Questions for Justin...

[delta448]

Forgive me for intruding again, but if it's well oiled and well cooled, a MHI turbo will take a royal ass kicking and laugh at you.

I'm not saying there's impending doom, but at that flow level it's time to start thinking about whether you're trying to break a record or would rather upgrade to something that will actually be much more efficient at that flow level.

How long before it breaks? Nobody can guess. It may work fine for 100k or it may develop problems in minutes. Again, the biggest concern is oiling and cooling.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

I see. Well I guess I'll just continue to have fun with it, and check for shaft play frequently. If a wheel explodes I'll have to look into an upgrade. The FP 68HTA™ sounds really nice, and I believe I could still retain my A/C, P/S, and humongous radiator..

Since last summer I have been using a CMGS display as my only boost gauge, and it only reads up to 30psi. Since it tends to display 30psi up until the turbo runs out of steam, actual boost levels may be well in excess of 30psi. Honestly when I run 112, I crank the boost controller down till it wont turn any further. The only way I could run more boost is if I were to strap the wastegate shut .

My god, I sound like one of those newbies who's about to blow his car up and ask why.

Forgive me for intruding again, but if it's well oiled and well cooled, a MHI turbo will take a royal ass kicking and laugh at you.

I'm not saying there's impending doom, but at that flow level it's time to start thinking about whether you're trying to break a record or would rather upgrade to something that will actually be much more efficient at that flow level.

How long before it breaks? Nobody can guess. It may work fine for 100k or it may develop problems in minutes. Again, the biggest concern is oiling and cooling.

I do at least have good oil pressure, and the coolant lines hooked up.

Ps. I didn't mean any disrespect, your input is welcome.

 

[90moneypit]

Here's a question for Justin. I haven't heard anything about the Tim's turbos T3 housing on here. If it's been covered I apologize. So for the question: I have a 4g63 .010 over with CP forged 9:1, Eagle rods, Cometic tri HG, and ARP's holding it together from head to main caps. 255 with re-wire for the 1050cc injectors. Ran E85 before but I'm in a 'dry state' now. Link 2.5 (may have to go to V3 to do things right) and I started off with a E316 ported and drop shipped from FP but it's... well we won't go there. My goal is 5-600awhp on pump 92 and I'd like to know how small a check I'm going to have to write to you for the right turbo and housing. I'm looking at either a cast HAFE if I go T3/T4 and deal with routing the WG into a fabbed downpipe (Why hasn't someone come up with an adapter DP yet?!?) or can I get there with a FP manifold, BEP, and a WG off the O2? Predominantly street but I DO want the ability to wipe the smile off of most people's faces in a straight line. FWIW, I drive past roughly a million dollars worth of super-car by the second week of each month... and they drive 10mph under the speed limit until 'someone' tries to pass them. If I don't pull the trigger and finish the GSX, I'll end up buying a Nova or Chevelle in the next month with a big bottle of giggle juice and write off the last 5 years as 4cyl envy.

 

[JusMX141]

Am I going to have to start rebuilding my turbo frequently at these levels, or worse?

Any time you see airflow taper off sharply or IAT's climb drastically with added boost, it's pretty safe to say you're at the end of the compressor map. For a Small 16G this will be around 22psi; maybe around 25-26psi for an Evo III 16G depending on supporting mods.

When you overboost a turbo without gaining airflow, you're overheating the intake temps and increasing thrust loads to ridiculous levels. The heavier the compressor wheel the more thrust load there will be at any given boost level....a 16G will have a lower thrust load at 28psi than a 20G, etc. This is where aftermarket coated thrust plates with more oiling holes become a necessity on larger turbos.

You can run as much boost as your turbo can safely handle. This depends on your goals- if you're going for a record of some sort, you can just weld the wastegate shut and give it hell as protecting the turbo really isn't a concern. For a street car, once the thrust load exceeds the capability of what the factory thrust hardware can handle, you'll know....the turbo will develop in/out shaft play pretty rapidly.

Here's a question for Justin. I haven't heard anything about the Tim's turbos T3 housing on here.

Are you talking for a Holset or another brand? I had a bad experience with one of Tim's HX35 housings- quite restrictive despite being advertised as .63 a/r.

 

[RadDsm]

Thank you for the info on the BEP 50 trim, I ended up getting it for $250. I know it needs to be fed from the filter housing, would you recommend a restrictor for a 6 bolt with no balance shafts and stock OFH? If so, which size?

I also planned on using a braided -10 drain line.

Thank you again for the help.

