Avenger aluminum rims with crappy 215/50/17 Riken Raptor tires set at 32 psi.


I do hear that......weird! The bushings will help the excessive forward-rearward motion of the wheels during hard launching which will aid in preventing wheel hop. If I missed it somewhere sorry, but you have poly motor mounts right?

Yes, I have all 4 Prothane motor mounts. I'm going to order the Energy Suspension Front Control Arm bushing kit in the morning and give it a try.

Is that type of tire spin common? Usually you hear of it spinning right after a shift, not right before it, LOL. My car does that every time, street or track.
 
Cool, the control arm bushings will help for sure, the less flex and movement within the suspension will enable you to dial in your launch alot easier and inputs in the form of launch rpm and tire pressure changes will yield more consistent results. With too much play you can make changes and not see any results......


.....years back, a friend of mine designed and produced some traction bars for the front control arms for Nissan SE-R cars that seemed to work very well. basically a solid link between the control arm and the chassis or subframe. They had heim joints at either end to be adjusted properly and allow up/down motion of the suspension. This is an idea if you get serious with the drag racing and of course these parts could be unbolted quickly if you didn't want to run them on the street. Obviously, they would have to be created for the DSM's.....
 
I have my AGX's set at full soft (1) in the front and full stiff (10) in the rear. I was only running 14 psi but it was creeping up to about 17 psi higher in the RPMs. My wheels are 17" Dodge Avenger aluminum rims with crappy 215/50/17 Riken Raptor tires set at 32 psi.


I used to have my fronts set right in the middle and it seemed to help with torque steer a bit. I never messed with the tire pressure on my low profile tires. They were 235/40/17"s so they didn't have much sidewall to play with.
 

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Holy crud, nice polishing Phil. Mine was nicely ported but has definately lost any and all polish haha! I've considered polishing it up but figured the gains would be nil. Maybe I'll get bored one day when I have it off and clean it up, I do however have my compressor inlet bell shaped and polished.

Anyways, my project is going to be slowed once again, at least for any new mods. We had our offer accepted on a house so we'll finally be getting out of this apartment. We're going to do the inspection today and we should be closing on it about mid July :D Finally I'll have a garage to work in of my own!
 
That is some nice polishing. That's about what I shoot for when I port and polish parts for people locally. One thing I would suggest to anyone who has the money and is REALLY pushing a certain turbo to it's max is extrude honing. It will get the inner portion of the housing down where the airflow meets the turbine wheel. Then you could polish it up if needed. It's rather expensive, but it will make more of a difference than porting alone. At any rate, the porting and polishing looks great and should help A LOT!
 
What was your polishing process? It looks great! Is this cast iron as the original units (not even sure if the original ones were cast iron)?
 
Holy crud, nice polishing Phil. Mine was nicely ported but has definately lost any and all polish haha! I've considered polishing it up but figured the gains would be nil. Maybe I'll get bored one day when I have it off and clean it up, I do however have my compressor inlet bell shaped and polished.

Anyways, my project is going to be slowed once again, at least for any new mods. We had our offer accepted on a house so we'll finally be getting out of this apartment. We're going to do the inspection today and we should be closing on it about mid July :D Finally I'll have a garage to work in of my own!

Thanks Shane! I just wanted to see what I could do with it. Not that the VR4 is gonna be any street screamer, but why not ? Believe it or not, the housing on my Talon was never polished at all. I hear you on losing the polish....especially when I run race gas....the exhaust components definitely have some build up because of that. I would think the polished surface would stay that way alot longer on a car that only runs unleaded fuels. As far as gains, not too sure, I do remember Greg Horn(old school fast 14b guy- 12.40@110) telling me to "micro" polish all my exhaust stuff if I ever had the chance.....I will polish the 7cm housing when it goes on before the next track visit.

Congrats on the House! That's great! The one thing I've learned is that part of your, "time to work on the car," becomes --- time to work on the house! Nonetheless, nothing better than having your own pad!

