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Street Build Resurrection of the Red 90 Talon

1990 Eagle Talon TSI trying to save her life from the previous owner and its alot of work but a nice base car. My youngest son, who also races this car has nicknamed her "The Red Baron".

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I use Permatex Grey but wipe it clean on the outside for a "clean" look. I made a video on how I install them (and I did one on cam seals too) earlier this year HERE.
Thanks for following along!
Marty
 
Lots of little cleaning and mocking up today as the weather outside wasn't very nice. The head is ready for a trip to the machine shop for all new components.
 

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Tonight I stripped the head down to bare bones and bagged and tagged all of the stock components for emergencies, since they were all good. The head is now ready to go see the machinist for a surface and a valve job with the new race components.
Supertech valves, Manley 6* Locks, Kiggly HP Beehives and Oil Regulator, Supertech Blue Valve Seals, Kelford 280R's and Fidanza Gears with Titanium Exhaust studs. It's gonna LOOK beautiful, let's hope it performs that way! 🙏
I lucked out and found that the head stud holes had already been sized for 6 bolt studs on this 2g head so I saved a little money and work there!
Thanks for tagging along!!! ❤️

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Setback Saturday.
After tearing down my donor head that came from a random partout, I have discovered that the cam caps don't match the head. Most do but the front caps are most definitely not from this head and that sucks.
I will go back to the shop and see if I have any other 2g heads that can be used.
DSM's, it's always SOMETHING. Hit me up if you have a bare 7 bolt head WITH MATCHING CAM CAPS.
Thanks for following along, I wish I had GOOD news, but that is DSM life.
More to come as soon as I find another head. At least I saved all of the components and didn't sell the head to someone and then have them have problems.
 

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Setback Saturday.
After tearing down my donor head that came from a random partout, I have discovered that the cam caps don't match the head. Most do but the front caps are most definitely not from this head and that sucks.
I will go back to the shop and see if I have any other 2g heads that can be used.
DSM's, it's always SOMETHING. Hit me up if you have a bare 7 bolt head WITH MATCHING CAM CAPS.
Thanks for following along, I wish I had GOOD news, but that is DSM life.
More to come as soon as I find another head. At least I saved all of the components and didn't sell the head to someone and then have them have problems.
If you dont find a complete matching head the machine shop may be able to fix that
 
Well the good news is exactly that, I caught it now AND the good members on here have already contacted me to help save me! God what a GREAT bunch of gear heads. I love you guys! You don't find that kind of friendship most places. :)
 
HUGE thanks to all, I picked up another donor head from @DSMSeifer ,who is local to me (45 minutes), and will do all the little stuff again. Glad I have a following of friends in this situation and again, thank you all. Pictures of the donor, it has bent valves but if the guides are still good then I am just set back a few hours of labor.
Marty

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I tore down the 2nd donor head that I got yesterday (thanks again @DSMSeifer ). It had been on a motor for about 100 miles then that motor had an oil pump problem, kicked the timing belt off and bent all of the valves. After the tear down, I think it has one cracked valve guide but I'll look it over better today. The rest looks really good and just needs a good WASH. It may not even need a surface but might get one just to be sure and no more setbacks (crossing fingers.....it is a DSM after all). 🤞 :hellyeah:
Marty

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Well..... I got all of the exhaust studs removed from the latest head (I have titanium hardware for that) and cleaned on it for a bit to see how good the surface was, and it might not need a resurface. I will let the machine shop check it. If in doubt, I will have it surfaced. The 5th picture in my post above shows a crack in a spring perch area but the guide isn't cracked and neither are any of the others, but if anyone has any comments about that, PLEASE chime in. It does look like cylinder number 1 never fired, as it had no carbon deposits on the head and the plug was darker than the others like it had fuel on it but never burned it. Just little things you catch when you are cleaning. I also got the head stud holes all drilled out to 12mm to accomodate the 6 bolt ARP L-19's. I doubt I get the head to the shop this week, as it is a busy one, but probably next week I can drop it off so he can grind the seats and check my new valves for sealing and also give it the surface that it needs for an MLS gasket. I have asked for a 50RA or better and always got it so far. He is a good machinist, sometimes overly busy, but good at what he does.
Crossing fingers all works out well!
Marty

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I just tested a Supertech set of intake and exhaust valves with regular 30wt oil on the stems in this extra head, and they feel great. Doesn't mean it doesn't need fine attention to each and every one, but this detail is a good sign. :thumb:
I still have fingers crossed and trying to check EVERYTHING! 🤞

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Nice spot but that was the one that has the mismatched cam caps. I took alot of time to get it all up to snuff and ready for the machine shop and never once checked out the cam caps. It was a easy spot since it was the front ones that gave it away. I do think I have ONE MORE core somewhere that is a 2g (which is what I run on this car), the other 2 or 3 are 1g heads. Thanks for the eyes in the background.....how about that 7 bolt knife edge Manley crank? It looks great but has the thrust surface wore out on it. Dam....:banghead:
 
No Jeremy/Sean, I will get a good look when I pull it and put the new one in. Instead of pulling it out, tearing it apart and then waiting to fix whatever happened then finally get the motor back in, I just built another one. I should have had a spare already built. I have a stock 100,000 mile motor that is good, a new rebuilt 6 bolt with a set of FP2 cams/BC Springs & Retainers in it that is good, but no "Rowdy" motors on a stand, ready to go in. I will have after I find out what went wrong (and FIX it), and then we will all know. I am curious myself, but need to finish up this new engine so it could maybe be swapped on a weekend or a week in the shop, whatever works best for me.
I did a little more to the short block last night, hunting for the "correct" bolts so @pauleyman doesn't holler at me ROFL. That is when I found the head sheild with all of the bolts/studs in it.I took it to the wire wheel and cleaned it up and then mounted up the front motor mount and the pulleys. If I put the side mount on, the studs on it want to poke holes in my engine bag cover, so I didn't mount it yet. I then went to the "new" head and did a bit of teardrop modding and cleaned up some slag in that area and called it a good evening!
Progress, even if it is small though :thumb:
Pictures:

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She should be Plenty "spicy" Jeremy. I haven't ever ran a set of cams with more than 11mm of lift, but the new head is getting Kelford 280R's. She should Rev. :thumb::talon:
 
Mockup Saturday:

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Well here is a tip for those that are following. This engine, just like the one in the car now, is a 6 bolt/2g head setup. I have had 3 2g heads fit right onto a 6 bolt block with headstuds but 2 that didn't. I found that the only thing holding up the other 2g heads was casting slag. I ran a 15/32" drill bit (11.9mm) thru the few holes that a stud wouldn't fit thru and now all of the studs fit the holes good. I haven't tested the head with studs in the block yet, but the head holes are now definitely large enough to let 12mm studs slide thru.
Just what I have found so I wanted to pass it on and I was able to do it at home with household tools.
Marty
Here are a few pic's.

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Well I stripped the head down so I didn't have to pay the machine shop or wait on them to get to it. All I need from them is a 50RA or better surface and a bath. Tagged and bagged every part, readying it for reassembly when it gets back. :thumb:

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Well I stripped the head down so I didn't have to pay the machine shop or wait on them to get to it. All I need from them is a 50RA or better surface and a bath. Tagged and bagged every part, readying it for reassembly when it gets back. :thumb:

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Ever consider going +1mm on the valves? Curious as to thoughts on this. ( Pros and cons). One of the few parts I still need for the head.
 
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