 

[Bouche Dag]

Jus, question for you regarding BOVs if you can help. My Greddy Type S was fluttering pretty bad with the "lower nipple" disconnected and at 20 psi it was leaking with it connected.

I decided to do the single spring mod and I was just wondering what the BOV should open at under vacuum. With my mity-vac it opens at about 15-16 in. hg. and I'm just worried that's too soft and that it's going to be open at idle. Any idea what I should shoot for as far as vacuum for when it cracks open?

 

[JusMX141]

Thank you for the info on the BEP 50 trim, I ended up getting it for $250. I know it needs to be fed from the filter housing, would you recommend a restrictor for a 6 bolt with no balance shafts and stock OFH? If so, which size?

I also planned on using a braided -10 drain line.

Thank you again for the help.

Depends on your oil pressure- peak pressure entering the turbo should be 65-70psi.

Jus, question for you regarding BOVs if you can help. My Greddy Type S was fluttering pretty bad with the "lower nipple" disconnected and at 20 psi it was leaking with it connected.

I decided to do the single spring mod and I was just wondering what the BOV should open at under vacuum. With my mity-vac it opens at about 15-16 in. hg. and I'm just worried that's too soft and that it's going to be open at idle. Any idea what I should shoot for as far as vacuum for when it cracks open?

The "single-spring mod" isn't a "mod" at all- it's a necessity. I don't know why the manufacturer feels such stiff springs are needed...it's not a wastegate.

With the quick-release (lower nipple) disconnected you're relying on vacuum alone to draw the valve open once the throttle plate closes. A properly-designed valve won't care what the spring tension is as the spring only controls the valve's action under vacuum. Under boost, the air in the upper chamber is at a 1:1 ratio as the air pressure in the piping. As long as volume in the upper chamber is larger than the surface area of the piston, it's physically impossible for the valve to open until there's vacuum.

Look at the 1G valve which, from the factory, has a quick-release feature built-in. Many guys will crush the valve to make it hold more boost, but all this is doing is raising the spring pressure but doing nothing to the quick-release function. It's a band-aid, more or less. The proper way to improve a 1G valve is to do the Dodge Garage Mod and disable the quick release feature....making the amount of boost it will hold endless until the diaphragm blows out.

 

[JayB12]

Hey, I have a dumb question. I recently installed an HX35 on my 1g and the turbo came with a flange on the feed side and a -4an adapter for the feed line. It turns out that either the flange or adapters threads are stripped. Where can I get new ones that will fit?

I can find this flange (idk if it even will work or not) but no fitting and I would prefer to order them both from the same place.
STM: VIBRANT 1/8" OIL INLET FITTING | 070-S705-25

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Hey justin i got a question. I just bought a bep.70 ar vband outlet housing. But from the pix the side to the chra is a 4 bolt. Will my 6 or 7 bolt half moon clips still work for this? Or should it come with proper clips? I'm stoked to finally be running with the big dawgs in the hx40 class. I'm in the middle of fabbing a t3 RAM horn manifold for the hx40.
Ironic manifold eh? ^_^

 

[JusMX141]

Hey, I have a dumb question. I recently installed an HX35 on my 1g and the turbo came with a flange on the feed side and a -4an adapter for the feed line. It turns out that either the flange or adapters threads are stripped. Where can I get new ones that will fit?

Isn't the oil inlet threaded on your turbo's CHRA? It should be....12mm x 1.5. In that case you'd just buy the correct fitting and thread it into the CHRA.

Hey justin i got a question. I just bought a bep.70 ar vband outlet housing. But from the pix the side to the chra is a 4 bolt. Will my 6 or 7 bolt half moon clips still work for this? Or should it come with proper clips?

It should come with the hold-down clamps. If it doesn't, ask the seller to refund you $20 so you can buy them from Bullseye. No other hold-down clamp will work.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I got it from extreme psi, we will see, but my .55 ar didn't come with it.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Okay. I am buying a built engine, and a new turbo. I have a chance to get this turbo for a pretty good price. It is rebuilt, with zero miles on it since rebuild. The guy said its a turbonetics hi fi 60-1. I have read what I can about it online, but here isn't much on them. I'm not looking for huge numbers but I'm wanting a pretty strong daily driver. Could you tell me a little about this turbo, like what mani it bolts too, if its good street turbo, how well it spools etc...

Thanks in advance

Oh, and do all turbos use a wastegate actuator. They guy has said nothing about one, so I'm just curious. Oh, and does this turbo require coolant and oil, or just oil?

