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small engine rebuild question

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talon187

20+ Year Contributor
1,043
0
Feb 11, 2003
torrington, Connecticut
ok heres what happened my timing belt tensior went and i noticed my head gasket leaking so i fiugred id take care of it all at the same time i got the head off and noticed the pistions met values with a diffrent head that was on the car my rings are kinda a shot and it looks like one of my pistions might be egg shaped so i figured this is what i was going to do

arp head studs
blance shfts removeal
metal head gasket comtic mls
timing belt
tensior
water pump
now rod bearings
new pistions and rings standard bore
deck the block

now will i be able to get 400whp without a problem ? and also have it reliable as a daily driver?

and with puting in new pistions and new rod bearings will have to worry about touching my thrust bearings when i pull the crank off and the meachine shop can just press out the old bearings and put new ones in right? do i have to have anything balanced?

and are good rod bearings?
 
talon187 said:
ok heres what happened my timing belt tensior went and i noticed my head gasket leaking so i fiugred id take care of it all at the same time i got the head off and noticed the pistions met values with a diffrent head that was on the car my rings are kinda a shot and it looks like one of my pistions might be egg shaped so i figured this is what i was going to do

arp head studs
blance shfts removeal
metal head gasket comtic mls
timing belt
tensior
water pump
now rod bearings
new pistions and rings standard bore
deck the block

now will i be able to get 400whp without a problem ? and also have it reliable as a daily driver?

and with puting in new pistions and new rod bearings will have to worry about touching my thrust bearings when i pull the crank off and the meachine shop can just press out the old bearings and put new ones in right? do i have to have anything balanced?

and are good rod bearings?

arp head studs = TOTALLY UNNECCESSARY ON 1G & TOTAL PITA

blance shfts removeal = MANDATORY EVERY DSM

metal head gasket comtic mls = TOTAL P.O.S., 1000 THREADS ON THAT

timing belt = I'LL GO KEVLAR NEXT TIME I DO MINE

tensior = PULLEYS, ETC...

water pump - CRAZY NOT TO

now rod bearings = CRAZY NOT TO BEING YOU PROBABLY NEED NEW PISTONS ANYWAY...

new pistions and rings standard bore = STOCK 1G IS WHAT I WOULD DO.

deck the block = BLOCK WON'T NEED IT - BUT THE HEAD?

now will i be able to get 400whp without a problem ? NAH - BUT IT'LL SCARE YOU...

and also have it reliable as a daily driver? REPLACING EVERY HOSE, EVERY SEAL, EVERY O RING - MAYBE FOR A WHILE TILL CLUTCH, TURBO & ECU CRAP OUT...

will have to worry about touching my thrust bearings when i pull the crank off and the meachine shop can just press out the old bearings and put new ones in right? do i have to have anything balanced? IF MAINS & THRUSTS ARE GOOD LEAVE THEM ALONE - IF NOT, DO IT RIGHT.

LUV, UNCLE BUCK
 
well as for my clutch its an act 2100 ecu had the caps replaced and is fine turbo going to upgrade that the head studs on my 1g have ben reused once already so i got the arp the head gasket i did some research and it seemed if the head and block were decked and everything it would hold up just fine.... ive already resurfaced the head and ive only run stock boost on the car since ive had it
 
I would recommend the Mitsu HG over the Cometic, if you have the couple extra bucks and are replacing the pistons anyway, I'd go wth 2G or Evo. As long as your there think hard about cams and lifters.
 
BUCK said:
arp head studs = TOTALLY UNNECCESSARY ON 1G & TOTAL PITA

blance shfts removeal = MANDATORY EVERY DSM

metal head gasket comtic mls = TOTAL P.O.S., 1000 THREADS ON THAT

timing belt = I'LL GO KEVLAR NEXT TIME I DO MINE

tensior = PULLEYS, ETC...

water pump - CRAZY NOT TO

now rod bearings = CRAZY NOT TO BEING YOU PROBABLY NEED NEW PISTONS ANYWAY...

new pistions and rings standard bore = STOCK 1G IS WHAT I WOULD DO.

deck the block = BLOCK WON'T NEED IT - BUT THE HEAD?

now will i be able to get 400whp without a problem ? NAH - BUT IT'LL SCARE YOU...

and also have it reliable as a daily driver? REPLACING EVERY HOSE, EVERY O RING - MAYBE FOR A WHILE TILL CLUTCH, TURBO & ECU CRAP OUT...

will have to worry about touching my thrust bearings when i pull the crank off and the meachine shop can just press out the old bearings and put new ones in right? do i have to have anything balanced? IF MAINS & THRUSTS ARE GOOD LEAVE THEM ALONE - IF NOT, DO IT RIGHT.

