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[RESOLVED] Can't manualy turn engine past certain point

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Another way to check if you have any bent valves is to take your valve cover off and try to wiggle all the rocker arms. If any of them have any play then you would have a bent valve. The reason they would wiggle is cause the valves not seating all the way allowing the rocker arms to be loose.
 
Another way to check if you have any bent valves is to take your valve cover off and try to wiggle all the rocker arms. If any of them have any play then you would have a bent valve. The reason they would wiggle is cause the valves not seating all the way allowing the rocker arms to be loose.


Good idea, I give it a try. Thanks!
 
Another way to check if you have any bent valves is to take your valve cover off and try to wiggle all the rocker arms. If any of them have any play then you would have a bent valve. The reason they would wiggle is cause the valves not seating all the way allowing the rocker arms to be loose.

Tried to wiggle the rocker arms and 2 on the intake and 2 on the exhaust side move alittle, but seems like the only reason the move is because the cam lobes aren't pushing on them. Is this correct or are the valves bent?
 
Tried to wiggle the rocker arms and 2 on the intake and 2 on the exhaust side move alittle, but seems like the only reason the move is because the cam lobes aren't pushing on them.

When the lash adjusters aren't pumped up and the roller rocker is on the base circle of the cam rather than on the ramp or lobe they can be loose and be perfectly normal.
 
That belt is way loose. Re-tension that belt. When you pull the pin out of the hydraulic tensioner (auto adjuster) you should be able to put the pin back in after 10 minutes. Are you able to do this?
 
Which is why you have to tension the belt correctly before you pull the pin. Have you read the timing belt VFAQ? http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

Ok, I must of missed understood what he was asking; I was thinking he meant that the auto tension while off the vehicle stays compressed when the pin is pulled. The loose belt isn't the issue, I took the picture just to show the timing marks.

Now after reading that vfaq link you posted, it says that I may have to rotate the engine up to 6 times before the cams gears will line up. Could it be I might have to do a few complete rotation in order for the cams gears to be in sync with the pistons?
 
Now after reading that vfaq link you posted, it says that I may have to rotate the engine up to 6 times before the cams gears will line up. Could it be I might have to do a few complete rotation in order for the cams gears to be in sync with the pistons?

No, if the belt is installed correctly the cams, crank, oil pump and balance shafts are always in sync but it can take up to six turns of the crank before all the timing marks line up due to the different rates the sprockets turn at. Once lined up it will take another six turns before they all line up again.
 
No, if the belt is installed correctly the cams, crank, oil pump and balance shafts are always in sync but it can take up to six turns of the crank before all the timing marks line up due to the different rates the sprockets turn at. Once lined up it will take another six turns before they all line up again.

Shoot, I was hoping that might of been the solution.
 
Man of Saturn,

When you install your timing belt, you FIRST tension the belt either with the "proper" tensioning tool, or by prying on the tensioner pulley (the one that looks like a smiley face. Then you tighten the tensioner pulley and this sets the tension on the belt. After that, you pull the pin out of the auto adjuster/hydraulic tensioner. At this point you should be able to just stick the pin right back in the auto tensioner because it should not expand at all.

The auto tensioner is there to expand gradually over time as the belt stretches. Are you able to put your pin back in, after your done with your T-belt job? If not, then the tension on the belt is not correct.
 
Man of Saturn,

When you install your timing belt, you FIRST tension the belt either with the "proper" tensioning tool, or by prying on the tensioner pulley (the one that looks like a smiley face. Then you tighten the tensioner pulley and this sets the tension on the belt. After that, you pull the pin out of the auto adjuster/hydraulic tensioner. At this point you should be able to just stick the pin right back in the auto tensioner because it should not expand at all.

The auto tensioner is there to expand gradually over time as the belt stretches. Are you able to put your pin back in, after your done with your T-belt job? If not, then the tension on the belt is not correct.


I'll give it a try, think I might have been doing it backwards. Would that prevent the cams from moving?
 
I'll give it a try, think I might have been doing it backwards. Would that prevent the cams from moving?

I'm slightly confused with what your saying. I usually start off by holding the cam gears in place with 2 17mm wrenches and then put the belt on the cams.

Next, run it on the oil pump sprocket and then crank sprocket. Last, wrap it on the BS sprocket and then tension it. Then pull the pin on the Auto tensioner. You have to make sure the belt is tight.

The reason your having problems is that your either a few teeth off or your belt is too loose, allowing the Crank to turn a little before the cams do when you rotate the engine. This will cause the timing to come off sync and you'll hit the pistons on the valves. Good luck

P.S. Whats with all the permanent marker on your crank trigger plate?
 
Those pics you snapped look the same way that my t-belt looked when I had the timing off a couple teeth. I didnt try to turn mine over at all because the t-belt looked like it had too much slack, so I re-did the belt, and re-checked timing marks (cams were off) so when I re-timed it the belt was nice, and tight, and my motor spins freely. You might want to double check your timing.
 
your belt is too loose, allowing the Crank to turn a little before the cams do when you rotate the engine. This will cause the timing to come off sync and you'll hit the pistons on the valves.

That sounds like your answer there ^^^ ...if you're trying to turn the crank with that much slack in the belt, the cam gears wont turn till all the slack is taken up....thus having the affect of being off a tooth or 2 on your timing...I hope you didnt try to crank it TOO hard.
 
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