Switching to Polyurethane mounts?

[DSMOCTANE]

What kind of press do I need to eject the stock rubber mounts that are wedged into the oem mounting brackets? Are they tricky to pop out? Any suggestions or recommendations for removal and reinsertion?

 

[bryanwheat]

What brand of mounts did you get? Some of them will just be an insert that goes in with the stock rubber to firm it up. Some actually replace the whole rubber. For the style that replace the rubber you just need to remove the rubber than you can cut the outer ring that holds the rubber with a hack saw and pry the ring out. From there just tap the urethane part into the mount.

 

[evileagleawd]

For removal i recommend using a air hammer. Always worked real good with a chisel bit. There not to tricky just a little time and effort!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Once in youll like them.

 

[Brandon Mau]

I just installed mine 2 weeks ago the full mounts. Used a chissel and hacksaw. Once you get the inner part out the out side ring just need's a little hacksaw loving as already suggested. You shouldn't need to but if you have a hard time putting the new mounts in lube the mounts up with some oil.

 

[DSMOCTANE]

Thanks for all the help guys! I haven't purchased any yet, but have been searching on ebay for the mean time. Anyone recommend any brand in particular? Or Ebay for the win?!

 

[dalesmitsu]

Op, if you have the funds Harbor Frieght has a great deal on a 12 ton press. Its a must in every garage.

 

[Brandon Mau]

I would go energy suspension. You can get all of them for under $80.

 

[Honto]

I would suggest using a press if you have access to one.

 

[99gst_racer]

Prothane is what I'd recommend. And here's a how-to for installing them (no press needed):
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...install-prothane-mounts-drill-saw-method.html

 

[Calan]

Prothane is what I'd recommend.

I like the Prothanes, but I ended up modifying mine to get performance I wanted out of them. The problem is that on at least my 1G, the inserts fit way too tight, which prevents the mount from working like it should. They actually felt more like solid mounts.

I shaved the sides, and drilled some strategically places holes in the driver side and rear roll stop. I'm using new factory mounts for the tranny and front roll stop, with the hard outer inserts in the roll stop.

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I really like the way these feel now. Nice and firm, but without the car shaking itself apart.

 

[99gst_racer]

^^ Great idea. I like that.

On a similar note; It's weird how much the level of vibration can vary from car to car. On my '99, I have solid aluminum roll stops and prothane on the sides, and it feels like stock rubber mounts. And my '95 had a prothane on the drivers side only, and it vibrated like hell at idle. On Dan's old 1G, his whole dash would vibrate and rattle. I can't explain the variance though.

 

[Calan]

On a similar note; It's weird how much the level of vibration can vary from car to car. On my '99, I have solid aluminum roll stops and prothane on the sides, and it feels like stock rubber mounts. And my '95 had a prothane on the drivers side only, and it vibrated like hell at idle. On Dan's old 1G, his whole dash would vibrate and rattle. I can't explain the variance though.

I've noticed that also. As for the Prothanes, I think there is a lot of variation in them; it seems their quality control isn't as tight as it could be. I had one set that dropped in, and then another that didn't. At first, this set of Prothanes felt more like solid mounts than actual solid mounts I've run in other cars.

When I first installed this set, the driver's side had to be literally pounded into place. That caused all of the vibration from the motor to be transmitted into the vertical mounting plates on the chassis, rather than through the body of the mount and into the the center tube like it should. I shaved about 1/16" off of each side of the driver mount, and about 1/32" off of each side of the rear mount. It's just enough to let the mount fit snugly, but not bind.

The holes don't do a whole lot since the material is pretty dense, but they seem to cut down on the smaller vibrations and removed a bit of my engine's 3k rpm resonance from my arse.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I use the Prothane motor mount inserts. I have never had any problems with them and I would recommend them. Another option is Energy Suspension.

Another option to a hack saw that I used was a dremel with a cutoff wheel. Then a hammer and a chisel. Have fun!

Try checking out our supporting vendors rather then ebay. They help keep this community alive.

• $72 from ExtremePSI: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
• $75 from MAP: Prothane Motor Mount Inserts (DSM) - Modern Automotive Performance
• $83 at STM: STM: PROTHANE MOTOR MOUNT INSERTS | 90-99 DSM | 13-1902 | 13-1901
• $66 from Summit Racing: Prothane Motion Control 13-1901 - Prothane Motor Mounts - Application - SummitRacing.com

(The Prothane part number you want is 13-1901)

 

[kchaazz]

I like the Prothanes, but I ended up modifying mine to get performance I wanted out of them. The problem is that on at least my 1G, the inserts fit way too tight, which prevents the mount from working like it should. They actually felt more like solid mounts.

I shaved the sides, and drilled some strategically places holes in the driver side and rear roll stop. I'm using new factory mounts for the tranny and front roll stop, with the hard outer inserts in the roll stop.

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I really like the way these feel now. Nice and firm, but without the car shaking itself apart.

Dang!! I got a new set of black Prothanes and copied what you did, but I thought you only did that to the driver's side haha. Good thing I havent put them on the car yet

 

[lancedsm]

I use Prothane to l like them a lot. on my motor mounts i used fine blade sawzall and cut the ring on top and bottom and it fell right out.

 

[1457gvr4]

I used to run all four sides and it vibrated like a MOFO, so now I just run front and rear.

 

[DSMOCTANE]

You guys kick so much ass! Thanks for all the great advice and sharing your wisdom of the DSM engine and tranny mounts. I plan on ordering a full set sometime next week! Kudos!!!

 

[1SloEvo]

Keep in mind, when removing the stock "rubber" and metal ring from inside the mount, you don't have to cut all the rubber out. Just enough to fit the hacksaw blade through. Once you cut the inside ring all the way through, it will come out no problem.

 

[Pipnorcali]

im running all 4 and at 750rpm it shakes like a MoFo ive found 1050-1100 idle feels best

 

[99gst_racer]

Keep in mind, when removing the stock "rubber" and metal ring from inside the mount, you don't have to cut all the rubber out. Just enough to fit the hacksaw blade through. Once you cut the inside ring all the way through, it will come out no problem.

While this is true, in my experience, removing the rubber completely allows the ring to come out much easier. I find the entire process to be quicker and easier when removing the rubber first. To each his own though.

 

[nolen117]

Prothanes, for sure. I love them

 

[1SloEvo]

While this is true, in my experience, removing the rubber completely allows the ring to come out much easier. I find the entire process to be quicker and easier when removing the rubber first. To each his own though.

I just did mine on my 1g yesterday afternoon. 3 of them removed in about 30-40 minutes. This is only the 2nd set. Once I got the rubber out and cut the ring all the way through, I just used a hammer and flat tip screwdriver and it popped out in 2-3 light hits. But again, it's just like you mentioned. Each person has their own methods that work better for them and get the same end result!

 

[1MeanTSI]

I had prothanes on my 1st dsm and they rattled my damn teeh out of my head!!

 

[gsxeclipse97]

I'm having some put in my car also along with all the work being done. Does the vibration get better over time if you have vibration to begin with? Do you still have balance shafts still for all those who are being rattled to death?