 

[gsxnate99]

Just picked up an 8 blade hx35 for my auto 2g today. Question is should I go with the BEP .55 A/R housing or wait for when FP releases there .69 A/R housing? I have read that the .55 housing will flow to the potential of the turbo and I know the the .55 housing would spool quicker which appeals to me because its going in a built auto car with a stall, but still wondering if the .69 housing would bare any other benefits. Its going to be an evo piston motor with all supporting mods, comp 101200 cams. Looking to run 23-25 psi

 

[JusMX141]

Okay. I am buying a built engine, and a new turbo. I have a chance to get this turbo for a pretty good price. It is rebuilt, with zero miles on it since rebuild. The guy said its a turbonetics hi fi 60-1. I have read what I can about it online, but here isn't much on them. I'm not looking for huge numbers but I'm wanting a pretty strong daily driver. Could you tell me a little about this turbo, like what mani it bolts too, if its good street turbo, how well it spools etc...

Thanks in advance

A 60-1 is a 60-1...doesn't matter who built it. Search around the site for results from 60-1 users....unfortunately I can't predict spool or horsepower with any accuracy as every car/setup is completely different- no two are alike.

Last Turbonetics 60-1 I used lasted a whopping 150 miles from new before it blew- it was bought second hand so I didn't have a leg to stand on and lost 100% of the purchase price. An eBay turbo would've lasted longer and cost less when/if it failed....not that I condone the use of eBay turbos.

Oh, and do all turbos use a wastegate actuator. They guy has said nothing about one, so I'm just curious. Oh, and does this turbo require coolant and oil, or just oil?

If there's no actuator included, ask the seller if the turbo's set up to be internally-gated or not. Also, I can't tell if coolant is required from the one photo you provided.

Just picked up an 8 blade hx35 for my auto 2g today. Question is should I go with the BEP .55 A/R housing or wait for when FP releases there .69 A/R housing? I have read that the .55 housing will flow to the potential of the turbo and I know the the .55 housing would spool quicker which appeals to me because its going in a built auto car with a stall, but still wondering if the .69 housing would bare any other benefits. Its going to be an evo piston motor with all supporting mods, comp 101200 cams. Looking to run 23-25 psi

For boost that low, you'll be fine with the .55 housing. If you weren't auto or you wanted to run 30+psi I'd recommend the larger housing.

 

[razza]

Hi Justin and everyone,
I have an old photo on my computer of an exhaust housing. I seem to recall it is to suit a GT35R cartridge and was possibly made by Forced Performance. Can anyone confirm any details about. Sorry for the bad photo.

Cheers all!!
Ryan

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[JusMX141]

Definitely an old FP housing....could be cut for a T3 (T31/T350) or GT (30R/35R). Couldn't possibly tell what it fits without plenty of measurements.

 

[NHerron]

I have read that the .55 housing will flow to the potential of the turbo (hx35) ...

Hey Justin I've always read to get FULL potential (and for best spool considering the intended airflow) you'd run the stock twinscroll Holset housing, and the .55 is restrictive to hinder performance enough it's not much better than for example the 20g. On the other hand the hx40 will flow plenty with the .55, although not best spool. Is this pretty much correct for a basic overview?

Ill be building again in the summer this time with the 7 blade 35 and been reading off and on for months, guess I'm just making sure. Thanks. Oh this will be a M/T application however.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Well, thanks for nothing.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

He'll get there, don't be a douche.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

That's not what I'm a little pissed about. He already got to mine, he just told me absolutely nothing helpful. "The last turbonetics 60-1 I used lasted a whopping 150 miles," that on top of telling me to use the search didn't do much for me.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Turbonetics has been known to be similar to pte i think. If you know what i mean.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

That's not what I'm a little pissed about. He already got to mine, he just told me absolutely nothing helpful. "The last turbonetics 60-1 I used lasted a whopping 150 miles," that on top of telling me to use the search didn't do much for me.

Well obviously you want your hand held. With a simple search on just google you could find most of that extremely basic info for yourself.

It seems you need to do some more research yourself since you dont even know if a turbo needs a wastegate.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Man zenkai, your a lot of help on this thread.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

KCz, http://www.turboneticsinc.com/60series_turbochargers.

I can see the internal flapper arm in the photo so at some point it was internally gated, so if its still setup that way your missing the actuator.

It would be a decent street turbo but there are better. Your looking around 4500 rpms for full spool. +-200.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Thanks MJcanada for the helpful post. Seriously. What would be a good turbo for the streets that is still good for some high numbers.