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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
Last thing that is new, my speaker randomly started making a high pitched noise, and the weirdest part, is that it matches when I rev the car or not. This is brand new, and was not doing this last week.
This sounds like electrical feedback coming from the ignition system. It comes from electromagnetic fields generated by the high voltage and amps flowing through the coils and plug wires. Those fields induce electrical flow in adjacent wiring. Cars usually have either shielding around the wires or in-line resistors to isolate or absorb the excess electrical "noise." Do you have any aftermarket wiring for the stereo running through the engine bay to the battery? Also, is the little resistor on the driver's side of the intake plugged in and connected (I think it is there for the electrical dampening I mentioned)?
 
This sounds like electrical feedback coming from the ignition system. It comes from electromagnetic fields generated by the high voltage and amps flowing through the coils and plug wires. Those fields induce electrical flow in adjacent wiring. Cars usually have either shielding around the wires or in-line resistors to isolate or absorb the excess electrical "noise." Do you have any aftermarket wiring for the stereo running through the engine bay to the battery? Also, is the little resistor on the driver's side of the intake plugged in and connected (I think it is there for the electrical dampening I mentioned)?
Yes I have an aftermarket radio and amp hooked up, along with speakers. You could definitely be onto something with the electrical stuff, I was hearing noise in my amp a high pitched whine, it was getting louder with speeding up too. And i don’t think I know what device you’re referring too in the intake.
 
I was hearing noise in my amp a high pitched whine, it was getting louder with speeding up too. And i don’t think I know what device you’re referring too in the intake.
I think he's talking about this one-wire plug on the side of the intake:

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Capacitor (Noise Condenser)
 

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I think he's talking about this one-wire plug on the side of the intake:

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Capacitor (Noise Condenser)
Yes, that is plugged in. I checked the waste gate just cause I can, and it’s opening smoothly. I put some psi too the little circle thing that controls the arm, I don’t know the name. But it moved it forward and backward well. I hooked up my horribly made boost leak tester and heard nothing, all seemed fine. What else’s do I need to check for? Only so many possibilities can cause no bov correct? I also have another 1G bov that I’ll throw in there, I’ll take it for a spin soon and see. Also I picked up an aluminum radiator, quite a bit bigger seems to be doing good!! LOL
 
So I want to start from the beginning of where this noise came from because it’s seeming getting louder and worse. When driving, the PTU shook around because I forgot it bolt it down, it was half unplugged so I lost spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 3, it ran off of only 1 and 4 which I had to do one time before to get it home, this time it backfired, decently bad. Super super loud. Then I got it a bit further and the car died, my buddies and I pushed it over a mile back home, then the next day I saw the PTU was not fully plugged in, plugged it back in and it fired right up no issue, when I drove it home I realized it was very very weak and quite compared to what it was the previous day. I’ve checked the compressor wheel and it’s okay (there is none) and then I checked the waste gate arm and its pressure, it was working perfectly. So today that sound came back, and it was so much louder. It sounds like a very high pitched whistle. People have seen leaks from this at the J-pipe and BOV or compressor housing, but I see no leaks. Even after my test I saw and heard nothing. Let me know what you guys think, I don’t really know what to do about it. Besides this, it’s been running and starting amazing. Thanks everyone!!! :)
 
Blt with soapy water on every connection
 
Trying to find out why the cars sounding off, it sounds different. Weak revs, no bov, slow boost. There was also it struggling to stay alive at first, it started to die out when trying to idle. It struggled for a few seconds came back, then struggled again, and came back yet again.
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I have switched bovs and the noise, power loss, and super fast boost is the same. I thought the boost was slow, it’s the complete opposite. It’s very fast, it builds quick, but will not max out like it usually does. And then it stops and whistles very loudly. I checked all boost leaks and used start fluid but nothing ever happened, took out the airbox to see if blowing off to the atmosphere would be louder but it didn’t nothing. Turbo still feels good, no wiggle or shaft play. Let me know what you guys think I should check and do. Thanks guys! :) i only got a little bit of time before i need a car, so i really gotta start speeding this up.
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I checked all boost leaks and used start fluid but nothing ever happened
Have you ever checked for exhaust leaks from the block to the downpipe? If you did check, did you remove the turbo at any point and forget to check again once everything was back together? Could explain the whistle, loss of power and struggling idle...
 
