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Questions for Justin...

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if it has a 6 cm housing will it still work?
You don't want to use a 6cm housing on anything larger than a 14B. Even 14B owners have reported gains from switching to a 7cm housing.

A 6cm housing is designed for spool- make a Big 16G (or larger) turbo spool too soon and it will

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Pretty easy. 7cm.doesnt have a step down in it 6cm will.
Wrong.

6cm:

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7cm:

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OR....

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All MHI DSM turbos are intended to be used with a sealing ring between the manifold and turbo....hence the "step".
 

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Our super-cold days last week was almost more than my GS's battery could handle....although I drive that car about 3 miles to work and back each day, and unless I go anywhere else that's all it gets. The trip home is even at night, so the lights and heater are on. In my mind the battery just isn't getting charged enough.

I'm even on the 1g manual alternator..If i let the car run, lights on even everything is fine.Shut it off, starts right back up..

Damm cold weather:(

Also i'll give you 4 dollars for that can of surge..

Ohh btw other folks..I never had a 6cm housing on my 14b, but it sure does love having the ported 7cm housing..Cant wait to log:thumb:
 
Hi Justin, I have an evo3 16g that the comp wheel has rubbed the comp housing. It appears to be minor, but I understand it will get much worse if left ran as is. In your experience, is this something that can be rebuilt without needing a new wheel or other major part? I can take more pictures if needed
 

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Depends how bad the damage is, and whether the housing shows marks over the entire radius or just in one spot which would signal something like a bent shaft. Any time a compressor wheel rubs the cover there's a chance the shaft could be bent, so it's advised the turbo be checked out by a professional instead of just slapping a parts kit in it and giving it hell.

I'm sure you're aware, but definitely do NOT run that turbo in it's current condition. ;)
 
Justin, my friend has an FP18g with a cracked backhousing. What are his replacement options? I don't mess with the smaller frame turbos enough to know what housings can go with what turbos LOL
 
If it's a 18G-6SL2, he'll either need to buy a used replacement housing for that exact turbo or get a MHI housing machined to accept the larger TD06SL2 turbine.

It it's a TD05H 18G, any TD05H turbine housing will fit.
 
Lag is a variable, not a constant. Two equally-spec'd cars will make full boost at different RPM's....that's just how it works. All I can tell you is an 18G will not be as laggy as a 20G, but I can't give you any numbers.

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Whatever boost level causes the shaft to spin too fast, which is again in itself, subjective depending on how the engine flows air.

eg: A big-cam long-rod G4CS 2.4L will overspeed it at a much lower gauge pressure than a stock 2G 2.0L.

So in a nutshell, if you're logging 43+ lbs/min on that compressor and it's not really cold outside, you're probably getting pretty close.
 
Justin,

I am beginning to set up my Hx35's oil drain and wanted to give the heater connection way a shot. Before putting everything together I took some measurements and they seem a bit small. Could you verify that this size would be enough to properly drain a holset turbo, or would it be better to move to a true -12an SS line?


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Thanks in advance!
 

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Be careful that the fitting you're using doesn't put the drain too low to face the pan without kinking whatever hose you're using...that fitting is awfully long.

I'd say that 15mm is a little on the small side....if you can bore the I.D. of that out to around 17-18mm you'll be fine.
 
Ill just swap over to an -12an fitting. none of my dremel bits will fit in the drain LOL. I figured it was a bit on the small side. The fitting being so long was my original concern as well, but I have no way to actually find out until I get a turbine housing and manifold. Thank you though
 
Be careful that the fitting you're using doesn't put the drain too low to face the pan without kinking whatever hose you're using...that fitting is awfully long.

I'd say that 15mm is a little on the small side....if you can bore the I.D. of that out to around 17-18mm you'll be fine.

That fitting is pretty long, betting it wont work its so long honestly. :hmm:


I did mine with a stock holset drain and cut the ribbs off and slipped a hose over it then used a pushlock fitting for the pan, seems to work so far, i will be double checking the pressure when i get my turbo back from justin. ;)
 
Whatever boost level causes the shaft to spin too fast, which is again in itself, subjective depending on how the engine flows air.

eg: A big-cam long-rod G4CS 2.4L will overspeed it at a much lower gauge pressure than a stock 2G 2.0L.

So in a nutshell, if you're logging 43+ lbs/min on that compressor and it's not really cold outside, you're probably getting pretty close.

Ok well my question was really aimed at Justin, but it's a 2.0 with 9:1 CR pistons. I do log a few spikes of 45 lbs per minute somewhere around the top of second gear, but for the most part it levels out around 39 lbs per minute most of the time. That's in August, with 84 degree intake temps.

Am I going to have to start rebuilding my turbo frequently at these levels, or worse?
 
It's not that I don't trust your opinion, but the name of the thread is "Questions for Justin" who in a recent thread just said:
That's WAY too much boost for a 16G/18G. You'll be dealing with some serious reliability issues with boost that high over an extended period of time. Plan on backing off the boost a little and making your power with better tuning / more aggressive timing.
in reference to someone wanting to "push it to 28-32 pounds of boost". That's why I asked what is a safe boost level since I'm running about 30psi as well.
 
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It's not that I don't trust your opinion, but the name of the thread is "Questions for Justin" who in a recent thread just said:

in reference to someone wanting to "push it to 28-32 pounds of boost". That's why I asked what is a safe boost level since I'm running about 30psi as well.

FP said once on here that they run 16gs as much as, they will boost. They boosted to 37psi and leveled out around 29. Given where they leveled out id say 30_32 psi is on the verge of unsafe levels.

In a nutshell what delta is saying is simply that mass air per psi is diff per engine. A destroked long rod engine will run more shaft speed per psi than a regular 2.0. As you should know boost is simply a log of back pressure. So in nutshell shaft speed per psi is a variant of the overall effiency of your engine. so the more efficient the engine the faster shaft speeds will be per psi.

I apologize if my name isn't justin, just giving alil info I thought could help.
 
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