Questions for Justin...

[JusMX141]

That's not what I'm a little pissed about. He already got to mine, he just told me absolutely nothing helpful. "The last turbonetics 60-1 I used lasted a whopping 150 miles," that on top of telling me to use the search didn't do much for me.

I'm not here to build your setup or guess what spool / horsepower range it will generate. TECHNICAL questions are what I answer- your most-technical question was in regards to the wastegate, which I can't even begin to guess on from the one photos you've shown me of the compressor cover.

I can see the internal flapper arm in the photo so at some point it was internally gated, so if its still setup that way your missing the actuator.

Correct- but it could be welded shut....in which case he'd be forced to run an external gate off the manifold. A question which would easily be answered with more photos.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

I never asked about horsepower. I know better than to ask about that. I've decided not t buy that turbo anyway, the person is being flakey. I'm now trying to find a turbo capable of numbers in the 350-450 horsepower range. We are in the process of building our own engine instead of buying one already built.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I never asked about horsepower. I know better than to ask about that. I've decided not t buy that turbo anyway, the person is being flakey. I'm now trying to find a turbo capable of numbers in the 350-450 horsepower range. We are in the process of building our own engine instead of buying one already built.

16g hotside and 20g compressor side. Bastard 20g. Thats all you need for that hp range. Run around 23_25.

Start tuning at 16#s though and work up. Build with a 9.5:1 ratio for some extra kick, gas milage, response, & torque. And...well just research.

 

[JusMX141]

I'm now trying to find a turbo capable of numbers in the 350-450 horsepower range. We are in the process of building our own engine instead of buying one already built.

Now we're talking about a good technical discussion, and I'm fully on-board.

Get in your mind what boost level you'd like to run and what fuel you'd like to use to achieve your horsepower goal. When building your engine, you can either go low-compression if you're going to run pump gas or high-compression if E85 is available in your area.

Compression is a good deciding factor- you can't run high boost on a small turbo with a high compression ratio...the exhaust contains too much energy so the turbo will become a restriction, holding heat in the engine and causing tuning issues like incurable knock. Consequently, you shouldn't really plan to run a large turbo at a high boost level on a low-compression engine or you'll deal with more lag than necessary to achieve your modest horsepower goal.

If pump gas is what you want to run, I'd recommend a TD06 or 06H 20G (billet or cast depending on your budget) with a compression ratio in the 8.5:1 range, that of a stock 2G, and boost around 25-28psi. On a good tune with proper supporting mods, there's 380-400whp from an OEM-fitment turbo that is as reliable as gets.

If E85 is available, you can bump up the compression a bit to 9.0:1 and even go with a smaller TD05H turbine to gain some spool and driveability without worrying about knock because Ethanol is a much cooler-burning fuel than gasoline. Guys are doing amazing things with E85 and OEM-fitment turbos around the size of a 20G like the FP 68HTA.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

I do not plan on running e85. Not only will it hurt my gas mileage, but it is really not too common in the KC area. My engine is about to be taken to a local shop to be nicey built, instead of taking someones word for it. I will be tuning with DSMlink V3, and will have all the necessary supporting mods for a fast car. But I am wondering if a 20g will have a good top end. A local here at Modified by KC said to look into a 57 trim. I noticed that running my ebay 16g before it blew, the car ws really jumpy in the lower rpm range, an got boost pretty quick, but when I would hit about 50+ mph, the car would almot hit a wall. The acceleration was no longer impressive, but more embarassing. The local here said that a bigger turbo will give me a better high end, not sure if thats the right terminology. But is that true.

 

[JusMX141]

A local here at Modified by KC said to look into a 57 trim.

He must build a lot of Hondas. For a DSM they're a bad, bad idea. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/404033-garrett-57-trim-s.html

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I do not plan on running e85. Not only will it hurt my gas mileage, but it is really not too common in the KC area. My engine is about to be taken to a local shop to be nicey built, instead of taking someones word for it. I will be tuning with DSMlink V3, and will have all the necessary supporting mods for a fast car. But I am wondering if a 20g will have a good top end. A local here at Modified by KC said to look into a 57 trim. I noticed that running my ebay 16g before it blew, the car ws really jumpy in the lower rpm range, an got boost pretty quick, but when I would hit about 50+ mph, the car would almot hit a wall. The acceleration was no longer impressive, but more embarassing. The local here said that a bigger turbo will give me a better high end, not sure if thats the right terminology. But is that true.