Last edited:
Have you ever checked for exhaust leaks from the block to the downpipe? If you did check, did you remove the turbo at any point and forget to check again once everything was back together? Could explain the whistle, loss of power and struggling idle...
I do not know how to check for exhaust leaks, all i do is make sure the bolts are tight. I put on new gaskets from turbo wastegate to down pipe though. The only spot i can think of that would be an exhaust leak would be the metal mesh that is ripping on my down pipe. Besides that, everything is tight and has a new gasket.

Plus, this all happened after the PTU was half disconnected and i had that huge back fire I’ve never had. Even when I had the car on 2 plugs before, the car never back fired.
 
Have you ever checked for exhaust leaks from the block to the downpipe? If you did check, did you remove the turbo at any point and forget to check again once everything was back together? Could explain the whistle, loss of power and struggling idle...
I’m really wanting to see where that whistle is coming from, my first thought was serpentine belt. But there was no heat from the belts, i smelled something that smelt like belts burning but it could’ve been something else. But also, it only made noise in 4500+ rpm’s and only underload.
 
I’m really wanting to see where that whistle is coming from, my first thought was serpentine belt. But there was no heat from the belts, i smelled something that smelt like belts burning but it could’ve been something else. But also, it only made noise in 4500+ rpm’s and only underload.

Super simple to check for. Remove the heat shields, stick a shopvac in the exhaust(make sure theres no debris in the bucket ), put it in reverse so it blows air and spray soapy water where

1.the exhaust manifold meets the block.
2.The other end where it mates to the turbo
3. The turbo meets the o2 housing
4. O2 housing to downpipe.
5. the area of the downpipe where you say there is damage to the mesh.

Should be 4 gaskets i think. Itll bubble where the leaks are just like a boost test. Simple enough just to rule it out. On my car, the whistles that ive had was my 1g bov, the second time it was the manifold/turbo manifold gasket blowing hot air right on to my drivers side fan and melting it.. Twice. If youre smelling something burning, check around your exhaust path at all your connectors, wiring looms, that may show signs of melting from getting blasted with heat.
 
Super simple to check for. Remove the heat shields, stick a shopvac in the exhaust(make sure theres no debris in the bucket ), put it in reverse so it blows air and spray soapy water where

1.the exhaust manifold meets the block.
2.The other end where it mates to the turbo
3. The turbo meets the o2 housing
4. O2 housing to downpipe.
5. the area of the downpipe where you say there is damage to the mesh.

Should be 4 gaskets i think. Itll bubble where the leaks are just like a boost test. Simple enough just to rule it out. On my car, the whistles that ive had was my 1g bov, the second time it was the manifold/turbo manifold gasket blowing hot air right on to my drivers side fan and melting it.. Twice. If youre smelling something burning, check around your exhaust path at all your connectors, wiring looms, that may show signs of melting from getting blasted with heat.
Lemme jump in real quick like.. I think I found my boost leak, I hope.. I just think it’s weird because that part is brand new, like brand new..!! Is it normal..?? Then I’ll jump out real quick like.. LOL

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Lemme jump in real quick like.. I think I found my boost leak, I hope.. I just think it’s weird because that part is brand new, like brand new..!! Is it normal..?? Then I’ll jump out real quick like.. LOL

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That's an intake side BOV and it has a hose on the top of the valve diaphragm that tries to hold the valve closed under pressure, and pull the valve open under vacuum? The screw on the top - is that an adjustment screw for a spring on top of the valve?

You can try adjusting the screw on top to increase/decrease the spring pressure and see if that helps or hurts the leak.
 
That's an intake side BOV and it has a hose on the top of the valve diaphragm that tries to hold the valve closed under pressure, and pull the valve open under vacuum? The screw on the top - is that an adjustment screw for a spring on top of the valve?

You can try adjusting the screw on top to increase/decrease the spring pressure and see if that helps or hurts the leak.
Thank you, I’ll give it a whirl
 
Super simple to check for. Remove the heat shields, stick a shopvac in the exhaust(make sure theres no debris in the bucket ), put it in reverse so it blows air and spray soapy water where

1.the exhaust manifold meets the block.
2.The other end where it mates to the turbo
3. The turbo meets the o2 housing
4. O2 housing to downpipe.
5. the area of the downpipe where you say there is damage to the mesh.

