Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I agree. You are now learning so share some of YOUR knowledge

 

[pauleyman]

You likely won't find a "new"unit. Just a rebuild. Its quite possible yours is original to the car. Thats why I suggested keeping it. A rebuild is likely not much more than a thorough cleaning, new seals, boots and repaint. At this point I try hard not to give up oem parts as the aftermarket parts aren't always great or dont fit quite like they should. If yiu found a new not rebuilt unit you probably won't like the price.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I'm with Paul on trying to keep the OEM part if you can repair it. My son just rebuilt a Honda alternator after I told him to KEEP it over a rebuilt one. He ordered a rectifier, brushes (old brushes were down to the leads) and a regulator and rebuilt it on the kitchen table. He took it to the parts store for them to "test" it and it works better than their rebuilt units. Did it cost less, not really, but it is a better quality unit, if you have the skills to rebuild stuff.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Could you edit your post to give us some insight on what needed to happen to finally get it out? Doesnt have to be super long...just something like having to angle it a certain way or force it a little more than what you originally thought, etc. Thinking if someone searching steering rack removal might land on this thread and at the moment theyd be disapointed to not have some type of resolution to help their issue...

I did it. I think you’re definitely right, it is much better to put the full answer so they know how if they ever need too.

You likely won't find a "new"unit. Just a rebuild. Its quite possible yours is original to the car. Thats why I suggested keeping it. A rebuild is likely not much more than a thorough cleaning, new seals, boots and repaint. At this point I try hard not to give up oem parts as the aftermarket parts aren't always great or dont fit quite like they should. If yiu found a new not rebuilt unit you probably won't like the price.

Okay, I will definitely rebuild it then. I know most oem is still better than after market. Where can I grab a rebuild kit from? It seems I only need one boot, do I replace the other still? And the paint actually looks great. Was just really greasy, no rust or chips or anything.

 

[pauleyman]

Okay, I will definitely rebuild it then. I know most oem is still better than after market. Where can I grab a rebuild kit from? It seems I only need one boot, do I replace the other still? And the paint actually looks great. Was just really greasy, no rust or chips or anything.

I wrote that poorly. I meant I suggest buying a rebuilt unit to save time BUT do not turn in your old unit. Save it. However if youre up for it by all means rebuild what you have. Its also way cheaper.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I wrote that poorly. I meant I suggest buying a rebuilt unit to save time BUT do not turn in your old unit. Save it. However if youre up for it by all means rebuild what you have. Its also way cheaper.

I am ready to do whatever saves money but also will be better in the long run. I do not mind buying a used one, I have purchased one from a website called Detroit Axles, but i am not sure of the quality. I think it might have been a bad idea, and I should return it to rebuild mine or buy a rebuilt one. This new one and rebuilt one seem to be roughly the same price.

I do want to save time, you are right. I would much rather get whatever parts fast. But I want lasting and good quality still.

 

[pauleyman]

I had no problem with the rebuilt rack I bought but I wish i had saved my old one and rebuilt it for later. Thats what i was trying to convey

I do want to save time, you are right. I would much rather get whatever parts fast. But I want lasting and good quality still.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I had no problem with the rebuilt rack I bought but I wish i had saved my old one and rebuilt it for later. Thats what i was trying to convey

Got it, that makes sense. Should I keep the new one or return it you think then? The new one will get here in 2 day compared to waiting 2-3 weeks.

 

[pauleyman]

Got it, that makes sense. Should I keep the new one or return it you think then? The new one will get here in 2 day compared to waiting 2-3 weeks.

Entirely up to you. I was just sharing my experience.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Entirely up to you. I was just sharing my experience.

I think I might just end up trying to keep this new one and see how it is. I’ll keep the old one and rebuild if the new one kicks the dust. It wasn’t too expensive anyways, so we’ll try it. It also wasn’t the worst thing I’ve ever done with this car to get something out so I think I will be fine.

 

[DreamChaser7]

I’m in on this question too. I want to rebuild mine, but possible also get a rebuilt one for back up. Anyone know if there’s a rebuild kit? Or do we just have to source each part number individually? Mine is not a 2G obv.

 

[RubyEclipse]

First start up last night, she sounds amazing!! I absolutely loved hearing it again, got a coolant leak by the housing, suspected o-ring which is new so im going to check that out. And cylinder 4 ignition coil wire is sparking out. Besides that, it sounds beautiful. I love to add videos just in case anyone wants to see it.

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Also wanted to ask about the sending unit. I’ve looked up and seen multiple things. My gas gauge sorta works, not a lot but ish. It’ll be low and tell me which is very good, but not accurately. The light will come on when I got 3-4 gallons left. Everything I read said it’s probably the sending unit, can I replace the sensor on top without replacing the entire unit? Those things are dang expensive!!! Anyways just wanted to ask. Thanks guys!! Can’t wait to get my rack and get this car back on the road!!!!

 

[kyler021]

Also wanted to ask about the sending unit. I’ve looked up and seen multiple things. My gas gauge sorta works, not a lot but ish. It’ll be low and tell me which is very good, but not accurately. The light will come on when I got 3-4 gallons left. Everything I read said it’s probably the sending unit, can I replace the sensor on top without replacing the entire unit? Those things are dang expensive!!! Anyways just wanted to ask. Thanks guys!! Can’t wait to get my rack and get this car back on the road!!!!

Mine does the same thing. I just fully filled up yesterday. It took 12 gallons of gas despite being at the lowest point on the gauge. I wouldn't worry about it too much, our gas gauges on DSMs aren't the best. As soon as you go up a hill when you're low on gas, the gas light comes on. Then, when you're on flat ground again the light will go away. I think it's just the style of sending unit we use.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

I wouldn't worry about it too much, our gas gauges on DSMs aren't the best.

