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Resolved Engine rebuild question?

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lilthiago95GS

Probationary Member
26
1
Jul 7, 2003
westbury, New York
Hi guys, A friend of mine gave me a 4g63t all apart and now I have to put it back together. The problem that I am going thru is that he did not mark anything, and got new rings and the rod bearings (the metal plates that goes between the rod and crankshaft) and I don't know how and where the rod caps goes.

Is it a big deal to just install them anywhere?

And another question is, The arrows on top of the piston is suppose to be pointing towards the timing belt or the tranny?

Please any info will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 
The rod caps are matched to the rods. You have to match the rods to the caps. . .

But you can't because they all look the same. So IOW, you have to have them line honed if you change them around or don't know which one went to which. . . You cannot line home with home tools. You need a machine shop. . .

Thank your friend with a smack in forehead with one of those rods you need to have honed.

You're going to rebuild the motor without understanding how things go together, so research ALOT. You need to know how to gap rings, check bore specs, bearing clearances, thrust clearances / crank slop, piston to wall clearance, cylinder wall shape (to determine if you should bore or even hone), magnaflux crank for cracks (it was tore down for a reason), journal condition (roundness and consistancy: no barreling, etc.). Clean all the old grit from being blown up out of the block (it was pulled apart for a reason). I can't get it all clean without hottanking, And that's not something you have in your home tool collection. If the topend is apart: Valve lapping, cam cap matching (same as rod cap matching). And you'll probably need new headbolts since 7bolt head bolts arn't friendly to reuse. . .
 
What he's trying to say is that you can't mix and match. Each rod cap has been "ground" down to their own specific tolerances and measurements. Really, you should machine that block and crankshaft before assembly.
 
What he's trying to say is that you can't mix and match. Each rod cap has been "grinded" down to their own specific tolerances and measurements. Really, you should machine that block and crankshaft before assembly.

How much do you guys think I should pay for the machine shop to machine the block and the cranckshaft and install my rods with the right caps?

I just want to be prepared when they give me a quote, and for me to know if they are charging me a fair price.

I really appreciate all the help:thumb:
 
The price varies from shop to shop. And the prices also vary by area. The machine work has preset pricing, as in boring a block is charged per cylinder. Call the shops and compare the prices. Also - find a DSM'er from your area, someone knowledgeable. He (or she, you never know) may be able to help.
 
I know they charge different prices, but I really would like to know how much I should be prepared to pay

Is it that hard to call? Tell them you have a 4g63 block and you need it machined. They will go through all of the options and explain what each process does. Just ask if you don't understand something, they do it for a living. And in this economy, they would be dumb to scare away a customer!
 
Hi guys, A friend of mine gave me a 4g63t all apart and now I have to put it back together. The problem that I am going thru is that he did no mark anything, and now got new rings and the rod bearings ( the metal plates that goes between the rod and crankshaft) and now I don't know how and where the rod caps goes. Is it a big deal to just install them anywhere? And another question is, The arrows on top of the piston is suppose to be pointing towards the timing belt or the tranny.


Please any info will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

What if I just go and get new rods and pistons. Would i still have to send to a machine shop to match rods and pistons to the block?
 
What if I just go and get new rods and pistons. Would i still have to send to a machine shop to match rods and pistons to the block?
Just remember, tolerances are there for a reason, and usually they are NOT forgiving at all.. better to be safe now than spin a rod bearing later.. it’s ugly
 
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