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Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

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RubyEclipse

Proven Member
699
264
Feb 2, 2025
Delhi, California
Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!
 
ICM was half on. I fixed it.
Yeah, I had a brain fart. He'd have too much air, not fuel.

That being said, is it more likely a wiring/module problem rather than it being the plugs? If the 2 and 3 cylinders were missing at the same time?

???
Small 16? I thought you were reinstalling your T25 until you get all the issues hammered out and have it running right, no?
It’s been running great. Few oil leaks im trying to find, but it’s been running great. ICM thing is from it not being bolted down, and maybe going bad. Now the exhaust thing being so quiet and car being weak is new.

You can also have it remote tuned as long as you have Link
I was looking at that, but I have nothing. Just a stock ‘97 ecu. My 96 one I think kind of blew itself, never got any check engines and I needed the cam sensor moved, so it wouldn’t run until I got the new one.
 
When you say ICM are you referring to the ECU or the PTU? I am old and confused, but that's beside the point.....LOL
 
The PTU, Ignition Control Module is what I’ve seen people call it.


In what way?
It's "officially" a Power Transistor Unit (PTU) so I was familiarizing you with the term. We have a write up on some of the "slanguage" we often use on here somewhere. :)
 
It's "officially" a Power Transistor Unit (PTU) so I was familiarizing you with the term. We have a write up on some of the "slanguage" we often use on here somewhere. :)
Ah got it. Had no idea, thank you. 🙏

Got a few new things happening. My car will not stop getting air bubbles. I mean it will just not stop, after a few hours of driving there’s more. Gas mileage crapped itself, like 8-12 miles a gallon. I’m getting 150-200 range. Turbos leaking, yet again on top, power loss, and kind of slows big time when turbo is fully spooled, and the BOV is making barely any noise anymore. I’ve got new plugs since the old ones were blacked., they’re gapped. I’ve got oil leaks in quite a few different spots, and it always always smells like it’s burning oil from engine bay. It’s always smoking from the bay. Oil under the intake manifold, under the car I could see it. Going to check for boost leak soon.

Last thing that is new, my speaker randomly started making a high pitched noise, and the weirdest part, is that it matches when I rev the car or not. This is brand new, and was not doing this last week. When the car lost 2/3 cylinders, it started back firing which did not happen last time. After it back fired 1 and 4 fully went out too. I’ve purchased a new PTU bust in case, let me know where to start and what to even start doing.
 
Head gasket? Or time for a freshen up.
 
Last thing that is new, my speaker randomly started making a high pitched noise, and the weirdest part, is that it matches when I rev the car or not.
You sure that noise isn't coming from the engine bay? Boost leaks will make a noise like that sometimes.
power loss, and kind of slows big time when turbo is fully spooled, and the BOV is making barely any noise anymore.
This could be because you don't have a tune on the car. You should not go full throttle or be in boost without a tune. The BOV not making noise could be a sign of a boost leak.
 
You sure that noise isn't coming from the engine bay? Boost leaks will make a noise like that sometimes.

This could be because you don't have a tune on the car. You should not go full throttle or be in boost without a tune. The BOV not making noise could be a sign of a boost leak.
It’s definitely from the speaker, I put my ear up next to it, just weird how it’s in tune with throttle control. Also, the BOV works, it’s just quieter compared to what it was before. But when I was in full throttle and boosting before, it was running amazing and had zero hardships with the turbo.
 
Small 16g on wastegate spring will not require a tune.
You sure that noise isn't coming from the engine bay? Boost leaks will make a noise like that sometimes.

This could be because you don't have a tune on the car. You should not go full throttle or be in boost without a tune. The BOV not making noise could be a sign of a boost leak.
 
Run a single vacuum line from your pressure source to wastegate actuator. Bypass the boost solenoid but leave it electrically connected. This will be the lowest boost possible.
I have 2 spots, the waste gate, and one in the tube connecting intercooler too the solenoid. They both come together and meet at the solenoid. So do I run a straight line from the intercooler pipe to waste gate? The line I had originally had from the plastic intake pipe, the super small one, is gone. No idea where it went, but I haven’t been using it for second anyways. There’s definitely a few spots for boost leaks.

Run a single vacuum line from your pressure source to wastegate actuator. Bypass the boost solenoid but leave it electrically connected. This will be the lowest boost possible.
Do I want the lowest boost possible? I thought I wanted to build it??
 
Do not drive it around without a tune. You NEED a tune if you want your car to last. Get a DSMLink ECU first and foremost. Then find a shop that either specializes in DSMs locally. Or get a remote tune. For DSMLink, you need a 1995 EPROM ECU to send out and get yours chipped for tuning, then find a shop
It doesn't need a tune, it needs to be at Stage "0" which is a normal running engine. If I recall correctly, it still has stock injectors and MAF.
 
Do I want the lowest boost possible? I thought I wanted to build it??
For now you do. The tune were talking about., it has to do with providing fuel and right now you dont have the ability to add any.
+1 ...running lean and have no way to monitor how much knock youd be encountering. Small 16g flows considerably more air than the t25.
 
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It doesn't need a tune, it needs to be at Stage "0" which is a normal running engine. If I recall correctly, it still has stock injectors and MAF.
Yes, it does.

For now you do. The tune we’re talking about., it has to do with providing fuel and right now you dont have the ability to add any.
Got it, that makes sense. So just one hose from turbo pipe to watergate correct?

+1 ...running lean and have no way to monitor how much knock youd be encountering. Small 16g flows considerably more air than the t25.
Got it, thank you all!! LOL

One more thing I wanted to ask about, my coolant system will not stop getting air bubbles. I watch it slowly build up, and then go back down. I’ll bleed it, it’ll run for an hour or 2 fine, and then they’re back. I thought the head would be done and tightened, I made sure multiple times. Anything I should try or do? It’s for a new thermostat.
 
Pressure test the cooling system. If the test holds pressure without bleeding off, then the problem is almost certainly an issue of combustion gasses making their way past the head gasket and into the water jackets.
 
Pressure test the cooling system. If the test holds pressure without bleeding off, then the problem is almost certainly an issue of combustion gasses making their way past the head gasket and into the water jackets.
Ok got it, I’ll try that soon. I got a new radiator today, so I’ll throw that in soon.

Today didn’t go very well, I got some parts for my car to make it look better inside and more complete from cracked or missing pieces, but I also got the wiper I needed for the clockspring, it’s still broken and missing the top but it works. I put in a new PTU and kept the old one, I got my clock spring all set up, spun 3 and 1/8th times. Alignment looks decent I won’t lie, I think I did a good job. The bad things that happened, I switched the hoses with the turbo like you guys said, it either didn’t do anything, or made it all worse. I’m not even hearing my BOV anymore along with the it being slow. Not horrid, but slow. I’m starting to get worried the turbos the issue. My intercooler decided to take a dip under my car and got scratched up, not horrid and no holes through it thank goodness, and then lastly the little mesh bendable down pipe whatever, finally gave out and is hanging by a thread, my exhaust is almost on the floor. So that I have to get welded. Going to fix oil leak tmrw on turbo, yet again. New radiator, check for leaks in it, and then see if we can narrow down the cause of no BOV sound. I’ll check the turbo and make sure no shaft play and spins freely.

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I don’t think the turbos looking to hot guys… it will not stop leaking from the top port, i tried my best to tighten it yet again yesterday, but it just wasn’t working at all. BOV is sounding less and less, horsepowers losing, and the noise coming from the turbo is awful.
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