Upgrade to arp head stud kit

[xandrew245x]

I have my 7 bolt engine out and have been working on it, I'm replacing all the gaskets, and timing components while its out. I want to replace my turbo in the future with a T28 and possibly push my boost to 20psi or higher. Should I go ahead now and upgrade to APR head studs and a heavy duty head gasket?

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

If you choose to do so now, you may as well have the head refreshed. By heavy duty head gasket, you probably mean the stock or Felpro composite as an MLS requires an RA finish on both head and block.

However, if your head gasket is fine, I will lean towards "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

 

[xandrew245x]

The head gasket is toast, so its needing replacement anyways. By refreshing the head do you mean having it resurfaced, or having work done to the whole head? I figure I mys well spend the little extra cash now when its easy to do vs trying to replace the gasket and studs while its in the car later down the line.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Well, since you should replace the head bolts anyway, go ARP studs. Regarding your head, check out this thread (so I don't need to type it out):

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-what-to-rebuild-2g-head.365073/

Again, since it does not seem you plan to do anything to the block, I would not use and MLS head gasket.

 

[xandrew245x]

Thanks for the good information. I'm not sure if I want to go that far, I was planning on keeping engine internals all stock, Thats a lot more in depth then I want to go with this project.

 

[OGDSM1989]

Even on my stock motors I use a Composite Head gasket ( OEM or Fel-Pro ) and ARP head studs they are just and extra protection if you plan on running a little extra boost later in life ..... be sure to use OEM timing parts ( tensioner , idler , pulleys ) I did use a Gates water pump. Rock Auto was having a real good deal 1g parts not sure about 2g. Along with any and all gaskets I can replace while in there replacing any timing parts and head gasket, ( CAS o-ring, water pipe o-rings etc etc )

 

[xandrew245x]

Thanks for the info. All my timing components are OEM except for the water pump and timing belt, which are gates. I plan on replacing all gaskets, except for the the front cover gasket. It wasn't leaking any oil from there previously, so I'm going to let it be. I am going to go ahead and order the ARP head studs. I ordered an aftermarket gasket set(DNJ), but I know it has an MLS head gasket so I'm going to have to get myself a composite.

 

[xandrew245x]

Edited, I found the answer I was looking for.

 

[xandrew245x]

Going back to having work done on the head, other than machine work, is it acceptable to do the rest of the work myself?(deassembly and reassembly) or is this much better left up to a shop?

If I do go ahead with this in thinking of having thenough stock valves cut and need Springs and lifters. Anything else I should add?

 

[curt-s]

Do you feel comfortable with a spring compressor and valve removal/installation? Are you able to measure installed height and spring rates? Can you do the math for factoring in shims, if needed?

Its not rocket science so if youre smart about it, confident in your work, and take the necessary approach, why not do it yourself?

 

[xandrew245x]

I can't say that I'm necessarily comfortable with it all since I have neveread done it before, but with the manual and the abundant amount of info from this site I have confidence that I could figure it all out.

Other than having the valves cut should I have any machine work done to the head itself?

 

[curt-s]

Should? No, but they should check the guides and the valve stems just to see if there's significant wear. How are the valve stem seals?

If you have confidence and you do stuff carefully, that's all that's really needed for a hardware swap in the head. I've done it a couple times.. first time I've never done it before (obviously). Made some mistakes with getting new seals on, but in the end it all worked out.

Then I sold the head because I had no confidence in the machine work done by what I thought was a reputable shop. So I had more confidence in my own work than I did in 'professionals'. Go figure

 

[xandrew245x]

The shop I contacted didnt seem to be very knowledgeable about what needs to be done plus he qouted me 250-300 just for a valve job and if he were to disassemble do the machining and reassemble with my parts he said 800.

 

[xandrew245x]

I'm going to hold off on any head work right now. I want to save up enough money to upgrade the cams, springs, lifters, valves and adjustable cam gears all in one shot. And before I do all that I want to get a 16g turbo installed, upgrade my fuel pump with a regulation system and upgrade the injectors. Then I want to get ECMlink. I want to have all that finished before I throw a new cam in.

 

[babyviper]

Wish somebody could change the title of this thread, cause it's spelled so wrong. "APR", "KID"? This is why I can't find anything when searching the forums because threads like this.

 

[xandrew245x]

Glad you pointed that out because I didn't even notice. My phone has a vengeance for auto correcting.