Hope thats not the same shop building your engine. Like justin said, that turbo isn't any good for a dsm.

Also turbos are rpm based not speed based. 50+ sounds like third gear so your probably had boost leak issues that weren't as notable in first or second.

My 16g still runs off like nothing in third and fourth and even fifth at 90+, it just pulls. But its not your average 16g though, and its getting changed for a bigger 16g. Still my 14b pulled decent at the rpm/speed your mentioning. You deff had an issue.

 

[KCz Eclipse]

Yeah he does build a lot of hondas. Their shop race car is a civic. Heres a link to their website. MKCPerformance.com - A Kansas City Performance Automotive Shop » Home. They aren't building it. I'm taking my engine is at a little shop in overland park Engine Rebuilding-Performance Engines Race Engines Hot Rod Engines MO,KS,AR,IA,NE. MKC has the only awd dyno around here so it will get tuned and dynoed there, and built by the other guys. Ad yes I have a terrible boostleak, so yeah that probably had something to do with it.

 

[Talipse96]

I have a question and would like a little more direction. Currently I have a MHI big 16G with a tore up exhaust turbine. My plans before I found this were to get a 20G billet compressor wheel. I am looking for 400awhp or at least really close. At this point should I just go get a 20G or some 50 trim? Or would repairing mine still be the better route? Mine has minimal shaft play.

 

[SlowChild3]

I won a new holset H1E on eBay for 109$. Didn't expect to win but it made it to my door. I also have a WH1C. I'm wondering which one I should run or make a hybrid.
Have a 2.3 stroker with BC 280s fic 2150s 2 walbro 255. Twin scroll Manifold.


The wh1c:
compressor 80.5mm 55.88mm.
Turbine 69.2mm 59.9mm

The H1E:
Compressor 81.9 mm 50.038 mm
Turbine 76.07 mm 64mm
Thanks!

 

[sypherzero]

I recently purchased a SS oil feed line from the OFH for my T25 (I know...) from Extreme PSI. The 90* fitting they sent is 3/8" on the side that attaches to the OFH. Will this flow too much oil? And another question if you will, any idea what I can use to block off the stock feed port on the OFH? Thanks!

 

[DSM_prospecT]

Eclipse Tallon Evo 2g TDO5H 16g TURBO

What do you think of this? it looks pretty beat up and dirty.
Is it the real deal, and how much would it cost to rebuild this if I had to?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

depends on the condition of the turbo. Can't see any scrapes on the housing thats good. 200$is alil high if it needs rebuilding.

 

[DSM_prospecT]

depends on the condition of the turbo. Can't see any scrapes on the housing thats good. 200$is alil high if it needs rebuilding.

Someone from here offered me a rebuild for $165, is that a good price? I won't name, names since it was a PM.

 

[JusMX141]

I have a question and would like a little more direction. Currently I have a MHI big 16G with a tore up exhaust turbine. My plans before I found this were to get a 20G billet compressor wheel. I am looking for 400awhp or at least really close. At this point should I just go get a 20G or some 50 trim? Or would repairing mine still be the better route? Mine has minimal shaft play.

50-trims have poor reliability and require expensive parts like aftermarket oil lines and even a different manifold / wastegate if you're not lucky enough to find one that bolts to a DSM manifold.

Go for the 20G and never look back.

I won a new holset H1E on eBay for 109$. Didn't expect to win but it made it to my door. I also have a WH1C. I'm wondering which one I should run or make a hybrid.
Have a 2.3 stroker with BC 280s fic 2150s 2 walbro 255. Twin scroll Manifold.


The wh1c:
compressor 80.5mm 55.88mm.
Turbine 69.2mm 59.9mm

The H1E:
Compressor 81.9 mm 50.038 mm
Turbine 76.07 mm 64mm
Thanks!

Use the H1C- much better balance on wheel specs. For some reason your H1E has one of the smallest H1C compressors available.

Another possibility is to get a new 60mm/83mm H1E compressor wheel and have the H1E's cover machined.

