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[RESOLVED] Crank won't turn, cylinder wall rust / rusty

OddNotion

Proven Member
135
2
Jan 15, 2006
Fairfax, Virginia
Well, you said you have the cams off? I guess if you can see where the tops of the valve stems are you can see that they are all in the same line (as i assume they should be, all valves should be closed with the cams removed, right?)

That way you know it's not piston/valve interference, which it seems was ruled out already. Just thinking out loud I guess.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
All the valve springs are even at the top. Is that what you mean?
 

OddNotion

Proven Member
135
2
Jan 15, 2006
Fairfax, Virginia
Play it safe and take your head off, yes I know it sucks but it will be better in the long run.

I'm still not sure what good it will do to take the head off. It certainly won't help with the rust on the bottom of the cylinder, below the pistons.

As for any upper cylinder rust, you can't just go at it with sandpaper, or even a scuffing pad. Scuffing pads are softer grit, but the abrasive impregnated in them is not something you want anywhere near a cylinder wall. Especially one that's not totally diassembled waiting to be hot-tanked.

I'm still waiting for someone else to contradict my suspicion that the piston rings are just going to have to sort it out by themselves (sorry Eric, I know that sounds horrible :( )
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

My mechanic buddy came over to help me out. I sprayed the crap out of the underside with WD-40 with the pistons in several different positions, then we tried turning it with the breaker bar and it did with ease!! It now spins completely around. You can still feel a bit of resistance where the rust spots are but my friend said it should be fine. I hope he's right, cause I'm running it :D I also put a couple squirts of WD-40 down the spark plug holes for good measure.


Let this be a lesson to all. Don't make the same mistake I did. :nono: If your engine is going to sit for any period of time, make sure to lubricate the cylinder walls and cover the motor well.


Thanks for the help everybody!
 

Jeff99GS

Proven Member
1,870
14
Jun 27, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio
I had a feeling that was the problem...IMO the best thing to do is tear that engine apart and Hone the block.

If you're broke though just spray some penetrating oil down in the spark plug holes and let it sit a day or two. Then spray some more oil in the spark plug holes the next day and FIRE her up. :coy:

It will be okay. Nothing worse than letting your car sit ALL winter and NOT once starting it, like some people do.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
I don't plan on starting the car for another 4-5 months maybe. Now what steps should I take from here to make sure it's ok? Spray some oil in there once every couple weeks or so, and then when I first start it? Just to be clear, I sprayed a LOT of WD-40 at the cylinders from the bottom of the engine today.

Tearing the engine apart is out of my budget. Ideally I would rebuild it, but I just can't.
 

Jeff99GS

Proven Member
1,870
14
Jun 27, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio
If the timing belt is off and the oil pan and other parts are ON, you can pour 4.5 quarts of oil in the engine. Then get a drill with a 14mm socket and put it on the oil pump sprocket full speed. While you're doing this have someone crank the engine over by hand. This will help Lube up anything that is NOT getting hit with the WD-40.

Pour a little thick oil or something like Lucas in the spark plug holes then rotate the crank to coat the cylinder walls good.

Last step, Cover the engine really good and tie the bags up so NO moisture gets in there.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Maybe I should explain better. Hopefully I'll be putting the engine back in the car in about 2 weeks. Everything will be on the engine except the timing belt. I will need the engine exposed so I can work on rewiring my harnesses. So you're saying I should put oil in it and prime it now? Then prime it again before I put the timing belt on when I'm ready to start it?
 

Jeff99GS

Proven Member
1,870
14
Jun 27, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio
Oh okay...it should be good for a few weeks...I thought it was going to be sitting for a few more months. At least pour some heavy weight oil in the spark plugs holes and the crank the engine. This will coat the walls with something thicker than wd-40
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Ok, I'm bad at explaining. The engine will be on the stand for 2 weeks or so, then it will go in the car and sit for about 4 months.
 

Jeff99GS

Proven Member
1,870
14
Jun 27, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio
Ok, I'm bad at explaining. The engine will be on the stand for 2 weeks or so, then it will go in the car and sit for about 4 months.

Haha maybe. Or I'm just bad at understaning LOL. I think it will be okay. Once the engine is in the car just start it and run it for 10 minutes once a week. That keeps things from seizing up on you.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Ok, I'm still bad at this! Last try. Engine is on stand for 2 more weeks, then goes in car without timing belt, sits in car without timing belt for about 4 months so I can rewire the engine bay, then I'll prime it, throw timing belt on, and start it.
 

Jeff99GS

Proven Member
1,870
14
Jun 27, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio
ROFL LOL Oh I see. I dont know then....the best way to prevent that suface rust is to keep the engine DRY and WARM.
Like in a heated garage or shop of some sort.
But if you park outside or in a cold moist garage then I would Prime the engine as I explained before putting it in the car, and then agian before start up in 4 months.

While you're wiring things remember to periodically turn the crank with a capfull of oil in each cylinder.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Heated garage ROFL I work in the street!

Ok, I'll prime it now, periodically turn the crank, and occasionally add a bit of oil to the cylinders.
 

Jeff99GS

Proven Member
1,870
14
Jun 27, 2006
Cleveland, Ohio
Heated garage ROFL I work in the street!

Ok, I'll prime it now, periodically turn the crank, and occasionally add a bit of oil to the cylinders.

Its' going to smoke like a bi*** when you first start it from the oil in the cylinders, but it will clear out eventually. Then I would change the oil after you run it for a few days on the intial start up. You dont want all those rust particals in your oil. :notgood:

As long as you keep turning the crank once a week it won't have a chance to rust up.
 

romeen

DSM Wiseman
2,533
36
Jul 12, 2006
Vancouver, Washington
Eric, most auto parts stores should have engine fogging oil made especially to combat rust during long storage. I believe it usually comes in an aerosol that you can spray down the plug holes. I'm not sure if it truly is more effective than a thick grade of motor oil for this purpose but it's something you may want to look into.

I would think something intended for storage of boat engines/marine applications should be quite effective.
 

turbosax2

Moderator
4,390
364
Nov 19, 2006
Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it.
 
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