Questions for Justin...

[Miasma]

Are any parts between hx35 and 40 interchangeable? Compressor and turbine shaft? Sorry if been asked before

 

[Jon Lane]

Justin, have you ever analyzed the BW S256 NET, here?

 

[JusMX141]

Are any parts between hx35 and 40 interchangeable? Compressor and turbine shaft? Sorry if been asked before

Yes; but the compressor must fit both the cover and the center housing...you can't drop a 60/86 HX40 wheel in place of a 54/78 wheel on a HX35.

Justin, have you ever analyzed the BW S256 NET, here?

Zero personal experience with BW turbos, although the compressor spec is similar to a HX35.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

how many psi was dave running to break into the 9s? i wanna plan my boost around a 9.9 slip in relation to dave. goal for this summer: get kicked off the track for running low 10s or high 9.9 with no cage

 

[JusMX141]

38psi. It's mentioned in one of his threads, not sure which one. Would've been higher but that's all the 1200's would allow.

By the way, tracks that play by the rules will throw you off at 11.49 or faster with no cage.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

38psi. It's mentioned in one of his threads, not sure which one. Would've been higher but that's all the 1200's would allow.

By the way, tracks that play by the rules will throw you off at 11.49 or faster with no cage.

1200s, what was the duty cycle on that. im gonna try and take my 1000s as far as possible this summer, maybe i wont hit 9s

i have yet to run the 1/4 mile so who knows, ive never ran an 11.49. i have ran the 8th though a few times with 1.7 60' at 22psi on the .55AR . i have no dial in time so my first run is a test and tune and i hope that breaks low 10s out of the trailer. Then i get kicked off. ill tune for 35psi and see where the IDCs are at and just hope for the best. i think im at 88.3% IDC at 28psi

 

[JusMX141]

You'll never go that far with 1000's unless the car weighs 2000lbs....that's barely enough fuel to max out a HX35.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You'll never go that far with 1000's unless the car weighs 2000lbs....that's barely enough fuel to max out a HX35.

ill figure something out, i havent rewired my pump yet, but damn oh well, i know they'll be good for at least a 10.5. ill be gettin losts more flow with the .70AR at lower boost so they will prob max out the IDC sooner. something tells me its not safe to run a 95% IDC consistantly

 

[phunny]

So Justin, I'm at a crossroads of sorts. My goal is a 9 second street car and I had decided that instead of a larger turbo I would drop weight, so i purchased CF doors, hood, hatch blah blah blah. But I have now decided that I am going to a larger turbo for 2 reasons, 1. It will be easier and 2. It should really help with my IAT's at the end of a run.

I'm really looking at FP's 3586 because it would be an easy swap and some have made over 800awhp. What are you thoughts/opinions and is there anything else I would need to bolt this on at the top of your head?

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Power vs. weight will only get you the trap speed to go 9s

Actually getting down the 1320 in <9.99 is on driver/chassis/suspension/tire and nothing breaking

 

[JusMX141]

So Justin, I'm at a crossroads of sorts. My goal is a 9 second street car and I had decided that instead of a larger turbo I would drop weight, so i purchased CF doors, hood, hatch blah blah blah. But I have now decided that I am going to a larger turbo for 2 reasons, 1. It will be easier and 2. It should really help with my IAT's at the end of a run.

I'm really looking at FP's 3586 because it would be an easy swap and some have made over 800awhp. What are you thoughts/opinions and is there anything else I would need to bolt this on at the top of your head?

Your car being close to full-weight isn't going to be easy to get into the 9's but it's definitely possible.

The key thing to keep in mind here in regards to the weight is that you're going to need more horsepower than your average 9-second car in order to actually reach the 9's....so you can't necessarily adapt other's drag results with the 3586 to your application. I'm not concerned, however- your setup seems to make awesome power with it's current setup....even posting numbers above what many Red / 60-1 users have experienced throughout the years.

Do I think the 3586 will get you into the 9's? Absolutely. You're already at mid-10's with an old DSM bolt-on Red which is remarkable for such a turbo. By switching to the T3 flange and 35R turbine you'll have lower EGT's, lower intake air temps, and be able to run more boost.

Of all the options, the 3586 is your best bet. The 3794 is a MEAN turbo but is probably a bit overkill for your goal, not to mention a great deal laggier than the 3586.

 

[phunny]

Justin, the 3586 won't be on a T3 for at least this years season, it'll be on a stock flange. I thought this would be cheaper and quicker spool. I'm already well past my car funds for this year :/ but I am working on dropping 500lbs for the shootout, mainly for the sake of my drivetrain.


Landspeed, I believe I have every other a covered, except the driver mod, and for that I have a magnus launch control device.

 

[JusMX141]

Even by using a bolt-on 3586, the turbine housing is still a confirmed .69 a/r which is a major upgrade to the 7cm/8cm factory Mitsu housing.