+1... Mine takes forever after filling the car for the needle to move up to the full mark. I usually make it back home before it actually gets there. When it gets close to the empty mark, it still actually has like 1/4 tank. Im not an E-rider so it rarely sees below half a tank anyway... I would never trust this gauge for accuracy.

 

[RubyEclipse]

+1... Mine takes forever after filling the car for the needle to move up to the full mark. I usually make it back home before it actually gets there. When it gets close to the empty mark, it still actually has like 1/4 tank. Im not an E-rider so it rarely sees below half a tank anyway... I would never trust this gauge for accuracy.

Yeah, I am more of an E-rider cause of the car I’ve been daily driving. It tells me how many miles I have left and it works great, but I have to not trust the eclipse for that.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Yeah, I am more of an E-rider cause of the car I’ve been daily driving. It tells me how many miles I have left and it works great, but I have to not trust the eclipse for that.

Lol...the E actually indicates how much your fuel pump hates you the closer the needle gets to it

 

[RubyEclipse]

Got my new rack, was wondering what these little rubber washers are for? Should I put them on before installation? And last thing, how many turns for the tie rod ends?

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[RubyEclipse]

Well gosh dang it. Per usual, another thing broke. Got the steering column hooked back up to the new rack, but the steering wheel won’t turn the wheels. It just spins and spins freely left and right. I’ve almost got it lined up perfectly, but not quite just yet. New rack moves great, feels like maybe it doesn’t move quite as much as my other did in terms of turn radius though is the only thing. But I could be wrong. I am sad I won’t be able to drive it soon, yet again. Should I start taking apart my steering column? I found little plastic leave on my seat and floor that seemed from it…

 

[RubyEclipse]

I’ve been going through checking all the linkages. Or spins the shafts down to where the rack and column meet. But that’s where the problems are, I think something in the steering wheel broke since I had the top piece come up, pieces fly, people have said stuff about a clock spring, some column couplings, and I could be missing other stuff. Just want to be able to turn my wheel . I think when I took off the shaft from the rack, I spun my wheel too much and too hard, so it broke whatever stopping it from spinning freely. That is my guess.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Alrighty, found out I was missing that stupid little bolt for the shaft to the rack, so I put that it and it turns now. I still need the belt out on and fluid filled up, but right now I have a sparking cylinder 4 wire, and a Bad leak in the coolant/thermostat housing. I’ve taken it off and replaced the gasket, but that’s clearly not working. I can’t figure out where it is leaking at all. It is somewhere by the housing, i think I’ve got to replace my coil pack cause it’s sparking out for the second one pretty bad. Making th car ride rough and misfire.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Going to get a new coil pack for the broken side, and some o rings for the coolant pipe and see if that solves the leaks. I am so excited that I only need to replace one side of the coil packs, I hadn’t known that was a thing.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Alrighty!! Car runs and drives beautiful, almost perfect. Rotors and scraping like absolute crazy. My guess is from the rain we just had when it was up on blocks for a few weeks. It never made these noises before that. My clock spring is broken, I’ve lost airbag, horn, and cruise control. I want to get a 98 clock spring because the one I found has perfect windshield washer controls, and mine are half broken. Will the 98 set up work on my 96? I got rid of all the coolant leaks I can see, so no more drips from that, power steering works great, pumps quiet. Only issue is only dripping from underneath intake manifold onto rack and ac compressor, so I gotta find that. But all in all, I am so excited!!! I finally have my car again. New turbos doing great, oil pressures good, I cleaned up the engine bay so it’s looking so much better I’ll attach a picture soon. Thank you all so so very much for the help!!!!

 

[RubyEclipse]

So we ran into some trouble, was driving absolutely great, got some miles on it, started to head home, and then it started misfiring. Out of nowhere. I thought maybe vacuum leak so I pull over and there’s no leak, I mess around with the spark plug wires and then the car started to idle normal. Thought I found my problem. Went home, got a p0300 code for cylinders 2 and 3. The coil pack was getting its 12 volts but giving zero spark, I’ve been doing a lot a research and my top 3 guesses after replacing the coil and nothing being wrong, is the CAS, CPS, and Ignition Transistor. The CAS is cracked so I’m replacing it, I have no idea what the transistor is and what it does, but the CPS is new and was not getting caught on anything. No tears or anything, it’s been doing fine. I think it’s worth to add that the plugs seemed to get very hot. Smelled almost like Smokey like, or burning. Something along those lines. I just had coil pack 1 go out so I replaced it and it was doing great, and then coil pack 2 “went out” when it didn’t even fix my problem so it was probably something else.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Would love any advice or suggestions on what to do and check next. My car is current only firing for 1 and 4, 2 and 3 for spark is dead. There is nothing.

 

[RubyEclipse]

So funny thing, I replaced all wires and got new ones, car has been running amazing for the last week, intermittent air pockets in coolant but it’s whatever. It’s just been a blast, taking it everywhere. Today, I was driving normally, decided to do a teeny pull with my buddy, and the car started to run on cylinder 1 and 4 again. I knew the feeling instantly from before. Pulled over, was getting no spark out of 2 and 3. I had my buddies follow me back to the house about 10 mins away, we made it so close, and then cylinders 1 and 4 gave out. It just died. Car sounds like it’s trying so hard to start but it just can’t. Long story short, we pushed it a mile and a half, at 12 AM. We all 3 got it back, and it will not give me any spark out of anything, plugs got pretty warm to hot, but there’s just nothing out of them. Isnt there only like 2-3 thinks that stop spark? CAS and crank sensor, and something else im forgetting. Any help would be great, thanks guys!!