The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Questions for Justin...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

The billet wheels are just made from billet right?

Or are they perhaps lighter than the mhi wheels..SO i guess my question is a billet wheel an upgrade or just something shiny?

One more..A manifold spacer,Good idea, or have you even ever heard of it?
 
The billet wheels are just made from billet right?
Correct- a more dense and machinable alloy.
Or are they perhaps lighter than the mhi wheels..SO i guess my question is a billet wheel an upgrade or just something shiny?
Billet is more dense (heavier with less air pockets) than cast. Plenty of information on this well-discussed topic here:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/425629-billet-compressor-wheels.html

One more..A manifold spacer,Good idea, or have you even ever heard of it?
Not sure what you're talking about. Most spacers are used only because they're a fitment necessity.
 
I thought perhapps it may be a good idea to bring everything out a tad more..It makes sense to me right now as i'm writing this..

I should probably say why..Well my theory was to add what the spacer is, that brings the manifold and turbo out a tad smidge..Keeping the same exhaust.It would come down better for the DP..More room to work as well..I know its not much but, sometimes that litte bit helps..

If its just a retarded idea to you,I'll scrap the idea all together.I just thought more room, ya know.
 
7-blade cast....4035879.


Billet would look like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



...or this:

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
What do you know about HX30's? I am about to start a blow through turbo Geo Metro project and this turbo might be something I am interested in. I have an end goal of 300whp with this thing, but it may have to be pushed pretty far to get there. I was thinking something in the 50trim type range, but I am sure if I look around enough, I can find an affordable HX30 out there that I can use. The Geo is the 60ci 3 cylinder motor. So it will have a hard time spooling anything, but I want to make sure I can reach my end goals with the right turbo the first time.

I just don't think any of the H1C, H1E, HX35 options will be realistic because of how small the engine is. It is a terrible head and cam design and only has six valves.

What do you think? Any idea where to pick one up? Goldfarb maybe? I have not called, but we have bought five HX52's there and an HX40.
 
7-blade cast....4035879.


Billet would look like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



...or this:

attachment.php

attachment.php

I had my heart set on the billet wheel but, i will be running the turbo on my 2.3 stroker setup so the question is will i notice any difference in spool time betwee the cast and billet wheels?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I did a boost leak test at the turbo, and i have a crazy amount of blow by. I did it at the throttle body elbow and no blow by. I know it is because of my turbo, would it be the seals (piston ring look alikes), or could there be another seal. I have little shaft play and do plan on rebuilding. Also if you could tell me the shaft diameter of a small 16g, and if the bearing are suppose to be the same size or different size?
 
So since i already have a hx40 with a cast 7 blade wheel you're saying i should run it instead of swapping it out for a billet wheel? There wont be a noticeable enough difference to even bother?
Correct. Holset never designed the billet wheel to be more efficient....just more durable.

Is there any added lag or anything associated with the 17 psi fp WG?

Or will it just open fully later is all?
How the hell would a stronger actuator make a turbo more laggy? :p

Also, I'm fairly certain these pressure specs are taken as the cracking pressure of the actuator with no flapper attached. There is no "constant" when it comes to wastegate pressures with internal gates- turbine backpressure, flapper size, turbine housing porting, and actuator lever angle all effect how strongly an actuator will hold the flapper shut. Take a 17psi actuator and put it on a turbo with a ported turbine housing and 34mm flapper and it may open as early as 11-12psi.

Another factor is you want the actuator to be as straight as possible in correlation to the flapper lever on the housing. The more bends there are in the actuator arm, the less tension it will hold as the bends in the arm tend to add a degree of "flex" to the actuator system.

I did a boost leak test at the turbo, and i have a crazy amount of blow by. I did it at the throttle body elbow and no blow by. I know it is because of my turbo, would it be the seals (piston ring look alikes), or could there be another seal. I have little shaft play and do plan on rebuilding. Also if you could tell me the shaft diameter of a small 16g, and if the bearing are suppose to be the same size or different size?
If there's shaft play, it's most-likely the turbo.

Shaft diameter should be 9mm.
 
hey justin, I notice that Holset manual says to align the thrust collar with turbine shaft. Is this crucial? My rebuild kit came with a new collar and obviously will not have a balance mark. I cant see how this can affect the balance since this looks perfectly machined.
 
Not at all. It's more-crucial on smaller turbos that are subject to stackup unbalance, but honestly it's such a small amount that it doesn't make much of a difference....not to mention it's damn-near impossible to keep the thrust collar and compressor seal collar aligned inside the housing while assembling the turbo.
 
I thought I would keep you informed..So my battery is the problem, it doesnt have enough juice to start the car under 32 degreez.

I hook up jumper cables, and the starter and engine turn twice as fast upon startup..Time for a new menards 700 cca battery..Yeah buddy..Possibly with relocation and battery cut off too, i'm not sure..
 
Although you are correct- the TD05H center housing has a very light thirst for oil, and can easily be overoiled if you're not careful. If you suspect oil pressures to be too high, you'll want to use a restrictor in the oil feed line.

I would recommend a .0625" (1/16") restrictor for such excessive pressure.

After building a nice -4an feedline with a 1/16" restrictor (smallest drill bit I could find) and an integrated oil psi sender, I am seeing about about 50-60 psi at wot on my 14b. Do you think this is too much Justin?
 
Last edited:
I thought I would keep you informed..So my battery is the problem, it doesnt have enough juice to start the car under 32 degreez.

I hook up jumper cables, and the starter and engine turn twice as fast upon startup..Time for a new menards 700 cca battery..Yeah buddy..Possibly with relocation and battery cut off too, i'm not sure..

It's 40 degreez..She started right up today...And that turbo wants to thank you for its new home..
 
After building a nice -4an feedline with a 1/16" restrictor (smallest drill bit I could find) and an integrated oil psi sender, I am seeing about about 50-60 psi at wot on my 14b. Do you think this is too much Justin?
Nope- that pressure from a restricted source should be just fine as long as your drain is ample and straight. :thumb:

It's 40 degreez..She started right up today...And that turbo wants to thank you for its new home..
Our super-cold days last week was almost more than my GS's battery could handle....although I drive that car about 3 miles to work and back each day, and unless I go anywhere else that's all it gets. The trip home is even at night, so the lights and heater are on. In my mind the battery just isn't getting charged enough.
 
another question for you justin. I have a evo 3 16g with the wastegate welded shut. I dont wantto run an external wastegate. I have a small 16g turbine housing, I was wondering if it will fit and if i will lose alot of effientcy.
 
Is there a certain brand or aftermarket Hx35 TS gasket to run? Or should I go with a standard parts store unit?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top