Street Build Resurrection of the Red 90 Talon

[1cleangsx]

When I was gathering parts for my build such as rods and pistons, the main and rod bearings were the ONLY piece of the puzzle I didn’t supply, as it was the machine shop that would be doing the measuring for clearances, I wouldn’t purchase bearings unless YOU are the one taking measurements and re assembling the bottom end

Matter of fact I also wish I had waited on buying pistons, because it’s possible I could’ve bought standard size Manley’s instead of .20 over, as the standard bore leaves maximum meat between cylinders

 

[red97GS-Tdude]

Looking clean as ever!

 

[DreamChaser7]

When I was gathering parts for my build such as rods and pistons, the main and rod bearings were the ONLY piece of the puzzle I didn’t supply, as it was the machine shop that would be doing the measuring for clearances, I wouldn’t purchase bearings unless YOU are the one taking measurements and re assembling the bottom end

Matter of fact I also wish I had waited on buying pistons, because it’s possible I could’ve bought standard size Manley’s instead of .20 over, as the standard bore leaves maximum meat between cylinders

So I’m still not sure about assembling bottom end myself or having shop do it. I would want both bearings here if I did as Marty said, and would give both to shop for them to decide. I wasn’t planning on buying pistons until block was checked by machine shop for that reason. Hoping I can stay with stock bore size.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

That is correct. I HAVE ON HAND both sets (mains and rods) so whichever one gives me the clearances I want are the ones I will use. Looking back at other build sheets, most of them have the plain H series. As I see it and the way I do it is measure with regular bearings and if it is too tight check with a X bearing, if I am still not happy I break out the emery cloth roll and work on my journals for the clearance I prefer. Believe me, the bearings will wear and get looser. The old mechanic I worked for WAY back when I was a kid would actuallly "sand" the bearings for the clearances he wanted. I just looked at our "THOR" build and that motor had .0015 mains and rods. It was a stiff motor to turn over after assembled but now turns over soooo much easier after the breakin and some miles on it. I will bet that motor will last a good 50-100k miles with no issues and great oil pressure. My Blue 92 auto car is running a used stock crank and it has .002 mains .003 rods because that is what it was and didn't exceed .003".
So, you see, I work my journals more often than using X bearings but if it needs them, I have them. I don't want to emery a new crank but if it is in between what I need I will.
We will all find out pretty soon which ones the crank likes.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

New freeze plugs and paint on the block today. I was without electricity from 8 til 12:30 this afternoon so it hampered a bit of work. It didn't effect paint tho!
If I don't like the look, it will get over coated with a layer of Black.
I'll let it sit overnight and see how it turned out tomorrow.
Marty

 

[enriquez2000]

New freeze plugs and paint on the block today. I was without electricity from 8 til 12:30 this afternoon so it hampered a bit of work. It didn't effect paint tho!
If I don't like the look, it will get over coated with a layer of Black.
I'll let it sit overnight and see how it turned out tomorrow.
Marty

I was torn between sealed cast and black... ultimately black won for me

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well clear would have made the block not look pasty and I considered it. I still may put a color changing topcoat on as something different. It's just paint. Black covers a multitude of sins if it looks all fkd up, . I have time while the parts are getting balanced.
The static balance isn't as close as I like it. It has a 4gm spread so the shop can take care of that for me, I dont HAVE to do EVERYTHING. That's why I'm going to pay them $200.

 

[enriquez2000]

Well clear would have made the block not look pasty and I considered it. I still may put a color changing topcoat on as something different. It's just paint. Black covers a multitude of sins if it looks all fkd up, . I have time while the parts are getting balanced.
The static balance isn't as close as I like it. It has a 4gm spread so the shop can take care of that for me, I dont HAVE to do EVERYTHING. That's why I'm going to pay them $200.

I liked ot with just clear but ultimately black wins!

Yours looks good... my VC is black with metal red over it for now

 

[MindBlowin03]

OEM stainless freeze plugs? You use anything during install or just dry?

I used OEM plugs for the first time on my last build and one just blew out on me.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Nope those are Dorman 555-093-1 standard expansion plugs from Autozone, where my son works.
I install them with Permatex #2 Slow Drying-Non Hardening gasket sealer.
I had one start leaking on the backside of the block once (it was a Built4g63 build with brass expansion plugs) and I always use steel plugs, which sealed fine with sealer. It was a real PITA to get to so I go with tried and true for all the motors I have ever built, just a plain steel plug.
After sitting over night, I think I will leave the block color as is. It looks black but if you get it light or the sun, it has a maroon cast to it. I spent a good 2 hrs cleaning up a few small parts like the oil pump pickup, rear main seal housing and the water pipe. That's enough work for a Sunday, a day of rest!
A little at a time !
Marty

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Little by little....
Tonight was just a lesson in how I make sure my oil squirter's are clean and clear to flow oil. I won't do much more than clean them with a scuff pad or a little sandpaper and some BPC. I run telephone wire thru the squuirter jet to clear it with the wire and some cleaner or make sure they are clear inside. On this set, all 4 were clear inside like the picture but I have had some clogged jets that needed fluid and some poking with a soft but stiff wire. Sometimes I use a single strand of 10 or 8 guage wire as it is soft and won't hurt the jet. The valves will get cleaned with BPC also and checked and all installed with new aluminum crush washers then checked for clearance with the new rotating assembly. Just the stuff I think is important on ALL builds.
Marty

