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20150721_135455_resized_1 Talon in the Park.jpg

Street Build Resurrection of the Red 90 Talon

1990 Eagle Talon TSI trying to save her life from the previous owner and its alot of work but a nice base car. My youngest son, who also races this car has nicknamed her "The Red Baron".

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I can't do it. I'm too OCD. I have the unusual position in that every one of my dsms has been so original all I have ever had is OEM hardware. Not a single hardware store bolt on the cars anywhere.
Marty and I talked about this!

The purists wont like it but they work.
 
Marty and I talked about this!

The purists wont like it but they work.
Oh yeah they work. I'm just spoiled. I've had 3 main dsms all of them under 50k when I took possession. A few others I had briefly may have had some odd hardware but not the ones I owned the longest.
 
these are all grade 8 bolts.
Marty, the nice shiny new flange head bolts I see in your pics, they all say 10.9 which means they are class 10.9 material.
That's more or less equivalent to grade 8 for strength.
But might as well call them class 10.9 because that's what they are, and when people shop for them they should know the terminology.
Strength is Class when it's metric, Grade when it's inch.
Anyway, Class 10.9 is strong. They are a higher strength class than the OEM bolts that say "7" or "4" on the head, as far as I know.
The zinc plating on yours looks like it's good quality plating.
Black oxide plating is usually not as good - gets rusty too easy. So it's the shiny zinc plate for me on anything that's not actually stainless. I grew up in the rust belt. I'm sick of rust.
The ARP bolts that are made from a high strength stainless, those can have whatever plating they put on them and it should be fine, they are still going to be pretty darn corrosion resistant.
 
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The lumber yard, where I get my metric stuff had it labeled as Grade 8 so that was what I wanted. 10.9, even better I guess, :) Thanks for the clarification!
We have even used gun blue on shiney stuff when it is in places that you don't want to see that, like door sweeps and such that my son is going thru on his Camaro currently.
BTW, A1 seals SUCK. I just had to add that. Well, their T Top seals anyway. That car will leak more water now than before he had new seals. Hate to report on that but they still haven't gotten back with him on his warranty.

Edit: A1 just sent a return label for his T Top seals for a refund. I think he is going with Soft Seal (my preference) as a replacement set of seals.
 
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Final Spec Sheet. I need to measure endplay and mount the oil pickup tube and dimple the pan for the ARP studs/Kiggly girdle and the shortblock is finished and ready to go to the Big Shop, awaiting a fresh head/cams combo!
Progress!

MW5 Build Sheet 7-7-23 Final .png
 
I can take the "flames", it doesn't bother me. But to tell me, you have to "catch" me!!! ROFL
 
I buy every 10mm i can find at the pawn shop so I have a surplus
Geez what? 😆
Brand new perfect ones cost like about 30 cents each. Class 10.9 zinc plated. No minimum order .
You are talking about 6mm JIS flange head bolts with 10mm wrench flats right?
Here, buy a complete selection of these, 10 each or whatever:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_fl...Zinc_plated_class_10.9_steel_6mm_x_1.0mm.aspx

And buy a selection of these:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_fl...Zinc_plated_class_10.9_steel_6mm_x_1.0mm.aspx

And now you're set pretty good for 6mm bolts!

DSC01194 bolts nuts and washers.JPG
 
Pretty sure he is talking about 13mm SOCKETS, ROFL, but good info still!
Per the FSM, sealant has been applied and the pan sit into place. I rotated the engine afterwards just to make sure there still weren't any funny sounds and it spins over real nice. WELL....it did have a funny sound, but that was the plastic under the motor being sucked up into the cylinders, or at least trying, so that's a good sign! I'll be torquing the pan bolts in about 30 minutes, after the silicone has cured its required time of 1 hour at hand tight with it squeezing out now. :thumb:
Endplay came out at .002" but if I pryed hard, it showed .003", so I am OK with that clearance also and was the last spot to fill in on the spec sheet. She will go to the shop tomorrow, awaiting her fresh head!
More PROGRESS!
The last picture shows any newbies where the 2 SHORT oil pan bolts go.

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Geez what? 😆
Brand new perfect ones cost like about 30 cents each. Class 10.9 zinc plated. No minimum order .
You are talking about 6mm JIS flange head bolts with 10mm wrench flats right?
Here, buy a complete selection of these, 10 each or whatever:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_fl...Zinc_plated_class_10.9_steel_6mm_x_1.0mm.aspx

And buy a selection of these:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_fl...Zinc_plated_class_10.9_steel_6mm_x_1.0mm.aspx

And now you're set pretty good for 6mm bolts!

View attachment 713246
Sockets LOL!
 
Final Spec Sheet for the new short block. Manley I Beams, Manley Extreme Duty 10:1 Pistons with 22mm pins, Eagle Crank built for E85.
Now on to the head components and $$$.
MW5 Build Sheet 7-7-23 Final Quick Scan.jpg
 

Attachments

Thanks guys, this is the "fun" part for me! ;)
Also the one that has eaten up the most $'s. :oops:
I'm holding off for any "Black Friday" sales to buy the head parts (cams, springs, valves etc....) which all come to over $1500 currently plus Machine work.
 
My modified @MorrisonFab turbo drain MODDED to fit the PAN. I had to enlarge the mounting holes on an already beautiful part, and attached it to the pan, in an upward angle. I LOVE IT ❤️!
A big thanks to the Morrisons, for their super quality part....I ruined 2 drill bits modding stainless steel.....;)
Pictures, because everyone wants to see.
I used factory Mitsu parts to assemble the drain, so I provided those part numbers on the bags.

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Hold up....what is that? Is that a custom piece of a modified stock pipe with a rolled bead?
Nah Paul it is Morrisons Holset turbo drain flange mounted to the pan that I hogged out to 3/4" to match their fitting. My factory drain bolts had a shank on them that didn't want to go thru the 2 mounting holes on their fitting so I hogged them out too. The flange is one of the first angled ones so it could have been a mock up part. I've had it since they started making the custom drains. We used to cut a 2g tube and use hose where the flex section was at but now just use good Ole American Handmade products for that.
 
Receipts and totals....so far.

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And I am a BACHELOR :cool::D;)
 
Since it snowed last night I wanted to only work inside (but had to go have a tire replaced on my daily, that suked) so I was polishing out some rough spots in the combustion chambers, just dicking around really and was thinking, I wonder if I could drill out my own 12mm head stud holes. I grabbed my set of bits and the largest it had was a 1/2 (close to 12mm but a little big). I decided I had better just let the shop do the work but grabbed a box of 6 bolt ARP head studs and low and behold, this head has already had that mod done! Yay. I got the teardrop mod done too. Just waiting on parts to get here then I will stop and talk to the machine shop about what I can do and what they need to do. I really don't know which part out I got this head from but look at those cool ass snake tongue sparkplugs! Also, some PO had taken 1 intake and 1 exhaust spring off and the intake is not a stock 6t valve but still seals fine. All of the head parts will be saved and replaced with my special goodies. Another Yay! Thanks for following along. Glad to be back on 4g63 stuff!
Marty

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Well the shortblock has officially moved to the "assembly room". Still climate controlled and is usually where I work in the cold months.
More parts showed up too! YAY!!! :cool: :thumb:
Kiggly regulator and HP Springs/retainers/seats along with the Kelford cams and Morrison angled drain (to replace the one I had in stock). Waiting on a few more things, you'll know when they come in!
Marty

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