I recently purchased a SS oil feed line from the OFH for my T25 (I know...) from Extreme PSI. The 90* fitting they sent is 3/8" on the side that attaches to the OFH. Will this flow too much oil? And another question if you will, any idea what I can use to block off the stock feed port on the OFH? Thanks!

The portion which threads into the filter housing is always 3/8" NPT....it's fine. Keep in mind the factory oil fitting for the T25 contains a .070" restrictor, so you're probably going to over-oil the turbo unless you use an inline restrictor of the same size.

Not sure what you mean about blocking off the stock feed port...you're supposed to remove that fitting and thread the Extreme PSI fitting in it's place.

Eclipse Tallon Evo 2g TDO5H 16g TURBO

What do you think of this? it looks pretty beat up and dirty.
Is it the real deal, and how much would it cost to rebuild this if I had to?

It's an Evo II turbo. Looks fine to me, but the price is a little on the high side if it needs rebuilt. It's also missing the wastegate actuator.

I can't discuss pricing in the forums as I'm not a vendor.

Someone from here offered me a rebuild for $165, is that a good price? I won't name, names since it was a PM.

Too much- and I guarantee for that price you wouldn't get the same service you'd get from me, but hey....it's a free world and people can charge whatever they want. I'm busy enough as it is....perhaps it's time to raise prices if those beneath me are charging more.

 

[camfast]

I have a question geared towards turbo selection for my auto. Its confusing with all these housing and turbines but it seems that the twin scroll setup is the best for an auto however its out of my price range at the moment. What about the HY35? I would like to be able to spool from the line within 5-8 seconds. Would this turbo spool similar as the bep .55 hx35 but flow way more?

 

[JusMX141]

Spool would be similar, but from others' results I'd feel the .55 HX35 would spool faster. My experience with the HY35 has it spooling just a tiny bit slower than a TD06H 20G.

 

[DSM_prospecT]

It's an Evo II turbo. Looks fine to me, but the price is a little on the high side if it needs rebuilt. It's also missing the wastegate actuator.

I can't discuss pricing in the forums as I'm not a vendor.


Too much- and I guarantee for that price you wouldn't get the same service you'd get from me, but hey....it's a free world and people can charge whatever they want. I'm busy enough as it is....perhaps it's time to raise prices if those beneath me are charging more.

Thanks for the reply man!

 

[@TDC]

Does it matter what size AN fittings and steel braided line you run for oil supply on a TD05H? I know that it has its own restriction system correct? What would be the ideal size line and fittings with the oil supply coming from the head?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Does it matter what size AN fittings and steel braided line you run for oil supply on a TD05H? I know that it has its own restriction system correct? What would be the ideal size line and fittings with the oil supply coming from the head?

You dont need a AN fiting for the feed line..I have an xpsi an oin drain and I think it's overkill..

Just grab a braided feed line..Unless Justin has another idea..

 

[JusMX141]

Does it matter what size AN fittings and steel braided line you run for oil supply on a TD05H?

4AN (1/4") is considered standard.

I know that it has its own restriction system correct?

Incorrect. The factory line contains a restrictor on all 13G, 14B, and T25's found on DSM's.

What would be the ideal size line and fittings with the oil supply coming from the head?

4AN is fine, restrictor or not. The factory head pressure is unlikely to exceed 35psi which is within the recommended spec for the MHI center housing.

 

[boostin90gs]

I was thinking about doing a billet kts 55mm in a j pipe housing with a td06h4. My question is do you feel there will be a compressor surge problem with that big of wheel in j pipe housing? and how much flow will i lose in a smaller housing vs 3 inch or will it even be noticeable..

thanks

 

[JusMX141]

To do this you'd have to press a larger pipe in the inlet as the O.D. of the compressor cover inlet is smaller than your compressor inducer. Costly, and completely useless unless you're going for some stock-appearing turbo class...may as well use the TD06 cover with the 3" inlet and ditch the j-pipe.

 

[Miasma]

Hey Justin I'm looking into a couple new turbo options with Holsets' and wondering where the best places to look for a hx40 and hx52 will be? Preferably a 6 or 7 blade depending which I buy, and would like to keep on a T3 flange.

 

[JusMX141]

New Holsets are only available from Cummins Turbo Tech dealers or some performance diesel shops and large-scale turbo shops who are authorized Cummins / Holset dealers.