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T3 GT3076 vs FP3052

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Well here are some of my thoughts. Do you know who's 5 bolt T3 housing it is? Most companies just machine the older style T31 housing to accept the GT turbine wheel. With this being said the 5 bolt of this design is going to be the least efficient, with the 4 bolt T31 machined housing being better. If you go Tnetics or Treadstone cast mani, they are designed for the 5 bolt so if you want to run the 4 bolt you need a spacer between the mani & turbine inlet, then you will have enough BS tunnel to turbine housing clearance. If you do want a T3 5 bolt housing I would go with the one ATP turbo makes. Their housing is custom cast to mirror the GT housing internally & will out perform the machined style 4 & 5 bolt houisngs (close to GT housing performance), think of it as a GT housing with a 2.5" outlet vs the GT's 3". If you want to stick to mitsu I would defently go FP as its housing was to designed for the GT wheel, I would imagine the other housing such as the PTE bolt on would mirror the Mitsu internally having an asymetrical volute & probably just machined to accept the wheel, so this would probably be the worst choice as far as performance goes. Personally I changed my mind from the T3 setup because I wanted to run a cast mani being a DD & I thought the FP setup would be more appealing as far as more stock looking, very proven, source all parts from one location, availability of O2 housing etc. And I like the placement of the WG much better.


I believe there are a good number of people running the Bullseye housing & if you wanted to stick to Mitsu style & didn't want to go the FP route (which is defently my first choice), I would probably recommend the BE housing. Reason being it too is custom cast & has a symetrical volute & the A/R is around .55 so I believe this would be a better performing housing vs the Mitsu style.

One other thing you have the 3" comp inlet, without the surge ports? If so I would think its probably a good idea to pick up the 4" inlet version with the surge ports as this is a very quick spooling turbo for its size & you will probably run into surge issues with a straight 3" inlet. The one good thing is that the BB center section in this turbo is much less effected by surge compared to a thrust bearing style center section.

I did have another thread that was called 5031RLE vs 3431RLE vs GT3076, when I was trying to descide which route to go. In there I descided to go 3076 & was going to go with T# so there is alot of housing talk & info that I researched so thats probably a thread that would also be helpful to you.
 
Daren, thanks for the fast reply. Im not sure which housing i have i just know that its the precision t3 housing(not sure of the A/R either). i just got done reading your other thread and it seems like u were in my shoes a little while back. I seen that u asked precision if thier housing was machined just to fit the 3076 wheel or was it made to mimik the gt housing internally? i didnt know if you heard anything back from that or not. I kind of feel like im putting the bullseye housing out as it does not interest me as much at the fp housing. But im still undecided on wether to keep it t3 for the power increase over mitsu that i hear about. I was really interested in the treadstone mani with a 38mm then just make my own o2 setup but i just cant decide.
 
Well you already know what my choice was, I went with gt turbine with vband, with the acception of gt35r instead of 30r (same difference as far as hooking it all together). I think that bullseye is currently developing a whole line up of A/R's to choose from so call them direct and see when those should debut. They also offer internal gate if you truly want to keep initial costs down and want to go external at a later time. Same with the compressor housing, don't switch until there's a problem, but don't be suprised if there's surge either.

Guys the mani and O2 are being sent out wednesday, hopefully wiull have some pictures of it layed out for you guys next week. Installed pics the week after.



Now as for the FP hopusing goes, I love there turbo setup's alot but I don't really consider what they sell to be a bolt on turbo, as described. If your buying their turbo, 9 out of 10 are buying their O2's, drain/feed lines and waste gates, so to me it's a kit missing a manifold. The only benefit in going this route IMO was utilizing the stock manifold, wich I had intended to change anyway, so it was no longer a benefit. With that in mind, I decided to go full T3, however it was much harder to find well built parts for. NO_ONE was selling the O2 I needed/wanted with any sort of advertisement, it was by shear coincidence that I was talking to nick about O2's when he said building me one wouldn't be a problem. After getting screwed by victory I asked SLS what they had and they showed me pics of their prior work and gave me and awesome price (289). Not your basic O2 housing either..........


I think over all, in summation, Garrett housings for adjustability and obvious pruven performance, FP for identical performance (better built turbine housing) and simplicity, andBullseye for practicality however they are making changes to their line up very soon. They are talking about expanding into T3 housings with different A/R's and optional internal gate delete for exertnal use.
 
I did hear from PTE, their 5 bolt housing is just machined to accept the GT wheel, just like the T31 style 4 bolt turbine housing direct from Garrett. Is your the 4 or 5 bolt housing?

