ARP Head Stud Torque Specs??

[BIGBLAZE79]

Just for info purposes when someone searches arp stud install. When I did mine, I used a tap to clean the threads in the block. I also used some high temp thread locker on the stud. Screwed it down all the way in and pretty tight using an allen wrench. Let the block sit for a day then proceded to torque the head down in the order stated above. I used the mitsubishi multi steel layered head gasket. Had the head surface decked. I went to 95FT/LBS with arp lube and holy crap it was so tight I thought I was going to strip the block or stud. It worked fine and I have over 5K on the motor now. Max psi so far is 18. Couldn't go higher due to boost leak on turbo compressor housing. My Precision T & E SCM4431R turbo is going to show up today so I will see very soon how 30PSI holds up.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Screwed it down all the way in and pretty tight using an allen wrench.

Your only supposed to screw it in hand tight. remember studs are different that bolts... basically you preloaded the stud in the block. Not ideal for studs. Im not saying its going to fail. but it will fail sooner than if you hadn't (not sooner as in miles, but sooner as in; it will take less stress to will take to stretch them)

 

[Freerevving]

Your only supposed to screw it in hand tight. remember studs are different that bolts... basically you preloaded the stud in the block. Not ideal for studs. Im not saying its going to fail. but it will fail sooner than if you hadn't (not sooner as in miles, but sooner as in; it will take less stress to will take to stretch them)

When you're using threadlocker you're supposed to screw them in tight

 

[syrushcw]

I know torque is 85 with lube and 60 with out. What are the pros and cons(if there are any) of using the lube and putting them on dry?

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Realistically lube is better. If anything happened to the engine, i.e. head gasket blow, do further work on you block, etc... is it an advantage to use lube to prevent corrosion, rust, and stripping from happened and it'll make it easier for you.

 

[Anger890]

Use the lube it was desingned to give a consistent torque value by eliminating any potential binding or friction that could change the torque value when tightening the studs.

 

[pboglio]

Putting them in dry brings surface friction into play big time (i.e. burrs etc.). What will look consistent in meausured torque rating will produce varying amounts of stud tension. When you use the molylube, surface friction affects are minimized and stud tension is much more consistent stud to stud. With eash stud providing 10,000 lbs of clamping force or something along those lines, you don't really want to have a large variation in stud tension, or for that matter too much or not enough tension on the stud.

I'm not saying the molylube produces no friction, as that would produce more stud tension for the same torque, I'm just saying ARP has correlated the molylubes coefficient of friction with the torque rating and stud tension.

Using the molylube and the suggested torque ratings, your stud tension will be within what ARP has designed the head stud to withstand, as well as being consistent stud to stud.

Just do yourself a favor, use the molylube with their suggested torque rating, and retorque after a couple of drives.

 

[pj91gsx]

I didnt think they could be torqued to 85, what can the heavy duty arp head studs be torqued too?

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

I went to 95FT/LBS with arp lube and holy crap it was so tight I thought I was going to strip the block or stud. It worked fine and I have over 5K on the motor now.

 

[97 4G63]

I torqued mine to 90lbs whit arp lube.

 

[pj91gsx]

did you guys have the extreme heavy duty studs or the regular studs? Thats a lot of ft lbs.

 

[BIGBLAZE79]

As far as I know they were the regular ones. I didn't know there were even heavy duty ones. I installed them about two years ago and I'm not sure if they even sold two diff ones back then.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Your typical ARP head stud needs to be torqued to (I think 7 bolts may vary, a search will yield a definite answer) 85 ft.lb with arp moly lube. If you DO NOT use their supplied moly lube, you can use heavy weight gear oil and torque to 120 ft.lb, but I highly recommend using their supplied lube. Also, don't forget to torque in even steps and follow the factory torque sequence.

The A1 and L19 headstuds are higher rated head studs for high boost / high horsepower applications.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Using the molylube and the suggested torque ratings, your stud tension will be within what ARP has designed the head stud to withstand, as well as being consistent stud to stud.

Just do yourself a favor, use the molylube with their suggested torque rating, and retorque after a couple of drives.

Quoted for truth.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Word ^

I just did mine this week. I did it in steps. 65 lb ft, wait a few minutes, then torque to 75 lb ft, waited again, then finally 85 lb ft. I will retorque them to 85 lb ft again once the engine is broken in after 500 miles. These instructions are from Tim Salefski, the engine builder from AMS. <--He knows his shit.

 

[pj91gsx]

Would they actually loosen up though.

 

[b-morr]

I don't know about loosening up to cause any problems, but maybe a few ft/lbs.