That is some nice polishing. That's about what I shoot for when I port and polish parts for people locally. One thing I would suggest to anyone who has the money and is REALLY pushing a certain turbo to it's max is extrude honing. It will get the inner portion of the housing down where the airflow meets the turbine wheel. Then you could polish it up if needed. It's rather expensive, but it will make more of a difference than porting alone. At any rate, the porting and polishing looks great and should help A LOT!

Thanks alot! I would love to send my FP race mani and my turbine bolted to it for EXTRUDEHONE-ing, I would send the O2 bolted as well but I have an S/S now and not sure it would do much there. But, like you said, the cost is immense. I also wanted to do my intake mani, but $440 is big smoke....hell, I thought $295 back in the day was quite a bit. I really would like to see what the results would be.....

So Phil, you going in to a private business of porting and polishing turbine housings? Looks great man! Should flow like no one's business.

You know Trav, it's an idea! I don't have the neccessary tools to do porting, but I would certainly invest if there was a demand. I do like doing that stuff for sure. I hope the VR4 likes this one! So, my old 2G ported mani, that turbine housing, and my O2 dump that Jeff Carpenter did for me back in 1998 are on the car now, still stock exhaust though except for the PBSPEED high flow cat. I'll still run stock boost for now, but, I'm sure before too long there will be a boost guage hidden in the glove box and boost will be at 15 or so. Still have an old Extreme MBC in the tool box and another Turbosmart MBC like I run in the talon now. No extra boost guages though!!!! Hopefully the VR4 will be together within the next 2 weeks and I can finally enjoy it!

What was your polishing process? It looks great! Is this cast iron as the original units (not even sure if the original ones were cast iron)?

Whelp, honestly, I did this the old school way with a pile of different grade sandpapers. Starting at about 50 grit and running up through about 15 different grits and wetsanding at 600 up to 2000. Once that's done, I have an aluminum polish that a local guy came up with and it extracts all the contaminants in the metal and when buffed off leaves a luster like I've never seen before. You basically polish with it until the rag no longer turns gray from the loose metal particles and then buff it off. Obviously, if I were to try to do this as a small business, compressor, air tools, and different bits for porting and polishing would be smart purchases. This housing took 10 hours or so to make it look like that. In part because the guy that ported it didn't make a perfect ramp in....he must have been holding the bit straight for a while when doing the outer edge and it made a gradual groove or ring around about 1 inch in, so I didn't get all of the imperfections, but close. Either way, very happy with how it came out and I will keep experimenting for sure. And, yes, this is an original cast iron turbine housing. Thanks for the props!!!
 
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You know Trav, it's an idea! I don't have the neccessary tools to do porting, but I would certainly invest if there was a demand. I do like doing that stuff for sure. I hope the VR4 likes this one! So, my old 2G ported mani, that turbine housing, and my O2 dump that Jeff Carpenter did for me back in 1998 are on the car now, still stock exhaust though except for the PBSPEED high flow cat. I'll still run stock boost for now, but, I'm sure before too long there will be a boost guage hidden in the glove box and boost will be at 15 or so. Still have an old Extreme MBC in the tool box and another Turbosmart MBC like I run in the talon now. No extra boost guages though!!!! Hopefully the VR4 will be together within the next 2 weeks and I can finally enjoy it!
Phil i have an extra boost gauge that i would like to donate to your worthy cause. I had it in the classifieds for half of what i paid for it, and if i can't get that, i mine as well see it go to a good cause. I thought about holding on to it for a dsm that could possibly be joining the stable ('97 GST spyder that has been at my companies impound lot for over 6 months) but there is still no word on when we will have paper work for it. PM me your address again and i'll ship it out if you want it. It's not the nicest or best looking gauge (Prosmart white/orage back lighting), but hey if your hiding it in the glove box like said above, as long as it works right. Let me know and it's yours.


-Travis
 
Phil i have an extra boost gauge that i would like to donate to your worthy cause. I had it in the classifieds for half of what i paid for it, and if i can't get that, i mine as well see it go to a good cause. I thought about holding on to it for a dsm that could possibly be joining the stable ('97 GST spyder that has been at my companies impound lot for over 6 months) but there is still no word on when we will have paper work for it. PM me your address again and i'll ship it out if you want it. It's not the nicest or best looking gauge (Prosmart white/orage back lighting), but hey if your hiding it in the glove box like said above, as long as it works right. Let me know and it's yours.