 

[CrackedDSM]

Love engine builds, man. Need to build one for mine soon.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well today's "Little Bit" was cleaning the oil squirters and check valves. It all went well and they cleaned up nice. I will say I used a bench wire wheel that was wore out to CAREFULLY get the varnish off of the tubes and outsides of the valves then clean them out with Brake Parts Cleaner and air. They look and flow (well....blow, ...by mouth) just fine and should be good to install once the rotating assembly is back from the balancing shop. I can put them in now but I don't want to crinkle a squirter tube because of interference with a piston skirt or rod cap....whatever MIGHT be anywhere close.
Here are a few pictures.
Updates on the Blue Auto car also
See that profile if you are curious.... but it did get me to the car show tonight so I was the only non-domestic powered vehicle there until FINALLY a friend with a Honda showed up.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Today's "little bit".....
It was 6:30am and my dam body has gotten up at 5 for 30 years so for some stupid reason, I couldn't sleep, so I got up, had a cup of coffee and watched a bit of weather then went to the garage and did some of the "fun" stuff.
It is Brake Caliper paint and works very well on the hot surface of the tube so I painted this one for the fresh motor. The stuff dries rather quickly so you can do a second coat about the time you have finished with the first coat. I prefer the brush on as opposed to a spray can because it is thicker and flows out super smooth while drying.
You can also see how I removed the turbo coolant line without screwing up the flair nut or the tube, I just used my VICE
I am using a Dorman #090-054 oil drain plug (M16 x 1.5) and will be using an aluminum M18 Crush Washer (I know I have a brass one in the picture but feel it would take too much torque to seal compared to an aluminum one) to seal the turbo feed fitting (thanks @19Eclipse90 for the tip!!!). I had to grind down the Oil Drain plug to about 1/4" of length of threads so it didn't bottom out on the flair and it fits great. Just hoping it seals cause what a bi*** to get to in the car! I'll probably make a tech thread for the water tube plug if it seals. I will be using teflon tape on the threads also or glycol resistant RTV, I'm not sure yet.
I might do more today if it is raining (God that'd be a BLESSING, I mowed my POND yesterday....).

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well I got the head studs in for the fresh motor (L19's) and got the water tube looking nice (baked in the 110* sun all day too).
Waiting on the balancing shop to call. I could install the oil squirters but prefer to do that at the time of assembly.
I also went out and dug around in the DSM parts and came up with 2 good 2g heads, fresh and ready to go but I will check the decking to make sure they are truly flat to hold 40lbs of boost.
I also found 3 2g heads needing freshened up and 1 1g head needing the same.
I was going to run SuperTech valves but hey, if these are good, I'm good. Save me $ for the cans and springs!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I took the day off today and got the BSE shaft installed into the oil pump. Now I need to find my balance shaft plug. Inventory says box #1, it's a BIG box. I also got the oil pump pickup tube modded for the Kiggly girdle and cleaned up, ready for install.
I got a new "sign" for the shop this weekend also.
Pops

 

[92Turbski]

I took the day off today and got the BSE shaft installed into the oil pump. Now I need to find my balance shaft plug. Inventory says box #1, it's a BIG box. I also got the oil pump pickup tube modded for the Kiggly girdle and cleaned up, ready for install.
I got a new "sign" for the shop this weekend also.
Pops

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Marty! I'll be curious to see if you end up having the same fitment problem with your ACL pump as I did. The lower right bolt on the back of the pump housing hit the block and needed clearance, both on the bolt shoulder and the block. It literally rocked back and forth and wouldn't seat.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well let's take a look Rob! I have used ACL pumps for about 10 years on these but I DO KNOW which bolt you are speaking about. It has to be seated very well and the bolt itself seems like it could be 5mm shorter and work just as well.
Let me "mock it up".

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

@92Turbski - No "rock" here Rob. Feels solid without a gasket. Good point to bring up as a "check" though!
Thank you for bringing it up!

 

[92Turbski]

@92Turbski - No "rock" here Rob. Feels solid without a gasket. Good point to bring up as a "check" though!
Thank you for bringing it up!

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I made a video, just hadn't made the time to post it. Check it out, let me know what you think. I've made clearance and she's already on and in the car, though. Lol


Fix here;

 

[92Turbski]

Here's the video showing the bad fitment.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well....I dont like the way the PO cranked down on a composite head gasket. It left marks in a super smooth surface....not good for my MLS so let's try head #2. If that doesn't make the grade, I'll have one of the core heads decked and new valves, springs and guides done. Get it right to begin with! The head I brought up to the garage looks like it has beehive Evo springs and new Blue stem seals but the exhaust ports look "wet".

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Parts back from the balancing shop. It's nice to see work done on the crank and more numbers to add to the build sheet
He said that all of it was pretty close out of the box and mostly it was just crank work. In any case, I feel better when she's going to be turning 9k.
Pictures......

 

[We're on Boost]

Marty on the new crank, looks like the shop did some grinding on it. Was that for balance? Did they do anything else to it?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

No, just removing some weight from both ends of the crank for balance. He took the tag off of the snout that stated it needed to be balanced before installation so I wrote the shop name and date on it and put it back into the crank box. No new lightening holes and no work on the rods or pistons that I can find. The shop also dyno's motors but are geared to domestic, carbureted motors mostly for that. He is looking for some help that can read a dam micrometer. If I were retired (2 years), I would consider working part time for him.