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Resolved Can't get head to manifold stud out

Posted by Helaman-99, Aug 7, 2020

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  1. Helaman-99

    Helaman-99 Proven Member

    73
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    Joined May 10, 2019
    Spokane Valley, Washington
    Hey guys, today's been a little long. I've been trying to get this stud out because I broke it while reinstalling my exhaust manifold, but I can't seem to get it.

    So I started by drilling a small hole so that I can use an extractor set that I have, got the hole drilled and I proceeded to use the extractor. It started to work, and I was slowly unscrewing the stud out of the hole, but then the extractor bit broke off in the hole I drilled. Since then I have tried (to no avail) to drill another hole in the center, but it seems as though the broken extractor is impervious to EVERY bit I throw at it. I even ground it down a bit the get a smooth surface to try to start over, but I can barely get a dent in the thing.

    IMG_2208.JPG
    IMG_2209.JPG

    The only place I can drill is on the side, next to where the bit broke off, as you can see in the picture. But it started drilling into the side of the stud hole... so I'm stuck. I want to do this myself, but 1. I'm a complete noob, and 2. the only place I can effectively drill a whole is a place where an extractor won't work, so should I just take it to a shop? Or have I done too much damage? Thanks in advance guys.
     

    142  5

    2019 Mazda Mazda3 Hatchback
    awd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

    579  9

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  2. Sniffbooger

    Sniffbooger Proven Member

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    Joined Apr 12, 2020
    Torrance, California
    Yes unfortunately that's the problem once the extractor bit breaks off in the stud you are screwed there's no way to get it out because the metal on the screw extractor bit is super tempered and very hard. That's the worst thing that could have happened.... Maybe get an extra thick copper gasket and see if you can use that even with the broken stud maybe your exhaust manifold will still seal...
     

    Street Build 333  8

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  3. Helaman-99

    Helaman-99 Proven Member

    73
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    Joined May 10, 2019
    Spokane Valley, Washington
    Yeah, I've got the quad-layer oem gasket waiting to be put on. It wasn't leaking when I drove the car previously, but I made sure to NEVER hit boost haha so far my efforts have been pretty meh. I've been drilling and using a dremmel tool, but it's taken hours to get a little dent. I'm too stubborn I guess LOL

    Thanks for the reply!
     

    142  5

    2019 Mazda Mazda3 Hatchback
    awd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

    579  9

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  4. 19Eclipse90

    19Eclipse90 DSM Wiseman

    4,840
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    OKC, Oklahoma
    It won't seal long term, if at all.

    Someway, somehow, it can come out. A machine shop can definitely get it out, though they will cuss you for trying at all and leaving them the mess you're paying them to fix. The other way would be small carbide tipped tools, and a lot of them. And patience to match. Getting through the extractor will not be quick or easy. At the end of the day, it may be cheaper to just take it to a shop and have it taken care of.
     
  5. pauleyman

    pauleyman DSM Wiseman

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    oklahoma city, Oklahoma
    Was it moving at all? Longshot but if you can get a slot to the side of that extractor maybe slide the tip of a flat screwdriver in it and get it to turn. Or if you can get a small tool to grind a slot in the extractor and see if it will screw out so you can use another one. I wouldn't continue to drill to the side.
     

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    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
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  6. motomattx

    motomattx Proven Member

    3,027
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    Joined Dec 9, 2010
    wampum, Pennsylvania
    We have all had that exact same looking thing in front of us at one time, heat will allow it to come out easier next time and even this time if you manage to get a hole or slot in it, you will need a handful of carbide or titanium bits on either a drill or on a dremel type of tool with an end mill burr on it.
     

    Drag Race Build 4K  24

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  7. Helaman-99

    Helaman-99 Proven Member

    73
    35
    Joined May 10, 2019
    Spokane Valley, Washington
    Thanks for the replies guys. I knew heat would help, but didn't really have much on hand. And yeah, I should've stopped drilling on the right side... the left side-hole thing was accidental. :D What I ended up doing was taking a dremmel tool and some diamond-tipped bits and ground it down till I got through the extractor and then drilled a hole big enough for a bigger extractor bit. Just got it out. Thanks again and you guys rock! :hellyeah:
     

    142  5

    2019 Mazda Mazda3 Hatchback
    awd · automatic · Misc Vehicles

    579  9

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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    Kryndon likes this.
  8. The 4ce

    The 4ce Probationary Member

    24
    2
    Joined May 8, 2018
    San Diego, California
    I was just in your shoes very recently. Its a bit late, but you coulda done the Ole harbor freight trick... Buy a HF welder. Weld on a nut to the broken stud. Use wrench to run it out. Then return the welder. Sounds and looks sketchy when you watch the youtubers do it, but it actually works. Just did one 2 weeks ago.
     

    Street Build 565  1

    1974 DODGE COLT COUPE
    rwd · manual · 4G63t Swapped
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  9. Mech Addict

    Mech Addict Proven Member

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    Joined Jun 9, 2019
    Jackson, Wyoming
    Dremel wins again: I’ve had mostly success with them as last resort. I also used the heat trick using propane torch. Especially with aluminum, since it expands much more than the steel fastener at a given temp. Just don’t crack/ warp the surrounding metal. I’ve Not yet needed it, but have considered dry ice in contact with only what’s left of the fastener, to shrink it. Glad you had success.
     

    Street Build 552  6

    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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    Helaman-99 likes this.

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