-Travis

Thanks very much man...I really appreciate it! The car will be alot more fun with those 4 extra pounds of boost for sure.:thumb:

Spyder GS-T would definitely be a fun cruiser for sure.....hopefully the paperwork will surface soon on that......
 
I was finally able to get some work done on my car, had to wait 2 and a half weeks for a die grinder to get here. :mad:

Spent about 2-3 hours porting the 6cm housing, 2g manifold and o2 housing. I didn't get any pictures but I think it turned out pretty good. I got the 6cm housing to look like a pte unit with the wastegate passage opening and did the same to the o2 housing. I left the exhaust ports basically stock on the manifold but ported out the collector and smoothed it. Can't wait to get it running again, she's been down for a month and a half.

Quick shot of how it sits now-
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I was finally able to get some work done on my car, had to wait 2 and a half weeks for a die grinder to get here. :mad:

Spent about 2-3 hours porting the 6cm housing, 2g manifold and o2 housing. I didn't get any pictures but I think it turned out pretty good. I got the 6cm housing to look like a pte unit with the wastegate passage opening and did the same to the o2 housing. I left the exhaust ports basically stock on the manifold but ported out the collector and smoothed it. Can't wait to get it running again, she's been down for a month and a half.

Quick shot of how it sits now-
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Nice!, should go good, looking forward to seeing you run well:thumb:
 
Got my wideband installed last night, running extremely rich. At WOT I'm at about 10.1:1 - 10.3:1. At cruise I'm nowhere near 14.7:1 either running at about 13.3:1 on average. So there will be some more power to be found by fine tuning the A/F ratios. Only other issue I found last night was somewhat strange. I found that with my headlights on my idle will stay rock steady but as soon as I turn the headlights off I end up with idle surge. I would assume it's either in the alternator or wiring system, most likely the alternator.

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Got my wideband installed last night, running extremely rich. At WOT I'm at about 10.1:1 - 10.3:1. At cruise I'm nowhere near 14.7:1 either running at about 13.3:1 on average. So there will be some more power to be found by fine tuning the A/F ratios. Only other issue I found last night was somewhat strange. I found that with my headlights on my idle will stay rock steady but as soon as I turn the headlights off I end up with idle surge. I would assume it's either in the alternator or wiring system, most likely the alternator.

Nice Shane! Yeah, our cars run pretty fat right out of the box. I remember a dyno day at Altered Atmosphere in late '02 or early '03 and my A/F's were leanest at about 10.8:1. That's on the stock ECU with no fuel control or upgrade FPR or anything. The car made 265.9 AWHP and 282 TQ at that time. I remember the guys wishing I had an AFC in the car......

....anyway, you definitely have some power lurking there:thumb: I'm sure you'll figure out the surge issue. The above suggestion sounds like a good place to start.

Bad ISC...Working on that currently. I'm pretty sure I have a spare somewhere.

That was fast! Glad you figured it out!
 
Nice Shane! Yeah, our cars run pretty fat right out of the box. I remember a dyno day at Altered Atmosphere in late '02 or early '03 and my A/F's were leanest at about 10.8:1. That's on the stock ECU with no fuel control or upgrade FPR or anything. The car made 265.9 AWHP and 282 TQ at that time. I remember the guys wishing I had an AFC in the car......


What was your set up Phil?
 
What was your set up Phil?

At that point in time:
-Modded factory aircan with K&N
-3" turbo back Extreme/ATR
-Extreme MBC @20-21 psi
-ported 2G mani
-ported O2 with external dump
-Walbro 255 low pressure fuel pump
-ACT 2600 PP/Street disc---still in the car now....
-Magnecor plug wires

That's it beside weight reduction. The ECU, injectors, FPR, I/C, piping, all that was bone stock

Best run at that time was 12.02@112
Best MPH was 113.17 on a 12.05 run
 
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