Or what about staying with the Red for now? By dropping 500lbs you can potentially put yourself in a very good position to go 9's with the old-school Red given your previous accomplishments although it probably wouldn't happen without a 1.5 60-ft and some really good tires which increases your chance of breaking something in the driveline. I don't know exactly what is the fastest FP Red out there but you have to be close.

 

[phunny]

Even by using a bolt-on 3586, the turbine housing is still a confirmed .69 a/r which is a major upgrade to the 7cm/8cm factory Mitsu housing.

Or what about staying with the Red for now? By dropping 500lbs you can potentially put yourself in a very good position to go 9's with the old-school Red given your previous accomplishments although it probably wouldn't happen without a 1.5 60-ft and some really good tires which increases your chance of breaking something in the driveline. I don't know exactly what is the fastest FP Red out there but you have to be close.

That was the original plan, especially now that I can run the Stock Appearing Class at the shootout .

 

[Archer Fabrications]

How so? Red isnt stock appearing is it though? What dsm or evo came with a 20g? With that large of a compressor housing?

 

[phunny]

How so? Red isnt stock appearing is it though? What dsm or evo came with a 20g? With that large of a compressor housing?

This is from Dave

Originally Posted by Nate Crisman
yup, and when you combine that power level with a 2400lb gutted 1G AWD with the Automagic trans, it wouldn't surprise me to see the "stock turbo" winning car running faster than the entire DS Eliminator class and able to qualify for Q16.Granted, Im not going to build a car specifically to exploit the rules for one single race event, but the potential is obviously there. Billet 16g's were allowed at last years "tin can-stock turbo" class, so I can't see why the FPblack wouldn't.

Rules seem clear to me but I wrote them. ANY Mitsubishi STOCK APPEARING turbo that came on a 1g, 2g or EVO is legal for the Stock Appearing Turbo DSM class. So yes, FP Red's and Blacks for the EVO can be used on the DSM.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Yeah i read that thread, but like i said, the red isnt in any housing that looks stock appearing on any of those cars. Its a 3" inlet for god sake.

 

[phunny]

Yeah i read that thread, but like i said, the red isnt in any housing that looks stock appearing on any of those cars. Its a 3" inlet for god sake.

I hear ya but I don't make the rules

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Id be in a different class anywho with the hx40 .

 

[bradikus7]

I've got a question for Justin. Did you look for those clamps and bolts?

 

[CrackedDSM]

So you mentioned running an anti-surge compressor cover on a 20G robs efficiency for surge protection, how drastic of a difference is this? I want 20G power, but if an anti-surge cover is going to hurt me that much....basically, what would you run? Deal with surge, or sacrifice a little bit for surge protection? What exactly are the effects you are referring to of robbing efficiency. Higher IAT temps? Much less power made on the same boost level?



Thanks for any/all help.

 

[JusMX141]

Peak airflow production is hurt, but nobody knows how much. The idea of the MWE groove is to allow a slight amount of air to "leak" back through the housing and around the compressor wheel. You know it's doing it's job because the blow off valve on a car with a surge-protected turbo is much quieter than that of a turbo without surge ports. Obviously you can't turn this bypass off and on, so under load a certain amount of airflow will always be recirculated- no avoiding that.

These ported 20G covers are new to the market so I've yet to see hard evidence of exactly how much it hurts- could be in the 1-2 lb/min range, but who knows? If you're surging, I'd rather see you swap to a larger turbine wheel or housing a/r to slow spool down and ease backpressure a bit then go from there. It makes more sense to keep compressor flow up and make better use of the energy it's giving you instead of using a surge-ported cover to solve such a problem.

The reason you've never seen these covers in production from Mitsubishi is:

- The TD06 20G is originally a diesel turbo with a boost level well within the surge line on the compressor map.

- The 20G compressor was not originally intended for use on a high-boost gasoline application with a TD05H turbine and small a/r (cm2) turbine housing.

Gasoline exhaust has a lot of energy, and lately our tuning advancements have been allowing more and more boost to be run....so channeling that energy into a small a/r housing with a tiny turbine wheel means the compressor will start making boost a lot earlier than intended which is what leads to surge either at the onset of boost or at full-throttle.

 

[Devilsfutbol17]

Justin, I'm looking at buying this HX40, but the seller doesn't seem to know much about it. It appears to be a 7 blade, meaning a 60mm inducer I think? The compressor cover inlet looks like nothing I have seen before. It looks like there is a large o -ring around the inlet?

I'm just trying to get a 6 or 7 blade 60mm HX40 and this one looks good to me. Does anything look odd to you about it?

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[RadDsm]

Hi Justin, I have a question about turbine housings for a p-trim wheel. Are there any bolt on housings available that for the p-trim wheel, or some that can be machined to accept the wheel? This is on a BEP 50 trim with a bad turbine housing. Maybe something like an FP30/35 or even a 7cm housing?

 

[TJCTalon]

Do you have the tools to see if a turbine shaft is bent?