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Questions for Justin...

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Justin, I'm looking at buying this HX40, but the seller doesn't seem to know much about it. It appears to be a 7 blade, meaning a 60mm inducer I think? The compressor cover inlet looks like nothing I have seen before. It looks like there is a large o -ring around the inlet?

I'm just trying to get a 6 or 7 blade 60mm HX40 and this one looks good to me. Does anything look odd to you about it?
Looks fine to me- 7-blade 60mm, likely a billet compressor on a 10-blade 76/64 turbine since it's a Volvo turbo. :thumb:

Hi Justin, I have a question about turbine housings for a p-trim wheel. Are there any bolt on housings available that for the p-trim wheel, or some that can be machined to accept the wheel? This is on a BEP 50 trim with a bad turbine housing. Maybe something like an FP30/35 or even a 7cm housing?
Bullseye once had them- you may want to get in touch with Wild Bill and see if they have any old stock...but that's about it unfortunately.
Do you have the tools to see if a turbine shaft is bent?
Sure do. :D
 
Yesterday I was messing around and I only got 14 psi @2300 rpm.Then the brakes pretty much failed at that point.

Does that sound legit?

I need more braking, cause that was with the ebrake.
 
Bud, are you engaging the clutch and just ripping up on the ebrake as you give it gas to build boost off the line?

Doing it like that's going to burn the shit out of your clutch unless you've got a twin disk installed, you need to get a two-step for launch control. ECMLink, WOT Box, or a burned EPROM chip are a few things that come to mind but even the cost of Link v3 is about the same cost as a new decent clutch setup.

Hopefully your car's an A/T.

:dsm:
 
Corey you have not looked at my slim profile mods in a while.It's cool tho.

I'm an auto.I'm holding my 200 lb framed leg on the brake, hand holding the ebrake, so i can let it rip and launch.

My 2 step somehow got set to 4k.I need to get my eprom re burnt for this season.I hope it can be set lower.I think if my 2 step was set to 2300k or so.I could probably get a better launch and not put so much stress on the brakes.
 
I see, well that's good news. Now that I look a bit closer at your mod list I see there's a A/T shiftbox under the drivetrain section. ;)

Glad to hear you weren't doing that on a 5-speed!

:dsm:
 
I know this is a "Ask Jus thread" but while I'm in here, you get more RPM doing torque converter mods on an A/T. Doing them without getting a A/T cooler is a bad idea though...

:dsm:
 
I know this is a "Ask Jus thread" but while I'm in here, you get more RPM doing torque converter mods on an A/T.

:dsm:

That was soo not the answer I wanted. Although I knew that was gonna be brought up.;(

I'd love a new stalled converter but, BUDGET.

No trans cooler yes.But I dont know if you knew this or not, but having full line pressure and a shift box, makes the trans shift hard and reallyfast.Essentially cooling the trans itself, because it dont have to work harder making thr soft, smoothe shifts.Ive never had the hot trans temp gauge on my thingy lite up before.Ive had the shift box for 3 years or more now.

I need the cooler I know.I'm getting more nylon hose.So that might be a summer mod yet to happen.

And I'm sure JUS don't mind you helping my dumbass out.;)
 
I started life as an A/T DSMer but I wasn't making more than stock hp/tq numbers so mods to build the auto trans were nothing I researched. I didn't realize that full line pressure helped cool the trans but that's only while it's shifting, while you're at the tree stalling up the torque converter that REALLY heats up the transmission fluid.

:dsm:
 
Dammit..There always some kind of thing I forget in my logic.

Like while sitting stalling.The trans is heating.:banghead:


I'm an auto guy at heart.I don't much like using a clutch.Call me weird, but Ive been called worse allready today.
 
Well I do have an udate on my sitiation.My new chip with 5 new 2 step settings on its way tomarrow.

14 psi @2300,F that.Add 2 step @ 2300, I'm gonna try getting more on stall up.
 
Justin. I just received a T25/T28 turbo installation kit from an ebay seller. Im looking at the oil feed line and I am not sure if I will be supplying enough oil using the supplied fittings. Can you tell me wether or not it is okay to use the fittings pictured here.
 

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Thanks justin. And Ive read a few articles about garrett turbos and the drain lines. Is there a such thing as a drain that is too big?
 
Okay, I was thinking of something to ease the install for next time on the T28, the Factory drain was pretty tough to get on. I'd rather a SS line with fittings
 
just picked up a used PTE 50 trim (unsure of exact model) but im trying to figure out what i need to feed this bad boy oil

is this the correct part i need to feed it

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22199&cat=0&page=1

i can either run from the head or OFH whichever you think is better just trying to order all my parts at once

or should i use these?

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=19248&cat=0&page=1

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20712&cat=0&page=1
 
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Hey Justin. I'm putting together another compound setup. Goal is a small 16g or 14b with an hx40. Would you recommend a six blade hx40 or maybe a batmowheel setup? I'm having a hard time finding anything but 8 blade 40s. Even goldfarb hasn't been much help.
 
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