Being a DD I wanted to keep the cast mani, otherwise I think the route definitiveno is taking with the true GT 3" oulet housing is defently a good route to go, I know if I did want to run I tubular mani, I would probably run this as well.

I will be ordering my FP setup the first week or two in Feb, so Im still thinking I'll go with the 3052 just because of my main uses for the car. Just for curiosity, I know spool times car be largely effected by mods but whats the approx sppol difference in the 3052 vs the 3065? I'm thinking about 500 rpms & with stock 2g intake mani, head but with upgraded cams they would put me at 20 psi around 4000 with the 52 & 4500 with the 65. With a stroker I probably wouldn't think twice about going with the 65 as I believe its better suited but are there guys running the 65 on the 2.0L?
 
Daren P I'm glad you are doing alot of research on your turbo selection I did the same, I wanted to make sure I was going to be completely satisfied with my choice. But let me add one thing. I chose to go with a little larger turbo then I orginally planned just because I knew in the future I would want to go faster and and that will naturally happen if you are like any other speed junky. I'm running a T3 t67 which is MUCH larger then anything you had it mind, BUT I will tell you I drive my car on the street and lag is NOT an issue at ALL. On my pump gas tune of 18 psi I made 460 awhp saw full boost at 4100 rpms which isnt horrible. Remember you can run lower boost with a larger turbo until you have the supporting mods to turn up the wick. I'm not telling you to buy a bigger turbo but its something to consider because for me I dont like to double buy things especially things that will only give me a little bit of use like a turbo set up. I'd rather only spend 1300 bucks on a turbo once and never have to replace it again because it will be capable of going as fast as I could ever want to go. But if you are satisfied with the 3052 great. I just wanted to offer some insight for anything you plan on doing in the future and maybe try to save you some money LOL. Good luck!
 
^^^ I know exactly what you mean about going big so you don't have to upgrade again. As far as supporting mods, Im set, the weak like now would be the stock 7 bolt which is basically what Im basing my choice on. I'm fwd so there are no plans for a stroker in my future & if I keep the car for the long long, a built motor probably won't be in the picture anytime soon as I want to buy a house in the coming years so there will be lots of other areas to spend my money.

Lag is defently overrated as far as racing and highway driving where you can just downshift but my car is DD to & from work every day in the summer & spends slot of time in stop & go traffic & not on the highway. I just don't want to have to downshift everytime I just want to squeeze in somewhere, pass etc. My thoughts are with the evoIII if I try to do this at say anywhere less then around 2500 rpm the car is gutless, now my evoIII sees full spool right around 3500 so I would imagine the 3065 will add atleast another 1000 rpms to this. So my thoughts is that the car would now be gutless at anything lower then 3500 rpm & alot of the time your not cruising around at 4000+ rpms in traffic. If I was driving on the wideopen highway alot of the time I don't think the extra lag would bother me at all.
 
Yes i would think a bigger turbo would be preffered for heavy street driving, WAY BETTER gas milage.
 
Yea I have the 5 bolt turbine housing. Im a lil dissapointed to hear that its just cut to fit the 30 wheel because i was leaning more toward the t3 route. The more I think about it now the more i think the FP housing would work best. It may cost a lil more but in the long run im sure it will pay off. I`ll get to keep my hogged out 2g mani, fitment shouldnt be a problem, and most important im staying true to mitsu:talon: . If i were to go with the FP housing the turbo would be placed in the same location as stock. Since the 3076 is water cooled will the stock water lines fit considering its in the same place?Thanks for the help again A.J.

Daren, it seems like you have your setup pretty much picked out now. I think you will be really impressed with the 3052. Fp must be selling those things like crazy. I read reviews all the time on how much people love em. I think either way you go(52 or 65) plenty of power can be made, and years of reliability should be seen. Hope for the best and cant wait to see some reviews.
 
Yea I have the 5 bolt turbine housing. Im a lil dissapointed to hear that its just cut to fit the 30 wheel because i was leaning more toward the t3 route. The more I think about it now the more i think the FP housing would work best. It may cost a lil more but in the long run im sure it will pay off. I`ll get to keep my hogged out 2g mani, fitment shouldnt be a problem, and most important im staying true to mitsu:talon: . If i were to go with the FP housing the turbo would be placed in the same location as stock. Since the 3076 is water cooled will the stock water lines fit considering its in the same place?Thanks for the help again A.J.

