Caithness
15+ Year Contributor
- 342
- 1
- Nov 2, 2003
-
Tampa,
Florida
Has anybody ever heard of or used one of these? Sort of like how the GT3561 is a non-ball-bearing GT35R.
I sent an email to precision asking how much it would be to build one with a .63 Mitsubishi bolt-on turbine housing, the 0.60 A/R 4" in 2" out port shroud compressor housing some people here have called a "surge ported e cover", and an internal wastegate. I figure that if a GT35R runs around 1300 bucks and the GT3561 sits at 850, the GT3076R that runs around 1200 bucks would sit around that same 800 dollar level. Just another 100-200 dollars on top of a 50 trim with another 30 horsepower worth of flow and only slightly slower spool.
Oh, and before you ask "why not go with the ball-bearing turbo?" It's not the initial 300-400 dollar price premium that bothers me. It's the fact that I'm going to be socking away 100 bucks a month for a year to pay for this turbo upgrade, and if anything goes wrong I won't be able to afford another full turbo purchase. If I spin a rod bearing or something and metal goes through a standard-bearing turbo, all I'm out is 300 bucks for a quick and easy turbo rebuild and I should be back up and running (well, after the engine rebuild). A friend of mine had to buy a new turbo when his ball-bearing unit was taken out along with his engine.
I sent an email to precision asking how much it would be to build one with a .63 Mitsubishi bolt-on turbine housing, the 0.60 A/R 4" in 2" out port shroud compressor housing some people here have called a "surge ported e cover", and an internal wastegate. I figure that if a GT35R runs around 1300 bucks and the GT3561 sits at 850, the GT3076R that runs around 1200 bucks would sit around that same 800 dollar level. Just another 100-200 dollars on top of a 50 trim with another 30 horsepower worth of flow and only slightly slower spool.
Oh, and before you ask "why not go with the ball-bearing turbo?" It's not the initial 300-400 dollar price premium that bothers me. It's the fact that I'm going to be socking away 100 bucks a month for a year to pay for this turbo upgrade, and if anything goes wrong I won't be able to afford another full turbo purchase. If I spin a rod bearing or something and metal goes through a standard-bearing turbo, all I'm out is 300 bucks for a quick and easy turbo rebuild and I should be back up and running (well, after the engine rebuild). A friend of mine had to buy a new turbo when his ball-bearing unit was taken out along with his engine.