LUV, UNCLE BUCK

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1542275#post1542275

Please, do me a favor and enlighten me on a few things.

1. ARP head studs, why are they are a PITA?
True, not 100% needed, but the stock bolts are stretch bolts and generally are not meant to be reused so you have 2 options. One being but new one time use head bolts from the stealership or buy ARP head studs for a little more. ARP studs a great item to put in if its already down for a build, and they give you a bit more peice of mind and your more flexible later on down the road when you DO need them IMO. I've never (nor has anyone else I know) had a problem installing the studs or the head w/ the ARP studs. Simple process that always works, install the studs in the block and then place the washer in the head w/ a small dab of the lube so they stay in place and sit the head on. Works every time. Thats it, no way shape or form being a PITA.

2. Cometic MLS being a POS? Why's that? I know countless, yes COUNTLESS people running this HG w/ 0 (ZERO) problems. Maybe its only you, but don't be to quick to say its junk. Its all about proper head and deck prep in order for ANY MLS to seal properly.

3. Kevlar Timing Belt. Its nice to have sure, but IMO its overrated and not needed. Over 90% of the T-belt failures that I have seen have been due the ribbing part of the belt ripping or tearing. There a problem there. The kevlar belt is reinforced kevlar in the top of the belt, but in the ribbing area its no stronger than a OEM belt. The key factor here is proper timing belt tension and pulley setup. T belts generally snap from being too tight, sure the kevlar belt may help there, but thats not to say it won't lead to other timing problems like w/ the tensioner etc.

4. New 1G pistons? Why? Any budget rebuild that desires a decent amout of power deserves to get at least some stock 2g 8.5 CR pistons. If hes already buying new pistons, get the 2g's 8.5CR and spend a few extra bucks and get the rods machined to fit the pistons and enjoy.

5. Decking the block not needed? I disagree. Maybe this is why you don't like the MLS HG's? I already mentioned the key factor in getting a MLS HG to seal properly is the head and deck surface. Having it prepped clean and straight and level is key. If its not decked, at least stick a level and straight edge on it making sure its straight and also you should spend a few hours physically prepping the block surface yourself w/ razor blades, gasket removers, etc. But if the block is out and getting machined already its stupid to NOT have it decked. When the block is decked it will have a new mirror perfect flat shiney surface that you can eat off of and it will be straight and level. Any MLS will have no probems sealing or holding on that setup.

6. You say no to 400 hp? Why's that? Sure he may have the supporting mods to make 400hp, but a nice 2g piston 1g rod w/ ARPs is easily a 500hp safe setup properly tuned.

7. Why do you say his clutch turbo and ECU will all crap out? That is all total BS. Maybe they do for you but from what else you have written I wouldn't be surprised if you do 6k drops all day long, run 30 psi on a 14b, and try to mod your ecu yourself. :sneaky:

8. About the Main bearings. The thrust bearing is essentially the center main. If your already out for a rebuild there is no reason not to replace the main bearings and properly check and adjust your crank end play w/ the thrust bearings IMO.
 
ok thanks thats what i thought anyone have an idea how much the meachine shop will charge for all this? and how much r 2g pistions? and last but not least could i put evo pistions in? if so what ones and are they better then 2g?
 
talon187 said:
ok thanks thats what i thought anyone have an idea how much the meachine shop will charge for all this? and how much r 2g pistions?

Machine shop prices vary, so you'll have to call them and get estimates.
Got mine from the partsdinosaur. They are ITM brand. They're on sale now for like $145 for 2g pistons and rings.
 
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