Daren, it seems like you have your setup pretty much picked out now. I think you will be really impressed with the 3052. Fp must be selling those things like crazy. I read reviews all the time on how much people love em. I think either way you go(52 or 65) plenty of power can be made, and years of reliability should be seen. Hope for the best and cant wait to see some reviews.

Well even though the std 5 bolt would be the lesser efficient of the machined out 4 bolt vs 5 bolt T31 housings, it still will be a much better flowing housing compared to most Mitsu bolt on housings (FP excluded). If you do want to stick to the cast mani T3 setup, I would go with ATP's custom cast 5 bolt turbine housing as seen here in this link:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...OD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-005&Category_Code=GRT

This would be your next best T3 choice with only the true GT housing being abit better (won't have the fitment issues of the 3" outlet GT housing, ie custom O2 housing, DP, etc) & you don't have to worry about any spacers. With that being said I think if you want more of a sleeper look, nice & compact setup & the best possible "mitsu bolt-on" housing FP is defently the route to go (though I don't think the FP housings should be called a Mitsu bolt on as they are custom cast for the GT wheel, unlike the rest & also have the much better performing symetrical volute, which most other Mitsu housings don't offer). FP is also SS cast, say goodbye to rusting & everyone says their crazy light, save like 5 lbs vs the stock turbo.
 
Can guys running the 3052 & 3065 on a 2.0L list their spool times & their supporting mods that effect spool. I'd prefer 3rd gear and boost in the low 20's & if you have times before & after mods that would be great as well.
 
question about 3052...
i believe it has a 9cm^2 exhaust entrance...is there a mani that matches that or you just stick with a 7 cm^s collector and call it a day.

Have you ever actually measured a "6cm" or "7cm" inlet? They're more like 55mm and 60mm. The number you're referring to is the nozzle area and has nothing to do with housing inlet size. That being said, anything bigger than a 14b that's considered a "bolt-on" (16g/20g, PTE, BEP, FP, ...) uses the same size inlet diameter that we refer to as 7cm.
 
Well I'm going to bring this one back. I ended up going with the FP3052, I had seriously thought about the 3065 but I didn't see the point even if I built my motor as the cars still fwd.

Definitiveno, did you get you parts yet to bolt up that GT housing? How did it go/fit, do you have any pics?
 
Well poop. My manifold was good and ready to send when I talked to SLS again and noticed in another thread that he had built a divided T3 manifold to test out one of the new borg warner units. I had recalled that ATP offered a twin scroll T3 housing with .78 A/R and asked Nick what it would cost to upgrade to a split pulse mani, and twin 38's......he told me 300 bucks so I jumped all over it. The Divided T3 also has a 3 inch Vband exit, so again playing the waiting game.
 
Revisiting this thread as am in the full-Garrett GT30/35 market myself.

Was wondering if anyone had managed to utilize the new 3" 4-bolt GT Turbine housing using any of the available aftermarket manifolds (cast/tubular)?

A 3" O2 Housing is TIGHT with the T31/FP30 style housing (requiring you to cheat the bend more than 90*), so with the 2.5" to 3" bell outlet giving you even less space to work with, curious to see how people made it fit :confused:

Guess I could always relocate the alternator for more room :dsm:
 
Revisiting this thread as am in the full-Garrett GT30/35 market myself.

Was wondering if anyone had managed to utilize the new 3" 4-bolt GT Turbine housing using any of the available aftermarket manifolds (cast/tubular)?

A 3" O2 Housing is TIGHT with the T31/FP30 style housing (requiring you to cheat the bend more than 90*), so with the 2.5" to 3" bell outlet giving you even less space to work with, curious to see how people made it fit :confused:

Guess I could always relocate the alternator for more room :dsm:

I have a GT35R hanging off an SFP tubular T3 manifoild. I am piecing together a 3" downpipe right now and will reply back with pics when done. I am relocating the oil filter, and may also have to relocate the alternator if I want to keep a true 90 degree 3" bend. I am using a 4" CLR bend for the turbine discharge which is pretty tight as well.
 
Definitely post up pics. Was wondering why most/all GT30/35Rs I saw had the T31 housings, but with the space constraints, the less efficient housing is a much easier install.

FYI, SFP no longer exists. From what I understand (was told) they changed names to something else (can't remember right now) and no longer make manifolds. So the only ones left are those made a few years ago.

I'm actually going to use the ERL cast-stainless manifold as my starting point which is similar to the SFP but made made of stainless with no welds to crack :)
 
Okay, cool. Ive seen SFP referenced a million times but I have not ever been able to find a website or a vendor who sold their product. Thanks folks.
 
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