Should be 4 gaskets i think. Itll bubble where the leaks are just like a boost test. Simple enough just to rule it out. On my car, the whistles that ive had was my 1g bov, the second time it was the manifold/turbo manifold gasket blowing hot air right on to my drivers side fan and melting it.. Twice. If youre smelling something burning, check around your exhaust path at all your connectors, wiring looms, that may show signs of melting from getting blasted with heat.
The mesh Part is like ripping in half. I’ll get a picture to you guys soon, hope you all have an amazing thanksgiving!!! 😁

This is the underside of my car. That metal wire thing on the down pipe is the mesh. It’s all welded and covered so I don’t know what to do. I just know it smells like fumes when I pop my hood, there is also stuff that made my down pipe and exhaust wet. I can see water that somehow got under there. What do you guys think I should do?
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This is the underside of my car. That metal wire thing on the down pipe is the mesh. It’s all welded and covered so I don’t know what to do. I just know it smells like fumes when I pop my hood, there is also stuff that made my down pipe and exhaust wet. I can see water that somehow got under there. What do you guys think I should do?
I don't believe the mesh being torn is a concern, all the mesh does is cover the flex section of the downpipe. An exhaust leak would most likely be at the flanges, unless there is a hole somewhere in the pipe itself.
 
I don't believe the mesh being torn is a concern, all the mesh does is cover the flex section of the downpipe. An exhaust leak would most likely be at the flanges, unless there is a hole somewhere in the pipe itself.
I just know I am definitely smelling fumes. I replaced the gasket too o2 housing to turbo, and the manifold to turbo. I have no gasket for the down pipe because I can’t find one, and there’s also a new manifold gasket.
 
I have no gasket for the down pipe because I can’t find one, and there’s also a new manifold gasket.
You don’t have a gasket on your downpipe?

And if you don’t, the condensation from the exhaust will leak onto the outside of the pipes causing it to be wet, which is also what you were experiencing.
 
You don’t have a gasket on your downpipe?

And if you don’t, the condensation from the exhaust will leak onto the outside of the pipes causing it to be wet, which is also what you were experiencing.
Where the down pipe meets the exhaust, as is the 2 big bolts with 19mm nuts is held on. I still don’t understand the water under there, there’s lots of fluids under to be honest.

Where can I even find one of those down pipe gaskets?
 
I just know I am definitely smelling fumes. I replaced the gasket too o2 housing to turbo, and the manifold to turbo. I have no gasket for the down pipe because I can’t find one, and there’s also a new manifold gasket.
Scroll down. If you want one today you can get generic gaskets at any auyo parts store. Might have to open the bolt holes some.

 
Found the exhaust leak and fixed it. Still, no boost build up. Gauge only moves, but it’s not strong or fast. It takes forever, never fully spools, and there’s no BOV sound at all. I tried 2. But it starts and drives.
 
Found the exhaust leak and fixed it. Still, no boost build up. Gauge only moves, but it’s not strong or fast. It takes forever, never fully spools, and there’s no BOV sound at all. I tried 2. But it starts and drives.
Have you checked the turbo for play? Additionally just take the down pipe off and take a very short spin. Will rule out exhaust restriction.
 
Have you checked the turbo for play? Additionally just take the down pipe off and take a very short spin. Will rule out exhaust restriction.
I did. It has zero play. It feels amazing. Okay, I will do that. I was going too but forgot. There’s just no noise and power feels like it’s lacking. But it drives and idles amazingly!!

It still sounds quiet too. I’ll definitely check the exhaust soon.
 
Well gentlemen, with extreme sadness and disappointment, I have come to say farewell. (For now…) due to financial difficulties and this car just sucking me dry of all money, I have to gave a reliable car that gets better gas mileage and not premium LOL. I did as you all said and sold her whole to a gentlemen who very much loved it, it pained me more than I knew to see her off. I picked up a new car the next day for a very very good price. I think this was part of Gods timing and it was time for me to be rid of that beloved car. If you are curious at all, the new car is a 1989 Camry LE wagon v6. Great little car, very very few miles and super fun to drive. It’s no eclipse, but it’s good for now. I came to say good bye and thank you all for all of your help and advice, I truly. Appreciate each and everyone of you guys. I truly hope I’ll be able to afford another DSM and it will treat me a tad better. Thank you all, you’ve all been the best people to talk and learn from, I’ve truly loved this experience even if it took a full years salary as a senior in high school. 😂 I do hope to talk to all soon enough, stay safe and drive well. I pray the Lord be with you all, thank you guys, once again.

- RubyEclipse
 
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